through a friend I was invited to a party with lots of local business owners,

通過朋友邀請我參加了一個有很多當地企業主參加的聚會。

and I felt pretty out of my depth.

我覺得很出乎我的意料。

I was in my 20s at the time, and everyone there was at least 2 or 3 times my age.

當時我才20多歲，那裡的人至少是我年齡的2、3倍。

However, there was one guy who I struck up a conversation with who was in his early 30s,

不過，有一個人我和他搭上了話，他30歲出頭。

a really friendly, unassuming guy who had lived overseas for a short time,

一個真正友好的，樸實無華的傢伙，曾在海外生活過一段時間。

in a mysterious land known only as Canada.

在一個神祕的土地上，只有加拿大知道。

And when I asked him what it was that he did,

而當我問他，他做的是什麼。

it turned out he was the president and owner

原來他是社長兼老闆

of one of the largest sushi businesses in all of north Japan.

北日本最大的壽司店之一。

His name was Satoshi Ueno, and today, after many years of talking about it,

他的名字叫上野聰，而今天，經過多年的談論。

we're finally gonna go and film inside one of his restaurants

我們終於要去拍他的一家餐廳了。

and see and hear what it's like to own a sushi business in Japan.

並看到和聽到在日本擁有壽司生意的感覺。

With 30 restaurants across Japan and 800 employees,

在日本各地擁有30家餐廳，800名員工。

Satoshi Ueno has the daunting task of running his sushi empire,

上野聰肩負著經營壽司帝國的艱鉅任務。

passed onto him by his father just 7 years ago.

7年前，他的父親傳給他。

I've come to hear his story today inside Ueno-san's flagship luxury restaurant, Sushimasa.

今天我就來聽聽他的故事，在上野先生的旗艦豪華餐廳 "棲霞 "內。

Together we'll witness every aspect to running the business,

我們將一起見證經營企業的方方面面。

from sourcing the finest seafood at an intense market auction,

從激烈的市場拍賣會上採購最好的海鮮。

[fast-paced bidding in Japanese]

[日語快節奏競價]

to spending an afternoon with the charismatic and highly-skilled head chef of the restaurant,

到與魅力十足、技藝高超的餐廳總廚共度一下午。

Yuji Yoshikawa,

吉川雄二。

who will also share the one thing never to do during your meal.

誰也會分享在你吃飯時千萬不要做的一件事。

Y'know what, hopefully by the end of this week

你知道嗎，希望在這周結束之前

I'll know everything I need to to set up my own sushi restaurant in London.

我知道在倫敦開一家自己的壽司店所需要的一切。

Filming inside a friend's restaurant?

在朋友的餐廳裡拍戲？

More like industrial espionage.

更像是工業間諜。

While I have been lucky to dine at Ueno-san'srestaurants many times before,

雖然我曾多次有幸在上野先生的餐廳用餐。

I'll admit, I've never set foot in his most high-end restaurant Sushimasa,

我承認，我從來沒有踏足過他最高級，上等的餐廳棲霞。

which is inconspicuously hidden off a bustling street in downtown Sendai.

隱匿在仙台市中心繁華的街道上，不顯眼。

Ascending the grand staircase, I find Ueno-san patiently waiting for me at the entrance.

登上大樓梯，我發現上野先生在門口耐心地等著我。

- Welcome! - Hello.

- 歡迎光臨！- 你好啊

- Hi, welcome! - Hello!

- 嗨，歡迎！- 你好！

Long time no see!

好久不見

Good to see you.

很高興見到你

- Oh, thank you very much. - Thank you so much for giving me the time today.

- 哦，非常感謝你。- 非常感謝你今天給我的時間。

We haven't seen each other in maybe... 3 years?

我們大概有... 3年沒見了吧？三年了？

- Yeah. - 3 years.

- 是的 3年了

How do I look?

我看起來怎麼樣？

- Muscle. - It's- It's a little bit...

- 肌肉。- 這是 - 這是一個有點... ...

Muscle! That's what it is.

肌肉！這就是它。

Let's go.

我們走吧

Wow.

哇哦

It's so, kind of... warm and vibrant.

它是如此，有點... 溫暖和充滿活力。

How many people can you have in the counter?

櫃檯裡能有多少人？

- 12.

- 12.

- About 12 people? - Yeah, 12 people.

- 大約12個人？- 對，12個人

- And then you've got two rooms - private rooms - here. - Yes.

- 然後你有兩個房間 -- 私人房間 -- 在這裡。- 是的。

I feel like I've stumbled into an art gallery, let alone a restaurant.

我感覺就像跌進了一個藝術館，更不用說餐廳了。

Ueno-san has carefully selected suzuri calligraphy and artwork,

上野先生精心挑選了蘇作書法和美術作品。

and immaculate wooden finishings, with an interior that feels contemporary, yet steeped in tradition.

