and we're about to visit Macsween,

我們要去看望麥克斯溫了

a third-generation family-run haggis producer.

是第三代家族經營的羊雜碎生產商。

What we're about to see is traditional haggis,

我們即將看到的是傳統的羊雜碎。

which is encased in animal tripe

裹著動物內臟

and stuffed with meat, spices, salt,

並以肉、香料、鹽為餡。

and a few more ingredients.

還有一些食材。

So let's go and find out which ones.

那我們就去看看是哪些人吧。

I've always been curious about haggis,

我對羊雜碎一直很好奇。

and finally I get the chance to travel to Scotland

我終於有機會去蘇格蘭旅遊了。

to find out how it's made

瞭解它的製作過程

and why it matters so much to Scots.

以及為什麼它對蘇格蘭人如此重要。

Leading me in this journey is James Macsween,

帶領我走這條路的是詹姆斯-麥克斯溫。

who has turned his grandfather's butcher shop in Edinburgh

他把他祖父在愛丁堡的肉店改成了一家肉店

into one of the most successful haggis companies in the UK.

成為英國最成功的羊雜公司之一。

James: Being a boy in a family business,

詹姆斯作為一個男孩在一個家族企業。

I never get tired of eating haggis,

我吃羊雜碎永遠不會膩。

from when I was old enough to understand what my dad did

從我懂事的時候開始，我就明白了我爸爸做的事。

to, you know, 40-plus years later.

到，你知道，40多年後。

I love haggis. I love haggis.

我愛吃羊雜。我愛吃羊雜。

Claudia: There is no steadfast rule

克勞迪婭：沒有堅定不移的規則。

as to what specific animal has to go into haggis.

至於什麼具體的動物要去做羊雜。

At Macsween, the base is lamb lungs and beef fat.

在Macsween，基礎是羊肺和牛肉脂肪。

James: I'm the third-generation

詹姆斯，我是第三代我是第三代

managing director of Macsween's.

Macsween's的總經理。

We're still using that same recipe

我們還在使用同樣的配方

that we started with in 1953.

我們在1953年開始的。

You can have a pork haggis, you can have lamb and beef.

你可以吃豬雜，可以吃羊肉，也可以吃牛肉。

You can have a lamb, beef, and pork.

可以吃羊肉、牛肉、豬肉。

Some people make venison haggis.

有人做鹿肉羊雜。

We've made venison haggis in the past.

我們過去做過鹿肉羊雜。

But as long as this business has been making haggis,

但只要這個企業做了羊雜碎。

we have always made lamb and beef recipe.

我們一直在做羊肉和牛肉的食譜。

Claudia: How many lungs are there in here?

克勞迪婭：這裡面有多少個肺？

James: Oh, hundreds, hundreds.

詹姆斯。哦，數百，數百。

They've all been,

他們都被。

it's a big block of meat that we guillotine.

這是一個大塊的肉，我們斷頭臺。

But, you know, there's hundreds.

但是，你知道，有數百個。

Claudia: OK.

克勞迪婭：好的。

And how many haggis are these going to make?

這些要做多少羊雜碎呢？

James: By the time Connor has lifted

詹姆斯。到時候康納已經解除

everything for this batch,

這一批的一切。

it will make 2,000 puddings,

它可以做2000個布丁。

or 4,000 portions.

或4,000份。

Claudia: Each pudding is meant to serve

克勞迪婭：每個布丁都是為了服務。

two to three people,

兩到三個人。

so that is about two portions per pudding.

所以，這是每一個布丁約兩個部分。

It looks like marble. James: Yeah, it's like...

它看起來像大理石。詹姆斯 - 是的，就像..:是啊，這就像...

Claudia: It looks like Tuscan marble.

克勞迪婭：看起來像托斯卡納大理石。

James: Travertine.

詹姆斯洞石。

Pink travertine.

粉紅色的石灰石。

Claudia: Yeah, yeah, yeah.

克勞迪婭：是啊，是啊，是啊。

James: Some manufacturers mince a lot of their meat raw,

詹姆斯。有些廠家會生吃很多肉。

and then they cook it in the casing.

然後他們把它放在外殼裡煮。

We don't do it like that. Claudia: Oh, OK.

我們不這樣做。克勞迪婭：哦，好的。

James: We cook our lungs.

詹姆斯我們把肺都烤熟了

Others, some don't. Claudia: Don't.

其他人，有的人沒有。克勞迪婭：不要。

Oh. James: So cooking it

哦。James:所以烹飪它

makes our haggis light and fluffy.

讓我們的羊雜變得輕盈蓬鬆。

So we... Claudia: It smells like liver,

所以我們...它聞起來像肝臟。

actually. James: Yeah, yeah, well,

其實。詹姆斯：是啊，是啊，好。

it will smell like it.

