of Laugarvatn, Iceland,

冰島Laugarvatn的。

where out of the volcanic, muddy ground

在那裡，從火山泥地裡出來的

comes the most pristine rye bread.

來最原始的黑麥麵包。

Everywhere you look in Iceland

在冰島隨處可見

there seems to be something bubbling,

似乎有什麼東西在冒泡。

whether it's a geyser, a lagoon,

無論它是一個間歇泉，瀉湖。

and the geothermal bakery here is no different.

而這裡的地熱麵包店也不例外。

But how do they cook the bread here without an oven?

但在這裡，沒有烤箱，他們怎麼煮麵包？

Let's go find out.

我們去看看吧

In Iceland we met with Siggi Rafn Hilmarsson,

在冰島，我們見到了Siggi Rafn Hilmarsson。

general manager at Laugarvatn Fontana.

Laugarvatn Fontana的總經理。

Siggi Rafn Hilmarsson: This is our main tool.

Siggi Rafn Hilmarsson：這是我們的主要工具。

Ju: He followed in his grandmother's

菊。他繼承了他奶奶的衣缽

and mother's footsteps in this hot volcanic sand.

和母親的腳步在這炎熱的火山沙中。

This is his bakery, no matter the weather.

這是他的麵包店，無論天氣如何。

The process starts with Siggi making the dough.

這個過程是從Siggi做麵糰開始的。

He uses 4 cups of rye, 2 cups of flour,

他用了4杯黑麥，2杯麵粉。

2 cups of sugar, 4 teaspoons of baking powder,

2杯糖，4茶匙泡打粉。

and 1 teaspoon of salt.

和1茶匙鹽。

So, why is it that you use rye, then?

那麼，你為什麼要用黑麥呢？

Siggi: Well, rye has been used in Iceland for decades.

Siggi黑麥在冰島已經使用了幾十年了。

It's something that

這是什麼東西

originally came from Denmark to Iceland.

最初是從丹麥來到冰島的。

And then we add milk to this.

然後我們再往裡面加牛奶。

Ju: And that cow's milk.

朱。還有那牛的奶。

Siggi: Yeah, cow's milk, yeah.

Siggi：是的，牛乳，是的。

The milk is from the area,

牛奶是當地的。

from the cows in the area.

從該地區的奶牛。

And there is a company in Selfoss

而在Selfoss有一家公司

about 25 minutes away from here that produces it.

大約25分鐘的路程，從這裡生產它。

Ju: And you get this fresh every day?

Ju:你每天都能得到這個新鮮的東西？

Siggi: Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

Siggi：對，對，對，對。

So it's really a local thing.

所以這真的是一個地方的事情。

The butter we use comes from the same company, same cows.

我們使用的黃油來自同一家公司，同一頭牛。

Ju: So, what's the art to making this, then,

朱。那麼，什麼是藝術 製作這個，然後。

to stirring this up?

攪得天翻地覆？

Siggi: Yeah, just put love in it.

Siggi：是啊，把愛放進去就好了。

Ju: [laughing] Put love in it, yeah.

朱。[笑]把愛放進去，對。

Is this your family recipe?

這是你的家傳祕方嗎？

Siggi: Yeah, this is the same recipe

是的，這是同樣的配方。

my grandmother and mother was,

我的祖母和母親是。

they were using.

他們在使用。

If you go around the country,

如果你走遍全國各地。

this is done in a few places.

這在一些地方是這樣做的。

Some people use honey or syrup instead of sugar.

有些人用蜂蜜或糖漿代替糖。

But this is the way it has been done here,

但這裡的做法是這樣的。

and I am just simply honoring that tradition.

而我只是單純的尊重這個傳統。

Ju: So, how will you know this is done, then?

朱。那你怎麼知道這事辦成了呢？

Siggi: It's supposed to look

Siggi：它看起來應該是這樣。

basically more or less like this.

基本上差不多是這樣的。

So I think we have a really good dough here.

所以我覺得我們這裡有一個非常好的麵糰。

Ju: When the dough is ready,

菊。當面團準備好。

he pours it in a tin lined with butter.

他把它倒在一個襯有黃油的罐子裡。

Do you have to use a special tin for this?

