and today we're going to see how jellied eels are made.

而今天我們就來看看果凍鰻魚是如何製作的。

If you think that fish and chips

如果你覺得魚和薯條

is the most traditional fish dish

是最傳統的魚菜

that you can get here in London, think again.

你可以在倫敦這裡得到，再想想。

Jellied eels and London have a history

鰻魚膠和倫敦有歷史淵源

that is hundreds of years old,

那是幾百年前的事了。

going back to the times where the eel population

溯源

was thriving in the River Thames.

在泰晤士河中正蓬勃發展。

Nowadays, there are not as many eels as there were

現在的黃鱔沒有以前那麼多了

in the past, but the dish has stood the test of time.

在過去，但這道菜經得起時間的考驗。

Let's go see how it's made.

我們去看看它是怎麼做的。

In their glory days, jellied eels were so popular

鰻魚的輝煌時期，是那麼的受歡迎。

that in the East End of London,

這在倫敦東區。

competition among vendors was tough.

廠商之間的競爭很激烈。

Today, jellied eels can be found all over the UK,

如今，在英國各地都能看到膠質鰻魚的身影。

at summer kiosks and racecourses,

在夏季福利社和賽馬場。

but there are only a handful of merchants

但只有少數幾個商家

who actually make them, all based in London.

誰真正使他們，所有總部設在倫敦。

One of these is Barneys, an East End institution

其中之一是Barneys，一個東區的機構。

run by Mark Button, by his father, Eddie, before him,

由馬克-巴頓和他的父親埃迪經營，在他之前。

and now Mark's son has even gotten involved.

現在馬克的兒子甚至也參與進來了。

Despite the challenges,

儘管面臨挑戰，但。

Mark believes that jellied eels are far from being

馬克認為，果凍鰻魚遠沒有到

on the verge of disappearing.

瀕臨消失。

Mark Button: The eel has become harder to get.

馬克-巴頓。鰻魚越來越難弄了。

We used to have eels every day.

我們以前每天都有鰻魚吃。

From Whitstable and Southend-on-Sea,

從Whitstable和Southend-on-Sea。

they used to come up to London.

他們曾經來倫敦。

Literally, 1,000 kilos a day would come into London

從字面上看，每天會有1000公斤進入倫敦。

of fresh Thames eels, Thames Estuary eels.

鮮泰晤士河鰻魚、泰晤士河口鰻魚的。

But they're no longer there. They disappeared.

但他們已經不在那裡了。他們消失了。

The price of eels today are dearer than salmon.

如今鰻魚的價格比三文魚還貴。

When my father took over the business in the 1960s,

當我父親在60年代接管了這個生意。

the man that sold him the business said,

賣給他生意的人說。

"I don't think there's much left of it.

"我想已經沒有多少了。

See what you can do."

看看你能做什麼。"

And that was in 1965,

而那是在1965年。

which I know is 55 years ago 'cause that's when I was born.

我知道那是55年前的事了，因為那是我出生的時候。

55 years later, we're still going on.

55年後，我們還在繼續。

We're now at the third generation in the business.

我們現在已經是第三代的企業了。

Claudia: The first step to making jellied eels

克勞迪婭：製作鰻魚凍的第一步。

is to clean the fish, take the guts out,

就是把魚洗乾淨，把內臟拿出來。

and cut the eels into portions.

並將鰻魚切成份。

Mark: These are the eels.

馬克：這些是鰻魚。

I mean, they start off as live eels last night,

我的意思是，他們開始作為活鰻魚昨晚。

but we have them stunned so they are ready to work.

但我們已經把他們打暈了，所以他們已經準備好工作了。

Otherwise, if they were to move,

否則，如果他們要動。

the boys couldn't work on them.

男孩們不能在他們身上工作。

It would be too dangerous. Claudia: Oh, I see.

這將是太危險了。克勞迪婭：哦，我明白了。

Mark: They use very sharp knives.

馬克：他們用的是非常鋒利的刀子。

They're fantastic to work on.

他們是夢幻般的工作。

Otherwise, you'd never handle them.

否則，你永遠不會處理他們。

If it's a live eel, if you picked them up,

如果是活鰻魚，如果你撿到。

you'd be chasing them around the room.

你會在房間裡追逐他們。

Claudia: Is it easier to clean than a normal fish?

克勞迪婭：它比普通的魚更容易清洗嗎？

Mark: Well, these guys have been doing it for many years,

馬克：嗯，這些人已經做了很多年了。

so they find it easy.

所以他們覺得很容易。

But even if you put a man who worked with normal fish,

但即使把一個和普通魚一起工作的人。

flat fish, on this job, they would find it very hard.

