Name: 白雪公主和王后的禮服專家的時尚檢查 - VOGUE JAPAN| VOGUE JAPAN (白雪姫＆女王のドレスを専門家がファッションチェック。| VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2020-09-13T19:15:34.000Z
Duration: 12 min 14 s

You know them from Snow White and the Seven dwarves.

你從《白雪公主和七個小矮人》中認識他們的。

You know this outfit and this one, But are they accurate?

你知道這套衣服和這套衣服，但它們準確嗎？

我們得到了這個時尚歷史學家。

Hi, I'm Rice Britannia and I'm a fashion historian to walk us through what the movie got right and what they got wrong about these looks.

嗨，我是大米布里塔尼亞，我是一個時尚歷史學家，來帶我們瞭解一下電影對這些造型的正確和錯誤。

There are little touches of German culture throughout Snow White, including these tankers that are seen in the dwarves home.

整個《白雪公主》中都有德國文化的小點綴，包括這些在小矮人家裡看到的坦克車。

Why 16th century storybook at the beginning of the film closely matches manuscript from the 16th century.

為什麼電影開頭的16世紀故事書與16世紀的手稿非常吻合。

Let's start Snow White's iconic blue and yellow dress right off the bat.

先從白雪公主標誌性的藍黃裙開始說起吧。

We can tell that this is a 19 thirties interpretation of the past.

我們可以看出，這是對過去三十年代的解釋。

Snow White and The Seven Dwarfs was released in 1937 and was the first animated feature length film, so it was really based on real people and real garments.

白雪公主與七個小矮人》上映於1937年，是第一部動畫長片，所以它真的是根據真實的人和真實的服裝改編的。

Take a look at the model for Snow White, so Snow White's face is really based on 1930 starlets like Heddy Lamar with the dark hair that's short and quashed the big eyes, small lips and the arched eyebrows.

看看白雪公主的模特，所以白雪公主的臉型真的是以1930年的女明星為藍本，比如海蒂-拉瑪，黑髮短髮，誇張的大眼睛、小嘴脣和彎彎的眉毛。

Let's draw snow white stress from the undergarments out.

讓我們把雪白的壓力從內衣中引出來。

So the primary undergarment was called the smoke, and it was the precursor to the Shami's, which we've talked about before.

所以初級的內衣叫煙，它就是我們之前說過的沙彌的前身。

The smoke is basically a very long shirt with very long full sleeves, and nothing was worn underneath.

煙基本上是一件很長的襯衫，袖子很長很全，下面什麼都沒穿。

Actually, next up, stockings looks like they forgot the stockings again.

其實，接下來，絲襪看來他們又忘記了絲襪。

For hundreds of years, women wore stockings, and this time period was no different.

幾百年來，女人都是穿絲襪的，這個時期也不例外。

This is an earlier iteration of the corset called stays or pair of bodies.

這是較早的胸衣的迭代，稱為stays或pair of bodies。

Because there aren't very many surviving garments.

Ah, lot of garments from this time period don't survive because it was hundreds of years ago and these garments disintegrated Over time, we really have to turn to paintings to know what 16th century garments looked like.

啊，這個時期的很多服裝都沒有存活下來，因為那是幾百年前的事了，這些服裝都解體了。 隨著時間的推移，我們真的要從繪畫中才能知道16世紀的服裝是什麼樣子。

The stays were designed to mold the torso into the fashionable cylindrical shape and to flatten and raise the bus line so you can see that there's this channel that runs down the center of the stays and into that you would insert what was called a busk, which is a long, straight piece of either whale bone or metal or wood that was meant to keep that front part really, really straight.

支架的設計是為了將軀幹塑造成時髦的圓柱形，並使母線變平、變高，所以你可以看到，有一條通道從支架的中心穿過，你會把所謂的 "母線 "插入其中，這是一塊又長又直的鯨魚骨、金屬或木頭，目的是讓前部保持非常非常直。

So even though the bucks weren't seen and kind of privately worn on the inside of your garment, they often had little private messages engraved on them.

所以，雖然這塊錢是看不到的，也算是私自戴在衣服裡面，但上面往往刻著一些私人的小資訊。

The next layer, the farthingale, was the foundation garment worn on the lower half of the body to create the shape of the skirt.

