I'm here today at English Heritage's Kenilworth Castle.

我今天來到了英國遺產的凱尼爾沃斯城堡。

In 1575 this castle welcomed Elizabeth I for 19 days

1575年，這座城堡接待了伊麗莎白一世19天。

at the invitation of her favorite, Robert Dudley.

在她最愛的羅伯特-達德利的邀請下。

Today we're going to explore

今天我們要探討的是

Elizabeth I's iconic look and discover what her makeup can teach us

伊麗莎白一世的標誌性妝容，發現她的妝容可以教給我們什麼？

about her reign.

關於她的統治。

So join me as we meet our Queen and we show you how to create

那就和我一起來認識一下我們的女王，我們教你如何製作

an Elizabeth I-inspired look at home.

伊麗莎白一世的家居靈感。

Your majesty!

皇上

Well she's not ready yet.

她還沒準備好

It would have taken Queen Elizabeth a good couple of hours to get herself up

伊麗莎白女王要花好幾個小時才能站起來。

to scratch.

刮。

I'm sure. Now Elizabeth I, one of the most recognisable women in British history,

我敢肯定現在的伊麗莎白一世，是英國曆史上最知名的女性之一。

talk me through her look

給我講講她的樣子

I feel like her look is iconic and

我覺得她的造型很有代表性，而且

there were three main parts to it so it was porcelain white clean, clear skin

它有三個主要部分，所以它是瓷白乾淨，透明的皮膚

she had rosy cheeks and then beautiful ruby lips

她有紅潤的臉頰和美麗的紅寶石嘴脣

And how are you going to recreate that today on Annette?

那你今天要怎麼在安妮特身上重現呢？

So we're gonna be using either modern

所以我們要用現代的

equivalents of Elizabethan products or ones that are a little bit more

等同於伊麗莎白時代的產品，或那些更多一點的

authentic to the time

當世之作

That's exciting! Now modern equivalents I'm assuming

真令人興奮！現在，我假設現代的等價物為

that's because some of the original ingredients could be quite harmful?

那是因為一些原始成分可能相當有害？

Yes, so some of the ingredients that Elizabeth was using on her face things

是的，所以伊麗莎白在臉上使用的一些成分... ...

like lead are actually toxic and we don't want to kill our model today so

像鉛其實是有毒的，我們今天不想殺死我們的模型，所以。

we're using ones from modern times they give you the same effect

我們用的是現代的，他們給你同樣的效果。

That's a release. So what are we gonna start with?

這是一個釋放。那我們要從什麼開始呢？

So we're going to start with our priming stage

所以我們要從我們的初始階段開始。

and we're using egg whites

我們用的是蛋清

Egg whites were used a lot in Elizabethan times and they were used to tighten the

蛋清在伊麗莎白時代被大量使用，它們被用來收緊。

skin, reduce the size of pores and also they help to prevent freckles from appearing

皮膚，減少毛孔的大小，他們也有助於防止雀斑的出現。

which were a big no-no at that time

這在當時是大忌

Oh, I see. So almost like of like a primer or a mask today?

哦，我明白了。所以今天幾乎是像底妝或面膜一樣？

Yeah, really similar to a primer or mask. I've actually been trying this

是啊，真的類似於底妝或者面膜。其實我一直在嘗試這個

out on myself and I love it and my skin looks even better

我很喜歡它，我的皮膚看起來更好了

Really? So we could use this today?

真的嗎？ 所以我們今天可以用這個？所以我們今天可以用這個？

Totally, yeah you should try it

對，對，你應該試試

I definitely, definitely will. It's kind of like a cooking show instead of makeup!

我一定，一定會的。這有點像一個烹飪節目，而不是化妝!

Great I'm so interested to see how it feels and and how it looks as well

太好了，我很想看看它的感覺和它的外觀是怎樣的

So what I'm gonna do is use one egg white that I've foamed up so there's a little bit of texture in there

所以我要做的是用一個蛋白，我已經發泡了，所以有一點點的質感在那裡。

and then I'm gonna use a natural hair brush just to smooth it all over Annette's skin

然後我要用天然的頭髮刷在安妮特的皮膚上塗抹均勻

So is this actually a makeup brush?