平魚，在這個工作上，他們會覺得很辛苦。

It's a different shape fish, it's a different bone,

形狀不同的魚，骨子裡是不一樣的。

it's the different pressures you put on the...

這是不同的壓力，你把在... ...

you'll see Simon, at the end there,

你會看到西蒙，在那裡結束。

he uses a lot of strength in his arms and wrists.

他的手臂和手腕用了很多力氣。

[Simon and Claudia laughing]

[西蒙和克勞迪婭笑]

To push it through. Claudia: Oh, right, yeah.

為了推動它通過。克勞迪婭：哦，對，是的。

So, they have different knives, actually.

所以，他們的刀子，其實是不一樣的。

Mark: Yeah, this is a filleting knife,

馬克：是的，這是一把銼刀。

and the guys here are cutting using cutting knives.

而這裡的人都在用刀具切割。

Claudia: Oh, I see here.

克勞迪婭：哦，我看到這裡了。

Mark: Every cut, there's hundreds

馬克：每一刀，都有上百個

and hundreds of cuts per day.

和每天數百次的切割。

Claudia: So they have to be sharp.

克勞迪婭：所以他們必須要有鋒芒。

Mark: So they have to be very sharp.

馬克：所以他們必須非常敏銳。

And they have to concentrate,

而且他們必須集中精力。

because you don't want to lose a digit.

因為你不想失去一個數字。

Claudia: Yeah, yeah, yeah, definitely. [laughs]

克勞迪婭：是啊，是啊，是啊，肯定。是啊，是啊，是啊，肯定的。 [笑]

Yeah, the finger is very close.

是的，手指非常接近。

I've read that the eels only have one bone.

我讀到鰻魚只有一根骨頭。

Mark: With the jelly process, we leave the bone in,

馬克：對於果凍工藝，我們把骨頭留在裡面。

and the customer eats around the bone.

和顧客吃的骨頭周圍。

Claudia: OK. So, the part that you eat,

克勞迪婭：好的，所以，你吃的那部分。

is it just the beginning?

這僅僅是個開始嗎？

Or you also eat the tail?

還是你也吃尾巴？

Mark: The flatter part is no good.

記：平坦的部分不好。

So the pieces would start here,

所以，碎片會從這裡開始。

so from behind the gill

鰓後

going back right the way through.

回去的路上，正確的方式通過。

So when you gut these,

所以，當你把這些。

these pieces when they're cooked will be open,

這些片子煮熟後就會打開。

and these pieces when they're cooked will be round.

而這些片子煮熟後會是圓形的。

Which you'll see.

你會看到的

I'll show you the difference. Claudia: Oh, all right.

我會告訴你其中的區別。克勞迪婭：哦，好的。

So you know where they come from?

所以你知道他們從哪裡來？

Mark: Some people, they call these the horseshoe pieces.

馬克：有些人，他們把這些叫做馬蹄鐵片。

So it looks like a horseshoe, which is open.

所以它看起來像一個馬蹄鐵，這是開放的。

That's where they fully remove that belly.

這就是他們完全去除那個肚子的地方。

Claudia: And you leave the skin as well.

克勞迪婭：而且你還會留下皮膚。

Mark: Leave the skin on.

馬克：把皮留在身上。

Claudia: And where do they come from?

克勞迪婭：那它們從哪裡來？

They don't come from the Thames, right?

他們不是從泰晤士河來的吧？

Mark: No, we haven't had any English eels

馬克：沒有，我們沒有吃過英國鰻魚。

for many years now.

多年來，。

We get eels from Holland,

我們從荷蘭買鰻魚

and also we get wild eels

而且我們還得到了野生鰻魚

from Northern Ireland, from Lough Neagh.

來自北愛爾蘭，來自尼格湖。

With this time of year,

隨著這個時候。

because they've taken on a winter coat,

因為他們已經穿上了冬衣。

they've been feeding well

吃得好

and they're storing body fat,

他們正在儲存身體的脂肪。

so they're very good high fat content,

所以他們是非常好的高脂肪含量。

which gives the eel a chance to migrate

這讓鰻魚有機會洄游。

on a 6,000-, 7,000-mile journey,

在6000、7000英里的旅程中。

and they'll lose weight as they're swimming.

而且他們在游泳的時候會減輕體重。

But when they're a summer eel

但當他們是一條夏天的鰻魚

and they've been eating a lot of food

而且他們吃了很多的食物

but they're not absorbing it,

但他們沒有吸收它。

the meat will be thinner, but it will eat softer

瘦死的駱駝比馬大，吃軟的駱駝比馬大。

because they're not storing it.

因為他們沒有存儲它。

So they're not storing the fuel.