下一層，即遠行衣，是穿在下半身的基礎服裝，以形成裙子的形狀。

The specific example is called the Spanish Farthingale, and it really is a skirt that stiffened with concentric rings that create that triangular shape.

具體的例子叫做西班牙法丁格爾，它真的是一條用同心圓來僵化的裙子，形成那種三角形的形狀。

Snow white would have been wearing a curdle, which was the precursor to the petty coat and this Haddon attached bodice.

白雪公主應該是穿了一件捲曲的衣服，這是小資衣和這件哈登附身衣的前身。

And now the dress you can see with snow white stress that it almost looks like two pieces because they're different colored bodice and skirt.

而現在的衣服你可以看到雪白的壓力，它幾乎看起來像兩件，因為他們是不同顏色的胸衣和裙子。

In the 16th century, these garments were one piece with the bodies attached to the skirt, usually in matching colors.

在16世紀，這些服裝是一體的，身體與裙子相連，通常是配色的。

This is where over that farthingale, so there's no way she would have been like lifting up her skirt in the way that she doesn't movie blowing skirt that has a lot of movement was kind of reminiscent of the Ginger Rogers type skirts of the 19 thirties.

這是在哪裡超過那個遠景，所以沒有辦法，她會一直像抬起她的裙子的方式，她不電影吹裙子，有很多的運動是一種讓人想起了金吉婭羅傑斯類型的裙子的1930年代。

If we look closely, we see that Snow White actually has this line running down the front of her bodice, and I think that's interesting because Italian and German dresses usually laced up the front, so that could be a hint towards that.

如果我們仔細觀察，就會發現白雪公主的胸前居然有這條線，我覺得這很有意思，因為意大利和德國的裙子通常都是前面有繫帶的，所以這可能是一種暗示。

There's actually a really interesting overlap here because puffy sleeves were pretty fashionable in both the 19 thirties and the 16th century.

其實這裡有一個非常有趣的重疊，因為在1930年代和16世紀，蓬鬆的袖子都是非常流行的。

Sleeves were detachable and tied onto the dress.

袖子是可拆卸的，系在衣服上。

One way that these sleeves were decorated was through either slashing or painting.

這些袖子的裝飾方式之一是通過割裂或繪畫。

At the top of the sleeve, we can see an example of painting strips of fabric that were sown around the sleeve, revealing the smoke underneath.

在袖子的頂端，我們可以看到一個例子，就是在袖子周圍播撒佈條的畫條，露出下面的煙霧。

讓我們一起去靠近雪白的袖子。

Here you can see there's contrast ing fabric, and it looks like it could be painting with those strips that reveal the other fabric underneath.

在這裡你可以看到有對比ing的布料，看起來可能是用那些條子畫出來的，露出下面的其他布料。

Another method of doing this is called slashing to making small slits in the fabric and then pulling pieces of the smoke through, creating little puffs.

另一種方法叫斜切，就是在布料上開個小口子，然後把煙片拉過去，形成小口子。

The goal was really to show off the fabric underneath.

目的其實是為了展示下面的布料。

Textiles were incredibly valuable during this time period, so if you had it, you wanted to show it off as a way to display your wealth.

在這個時期，紡織品是非常珍貴的，所以如果你擁有它，你就想把它展示出來，以此來顯示你的財富。

You can see Snow White's collar here, but it would probably look a little more like this one here.

你可以在這裡看到白雪公主的項圈，但它可能會看起來更像這裡的這個。

She could have been wearing what was called a part lit, which is a rectangular piece of cloth that's tucked into the neckline of the dress, kind of to fill it in over that could be worn a rough, which was a unisex accessory.

她可能穿的是所謂的part lit，這是一塊長方形的布，塞進衣服的領口，算是把它填滿了，在那上面可以穿一個粗糙的，這是一箇中性的配件。

The rough was basically a piece of stiffened or starched linen that was often trimmed with lace and then pleaded to create that dimensional shape.

粗布基本上是一塊僵硬的或帶星狀的亞麻布，通常用花邊修飾，然後褶皺，以創造那種立體的形狀。

And then the shoes for this looks Snow White is wearing these cute little pumps with bows on them, and these air straight out of the 19 thirties.