會有它的味道。

It doesn't taste like it.

它的味道並不像它。

Claudia: And lungs, are they...

而肺，是他們... ...

they are safe to eat, I guess, but

他們是安全的吃，我猜，但。

why is it that they are banned in some countries?

為什麼在一些國家會被禁止？

James: According to Canada and America,

詹姆斯。根據加拿大和美國。

they think that you're gonna contract tuberculosis.

他們認為，你會 感染結核病。

Pretty much every butcher in Scotland will make haggis.

蘇格蘭幾乎每個屠夫都會做羊雜碎。

We eat a huge amount of haggis in Scotland.

在蘇格蘭，我們吃了大量的羊雜碎。

Everybody is OK.

大家都很好。

It's really well cooked.

真的是熟透了。

We cook the lungs.

我們把肺給煮了。

They then get, once they've been mixed

然後，一旦他們被混合，他們就會得到。

with all the other ingredients,

與所有其他成分。

it goes into the casing, it gets cooked again.

它進入外殼，它得到再次烹調。

And then for the consumer to eat it, it gets cooked again.

然後讓消費者吃，又被煮熟了。

It's very safe.

它非常安全。

Claudia: What James is referring to

克勞迪婭：詹姆斯指的是

is a 1971 US ban on imported animal lungs

是1971年美國對進口動物肺部的禁令。

that is still in place today.

今天仍然存在的。

But while haggis cannot be imported from Scotland,

但雖然羊雜碎不能從蘇格蘭進口。

there are still some local producers

還有一些在地生產者

feeding those hungry for haggis across the pond.

餵養那些飢餓的羊雜碎越過池塘。

Lungs are cooked for about two hours

煮肺約兩小時

before being mixed with onions and salt.

在與洋蔥和鹽混合之前。

Meanwhile, in this other room,

與此同時，在另一個房間裡，

spices and oatmeal are measured

燕麥粥

to then be blended together with gravy and the minced meat.

然後與肉汁和肉末混合在一起。

They wouldn't share the full list of spices,

他們不願意分享全部的香料清單。

but from what we can tell,

但從目前來看。

there may be nutmeg, mace, and coriander.

可能會有肉豆蔻、豆蔻和香菜。

James: It's really very simple.

詹姆士這真的非常簡單。

Claudia: Yeah.

克勞迪婭：是的。

It is, actually.

事實上，它是。

It's just a lot of ingredients.

就是食材多。

James: A lot of ingredients.

詹姆斯。很多成分。

It's just like making a hot sausage or a salami.

就像做熱腸或臘腸一樣。

Claudia: But you would never just miss out

但是，你永遠不會只是錯過了

on any of these ingredients? James: Yeah.

這些成分中的任何一種？詹姆斯 - 是的詹姆斯： 是啊。

No, you wouldn't. Claudia: If you make haggis

不，你不會的。如果你做的羊雜碎。

without, like, spices, then.

沒有一樣，香料，那麼。

James: No.

詹姆士James: No.

Haggis needs spice.

羊雜碎需要調料。

Claudia: Now it's time to encase the haggis.

克勞迪婭：現在是時候把羊雜碎包起來了。

This is done with beef intestine.

這是用牛腸做的。

So this is the intestine you use?

所以這就是你用的腸子？

James: Yeah, this is just the beef intestine.

詹姆斯：是啊，這只是牛腸。

This is what we call a large bung, or the large intestine.

這就是我們所說的大腸，也就是大腸。

This end here is the equivalent of your appendix.

這裡的這一端相當於你的附錄。

Claudia: OK.

克勞迪婭：好的。

James: So it's that part of the gut.

詹姆斯：所以這是腸胃的那部分。

And along here, there's a small hole.

而沿著這裡，有一個小洞。

Claudia: Where is that?

克勞迪婭：那是哪裡？

James: It's there.

詹姆士它的存在。

And that's where the large intestine

那就是大腸的位置。

joins the small intestine. Claudia: OK.

加入小腸。克勞迪婭：OK。

James: All these casings you would see

詹姆斯你會看到所有這些外殼

being used for mortadella,

被用來做莫拉得拉。

which is what this casing's for,

這就是這個外殼的作用。

or salami, or chorizo.

或薩拉米香腸，或香腸。

The small intestine is typically used for salamis

小腸通常用來製作臘腸。

for a narrower caliber. Claudia: Yeah.

對於一個較窄的口徑。克勞迪婭：是的。

James: But for haggis, that's that casing that we use.

詹姆斯。但對於羊雜碎， 這就是我們使用的外殼。

Claudia: Haggis is quite wide.

克勞迪婭：哈吉斯很寬。

James: Haggis is very wide.

詹姆斯。Haggis是非常廣泛的。

Claudia: OK.

