Name: 帕爾瑪-漢姆的髮型、妝容和哥特式美妝的魅力 - VOGUE JAPAN| 極致美麗｜VOGUE JAPAN (パルマ・ハムの重力に逆らったヘアメイクとゴス・ビューティーの世界。| Extreme Beauty | VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2020-10-08T19:55:28.000Z
Duration: 12 min 20 s

未來進行式

I'm gonna be doing huge hair, huge makeup on big PVC clothes.

我要做巨大的頭髮，巨大的化妝 在大的PVC衣服。

The first step is actually shaving the sides of my head, which I've already done.

第一步其實是剃頭的兩側，我已經剃了。

所以沒有底漆，一切都會滑落。

I guess I would describe my style as golf inspired.

我想我會把我的風格描述為高爾夫靈感。

It's foolish, inspired on its high fashion, pretty much only wear black, So I developed my style.

這是愚蠢的，靈感來自於它的高級時裝，幾乎只穿黑色，所以我發展了我的風格。

E guess for the last 10 years has been like a very slow evolution, which has just been growing ever since.

E想在過去的10年裡，就像一個非常緩慢的演化過程，從那以後就一直在成長。

I guess 12 was The age went like my parents stop dressing me.

我想12歲就像我父母停止給我穿衣服一樣。

It was just like wearing black were in bondage.

And then it just kind of escalated When I moved to London and I met more colorful creatures That kind of inspired me to go like one step forever, and I think growing and kind of confidence as well.

然後它只是一種升級 當我搬到倫敦，我遇到了更多的豐富多彩的生物 這是一種啟發我去像一步永遠， 我認為成長和那種信心也。

Um, every every person year, I kind of become like a bigger person.

嗯，每每一個人年，我有點變得像一個更大的人。

I do bigger looks kind of feel more within myself to be able to do that.

我做大一點的樣子種感覺自己的內心更能夠做到這一點。

對不起，這是一個非常保守的城市。

I remember there was one moment around 16 and I was wearing blue jeans on the white hoodie when I was just like, running to the shops and I caught my reflection in the mirror and I was so horrified.

我記得有一個時刻16歲左右，我穿著藍色牛仔褲的白色連帽衫，當我只是喜歡，跑到商店，我看到我在鏡子裡的倒影，我很害怕。

Why sor that I vowed toe like, never wear something like that again, which is interesting because it was mawr.

為什麼我發誓，再也不穿這樣的東西，這很有趣，因為它是毛。

I was aware of what I didn't want to be than what I wanted to be.

我知道我不想成為什麼，而不是我想成為什麼。

Put it on a sponge, which is damn because the sponges already done it actually stops their foundations.

把它放在海綿上，這是該死的，因為海綿已經做了它實際上停止他們的基礎。

Soaking into the sponge kind of creates like a softer finish with, like, less inconsistencies, less streaks.

浸泡在海綿中，會產生更柔和的效果，少了不一致，少了條紋。

There was really, like no one else around me in my hometown.

在我的家鄉，我身邊真的是，像沒有人一樣。

I could really look up to or take any kind of like there was no tribe there at all.

我真的可以仰望或採取任何一種像那裡根本沒有部落。

And it was only through being online and through, like Facebook and Instagram.

而且只有通過在線和通過，比如Facebook和Instagram。

Could I actually see that they were like other people that kind of just like living their lives openly and freely they would seem to be based in London.

其實我能不能看出來，他們和其他的人一樣，那種只是喜歡公開自由地生活他們似乎會以倫敦為基地。

I was always attracted to like Goths and punks.

我總是被喜歡的哥特人和小混混所吸引。

I was inspired by the first wave of golfs in, like the late seventies early eighties people like Powerhouse Susie Virgin Prudence the kind of fluidity in expression, which was regardless of gender.

我的靈感來自於高爾夫的第一波浪潮，比如70年代末80年代初的人，比如Powerhouse Susie Virgin Prudence，那種不分性別的流暢表達。

There was like shaved heads, long hair makeup, any conversations about gender or sexuality.