然後這個造型的鞋子 白雪公主穿的是帶蝴蝶結的可愛小鞋，這些鞋的氣質直接來自30年代。

The shape of the hell really says 19 thirties to me, and the little bows look like they could be shoe clips, which were very fashionable at the time.

地獄的形狀對我來說真的很像三十年代，小蝴蝶結看起來可能是鞋夾，這在當時是非常時尚的。

Not many shoes survived from this time period, and if we're really looking at portraiture.

這個時期的鞋子存活下來的不多，如果我們真的要看肖像畫。

You don't really see shoes because the skirts were so long moving on to the hair.

你看不到鞋子，因為裙子太長了，繼續看頭髮。

Snow White's hair is probably the most 19 thirties aspect of her look because it's short and curly, and she has this cute little bow.

白雪公主的頭髮可能是她的造型中最1930年代的一面，因為她的頭髮又短又卷，還有這個可愛的小蝴蝶結。

Disney really wanted these characters to look like movie stars, because that's what the audience is.

迪士尼真的希望這些角色看起來像電影明星，因為這才是觀眾。

In the 16th century, most of your hair would actually be covered by a hood.

在16世紀，你的大部分頭髮其實都會被罩子遮住。

This particular example is called a French hood.

這個特殊的例子叫做法式油煙機。

The French hood is a small headpiece made on a stiffened frame with a long veil attached to it.

法式頭巾是在硬朗的框架上製作的小頭飾，上面連著長長的面紗。

So here's what Snow White's dress would have looked like compared to the original Disney look.

那麼下面就是白雪公主的裙子和迪士尼原版造型的對比。

Let's move on to the Evil Queen right off the bat.

I can see that she is a combination of a 19 thirties movie star, but dressed in medieval style.

我看得出她是三十年代電影明星的結合體，但穿的是中世紀風格。

Here you can really see how closely she resembles Joan Crawford, especially in the arched eyebrows, long lashes and the very distinctively shaped lips.

在這裡，你真的可以看到她和瓊-克勞馥有多麼的相似，尤其是弧形的眉毛、長長的睫毛和形狀非常獨特的嘴脣。

One of my favorite details is that we see the queen's hands as she's mixing the potion and her manicure is actually straight out of 1937 so this isn't accurate, either.

我最喜歡的一個細節是，我們看到女王在調配藥水時的手，她的美甲其實是直接從1937年開始的，所以這個也不準確。

Now we're going to draw every layer of the queen stress first up the underwear, her undergarments or no different.

現在我們要把女王壓力的每一層都畫出來先上內衣，她的內衣還是沒有區別的。

She would also be wearing a smock and stockings and then the foundation garments.

她還會穿著罩衫和絲襪，然後再穿上基礎服裝。

She would also be wearing stays and a curdle, and then the next layer.

她還會穿戴停留和凝結，然後再穿戴下一層。

We start to get a bit of a difference with the farthingale, because on top of the farthingale, we're going to add a bum role.

我們開始和遠行者有點區別，因為在遠行者的基礎上，我們要增加一個流浪漢的角色。

A bum role is kind of a crescent shaped, padded piece of fabric that is tied around the waist and is used to soften the hip line.

臀部的作用是一種月牙形的墊布，系在腰間，用來柔化臀部線條。

We can see in this portrait of Queen Elizabeth that the top of her skirt isn't, ah, hard triangle, but more of a soft slope.

我們在伊麗莎白女王的這幅畫像中可以看到，她的裙頂並不是，啊，硬三角，而是更多的是一個軟坡。

And that's because of the added bum role and then the beginning of the dress.

而這是因為增加了屁股的作用，然後開始穿衣服。

On top of that should have an under skirt, which featured a four part and a four.

在這上面應該有一個下裙，它的特點是四分和四。

Part is a triangular piece of decorative fabric that showed with an open front gown and then the dress.

部分是一塊三角形的裝飾布，用敞開的前袍展示，然後再穿上裙子。

She is the queen, so she'd be wearing a gown made out of a rich velvet or an ostentatious metallic lee brocaded fabric broke.

她是女王，所以她會穿著用富麗堂皇的天鵝絨或華麗的金屬利錦面料做的禮服破。

Aiding is the incorporation of metallic threads into fabric, making them shiny and luxurious.