一定要用專門的罐子嗎？

Siggi: It needs to be strong because,

西吉：它需要強大，因為。

as you can see, on the lid here,

如你所見，在這裡的蓋子上。

it's been banged quite heavily with a shovel,

它已經被敲打相當嚴重 用鐵鍬。

you know, when we are digging it up.

你知道，當我們挖掘它。

The people use all kind of things

人們使用各種東西

to bake this bread here.

在這裡烤這個麵包。

You can even,

你甚至可以。

there are some people that use

有一些人使用

empty Mackintosh Chocolate box, you know, for this.

空的麥金託什巧克力盒，你知道，為了這個。

But this pot works well for us.

但這個鍋對我們來說很好用。

Stainless steel.

不鏽鋼的。

Ju: The dough is covered with a layer

朱。麵糰上覆蓋著一層

of baking paper, then wrapped in film.

的烤紙，然後用薄膜包起來。

Siggi: Do this here.

Siggi:在這裡做這個。

Just one circle, like this.

就一個圈，像這樣。

And then we put the top.

然後我們把頂。

Ju: Do you make this with your kids, then?

菊。你和你的孩子一起做這個，然後？

Siggi: My kids love this, yes. Ju: Yeah?

Siggi:我的孩子喜歡這個，是的。朱：是嗎？

And how long will you bake this for?

那你要烤多久呢？

Siggi: 24 hours, yeah. Ju: 24 hours, wow.

Siggi：24小時，是的。朱：24小時，哇。

Siggi: 24 hours in the ground.

Siggi：在地面上24小時。

It's amazing,

太神奇了

if you bake it for shorter time,

如果你烘烤的時間較短。

like 17, 18 hours,

像17，18小時。

it usually doesn't turn out good.

通常不會有好結果。

If we bake it for too long,

如果我們烤的時間太長。

25, six, seven, eight hours,

25、6、7、8小時。

it starts to, you know, compress.

它開始，你知道，壓縮。

So, 24 is the magic.

所以，24是神奇的。

So, we are good to go.

所以，我們可以走了。

Ju: My goodness, oh, it's actually quite heavy.

朱。我的天，哦，其實很重。

Siggi: And this is our main tool for this baking.

Siggi。而這是我們的主要工具 對於這種烘烤。

Ju: It's time to put our bread in its oven,

Ju:是時候把我們的麵包放進烤箱了。

aka the hot springs of the lake here in Laugarvatn.

也就是勞加瓦特恩這裡的湖泊溫泉。

The sand by the lake can host from 10 to 15 tins of bread.

湖邊的沙子可以容納10到15罐麵包。

Siggi can either dig a completely new hole

Siggi可以挖一個新的洞。

or reuse one from the day before.

或重用前一天的。

Siggi: It's good to pile,

西吉：很好堆砌。

make a good pile on top of it

厚積薄發

just to make this isolation, you know.

只是為了讓這種隔離，你知道的。

[shovel grating sand]

[鐵鍬刨沙]

Ju: Why do you pat it down like that?

阿菊你為什麼要這樣拍打它？

Siggi: To make it more beautiful.

Siggi。為了讓它更美麗。

Ju: You can't have ugly bread with this view.

朱。你不能有醜陋的麵包 與此觀點。

Siggi: And the mark.

Siggi:和標記。

Voilà.

這就對了

And we always mark the holes with a stone like this

我們總是用石頭在洞口做標記，就像這樣。

so the other locals know that we are baking.

這樣其他當地人就知道我們在烤肉了。

Ju: Yeah.

朱。是啊。

Siggi: No matter how the weather is,

Siggi無論天氣如何。

the recipe is always the same.

配方總是一樣的。

When we have a lot of rain

當我們有很多雨的時候

and the snow melting from the mountains,

和山上的雪融化。

this lake can rise up to meter, meter and a half.

這個湖泊可以上升到米，米半。

Then this area here will all be under water.

那麼這裡的這片區域將全部被水淹沒。

Ju: Ah, right.

菊。啊，對了。

Siggi: So,

Siggi：所以。

few times, our breads have basically drowned.

幾次，我們的麵包基本都被淹沒了。

Ju: Oh, no, poor bread!

