But there is so much more to Sichuan than just red hot chili peppers.

但是，四川的辣椒不僅僅是紅紅火火的辣椒，還有很多。

There's also food that sweet, savory, pungent and no mommy and you can find them or fly restaurants.

還有一些食物，甜的，鹹的，辛的，沒有媽媽，你可以找到他們或飛餐廳。

Sichuan Zone version off hole in the Wall eateries.

四川區版關窬食店。

Thanks.

謝謝你

Then I okay, does he?

那我還好，他呢？

Yeah, we're in Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province in southwestern China.

是的，我們在成都，中國西南部四川省的省會。

On these bustling streets, fly restaurants like these are where locals go for a quick bite.

在這些繁華的街道上，像這樣的蒼蠅館子是當地人吃快餐的地方。

My name is Jenny Gal, and I've been exploring Sichuan food as a writer and cook for about 10 years.

我叫Jenny Gal，作為一名作家和廚師，我對川菜的探索已經有10年了。

I was born in Chengdu, grew up moving around quite a bit.

我出生在成都，從小到大搬了不少地方。

Fly restaurants are an iconic fixture of condos.

飛翔餐廳是公寓的標誌性固定設施。

Food scene.

美食現場。

I feel like it's really at the heart and soul of the food culture because it is all about home cooked food with big flavors, and the term is given by locals to places that are usually hold the walls, um, usually hidden hard to find.

我覺得這真的是飲食文化的核心和靈魂，因為都是家常菜，味道大，而這個詞是當地人給的，一般都是扶著牆的地方，嗯，一般都是藏著難找。

With zero atmosphere and questionable hygiene, Jenny talked us on the foot crawl off her favorite fly restaurants first stop Chongming Lien Fun where they have a unique way of serving food.

氛圍為零，衛生狀況也有問題，Jenny和我們聊了聊她最喜歡的蒼蠅館子第一站崇明連趣的腳步爬行，他們有獨特的食物服務方式。

So coming, Nelson.

來了，納爾遜

This restaurant has been here for several decades now.

這家餐廳在這裡已經有幾十年的歷史了。

Um, it's become legendary in the area.

嗯，這在當地已經成為傳說。

The food is wheeled out on sort of like a wheelbarrow on.

食物是用輪子推出來的，有點像手推車上的。

It's sort of a free for all.

這算是免費的。

Once the food comes out, people just grab what they want from the cart.

菜品出來後，人們只需從推車上抓取自己想要的東西。

I think this is like the most famous dish here.

我想這好像是這裡最有名的菜。

It's the super simple, but I think one side is like money being one side is yellow split pea, and it's got like a sauce of dough.

就是超簡單的，但我覺得一面是像錢被一面是黃裂豌豆，它有像醬的麵糰。

Panjang Chili Oil Sugar MSG on Ben.

盤錦辣椒油糖味精上本。

This is one of my favorite dishes here.

這是我最喜歡的一道菜。

It is really unique.

它真的很獨特。

Um, it's called financial by.

嗯，這叫金融由。

It's basically stewed slices of pork belly that are filled with a red bean paste in between and then steamed with glutinous rice with sugar on top.

基本上是將豬肚片燉熟，中間填上紅豆沙，然後用糯米加糖蒸熟。

This is a salad made with the organ, which is a herb that's grown in the mountains of Sichuan is quite unique.

這是用風琴做的沙拉，風琴是一種生長在四川山區的草本植物，很有特色。

Thio this climate, especially with chili sauce and made into a salad.

Thio這種氣候，特別是用辣椒醬，做成沙拉。

It could be really refreshing on a hot day.

在炎熱的日子裡，它可能真的很清爽。

Next we went for noodles at one of Sichuan oldest fly restaurants.

接下來我們去了四川最老的一家蒼蠅館子吃麵。

Yeah, this restaurant is e think it's over 100 years old.

是啊，這家餐廳應該有100多年的歷史了。

They're famous for a few different things, and I think there are best items a sweet water noodle, but it's not really it's not really sweet on it's.

他們是著名的幾個不同的東西，我認為有最好的項目一個甜水麵，但它不是真的它不是真的甜上它。

Also, there's like no water.

還有，這裡好像沒有水。

It is a dry noodle, but it, um, it has a sweeter and spicy profile.

雖說是乾麵，但它，嗯，它的特點是比較甜，比較辣。

The Sweetwater noodles, usually a sesame paste of garlic slurry, a sweetened soy sauce on chili oil on.

甜水麵，一般是麻醬蒜泥，甜醬油上辣椒油上。

Then also a little bit of a mystery, a sprinkling of so trump on top.

然後還有點神祕感，在上面灑上那麼一丟丟的王牌。

E think like after years of training, they just, like, know exactly with a flick of the wrist.

E認為像經過多年的訓練，他們只是，喜歡，確切地知道與手腕上的彈指一揮。

How much to put on What makes these noodles unique is that it's actually start cold on.