所以他們不是在儲存燃料。

Claudia: So this one will have more body?

克勞迪婭：所以這個會有更多的身體？

Like, it will be more meaty.

喜歡，會更肉麻。

Mark: More meaty, yeah.

馬克：比較肉麻，對。

At the moment, we're processing about

目前，我們正在處理大約

300 kilos a day.

每天300公斤。

Claudia: Once all the eels have been cut in portions,

克勞迪婭：一旦所有的鰻魚都被切成了幾份。

we move to this other room,

我們搬到另一個房間。

where they will be boiled in herb-infused water.

在那裡，他們將被煮在香草水裡。

Mark: So, we flavor the water with a bouquet garni,

馬克：所以，我們用花束加尼來調味。

which is mainly parsley and pimentos.

其中主要是香菜和肉豆蔻。

Which has got the --

哪些有...

Claudia: Yeah, I can smell it.

是的，我可以聞到它。

Mark: You smell the aroma?

記：你聞到香味了嗎？

[Claudia laughs]

[克勞迪婭笑]

Claudia: And so the bag is never opened?

克勞迪婭：所以包包從來沒有打開過？

It stays closed in there just to flavor the water?

它一直封閉在那裡只是為了給水調味？

Mark: Just to flavor the water,

馬克：只是為了給水調味。

then we remove that and the water's flavored,

然後我們將其去除，水的味道。

and we add the eels to it.

然後我們再把鰻魚加進去。

Depending on the nature of the eel,

根據鰻魚的性質。

this time of year, they take a bit longer to cook.

這個時候，他們需要更長的時間來烹飪。

About 45, 50 minutes.

大約45，50分鐘。

Claudia: Oh, that's a long time.

克勞迪婭：哦，那是很長的時間。

Mark: Yeah, in the summer months,

馬克：是的，在夏季的時候。

it could be 30 minutes 'cause the eel is softer,

它可能是30分鐘，因為鰻魚是軟的。

'cause it's a summer eel.

因為它是一條夏季鰻魚。

I explained about the winter coat.

我解釋了一下冬衣的事情。

They take a bit longer to cook

煮的時間比較長

to compensate, to make the flesh softer.

來彌補，使肉體更柔軟。

So, we're slowly seeing the eels cook.

所以，我們慢慢看到鰻魚熟了。

The sediment is on the eel, and that will be taken off.

沉澱物在鰻魚上，那就會被取下來。

And the fat is coming to the top as well.

胖子也要上位了。

Like anything else, you're skimming the fat off

就像其他事情一樣，你要把肥肉剝掉。

and leave the juice clear for being decanted into the bowls.

並留有清汁，以便潷入碗中。

Claudia: It smells already, like, herby.

克勞迪婭：聞起來已經很香了，就像，香草味。

Mark: You can smell the parsley in the air.

馬克：你可以聞到空氣中的香芹味。

It's because we now have got four pots on, the aroma here,

因為我們現在已經上了四口鍋，這裡的香氣。

I mean, we haven't got smelly vision yet,

我的意思是，我們還沒有得到臭的視覺。

but the aroma is quite pleasant.

但香氣卻相當怡人。

Claudia: Yeah, yeah.

克勞迪婭：是啊，是啊。

Yeah, it doesn't smell like,

是的，它聞起來並不像。

I don't know, when you're doing a fish soup.

我不知道，當你在做魚湯的時候。

No, not at all.

不，一點也不。

It smells very fresh, like the parsley, as you said.

聞起來很新鮮，就像你說的香菜一樣。

Mark: That's right, you can smell the herbs.

馬克：沒錯，你可以聞到藥材的味道。

Claudia: Yeah, yeah.

克勞迪婭：是啊，是啊。

And will you add any more ingredients, or that is that?

那你還會不會再加什麼配料，或者就是這樣？

Mark: No, the only thing that Simon will add to this

馬克：不，西蒙唯一要補充的是，這個

is salt.

是鹽。

Claudia: Salt?

跳？

Mark: Yeah. A bit nearer the end process

馬克：是的。稍微接近尾聲的過程

rather than in the beginning.

而不是在開始的時候。

Claudia: Wait, so how about the jelly?

克勞迪婭：等等，那果凍呢？

So you don't add any gelatine?

所以你不加任何明膠？

Mark: Yeah, we use a gelatine granule.

馬克：是的，我們用的是明膠顆粒。

Because of the commercial volume,

因為商業體量。

and setting them, and traveling, and shelf life,

和設置他們，和旅行，和保質期。

we have to use a granulated gelatine.