有像剃光頭，長髮妝，任何關於性別或性的對話。

I kind of like, aspired to be there in a way which is to be offer but also be very sexual about it, because the world the world is so like used to binaries, which isn't just male or female or top and bottom or Southern Dom etcetera because we're always told that like opposites attract but not really be anything but still be attractive has always been the goal.

我有點喜歡，渴望在那裡的方式，這是提供，但也是非常性的，因為世界的世界是如此的喜歡習慣於二進制，這不只是男性或女性或頂部和底部或南方大教堂等等，因為我們總是被告知，像對立面吸引，但不是真的是什麼，但仍然是有吸引力的一直是目標。

It za difficult moment because you're trying to, like, make sense off the world, particularly yourself.

這是很困難的時刻，因為你試圖，喜歡，使意義上的世界，特別是你自己。

I saw style as a way to kind of, in a way ignore these questions on just start developing an identity then I use a concealer thio like cover some like gremlin things.

我認為風格是一種方式，在某種程度上忽略這些問題上剛開始發展的身份，然後我用遮瑕膏潮像覆蓋一些像小精靈的東西。

When I first came to London, there was really desperate to find these people that I had seen images off on lying in magazines, looking that I was a little bit disappointed because when you typing off, you might come up with, like, runway images of Alexander McQueen.

當我第一次來倫敦的時候，我真的很想找到這些人，我看到了躺在雜誌上的影像，我有點失望，因為當你打字的時候，你可能會出現亞歷山大-麥昆的T臺影像。

Or do your a stunning designs and models like Draped Muse, exquisite fabrics.

或者做你的一個令人驚歎的設計和模型，如懸垂的繆斯，精緻的面料。

And actually, that was kind of like a disconnect because that wasn't in the clubs.

而實際上，這有點像隔閡，因為那不是在俱樂部。

那不是我在任何地方都能看到的人。

我的Electra工作，我找到了一些部落。

I found some some of my chosen family, I guess so The next step is I draw a kind of leaves our line of where I want my eye make up to be.

我發現了一些我選擇的一些家庭，我想所以下一步是我畫一種葉子我們的線，我想我的眼睛化妝的地方。

It's so much more fun and rewarding to get dressed up and go hang out with people.

打扮得漂漂亮亮的，去和大家一起玩耍，多有意思，多有收穫。

It's good to be seen, you know, but seeing amongst people do you want to be seen with.

被人看到是好事，你知道的，但是在人中看到你想被人看到嗎。

So that kind of inspired me Thio create my own club, which is brave.

所以，那種啟發我Thio創建自己的俱樂部，這是勇敢的。

I wanted Thio show off the work of my friends.

I like creators to come on Deal inspired to me.

我喜歡創客來上交易對我的啟發。

Other people have DJs and other performers it had hosts.

別人有DJ等表演者它有主持人。

Also because of, like the liberal environments that exists and have people just being themselves and be uncomfortable kind of makes me comfortable.

也是因為，像自由環境的存在，有人們只是做自己，不舒服的那種讓我很舒服。

Thio exist online way No, like what will get us band and what won't that somehow like we still manage the light slip through the cracks there.

Thio存在網上的方式不，像什麼會讓我們帶什麼不會，以某種方式像我們仍然管理的光滑過裂縫有。

Senses are work from, like the active cannon.

It's a sad moment for where we are in, like humanity.

這是一個悲哀的時刻，我們所處的位置，就像人類一樣。

I guess that we've handed the keys toe Zuckerberg and these awful people.

我想，我們已經把鑰匙交給了扎克伯格和這些可怕的人。

I'm just gonna start smoking this album, blending it so it's a bit softer.

我只是要開始抽這張專輯，混合它，讓它更柔和一些。

現在用其他的顏色來複習這個。

Documentation, I think, is vital in these club environments because it liberates.

我認為，在這些俱樂部的環境中，文件是至關重要的，因為它可以解放。

I think that liberation is important because at the moment it's for me.

我覺得解放很重要，因為目前對我來說。

It's obviously very centered around London to not share any images, to not have any documentation.

不分享任何影像，沒有任何文件，顯然是非常圍繞倫敦的。

That is only for like the few and not for the many.