那麼這其實是一把化妝刷嗎？

It's actually a paint brush but it's

這其實是一個油漆刷，但它是。

close to what you would have used at the time so a bundle of animal hair on a

接近於你當時會使用的東西，所以一捆動物毛髮上的。

wooden handle

木柄

I am loving this: paint brush, egg whites this is not at all I was

我很喜歡這個：畫筆，蛋清，這完全不是我的風格

expecting. Brilliant!

期待。聰明！

So now I'm going to start painting it on I'll start up in

所以，現在我要開始畫上它，我會開始在。

the forehead and work our way around the skin

繞額而行

Wow! How does that feel Annette?

哇！感覺如何，安妮特？

It feels really nice actually, it's really smooth

其實感覺真的很好，真的很順暢。

It looks like you're being glazed

你好像被上了釉一樣

Yeah, that is what it feels like actually

是啊，這就是它的感覺其實

And actually egg white was used as a varnish and end stage to lot of makeup

而實際上，蛋清被用作很多化妝品的清漆和結束階段。

to make the skin look smooth

使皮膚看起來光滑

It has kind of a sheen to it as well

它有一種光澤，它也

And you'll know that it started to set when it becomes completely matte

當它完全變成啞光的時候，你就知道它開始定型了

So I'm gonna do two layers and then we'll leave it for 15 minutes to set down

所以我要做兩層，然後讓它靜置15分鐘，讓它沉澱下來。

and then we'll remove it

然後我們會把它刪除

So it's to the optimum amount of layers that you want?

所以是到了你想要的最佳層數？

Two is the optimum amount of layers yeah for maximum softness and maximum tightening

兩層是最佳的層數，是啊，最大的柔軟度和最大的緊緻度。

Great

厲害

Ok, it's all set so now it's time to remove it

好了，一切都準備好了，現在是時候刪除它了。

How does it feel now that it's set?

現在定下來了，感覺怎麼樣？

It feels a bit tighter and it feels a

感覺有點緊，感覺有點

little bit like when you put PVA glue on your hands as a kid

有點像小時候在手上塗PVA膠水的感覺

This is quite relaxing

這是很輕鬆的

And this is rose water is it? It smells delicious!

這就是玫瑰水吧？聞起來很香！

It smells amazing

好香啊

So rose water was known for its soothing and astringent properties and I'm

所以玫瑰花水以舒緩和收斂的功效著稱，而我是

removing it with a linen cloth which is the Elizabethan equivalent of a wet wipe

拭拭眼淚

So it's so much better for your skin isn't it, to use a linen cloth

所以用亞麻布對你的皮膚好得多，不是嗎？

rather than a makeup remover wipe

勝過卸妝水

It's so nice for your skin and it's environmentally friendly

對你的皮膚很好，而且很環保。

So in the 16th century Elizabeth would have used ceruse as a foundation, tell me about that

所以在16世紀，伊麗莎白會用Ceruse作為基礎，告訴我吧

So ceruse was made from white led mixed with borax or vinegar or lemon juice

所以Ceruse是由白鉛與硼砂或醋或檸檬汁混合而成的。

and the thing about that is it's extremely toxic to the skin and

而關於這一點，它是非常有毒的皮膚和。

eventually the moisture from your skin would react with those chemicals and

最終，你皮膚上的水分會與這些化學物質發生反應，並最終導致你的皮膚出現問題。

slowly eat away your flesh

蠶食你的肉體

Nasty!

討厭！

So we're not using that today I'm hoping?

所以我們今天不用這個，我希望？

We're definitely not using that today, no

我們今天絕對不會用這個，不會的。

So a white water-based face paint is the

所以白色的水性面漆是

key to this; much easier and much more gentle on the skin

關鍵，更容易，更溫和的皮膚。

But creates the same effect

但會產生同樣的效果

But creates the same effect

但會產生同樣的效果

That really, really is white isn't it you can see it

真的，真的是白色的，不是嗎，你可以看到它。

giving you know that sort of idea of virginal purity that was so important to

給你知道的那種想法 處女的純潔性 這是非常重要的。

her image

她的形象

And it's going on quite thick as well isn't it? My understanding is

而且它的發展也很厚實不是嗎？我的理解是

that she would have to put more and more on as she got older to cover her skin damage

隨著年齡的增長，她必須塗抹更多的東西來掩蓋她的皮膚損傷。

Is that right?