小朱哦，不，可憐的麵包！

Siggi: It's like, "It's over there!"

Siggi：就像，"它在那邊！"

Ju: Oh, no! [laughs]

朱。哦，不！[笑]

And I'm guessing that's not good to eat, then.

那我估計就不好吃了。

Siggi: Nah, nah. Ju: Just start again, yeah.

Siggi。不，不。朱：只是重新開始，是的。

Siggi: More like a bread soup or something.

Siggi:更像是一個麵包湯什麼的。

Ju: This one's been in for 24 hours?

菊。這個人已經在24小時了？

Siggi: Yeah.

Siggi：是的。

And you can see there's a lot of energy going on here.

你可以看到這裡的能量很大。

Ju: Oh, wow.

朱：哦，哇。

Wow, that is hot. How hot is that?

哇，那是熱的。有多熱？

Siggi: It's about boiling temperature, actually.

Siggi：其實是關於沸騰的溫度。

Ju: Mm.

Ju:嗯。

Wow.

哇哦

[water boiling]

[水沸騰]

Siggi: Just love that sound.

Siggi:只是喜歡這個聲音。

Ju: Yeah.

朱。是啊。

That's why it's called lava bread, then?

所以才叫熔岩麵包，那麼？

That's the reason for lava bread?

這就是熔岩麵包的原因？

Siggi: Yeah.

Siggi：是的。

[shovel grating sand]

[鐵鍬刨沙]

I'm gonna take most of the sand away from it,

我要把大部分的沙子帶走。

and then we open it up just to

然後我們打開它，只是為了

let the air come in.

讓空氣進來。

And...

還有...

aah.

啊。

That's good.

那就好

OK.

好的

It's looking very promising.

看起來很有希望。

Ju: Oh, really? Got a good one.

菊。哦，真的嗎？有一個好的。

Siggi: You want to do it?

Siggi：你想做？

Ju: Um, I'll have a go.

朱。嗯，我會有一個去。

Siggi: Yeah, sounds good.

Siggi：對，聽起來不錯。

Ju: Right.

朱。是的。

[groaning] There we go.

[呻吟]我們去那裡。

Siggi: Beautiful.

Siggi：漂亮。

Ju: My bread children.

Ju:我的麵包孩子。

Siggi: Yes.

Siggi：是的。

Now, we are gonna try this inside.

現在，我們要在裡面試試這個。

I'm gonna cut it into slices

我要把它切成一片一片的

and serve it with smoked trout from the lake.

並配上湖裡的煙燻鱒魚。

But it also tastes really good with boiled eggs.

但它與煮雞蛋的味道也非常好。

Hot-spring-boiled eggs.

熱水煮雞蛋。

So, we're gonna....

所以，我們要....。

[water boiling]

[水沸騰]

One cracked open a little bit.

一個裂開了一點。

Ju: That is the most novel way

菊。這是最新穎的方式

I've ever seen anyone cook an egg.

我從來沒有見過有人煮雞蛋。

Siggi: And we leave them here for 30 minutes.

Siggi:我們把他們留在這裡30分鐘。

I mean, look at that. [laughs]

我的意思是，看那個。[笑]

Ju: That is incredible.

朱。這是不可思議的。

This is such a delicate process with such a big spade.

這麼大的鏟子，這是一個多麼微妙的過程。

[Siggi laughing] Ju: It's just like....

[Siggi笑]朱。這就像....

Siggi: Yeah, with this.

Siggi：對，有了這個。

Ju: It's so delicate. I love it.

朱。它是如此精緻。我很喜歡它。

Siggi: If you touch the sand -

Siggi：如果你接觸到沙子--------。

Ju: Can I touch -

Ju:我可以觸摸 -

Siggi: Feel how hot it is.

Siggi。感覺有多熱。

Ju: Ooh, yeah.

朱。哦，是的。

Siggi: And it's also fun to touch the lake.

Siggi。而且它也是有趣的觸摸湖。

Ju: [gasps] Wow.

Ju:[喘氣] 哇。

And people just swim in here every morning?

人們每天早上都在這裡游泳？

Siggi: Nah, not every morning.