我們必須使用顆粒狀的明膠。

Claudia: OK. 'Cause I read that

好吧，因為我讀到了。

the fish itself releases some --

魚本身釋放一些 -

Mark: If you were to cook one eel on its own,

記：如果你要單獨煮一條鱔魚。

put it in the fridge overnight

放在冰箱裡過夜

in the water you cooked it in, it would jellify.

在你煮它的水裡，它就會被凍住。

But not to the point of sending it to Leigh-on-Sea,

但不至於把它送到海面上的利。

or Clacton, or Scotland,

或克萊克頓，或蘇格蘭。

or Edinburgh. Claudia: Yeah, of course.

或愛丁堡。Claudia：是的，當然。

Mark: We've got to have a shelf life now.

馬克：我們現在得有個保質期。

So the gelatine powder suspends it with the salt

所以，明膠粉與鹽一起懸吊著它

and gives it a good shelf life.

並給它一個良好的保質期。

Claudia: Our jellied-eel bowls are ready,

我們的鰻魚膠碗已經準備好了。

and they will now rest for about a day.

而他們現在將休息一天左右。

Overnight, the gelatine will set,

過夜，明膠會凝固。

and the eels will slowly float to the top.

而黃鱔會慢慢浮到上面。

Mark: So, here we have yesterday's production,

馬克：那麼，我們這裡有昨天的製作。

which are now jellied eels.

即現在的黃鱔膠。

They come in a bowl like this.

它們是裝在這樣的碗裡的。

We're ready for the main label.

我們已經準備好了主標籤。

We've all the data on

我們已經掌握了所有的數據

which we've followed through on production.

我們已經跟進生產。

Claudia: And here they are.

在這裡，他們是。

Mark: It's a sealed lid, 'cause we put them on hot.

這是一個密封的蓋子，因為我們把它們放在熱。

Claudia: Oh!

哦！

Mark: And that is the --

馬克：這就是 --

Claudia: Nice wiggle.

克勞迪婭：晃動得不錯。

Mark: Finished product there.

記：成品有。

Claudia: How many pieces of eels are there?

克勞迪婭：鰻魚有多少塊？

Mark: It's approximately 90 pieces.

記：大約是90件。

Claudia: OK. Mark: Approximately.

克勞迪婭：好的。 馬克：大概吧。

It's done by visual.

是通過視覺來完成的。

Over the years, the person doing it

多年來，做這件事的人

gets a good eye to what's in there.

得到了一個很好的眼睛在那裡的東西。

If the eels are cut slightly bigger,

如果黃鱔切得稍微大一點。

there'll be slightly less pieces.

件會稍微少一些。

These are a good winter eel.

這些都是冬天的好鱔魚。

There should be a good 85 to 90 pieces.

應該有85到90件的好。

Jellied eels.

鰻魚膠質。

So, this is the finished product.

所以，這就是成品。

Claudia: And that's it. Now it's nice and solid.

克勞迪婭：就是這樣。現在它的漂亮和堅實。

Mark: So now you've got the solid gelatine texture.

馬克：所以現在你已經有了固體明膠的質感。

A consumer would take the pieces out,

消費者會把件拿出來。

and now you got the jelly.

現在你得到了果凍。

Claudia: Ooh. So, normally do you eat it like this?

克勞迪婭：哦。那麼，平時你這樣吃嗎？

Mark: Most people would eat it, I mean,

馬克：大多數人都會吃，我是說。

we've just taken this out of the fridge,

我們剛剛把這個從冰箱裡拿出來。

so it's gonna be extremely cold.

所以它會是非常寒冷的。

Claudia: Cool. Mark: But it's better

克勞迪婭：酷。馬克：但它是更好的

when the jelly becomes a little bit

當果凍變得有點

more room temperature, but not too floppy.

比較室溫，但不至於太鬆軟。

But eating-wise, that's the piece of eel.

但從吃的方面來說，就是那塊鰻魚。

Claudia: Wow!

Claudia：哇！

And that's the bone there, huh?

這就是骨頭，嗯？

Mark: That's the bone that's left.

記：那是剩下的骨頭。

You've got the saltiness in the jelly,

你已經得到了果凍中的鹹味。

and you've got the texture of the fish.

而你已經得到了魚的質地。

If you wanted to try it,

如果你想試試。

there's a clean spoon there. Claudia: Yes.

有一個乾淨的勺子在那裡。克勞迪婭：是的。

Mark: It does get a bit messy with the gelatine.

馬克：用明膠確實有點亂。

I'll leave you with that.

我就不打擾你了

Claudia: All right.

Claudia：好吧。

Which one should I have?

我應該買哪一個？

Should I have the one

我應該有一個

that's open? Mark: They're all good.

那是開放的？馬克：他們都很好。

Claudia: Or the one from the back?

克勞迪婭：還是後面那個？