和完美無瑕的木質飾面，內部裝修既現代又有傳統的感覺。

When it comes to the interior of a sushi restaurant,

說到壽司店的內部裝修。

what's the most important things to look for?

最重要的是要注意什麼？

What's the most important thing when you're creating it?

創作時最重要的是什麼？

- The counter is important.

- 櫃檯很重要。

- The counter? - Yeah.

- 櫃檯？- 對啊

This is nice.

這是很好的。

Often at sushi restaurants, the counter is very big and there's a lot of glass.

通常在壽司店，櫃檯非常大，而且有很多玻璃。

Whereas here, the sushi is really beautifully presented and integrated within the counter on the top.

而在這裡，壽司的擺放真的很精美，整合在上面的櫃檯內。

And it's cold. This.

而且很冷。這個

Oh, that's cold. Wow!

哦，那是冷的。哇！

And what about lighting?

那燈光呢？

The lighting is so good.

燈光太好。

There's so many different lights highlighting the fish, the chef...

有這麼多不同的燈光突出魚，廚師... ...

- Yeah. This is important too.

- 是啊，這也很重要。這也很重要。

Meanwhile, tucked away on the third floor are extra special hidden rooms

同時，藏在三樓的還有特別的隱蔽房間。

for guests looking to dine in private.

為希望私下用餐的客人提供服務。

Whoa.

哇。

What kind of customers use these kind of private rooms?

什麼樣的客戶會使用這種包廂？

Company orders, and also families.

公司訂單，也是家庭。

- Right. - Yeah.

- 好吧，我知道了- 是的，是的

What do you prefer out of the counter and the private room?

櫃檯和包廂，你更喜歡哪個？

- Sushi at the counter is better.

- 櫃檯的壽司更好。

Good for a family, maybe good for a date?

適合一家人，也許適合約會？

- Yeah. - Hmm, good for a date.

- 是的 嗯，很適合約會。

But yeah, I think the counter, for me, is probably better.

但是是的，我覺得櫃檯，對我來說，可能更好。

Just because you can watch the chef.

只是因為你可以看廚師。

We've had a great tour, Ueno-san.

上野先生，我們的旅行很愉快。

Thank you for the tour of the restaurant.

謝謝你對餐廳的參觀。

I'm very eager to try something.

我很想嘗試一下。

Shall we eat some sushi? Shall we dive in?

我們吃點壽司吧？我們要不要潛水？

Uhhhh, not yet...

呃，還沒有...

- Not yet? - Not yet.

- 還沒有嗎？- 還沒有

First!

首先！

The seafood market.

海鮮市場。

- Seafood market? - Yeah.

- 海鮮市場？- 對啊

You should look.

你應該看看。

Ahh, right. Where you get the fish from. Okay.

啊，對。你從哪裡得到的魚。好吧，我知道了

Should we go now?

我們現在就走嗎？

Noo... Tomorrow morning.

不...明天早上。

Tomorrow morning... What time?

明天早上...什麼時候？

5:30.

5:30.

[dunnnnn]

[薄薄的]

A.M.

A.M.

Auughh...!

啊...

There's nothing quite as intense as coming into a Japanese fish market at 4a.m. in the morning.

沒有什麼比凌晨4點來到日本魚市更緊張的了。

When everything's kicking off and everyone's buying things and auctions are happening...

當一切都開始了，每個人都在買東西，拍賣會也開始了... ...

It's... It's so intense.

它是...它是如此激烈。

It's a great way to wake up, though.

不過，這也是一種很好的起床方式。

I'll say that much.

我就說這麼多。

With 30 restaurants to supply, Ueno-san has an army of buyers around the market,

上野先生有30家餐廳的供應，市場周圍有一支買手大軍。

though he still visits weekly to peruse what's on offer.

雖然他每週都會去瀏覽一下這裡的產品。

So arguably the busiest part of the market - the most prized fish, of course, is tuna.

所以可以說是市場上最繁忙的部分--最珍貴的魚，當然是金槍魚。

The only place I've seen more tuna would've been Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo,

我見過的金槍魚比較多的地方，應該只有東京的築地魚市了。

but there's about 100 here, each one costing a staggering amount of money.

但這裡大約有100個，每個人的成本都是驚人的。

A single tuna typically sells for around $10,000.

一條金槍魚的售價一般在1萬元左右。

And to make sure it's money well-spent, before the morning auctions kick off,

而為了確保錢花得值，在上午的拍賣會開始前。

buyers carefully select their tuna by examining a section of the tail.