放多少錢這些麵條的獨特之處在於，它其實是開始冷上的。

It is really chewing al dente, which is quite different from most other noodles in China.

真的是嚼起來很有彈性，這和國內其他大多數麵條有很大不同。

Yes, so we're at a restaurant called Mianyang Guangyuan, and this is a fly restaurant that was founded, Um, think about 2030 years ago.

是的，所以我們在一家叫綿陽廣源的餐廳，這是一家蒼蠅餐廳，成立於，嗯，應該是2030年前。

It's famous, actually, for a noodle and their wontons, So these are fish, fragrant pork and pickled string bean noodles.

其實這裡很有名，就是因為一種麵條和他們的餛飩，所以這些都是魚、香肉和醃製的串豆麵。

In case you're wondering fish fragrance as a mix of ingredients meant to imitate the flavor of fish.

如果你想知道魚香作為一種混合的成分，旨在模仿魚的味道。

It doesn't actually have any fish in it.

其實裡面並沒有什麼魚。

Things one is the coma wanton soup, and it's served with a red chili oil sauce.

事情一是昏迷的想湯，它是用紅辣椒油醬來吃的。

Coma is a type of mushroom that's grown in the Mongolian highland that is used a lot in Sichuan cooking to add like a really deep, earthy umami.

科瑪是一種生長在蒙古高原的蘑菇，在四川的烹飪中經常使用，可以增加像一種很深的泥土味。

And our foot crawl would not be complete without trying seats ones Most famous dish mapo tofu.

而我們的腳爬不會完整，不嘗試座位的最有名的菜mapo豆腐。

So this place we're at it's called Chung Mapo Tofu, where they allegedly invented Mapo tofu.

所以我們所在的這個地方叫中馬坡豆腐，據說是他們發明了馬坡豆腐。

So apparently it was old lady by the name last name of Cheng, who was pockmarked like on her face.

所以很明顯是姓程的老太太，她臉上的痘痘一樣。

But I was known for making this really fiery tofu.

但我做的這個豆腐真的很火爆，是有名的。

It is cubes of silken tofu cooked in a sauce of prevented fava bean paste.

它是用防止蠶豆醬的醬汁煮成的絲狀豆腐塊。

Soy sauce.

醬油

Chili oil lost most of Sichuan pepper, usually with a sprinkling of like ground beef or pork on top.

辣椒油失去了大部分的川椒，通常在上面撒上像牛肉粉或豬肉。

It's most perfectly served over a bed of white rice.

在白米飯上吃是最完美的。

Yeah, it's a meal in itself.

是啊，這本身就是一頓飯。

After a day of eating, all this delicious food way were itching for dessert, so we went for being fun.

吃了一天的飯，這些美味的食物方式都很癢的甜點，所以我們去被樂趣。

Ah, cold jelly topped with syrup.

啊，冰凍加糖漿。

It's the perfect way to cool down after eating so many spicy dishes.

吃了這麼多辣菜，最適合降溫了。

Being fun is a really famous summertime snack in Chengdu, and it's super cooling.

作為好玩是成都非常有名的夏日小吃，而且超級清涼。

It's actually a jelly that's made from a new herb like a seed that they grind into powder and set with gelatin like substance served, usually with like a brown sugar syrup.

這其實是一種果凍，是由新的草藥像種子，他們磨成粉末和設置與明膠一樣的物質服務，通常與像紅糖漿。

Or, in this case, rose syrup.

或者，在這種情況下，玫瑰糖漿。

You could see the preserve rose petals in there as well.

你也能看到裡面保存的玫瑰花瓣。

The most important part is that the flavor is delicious, and it's so good that it keeps people coming like flies.

最重要的是味道鮮美，好吃到讓人像飛一樣的來。

And so that's sort of a nod to the self deprecating humor of 10 people.

所以這也算是對10人的自嘲幽默的一種點贊。

And also just that flavor trumps everything.

也只是說味道勝過一切。

It doesn't matter what the environment is, as long as the food is delicious.

只要食物好吃，什麼環境都無所謂。

I felt like in the West, people knew Sichuan food as just the stereotypical extremes, like the diabolic heat or the face numbing spice.

我覺得在西方，人們對川菜的認識只是刻板的極端，比如說檄文式的熱，或者是麻面式的辣。

It's easy to characterized these extremes and miss the subtleties that air underneath in modern day can do when things have changed so quickly and people of all socioeconomic backgrounds are still coming to the same fly restaurants and sharing a table on the sidewalk with broken stools and are still able to enjoy a delicious meal together.

當事情發生瞭如此之快的變化，各種社會經濟背景的人仍然來到同一家蒼蠅館子，在人行道上用破凳子共用一張桌子，還能一起享受美味佳餚的時候，我們很容易將這些極端的事情定性，而忽略了現代社會中空氣下的微妙之處。

And that's the spirit of Citron, I think embodied.

而這就是香櫞的精神，我認為體現了。