輔助是將金屬線融入到面料中，使其變得光亮、奢華。

There were actually laws that dictated what kind of fabrics could be worn by which people and these were called sanctuary laws.

其實有法律規定哪些人可以穿什麼樣的布料，這些被稱為避難法。

Not only were these fabrics expensive, but they also just weren't available to people who weren't royalty and then the sleeves.

這些面料不僅價格昂貴，而且也只是不是皇室成員的人不能用，然後是袖子。

This particular style of sleeve was modular, so there was the four sleeve on the bottom, the upper sleeve and then the over sleeve.

這種特殊樣式的套筒是模塊化的，所以下面有四個套筒，上面有上套筒，然後是過套筒。

We can see that the queen has thes long dramatic sleeves, but those really look more like medieval styles.

我們可以看到王后有長長的戲劇性的袖子，但那些真的看起來更像中世紀的風格。

In the 16th century, similar silhouettes existed, and they looked more like this.

在16世紀，類似的剪影也是存在的，它們看起來更像這樣。

We see that her over sleeves are lined with a very sumptuous fabric so that when they're turned back there very prominently on display and then the collar.

我們看到她的套袖是用非常奢華的面料襯托的，所以當他們轉回來的時候，非常突出的展示在那裡，然後是領子。

Perhaps the most iconic feature of the queen's costume is her standing collar, but it would actually look more like this one, so this type of color was called a Medici color, and it really stood straight up at the back and was open in the front.

女王的服裝最經典的特點可能就是她的立領了，但其實看起來會更像這個，所以這種顏色被稱為美第奇色，真的是後面直挺挺的，前面是敞開的。

We call it this because it was introduced in the 16th century by Marie de Medici.

我們之所以這樣稱呼它，是因為它是16世紀由瑪麗-德-美第奇引進的。

As we can see in this portrait, the Medici family was very influential, especially in fashion.

從這幅畫像中我們可以看出，美第奇家族的影響力非常大，尤其是在時尚方面。

We see that the queen is wearing a long cape that's trimmed with white fur, but these were really only worn by monarchs for coronation ceremonies and other court occasions.

我們看到，女王穿著一件長長的披風，披風上鑲著白色的毛皮，但這些其實只是君主在加冕儀式和其他宮廷場合才會穿的。

I think the Cape is really used here more to establish her character and make her look more villainy.

我覺得海角在這裡真的更多的是用來確立她的性格，讓她看起來更有反派的感覺。

You can see the queen descending the stairs here with her cape dramatically flowing behind her.

你可以看到女王在這裡下樓，她的披風在她身後戲劇性地流動著。

But that probably wouldn't have been possible with such heavy materials like velvet lined with fur and then her shoes.

但這大概不可能用天鵝絨這樣厚重的材料襯上毛皮，然後她的鞋子。

Right here we can see a glimpse of her shoes, and they look like 19 thirties style orange pumps.

在這裡，我們可以看到她的鞋子一瞥，他們看起來像1930年代風格的橙色鞋。

We actually don't see the queen's hair in the movie because she wears a black head covering that completely in cases her head and neck.

其實我們在電影中看不到女王的頭髮，因為她戴著一個黑色的頭套，完全是在她的頭部和脖子的情況下。

This type of head covering is seen in medieval styles, not in 16th century styles.

這種頭套見於中世紀風格，而非16世紀風格。

Royal Portrait show different hairstyles in this period, but again, most of the hair would be covered by a hood.

皇家肖像》展示了這一時期不同的髮型，但同樣，大部分頭髮會被頭巾遮住。

In this portrait, we see a variation on the French hood with a flat top instead of the curved one.

在這幅畫像中，我們看到了法式風帽的變化，用平頂代替了弧形。

Finally, the crown, the black head covering and the crown that we see on The Queen is actually really similar to a costume scene in a movie called She, which came out just two years before so that crown is more of a contemporary costume than a historically accurate piece.

最後，我們在《女王》上看到的王冠，黑色的頭套和王冠，其實和前兩年剛上映的一部電影《她》中的服裝場景真的很相似，所以那個王冠與其說是歷史上準確的作品，不如說是當代的服裝。

Her crown would actually be a lot shorter with inset jewels.

她的王冠如果鑲上珠寶，其實會短很多。