是這樣嗎？

Yeah, and we know that Elizabeth had smallpox as a young

是的，我們知道伊麗莎白年輕時得過天花。

lady and those were scars that she was quite conscious of so she wanted to

女士，這些都是她很清楚的疤痕，所以她想。

cover those up and also as the effects of the ceruse took hold she had to wear

掩蓋了這些東西，而且由於Ceruse的影響，她不得不穿上了一件衣服

more and more to cover that up

越來越多地掩蓋了這一點

So the irony being that your skin is getting worse and worse

諷刺的是，你的皮膚越來越差了

and you're putting more and more of this toxic substance on it to try and

你把越來越多的這種有毒物質在它身上，以嘗試和。

cover up the effects of the actual product itself

掩蓋產品本身的效果

So then it gets worse and worse and worse and you're in a vicious cycle

所以情況越來越糟，越來越糟，你就陷入了一個惡性循環中

I've mixed up in lip color for us to use and I'm gonna go ahead and put it on and

我已經混合了脣色給我們使用，我要去把它和

while I'm applying it, I'm really interested in your take on

當我應用它的時候，我真的對你的看法很感興趣。

Elizabeth as a trendsetter

伊麗莎白是潮流的引領者

Well, at the time that Elizabeth was

嗯，在伊麗莎白的時候

queen, the monarchy was really the head of fashion

皇后，君主制才是真正的時尚之首。

not only were they the head of state,

他們不僅是國家元首。

but they were also really ahead in the style stakes

但他們在風格上也確實領先於其他國家

So everybody wanted to dress like the Queen or to sort of emulate the women in the

所以，每個人都想穿得像女王一樣，或者是模仿女人們的穿著。

court circles around her really

圍著她轉

So like celebrities today kind of?

所以像今天的名人那種？

Exactly, exactly. It's not so much the monarchy anymore it's more celebrities

沒錯，正是如此。現在已經不是君主制的問題了，而是名人的問題了

or Instagram stars who kind of set the kind of trends that Elizabeth was

或Instagram上的明星誰種設置的那種趨勢，伊麗莎白是。

setting back when she was Queen

當年的皇后

But it could only go so far because Elizabeth

但它只能走到這一步，因為伊麗莎白

was also really keen on issuing these edicts and proclamations about what

也非常熱衷於發佈這些關於什麼的詔書和公告。

people could and couldn't wear so this would regulate the sort of fabrics that

人們可以穿，也不能穿，所以這將規範什麼樣的面料，這將是一個很好的選擇

different people could wear and even the sort of size of the stuffing that they

不同的人可以穿的衣服，甚至是他們的餡料的大小的種類。

could use to create their, you know, very extreme Tudor silhouettes

可以用來創造他們的，你知道的，非常極端的都鐸王朝的輪廓。

Now one of the reasons for this was that it was really important at this time to be able to

現在，其中一個原因是，在這個時候，能夠做到這一點真的很重要

tell just by looking at someone their status in society so there was a lot of

看一個人的社會地位就知道了，所以有很多的

anxiety around sort of dressing above your station, so this was really

焦慮周圍的排序穿衣高於你的站，所以這是真正的

important and Elizabeth was really keen to sort of keep a check on this

很重要，伊麗莎白真的很想檢查一下這一點。

But some of her statement looks kind of really stay with us today like this very strong

但是，她的一些聲明看起來有點真的留在我們今天像這個非常強大的。

red lip that you're doing here

紅脣

Yes, I think you might be a fan of this lip

是的，我想你可能會喜歡這款脣膏。

Very much so!

很有道理！

What's involved in this? What are you using?

這裡面涉及到什麼？你用的是什麼？

So I've used a synthetic version of a vermillion pigment, so it's like a loose powder

所以我用了一種合成版的硃紅色顏料，所以它就像一種散粉一樣

pigment and I've mixed it with just a normal lip balm

我把它和普通的潤脣膏混在一起了。

Just a normal lip balm so again not poisonous?