Siggi:不，不是每天早上。

If you, it's,

如果你，是。

you want to be swimming out there,

你想在那裡游泳。

where the water is colder.

其中水比較冷。

Here is hot spring water coming out.

這裡是溫泉水出來了。

Ju: Oh, of course.

朱。哦，當然。

Siggi: Also, if you look closely in the water,

Siggi:另外，如果你在水裡仔細觀察，

can you see the fish over there, that little fish?

你能看到那邊的魚嗎，那條小魚？

This fish is the only fish in the world

這種魚是世界上唯一的魚

that has a hot tub, you know.

有一個熱水浴缸，你知道的。

[Ju laughs]

[菊笑]

And they're OK.

而且他們也很好。

I think we are just about done.

我想我們就快完成了。

Ju: So, it's actually quite a dangerous area, though.

朱。所以，這其實是一個相當危險的地區，雖然。

I mean, I see you've got a "Danger! Hot Springs" sign.

我的意思是，我看到你有一個 "危險！ 溫泉 "的標誌。溫泉 "的標誌。

Siggi: Yeah, it's all, you know, quite warm.

Siggi：是啊，都是，你知道的，挺溫暖的。

Ju: The smell of that's amazing.

朱。這個味道很奇妙。

Siggi: Yeah, it is, huh?

Siggi：是啊，是吧？

Ju: Ah, it's almost like burnt toffee kind of smell.

阿菊啊，這幾乎是像燒太妃糖的那種味道。

It's really, really sweet. Yeah, yeah.

這是真的，真的很甜蜜。是啊，是啊。

So, how can you expect this to taste?

那麼，你能期待這個味道如何呢？

What's the taste of this gonna be like?

這東西的味道會是怎樣的？

Siggi: Like, it's a unique taste for itself,

Siggi。喜歡，這是一個獨特的味道為自己。

but a lot of our visitors from other countries

但我們很多來自其他國家的遊客

say it reminds them of, like, a gingerbread.

說這讓他們想起了，像，薑餅。

Really nice texture.

真的很有質感。

It's quite, like, a heavy bread.

這是相當，喜歡，一個沉重的麵包。

And because it just came from the spring, they're,

因為剛從春天來，他們。

they're quite warm.

他們是相當溫暖的。

Ju: What's the most traditional way to serve this bread?

朱。這種麵包最傳統的吃法是什麼？

Siggi: Exactly like we are doing right now.

Siggi:就像我們現在正在做的一樣。

And you can see how the butter starts to melt right away.

你可以看到黃油是如何馬上開始融化的。

Ju: How old is this recipe?

朱。這是多老的配方？

How traditional is this?

這有多傳統？

Siggi: Well, I've been trying to track it down,

Siggi好吧，我一直在努力追蹤它。

and I'm in the

而我在

very late 1800s, early 1900s. Somewhere there.

很晚19世紀，20世紀初。某個地方。

OK, now we have the hot spring egg here.

好了，現在我們這裡有溫泉蛋。

Ju: That is a perfect-looking egg.

菊。這是一個完美的外觀雞蛋。

Siggi: Should we try? Ju: Yeah!

Siggi：我們要不要試試？尤：是啊！

Should we cheers? What do we say?

我們要不要歡呼？我們該說什麼？

Siggi: Cheers, yeah.

Siggi:乾杯，是的。

Ju: What's the Icelandic term?

Ju:冰島語怎麼說？

Siggi: Instead of cheers?

Siggi：而不是歡呼？

Ju: Yeah. Siggi: Skál.

朱：是啊。Siggi: Skál.

Ju: Skál? Skál. Siggi: Yeah, skál. [laughs]

Ju:Skál?Skál.Siggi：是的，Skál。[笑聲]

Both: Mm.

兩人：嗯。

Ju: It is really sweet. Mm.

菊。它是真的甜。嗯。

Like gingerbread, yeah.

像薑餅，是的。

[Ju groaning] [Siggi laughing]

[Ju呻吟] [Siggi笑]

Siggi: Well done. Ju: A true Viking.

Siggi:幹得好。Ju：一個真正的維京人。一個真正的維京人。

This is probably the most

這可能是最

wholesome thing I've ever done.

我做過的健康的事情。