Name: "美女と野獣」ベルのドレスを服飾史の専門家がファッションチェック！| Vogue japan (「美女と野獣」ベルのドレスを服飾史の専門家がファッションチェック！| VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2021-07-30T20:30:26.000Z
Duration: 6 min 57 s

this is Belle, you know her from Beauty and the Beast, you know this dress and this one.

這是貝兒，你知道她來自《美女與野獸》，你知道這件衣服和這件。

你好，我的名字是阿普里爾-卡拉漢。

I'm a fashion historian at the Fashion Institute of Technology and she's going to walk us through what Disney got right and what they got wrong about these dresses.

我是時裝學院的時尚歷史學家，她將帶領我們瞭解迪士尼在這些衣服上的正確和錯誤之處。

首先，讓我們建立一個時間段。

We know this because the aristocracy still exists.

我們知道這一點是因為貴族階層仍然存在。

As we all know from the movie, A young prince lived in a shining castle.

我們都從電影中知道，一個年輕的王子住在一個閃亮的城堡裡。

We know that this bright, intense yellow color is probably not possible in 18th century France before the invention of synthetic or aniline dyes.

我們知道，在18世紀的法國，在發明合成染料或苯胺染料之前，這種明亮、強烈的黃色可能是不可能的。

In 18 56 all colors were sourced from natural dye stuffs including plants, minerals and animals.

在1856年，所有的顏色都來自於天然染料，包括植物、礦物和動物。

Yellow colors tended to be pale buttercup or even a deep dark mustard with a brown undertone.

黃色往往是淡淡的毛茛色，甚至是帶有棕色底色的深芥末色。

Our second clue that Belle's dress might not be 18th century is the shape or silhouette in the 18th century.

我們的第二個線索是，貝勒的衣服可能不是18世紀的，是18世紀的形狀或剪影。

The volume, as you can see in this fashion plate of Miranda when it came directly out from the hips, whereas bells skirt as well bell shaped.

體積，正如你在米蘭達的這塊時尚板上看到的那樣，當它直接從臀部出來時，而鈴鐺裙也是鐘形的。

Let's draw bells, yellow dress from the undergarments.

讓我們抽出鈴鐺，從內衣中抽出黃色的衣服。

During the 18th century, the very first layer of undergarment that both men and women weren't were known as the shimmies, which was either made of cotton or linen for more than 400 years.

在18世紀，男女都沒有的第一層內衣被稱為shimmies，它是由棉或亞麻製成的，已有400多年的歷史。

Women's undergarments consisted of the shimmies over which was worn the corset, that's the next layer.

婦女的內衣由短褲組成，在短褲上穿的是緊身胸衣，這是下一層。

In the 18th century, courses kind of created a conical shape and the things in a very narrow waist and raising and lifting the bosom.

在18世紀，課程創造了一個圓錐形的形狀，以及在一個非常狹窄的腰部和提高和提升的胸部的東西。

The course in the shimmies is just the very beginning.

We have more foundation garments that go on to create the silhouette.

我們有更多的基礎服裝，繼續創造輪廓。

That's the third layer to create the volume of the skirt.

這是第三層，用來創造裙子的體積。

Women were actually wearing basket light constructions strapped around their waist.

婦女們實際上是穿著綁在腰間的籃子式輕型結構。

Pennies were often made of either wood cane or even wire, so as an aristocrat, your panties would be wider the higher rank you are.

便士通常是由木製藤條甚至鐵絲製成的，所以作為一個貴族，你的內褲會越加寬大，級別越高。

Some of these skirts were so wide that they had to enter and exit the room sideways.

其中一些裙子非常寬大，以至於她們不得不從側面進出房間。

Belle's dress silhouette is actually far more 19th century than it is 18th century.

貝勒的衣服輪廓實際上是19世紀的，而不是18世紀的。

Here we see a fashion plate from the 18 fifties.

在這裡，我們看到了18世紀50年代的一個時尚盤。

This is remarkably similar to the style of dress that Bell is wearing.

這與貝爾所穿的衣服的風格非常相似。

The fourth layer would be the petticoats.

Over the pina layers and layers of petticoats would be warm.

在皮納之上層層疊疊的襯裙會很溫暖。

And then the gown which was in multiple pieces.

Your gown wasn't exactly like we think of address today because it didn't close in the front, it was more of like a long jacket, the second part of the gown.

你的禮服並不完全像我們今天認為的地址，因為它沒有在前面合攏，它更像是一件長外套，禮服的第二部分。

And in order to fasten your gown over your course that you would be wearing what's called a stomach er and a stomach er is a stiffened triangular piece of textile that your gown would then be pinned or sewn to to keep the front of your dress closed.

為了將你的禮服固定在你的課程上，你會穿上所謂的胃厄，胃厄是一塊堅硬的三角形織物，然後你的禮服會被釘在或縫在上面，以保持你的禮服的前面封閉。

Women were literally sewn into their address each and every day.

婦女簡直是每天都被縫在他們的地址裡。

Let's face it, 18th century fashion was not comfortable.

讓我們面對現實吧，18世紀的時尚並不舒適。

Finally, we have to look at Bell's hair, which for this time period is missing a huge component.

最後，我們必須看一下貝爾的頭髮，對於這個時期來說，它缺少一個巨大的組成部分。

These extremely trendy fashionable hairstyles which were created partially by a wig which might have an under structure of wood or wire and then the where its own hair would be arranged around this, the height of some of these poufs could be one or two or three ft even like we said, huge.