克勞迪婭：好的。

James: These are 454-gram haggis today,

詹姆斯。這些都是454克的羊雜碎今天。

but we do make haggis that are 2.3 kilos.

但我們做的羊雜是2.3公斤。

So they feed 10 people,

所以他們養活了10個人。

and they're very wide and very long.

而且它們非常寬，非常長。

Claudia: And is there a difference in taste

克勞迪婭：而且在口味上有區別嗎？

as well, you know, at the end?

以及，你知道，在最後？

James: Yes, very good question.

詹姆斯，是的，非常好的問題。是的，非常好的問題。

Yeah.

是啊。

Like real cheese.

像真正的奶酪。

Mature cheese, there is a flavor that comes off the casing

成熟的奶酪，會有一種脫殼的味道。

that gives it a more traditional flavor.

這讓它更有傳統的味道。

Claudia: Oh, OK.

克勞迪婭：哦，好的。

James: It's a more mature flavor.

詹姆斯。這是一個更成熟的味道。

Claudia: The freshly made puddings are punched

克勞迪婭：剛做好的布丁是打孔的。

to let out the air as they cook.

烹調時放出空氣。

They will stay in the oven for about an hour

它們會在烤箱裡呆一個小時左右

and cook at 100 degrees Celsius.

並以100攝氏度的溫度烹調。

Oh, wow, look at that!

哦，哇，看那個！

There's some yellow water coming out.

有一些黃水出來了。

Is this for the spices?

這是為了調味品嗎？

James: Oh, no, that's the,

詹姆士。 - 哦，不，那是..:哦，不，那是。

that's the fat.

這就是脂肪。

Claudia: OK.

克勞迪婭：好的。

So it's not water?

所以這不是水？

James: No. Well, some of it's water, and some of it's fat.

詹姆斯 - 不好吧，有些是水，有些是脂肪。

Claudia: OK, wow.

克勞迪婭：好的，哇。

James: Because the casing's porous,

詹姆斯。因為外殼是多孔的。

it's just any, it's some of the fat,

它只是任何，它是一些脂肪。

the moisture within the haggis seeping through. So...

羊雜內的水分滲入。所以...

Claudia: Oh, yeah.

克勞迪婭：哦，是的。

Of course there is fat.

當然有脂肪。

You know, you should save it.

你知道，你應該保存它。

You should make it, like, foie gras or something.

你應該讓它，像，鵝肝什麼的。

[James laughs]

[詹姆斯笑]

James: All the flavors have been bound together

詹姆斯。所有的味道都在一起

through the cooking process.

在烹飪過程中。

So you've got the lamb meat, the beef meat,

所以你有羊肉，牛肉。

the oatmeal, the seasoning, the spices, the salt.

燕麥片，調味料，香料，鹽。

And then once that's now been filled into the casing,

然後一旦現在已經被填入外殼。

the casing's now shrunk through the cooking process.

現在的外殼的收縮 通過烹飪過程。

Claudia: It has shrunk so much.

克勞迪婭：它已經縮小了很多。

They've just come back, like, half the size.

他們只是回來了，像，一半的大小。

The haggis need about four hours to cool down

羊雜碎大約需要四個小時的時間來冷卻

before going to get vacuum-packed.

在去接受真空包裝之前。

But these are not ready to be eaten yet?

但這些還沒來得及吃呢？

'Cause they need to be heated up again

"因為他們需要再次被加熱"。

after they're in the bags?

他們在袋子裡之後？

James: That's what the consumer would do.

詹姆斯，這就是消費者會做的事那是消費者會做的事情。

Claudia: All right.

Claudia：好吧。

James: But in the old days, when we used to

詹姆斯。但是，在過去的日子裡，當我們用來

run the butcher shop,

經營肉店。

back when my grandfather was running the business,

當我爺爺在經營這個生意的時候。

if there was ever a burst haggis,

如果有一個爆裂的羊雜碎。

the guys would take it away and eat it,

這些傢伙會把它拿走吃掉。

'cause it's, right now,

因為它是，現在。

the haggis at this stage is so tasty.

這個階段的羊雜碎是如此的美味。

Claudia: Is it?

是嗎？

James: Oh, it's fresh and succulent and juicy.

詹姆斯。哦，它的新鮮多汁和多汁。

Claudia: Oh, no! So we're losing out on so much

克勞迪婭：哦，不！所以我們失去了這麼多

just by cooking it afterwards. James: No, no.

只是通過之後的烹飪。詹姆斯 - 不，不James: No, no.

No, you have the same thing again when you heat it.

不，你加熱的時候又有同樣的事情。

But right now,

但現在。

there's nothing beats the taste of fresh haggis.

沒有什麼比新鮮羊雜碎的味道更好的了。

And the recipe has only changed once in 67 years.

