region of Italy called Emilia Romagna.

意大利的艾米利亞-羅馬涅地區。

It is also a region that was hit particularly hard

這也是一個受到特別嚴重打擊的地區。

by the coronavirus.

由冠狀病毒。

As of April 15, 12% of Italy's confirmed cases

截至4月15日，意大利的確診病例佔12%。

were in Emilia Romagna.

在艾米利亞-羅馬涅。

This put the Parmesan cheese industry

這讓帕爾馬乾酪行業

right at the center of the current crisis.

正處於當前危機的中心。

The whole country went into lockdown on March 10,

3月10日，全國進入封鎖狀態。

with only essential jobs allowed to carry on,

只允許進行必要的工作。

including Parmesan production.

包括帕瑪森生產。

I spoke to Nicola Bertinelli,

我和Nicola Bertinelli談過了。

the president of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium

Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium的主席。

and also the owner of a dairy,

同時也是一家奶牛場的老闆。

to understand how the coronavirus crisis is affecting

以瞭解冠狀病毒危機如何影響我們的生活。

the making of Italy's most iconic cheese.

意大利最具代表性的奶酪的製作過程。

According to Nicola, dairies are not fighting against

據Nicola介紹，乳品廠並不是在對抗

a shortage of milk or other ingredients.

缺少牛奶或其他原料；

Their biggest issue is the virus itself.

他們最大的問題是病毒本身。

Claudia: To avoid a milk surplus

克勞迪婭：為了避免牛奶過剩

and being forced to sell it,

並被迫賣掉它。

the 335 Parmesan dairies

335家帕爾瑪乳品店

have started to work together, share vats,

已經開始合作，共享大桶。

and accept another dairy's milk if its personnel is sick.

並在其人員生病的情況下接受另一家乳品廠的牛奶。

Some retired dairymen have been called back to work,

一些退休的奶農被叫回了工作崗位。

and cheese production has been extended to the evenings too.

和奶酪的生產也已經延伸到了晚上。

Claudia: Nicola's dairy hasn't had

克勞迪婭：尼古拉的乳品公司還沒有過

to resort to any of these measures yet.

尚未採取任何這些措施。

But three dairies in the region

但該地區的三家乳品廠

have had to send their milk to other dairies,

不得不將牛奶送到其他乳製品廠。

and one dairy has been forced to do

而一家乳品公司已經被迫做

what Nicola describes as the absolute last resort

萬不得已

and sell their milk to a milk company.

並將其牛奶賣給牛奶公司。

The crisis has also caused other changes.

危機還引起了其他變化。

According to Nicola, Parmesan cheese makers are taking

據Nicola介紹，帕爾馬乾酪製造商正以。

measures to implement social distancing,

措施，實施社會疏導。

washing hands as much as possible,

儘量多洗手。

and keeping access limited.

並限制進入。

But that might not always be possible.

但這不一定能做到。

As you can see from this footage from my 2018 visit,

從我2018年訪問的這段錄像中可以看出。

some steps of cheese making require dairymen

奶酪製作的一些步驟需要乳品商來完成。

to be in close contact with each other,

彼此密切聯繫。

like when 50-kilo blocks of curd like this one

就像當50公斤的凝乳塊，像這樣的。

are transferred into molds.

被轉移到模具中。

So how are they managing that

那麼他們是如何管理的呢？

while keeping the environment safe?

在保證環境安全的同時，?

Claudia: Another instance where social distancing

克勞迪婭：又是一個社會疏離的例子。

might be hard to implement

可能難以實現

is when it comes to inspect the cheese

是當它來檢查奶酪

before it's ready to be sold as Parmigiano-Reggiano.

在它準備好作為Parmigiano -Reggiano出售之前。

This happens after 12 months and is typically done

這種情況在12個月後發生，通常是在

by a third-party master grader

由第三方總評審

who works for the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium.

他為Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium工作。

Claudia: No matter which step of production,

克勞迪婭：不管是哪一步的生產。

cheese making is a job that requires

奶酪製作是一項需要

touching the cheese with bare hands,

徒手觸摸奶酪。

an evergreen dilemma that perhaps now

長青的難題，也許現在

has taken a whole new meaning.

已經有了全新的意義。

Claudia: While this may be the biggest health crisis

克勞迪婭：雖然這可能是最大的健康危機。

Parmesan dairies have ever faced,

帕瑪森乳業曾經面臨。

this is not the first time

這不是第一次

they have faced difficult times.

他們面臨著困難時期。

In 2012, a magnitude 6 earthquake struck the region,

2012年，該地區發生了6級地震。

and warehouses full of Parmesan wheels

和滿滿的帕馬森車輪的倉庫。

crashed to the ground, damaging a million wheels,

墜地，損壞了百萬個車輪。

which at the time accounted for 30% of production.

其中當時佔產量的30%。

That triggered a wave of solidarity

這引發了聲援的浪潮

among the Parmesan dairies.

在帕瑪森乳業中。

Claudia: How are Italians responding to this new crisis?

克勞迪婭：意大利人如何應對這場新的危機？

According to Nicola, with people confined to their homes,

據尼古拉介紹，隨著人們被禁錮在家中。

doing more cooking and looking for comfort

多做飯，多找樂子

in the foods they love,

在他們喜歡的食物中。

the demand for Parmesan has never been so high.

對帕爾馬乾酪的需求從未如此之高。