這些極其時髦的時尚髮型，部分是由假髮創造的，假髮可能有一個木頭或鐵絲的下層結構，然後自己的頭髮會圍繞這個結構排列，其中一些蒲扇的高度可能是一或兩或三英尺，甚至像我們說的那樣，巨大的。

So here's what Bell would have looked like compared to the original Disney look.

是以，這裡是貝爾與迪斯尼原貌相比的樣子。

Wait, one more thing, you will also note in 18th century fashion gloves were not so much of an important accessory fans, much more so.

等等，還有一件事，你還會注意到在18世紀的時尚界，手套並不是那麼重要的配飾粉絲，更多的是。

Certain movements with your fan could be considered flirtatious and you can even answer yes or no by placing the fan on one cheek versus another.

你的扇子的某些動作可以被認為是調情的，你甚至可以通過把扇子放在一個臉頰和另一個臉頰上來回答是或不是。

So finally, this is what Princess belle would have looked like.

所以最後，這就是貝勒公主本來的樣子。

Now, let's look at Bell before all of the dancing and singing with inanimate objects.

現在，讓我們看看貝爾在所有與無生命物體跳舞和唱歌之前的情況。

Bell lived in a provincial town, must be more than was her blue dress appropriate for an 18th century commoner.

貝爾住在一個省級城市，一定比她的藍色衣服適合18世紀的平民。

The two main things that are wrong with bells look in town is that she's not wearing stockings and she's not wearing a hat, so this is not accurate either.

鈴鐺在城裡的造型有兩個主要問題，一是她沒有穿絲襪，二是她沒有戴帽子，所以這也不準確。

Now, we're going to draw every layer of this dress.

現在，我們要畫出這件衣服的每一層。

Her underwear would have also been a Siamese.

The next layer would have been stockings.

In the 18th century, all women wore knit stockings.

在18世紀，所有婦女都穿著針織長襪。

These were essentially like fi high tights, but because elastic had not been invented yet, you had to secure the stocking to your leg by tying a ribbon just above the knee and then the corset.

這基本上就像高筒襪，但由於當時還沒有發明鬆緊帶，你必須在膝蓋上方繫上一條絲帶，然後再繫上胸衣，才能將長襪固定在腿上。

Even working class women during the 18th century would have been wearing a corset and this was considered proper and modest.

即使是18世紀的工人階級婦女也會穿上緊身胸衣，這被認為是適當和謙虛的。

In this particular image, we see a male corset maker fitting a corset to this woman.

在這張特殊的圖片中，我們看到一個男性胸衣製作者正在為這個女人穿上胸衣。

It was actually legally mandated that only men were allowed to make corsets and this was all part of the 18th century guild system.

實際上，法律規定只有男性可以製作胸衣，這都是18世紀行會制度的一部分。

Next, the silhouette garment, the silhouette of her skirt is not supported by the paninis that we spoke about earlier.

接下來，剪影服裝，她的裙子的剪影沒有得到我們前面談到的帕尼尼的支持。

Instead, there's just certain softness to it.

This would have probably been what's called a bum roll, which were patted tubes that were worn tied about the waist.

這可能是所謂的 "屁股卷"，是綁在腰上的拍打管。

On top of this bum role would have been multiple petticoats and then the next layer, a caracal being a short jacket that tended to have a little flouts in the back and this would be paired with a skirt over the garments was the apron.

在這個屁股的作用之上，會有多條襯裙，然後是下一層，卡拉卡是一件短外套，往往在後面有一點翻邊，這將與裙子搭配在一起的衣服是圍裙。

One of the things that the animators absolutely got right was the fact that she's wearing a white apron during the 18th century clothing and textiles were tremendously expensive, so to protect and care for your clothing.

動畫師絕對正確的一件事是，她穿著白色圍裙，在18世紀，服裝和紡織品是非常昂貴的，所以要保護和護理你的衣服。

Working class women tended to wear aprons over their textiles and she would have worn a hat.

工人階級的婦女往往在她們的紡織品上穿圍裙，她會戴上一頂帽子。

All women wore bonnets, caps or hair ornaments to display her hair in public was a signal of sexual availability.

所有的婦女都戴著帽簷、帽子或髮飾，在公共場合展示她的頭髮是一種性的信號。

Finally, the last piece, this little kerchief around her shoulders is called a tissue because the course it's forced the breast up and out every once in a while, there was an occasional nip slip and the tissue prevented that and provided a little bit more modesty.

最後，最後一塊，她肩膀上的這條小手帕被稱為紙巾，因為它每隔一段時間就會把乳房逼出來，偶爾會有漏網之魚，而紙巾可以防止這種情況，並提供更多一點的謙虛。

So here's what townsfolk Bell would have looked like compared to the Disney version.

是以，與迪斯尼版本相比，城鎮居民貝爾會是什麼樣子。

 The Disney animators have taken design and aesthetic references spanning several different decades to basically create a romanticized, fictionalized historic past and this mix of film indeed, a tale as old as time and that's what Bell would have worn if she lived in history. 

迪斯尼的動畫師們採取了跨越幾個不同年代的設計和審美參考，基本上創造了一個浪漫的、虛構的歷史過去，這種混合電影確實是一個像時間一樣古老的故事，這就是貝爾如果生活在歷史中會穿的衣服。