只是普通的潤脣膏，所以又沒有毒？

Not poisonous, no. And shape wise she really liked a

沒有毒，沒有。而且外形上她真的很喜歡一個

smaller more compact mouth because it made your eyes look bigger

嘴更小，更緊湊，因為它使你的眼睛看起來更大。

So that's the shape I've gone with

所以我就用了這個形狀。

Now at this time the health of the nation was really projected through the body of

現在這個時候，國家的健康狀況是真正通過身體投射出來的。

the monarch and I'm guessing that blush had a crucial role to play in this, is that right?

君主和我猜測臉紅在這其中有至關重要的作用，是這樣嗎？

Yeah, it was an important concept for the Elizabethans and blush adds life and

是啊，這是一個重要的概念，伊麗莎白人和腮紅增加了生活和。

health to the skin and if the Queen looks healthy, then the country's healthy

健康的皮膚，如果女王看起來很健康，那麼國家就會很健康

So I'm applying it in a place that makes you look as if you're naturally flushing

所以我塗抹的地方，讓你看起來就像自然沖洗一樣

So it comes down from the cheekbone in a downward triangle motion

所以它從顴骨處下來，呈下三角運動

Down from the cheekbone?

從顴骨往下？

Down from the cheekbone

從顴骨往下

So that's quite different to how we apply blush today, isn't it?

所以，這和我們今天塗抹腮紅的方式很不一樣，不是嗎？

It's really different it's much less structured

這真的很不一樣，它的結構少了很多。

you don't see a contour in it, it's all about where you would naturally blush upwards from

你看不出它的輪廓，都是你自然臉紅的地方，從這裡往上看。

What are you using to create this Elizabethan blush?

你是用什麼來製作這個伊麗莎白的腮紅的？

This is quite an authentic recipe. This is a mixture of

這是一個相當正宗的配方。這是一個混合的

crushed madder root mixed with beeswax. And with madder you get this really

碾碎的狂草根與蜂蠟混合。摻雜著迷迭香，你會得到這個真的

beautiful, slightly orangey-red tone that makes this really nice blush color

美麗的，微微的橙紅色調，使這個顏色非常漂亮的腮紅。

It does look quite natural, doesn't it?

看起來確實很自然，不是嗎？

Madder was used to dye clothes as well to

馬德也被用來染衣服，以達到以下目的

dye fabric so it clearly had a number of uses

染料，所以它的用途很廣。

Yeah, it was used a lot

是的，它被使用了很多

In portraits that we have as Elizabeth there's really not much going on in the

在我們作為伊麗莎白的肖像畫中，其實並沒有太多的事情在發生。

eye and especially the eyebrow area. How are you gonna do that?

眼睛，尤其是眉毛部位。你要怎麼做呢？

Well we could bleach, or we could pluck...

我們可以漂白，也可以拔掉... ...

but I'm not going to this time

但這次我不去了

To keep it more accessible I'm going to use some concealer just to make Annette's eyebrows

為了讓人更容易接受，我打算用一些遮瑕膏，只是為了讓安奈特的眉毛變得更漂亮

look less prominent and more Elizabethan, because in the Elizabethan times having

看上去不那麼突出，更有伊麗莎白風格，因為在伊麗莎白時代有

fine eyebrows and a high hairline we're considered the real points of beauty

眉毛細、髮際線高，才是真正的美中之美

So this you know the really thin or no eyebrows is the complete antithesis of

所以，這個你知道真正的薄或沒有眉毛是完全對立的。

this sort of eyebrow trends that we have today, aren't they?

我們今天的這種眉毛趨勢，不是嗎？

Yeah, it's like anti-Instagram brow to have no eyebrow whatsoever

是啊，就像反Instagram的眉毛，沒有眉毛什麼的。

Well I'm going to leave you guys to add the finishing touches and I'm gonna go find out more

好吧，我讓你們去做最後的修飾，我要去找更多的人了。

about Elizabeth's visit to Kenilworth Castle, so I look forward to coming back

關於伊麗莎白參觀凱尼爾沃斯城堡的事 所以我期待著再來一次

later and meeting the Queen

後來又見了皇后

Richard, tell me about Kenilworth Castle and the people who lived here

理查德，跟我說說凱尼爾沃斯城堡和住在這裡的人吧

Well it was built in the 1120s and over the next few centuries it was in and out of royal

它建於1120年，在接下來的幾個世紀裡，它一直在皇室中進進出出。

control until in 1563 Elizabeth I gave it to Robert Dudley

直到1563年伊麗莎白一世把它交給羅伯特-達德利。

And so she visited him here a few times. What happened in 1575?