那只是針對喜歡的少數人，而不是針對很多人。

The collaboration that I do with my partner Salvia projects kind of manifested its way in different directions.

我和我的合作伙伴Salvia項目的合作，在不同的方向上體現了它的方式。

So we did a VR project, that collaborator Con organ near we free the scandal bodies and then adjusted thumb through a slightly more alien like so it was very much designing.

所以我們做了一個VR項目，那個合作者康機關附近我們把醜聞體解放出來，然後通過稍微調整拇指像所以很設計。

For Avatar, the way we put ourselves across online is an avatar in itself, because it's like a manipulation or a characterization of who we think we are.

對於阿凡達來說，我們在網上把自己表現出來的方式本身就是一個阿凡達，因為它就像我們認為自己是誰的一種操縱或者說是一種性格。

OK, now I'm just gonna blend the black of tiny bit into the brown.

好了，現在我只需要把黑色的一小部分融合到棕色中去。

Now I sharpen the edges with my foundation.

Yes, so the foundation cuts through the blending and creates this very straight line on now, ever sponge of a straight edge.

是的，所以粉底切開混合，在現在，永遠海綿的直邊上創造出這種很直的線條。

I'm just gonna started about I have, like, a degree of responsibility what I've been doing.

我只是要開始 我有一樣，一定程度的責任 我一直在做什麼。

When I was growing up, there wasn't really any kind of like role models or anyone else saying It's okay not to, like, pick, agenda or pick a sexuality, their figures like Pete Burns or Boy George, which were incredible.

當我成長的時候，沒有真正的那種 像榜樣或任何人說 這沒關係，喜歡，選擇，議程或選擇一個性， 他們的數字像皮特伯恩斯或男孩喬治， 這是令人難以置信的。

But the conversation was never really there.

但談話的內容從來沒有真正的存在過。

Maybe they possibly started it in their own way.

也許他們可能以自己的方式開始。

There is a bit of sadness because there is, like, intergenerational conflict.

有一點悲傷，因為有，代際衝突。

Even though I feel like they led the way in kind of being themselves one by one, they will come out with kind of like, transfer big terms.

即使我覺得他們帶頭做自己的那種一個一個的，他們會出那種像，轉會大條款。

You know, I'm optimistic that the next generation is going to grow up in a time where things are a lot easier on board.

你知道，我很樂觀地認為，下一代會在一個船上事情容易得多的時代成長起來。

The kind of language and discourse is already out there.

Okay, now I finished my eye, so I'm gonna dio my contour and now which is on my cheeks on my jaw like squeeze the brush head So it's kind of flat goes loosely from the top of my ear in the direction of May that then I'm gonna do my lips.

好了，現在我完成了我的眼睛，所以我要去dio我的輪廓，現在這是在我的臉頰上，我的下巴，像擠壓刷頭，所以它是一種平坦的去鬆散地從我的耳朵頂部在五月的方向，然後我要做我的嘴脣。

I've gone for brown because matches my eye.

我選擇了棕色，因為和我的眼睛很配。

Okay, so my face is done and I'm going to start doing layer.

好了，我的臉已經做好了，我要開始做層了。

It's a long process that takes around two hours.

這是一個漫長的過程，需要兩個小時左右。

I'm only gonna be showing you a small part of it.

But it's the same process just repeated on Go in in to the root, as's faras possible.

但這也是同樣的過程，只是在Go上重複在根部，儘可能的。

I squeeze it and I hold it for around 15 seconds.

I definitely had, like, a peak hair moment, which is where I was doing.

我肯定有，像，高峰發的時刻，這是我在做。

I would be 8 ft tall with shoes and hair.

我的身高會有8英尺，穿上鞋子和頭髮。

I can't really do that anymore, because Hairspray formulas have changed that.

我真的不能再這麼做了，因為髮膠的配方已經改變了這一點。

Like they're no longer glue like, so they can't really hold huge, huge styles, which is unfortunate.

就像他們不再像膠水一樣，所以他們不能真正保持巨大的，巨大的風格，這是不幸的。

I don't do the very end that's meant to be, like non crimped.

我不做非常的的結束是為了，像非捲曲的。

Thio spray on try and get the roots as much as possible.