而67年來，配方只換過一次。

We changed the blend of oatmeal.

我們改變了燕麥片的混合。

My father received a letter

我父親收到一封信

from a very well-renowned food critic called Derek Cooper,

一個叫德里克-庫珀的非常知名的美食評論家。

and he said, "John, I think your haggis is fantastic,

他說："約翰，我覺得你的羊雜碎很好吃。

but I think you could improve it.

但我認為你可以改進它。

You might want to consider changing the blend of oatmeal."

你可能要考慮改變燕麥片的混合方式。"

And Dad did.

爸爸也是這樣做的。

Sent a haggis back to Derek,

給Derek送了一份羊雜碎回去。

and Derek replied, going, "Perfection!"

德里克回答說："完美！"

And we've never changed it since.

從此我們再也沒有改變過。

Haggis isn't Scottish.

Haggis不是蘇格蘭人。

Haggis in one way or another

某種程度上的羊雜

exists in every culture around the world.

世界上的每一種文化都存在。

So a salami is a bit like a haggis,

所以臘腸有點像羊雜碎。

morcilla is a bit like a haggis,

莫西拉有點像羊雜碎。

feijoada in a stew in Brazil is a bit like a haggis.

巴西的燉肉中的feijoada有點像羊雜碎。

A haggis is a dish made with the bits and pieces

羊雜碎是用羊雜碎做成的菜。

that aren't whole muscle meat.

不是整塊肌肉的肉。

So it's the original boil in the bag, you know,

所以，這就是最初的袋中煮，你知道的。

because you're just using all these bits and pieces

因為你只是在使用這些零碎的東西

and you make something that's very tasty

而你做的東西是非常美味的。

and very affordable.

而且非常實惠。

Claudia: James isn't kidding about it

克勞迪婭：詹姆斯不是在開玩笑。

being in almost every culture.

幾乎在每一種文化中都存在。

In Czech cuisine they have jitrnice,

在捷克美食中，他們有jitrnice。

in Romanian cuisine they have tobă,

在羅馬尼亞美食，他們有tobă,

andouillette in France.

法國的andouillette。

They're all made from bits and pieces of animal meat

他們都是用動物的肉塊做成的。

and encased to boil.

幷包住煮熟。

Not only they are tasty,

他們不僅好吃。

but they're also an economical way

但它們也是一種經濟的方式

to use as much of the animal as possible.

以儘可能多地使用動物。

Despite this style of cooking being everywhere,

儘管這種烹飪方式隨處可見。

Scots have a unique passion for haggis.

蘇格蘭人對羊雜碎有著獨特的熱情。

There is even one night a year devoted to haggis,

甚至每年有一個晚上專門吃羊雜碎。

which acts as a sort of unofficial national holiday.

作為一種非正式的國慶節。

It's called Burns Night and is named after Robert Burns,

它叫伯恩斯之夜，以羅伯特-伯恩斯的名字命名。

Scotland's national poet.

蘇格蘭的民族詩人。

A Burns supper traditionally kicks off

傳統上，伯恩斯晚餐是以一個傳統的開始

with an address to the haggis.

與地址的羊雜。

To show you how seriously they take it,

讓你知道他們有多認真。

I'm going to play James reciting the entire poem,

我要扮演詹姆斯背誦整首詩。

while I also show you a collection

而我也向你展示了一套

of people across Scotland acting it out.

蘇格蘭各地的人在演戲。

OK. Take it away, James!

好吧，拿去吧，詹姆斯！把它拿走，詹姆斯！

James: So, "To a Haggis" by Robert Burns.

詹姆士羅伯特-伯恩斯寫的 "致羊雜碎"。 So, "To a Haggis" by Robert Burns.

[audience applauding]

[觀眾鼓掌]

Claudia: Oh, wow. It's very soft.

克勞迪婭：哦，哇。這是非常柔軟的。

James: Yeah.

詹姆斯 - 是的 - James:詹姆斯： 是啊。

Claudia: Smells quite good.

克勞迪婭：聞起來相當不錯。

James: Love it.

詹姆斯，我喜歡愛它。

Claudia: Wow.

克勞迪婭：哇。

James: It's meaty, it's fluffy.

James:它的肉質，它的蓬鬆。

It's got oats, it's peppery, it's nutty.

它有燕麥，它的胡椒，它的堅果。

Claudia: And I like the spices as well.

克勞迪婭：而且我也喜歡這些香料。

It's not that overpowering.

沒有那麼強勢。

James: I'm glad you like it. Claudia: It's good!

詹姆斯，我很高興你喜歡我很高興你喜歡它。克勞迪婭：很好!

James: Don't be shy.

James:不要害羞。

I'm not gonna be shy.

我不會害羞的。