所以她來這裡看望過他幾次。1575年發生了什麼？

That's right. It was Elizabeth's fourth and final visit here

沒錯，這是伊麗莎白第四次也是最後一次來這裡這是伊麗莎白第四次也是最後一次來這裡了

It was a really grand affair, it was the longest stay she had at any of her courtier's castles

這真是一場盛大的盛會，這是她在朝廷城堡裡呆的時間最長的一次。

So there was feasting, specialty dramas and plays put on and even some fireworks

所以有宴席，有特色戲劇和話劇的上演，甚至還有一些煙花的燃放

And what do Elizabeth dress and makeup

而伊麗莎白的穿著和妝容是什麼

tell us about her as a person?

告訴我們關於她這個人的情況？

Well, people writing at the time give us quite a rich impression of who she was

好吧，當時寫文章的人給我們留下了相當豐富的印象，她是誰？

She was conscious about how she was seen

她很清楚自己的形象

and the way she presents herself was as the virginal Queen emphasizing that she

而她表現自己的方式是作為一個處女女王強調，她

was enough as a ruler without sacrificing her power by marrying

作為一個統治者已經足夠了，而不因嫁人而犧牲自己的權力。

someone else

他人

Thanks Richard. I'm gonna go back and check on the majestic makeover

謝謝理查德。我要回去檢查一下那個宏偉的改造計劃

Wow, Annette you look amazing!

哇，安妮特，你看起來棒極了!

Rebecca you've done such a fantastic job

麗貝卡，你做得太出色了。

Thank you very much!

謝謝你

I love the wig!

我喜歡這頂假髮！

Yeah, I think the wig is fantastic and I love

是啊，我覺得假髮是夢幻般的，我喜歡。

the pearls dotted into it as well because pearls were quite special to Queen Elizabeth

因為珍珠對伊麗莎白女王來說是很特別的東西

Definitely. They were known to symbolise chastity so it's absolutely

絕對的。眾所周知，它們象徵著貞潔，所以絕對是... ...

perfect that the Virgin Queen would be dotted with these kind of symbols

聖母娘娘的身上會有這種標誌，真是太完美了。

You just look so amazing

你看起來好棒

And this fabric as well would have been created using actual

而這塊布料也是用實際的東西來製作的

gold thread so she would have been this real sort of otherworldly image of regal

金線，所以她會一直這種真正的異界形象高貴的

splendor

輝煌

You look absolut ely amazing, Annette, thank you for being a fantastic model

你看起來絕對令人驚豔，安妮特，謝謝你成為一個神奇的模特。

Do you feel splendid and otherworldly?

你是否感覺到燦爛和另類？

I do. I actually feel quite strong in this

我是這麼想的其實我覺得自己很強

In fact, I think I'm ready to explore my castle

事實上，我想我已經準備好去探索我的城堡了。

Today we've shown you how you can achieve an Elizabethan look that's a lot

今天我們為大家展示瞭如何實現伊麗莎白風格的造型，讓人眼前一亮。

less deadly than our 16th century ancestors

殺傷力比十六世紀的祖先要小

Elizabeth's makeup fed into the cult of the Virgin Queen

伊麗莎白的化妝融入了對聖母瑪利亞的崇拜。

and has left us with an enduring image of her as an iconic ruler

並給我們留下了她作為一個標誌性統治者的持久形象。

Is there a historic makeup look that you'd like to see us recreate?

有什麼歷史悠久的妝容是你想看到我們重現的嗎？

If so leave us a comment

如果有，請給我們留言

Until then, I'm Amber Butchart and thanks for joining us at Kenilworth Castle

在那之前，我是安珀-布查特，感謝你來凱尼爾沃斯城堡參加我們的活動。

you

你