買家通過檢查金槍魚尾巴的一部分來仔細挑選。

[intense & fast-paced Japanese auctioning]

緊張而快節奏的日本拍賣]

With one of Ueno-san's top buyers nestled at the back placing the winning bid on their tuna,

隨著窩在後面的上野先生的一位頂級買家對他們的金槍魚下了中標價。

it's promptly wheeled off across the market

銷聲匿跡

to be cut and prepared for distribution to the restaurants.

要切開，準備分發給餐館。

A single 500lb tuna can make 10,000 servings,

一條500磅的金槍魚可以做10000份。

and naturally, the best cuts today will be enjoyed by the lucky customers at restaurant Sushimasa.

自然，今天最好的切割將由幸運的顧客在餐廳Sushimasa享受。

Which is me.

這就是我。

Very fresh!

很新鮮！

[laughter]

[笑聲]

His father may have been ridiculed back in those early days,

他的父親早年可能被人嘲笑過。

but his fortunes couldn't be any more different today as one of the biggest buyers in the market.

但作為市場上最大的買家之一，他今天的命運也不會有什麼不同。

This morning alone, Ueno-san has spent $20,000 on fish for his chain of restaurants.

僅今天上午，上野先生就為自己的連鎖餐廳花了2萬元買魚。

Obviously, the fish market is a very exciting, very intense, crazy place.

顯然，魚市是一個非常刺激、非常激烈、非常瘋狂的地方。

How do you feel when you come down here, Ueno-san?

上野先生，你來這裡的感覺如何？

You've been coming here many years now.

你已經來這裡很多年了。

How do you feel when you walk amongst the places and speak to everyone?

當你走在這些地方中間，和大家說話的時候，你有什麼感覺？

How many people do you know in the market?

你在市場上認識多少人？

When we were walking through earlier, everybody was saying hello.

剛才我們走過的時候，大家都在打招呼。

That's a lot of people.

那是很多人。

Let's go to sushi. Sushi!

我們去吃壽司吧壽司！

Let's do it!

來吧！

Let's go!

我們走吧！

So hungry...

好餓...

Even with the finest, freshest ingredients from the local market,

即使是用當地市場上最優質、最新鮮的食材。

it'd all be completely wasted without a skilled chef.

如果沒有一個熟練的廚師，這一切都會完全浪費。

And fortunately, Ueno-san's right-hand man and head chef Yuji Yoshikawa

而幸運的是，上野先生的得力助手、廚師長吉川雄二。

has dedicated over half his lifetime to honing his craft and preparing sushi for the family business.

他半生致力於磨練手藝，為家族企業準備壽司。

With all the skill and craftsmanship that's gone into preparing the immaculate plate of sushi,

用所有的技術和工藝來準備這盤完美無缺的壽司。

from a customer perspective,

從客戶的角度來看。

it can be a little bit intimidating not to screw things up at the final hurdle.

在最後關頭不把事情搞砸是有點嚇人的。

Thankfully, though, according to Yoshikawa-san,

不過值得慶幸的是，據吉川先生說。

there's only one thing that rubs him the wrong way.

只有一件事讓他很不爽。

And, it's easily avoided.

而且，這很容易避免。

Yoshikawa-san has handed me this beautifully prepared assortment of tuna,

吉川先生遞給我這道準備得很好的金槍魚套餐。

freshly brushed with soy sauce and glistening in the light.

新刷的醬油，在燈光下閃閃發光。

And away we go. I'm gonna start with...

我們走吧我要從...

I'm gonna start with akami.

我先從阿卡米開始。

It's the most flavourful one.

這是最有味道的一個。

Oh, wow...

哦，哇...

Oh, bloody hell, that's good.

哦，該死的，這是很好的。

So good!

這麼好！

Honestly.

老實說

It's all about that balance of flavours, right?

這就是味道的平衡，對吧？

Everything has gotta be right, and that -

一切都必須是正確的，而這...

it's just absolutely perfect.

它只是絕對完美。

The vinegar in the rice, the wasabi underneath the fish,

飯裡的醋，魚下面的芥末。

and of course the fish itself - it's the star of the show.

當然還有魚本身--它是節目的主角。

It's so juicy and flavourful.

鮮嫩多汁，味道鮮美。

And then, chutoro.

然後，chutoro。

Mm.

嗯。

Bloody hell. Alright. I think chutoro's my favourite.

血腥的地獄。好吧，我知道了我認為chutoro是我的最愛。

Because it is quite fatty, it does have the melt-in-your-mouth kind of sensation.

因為它的脂肪含量相當高，所以確實有那種入口即化的感覺。

The trouble with having something that is so good, that is so perfect,

煩惱的是，有的東西是那麼的好，那麼的完美。

is going back to anything else feels like a crime.

是回到任何其他的東西感覺像犯罪。

And, uh...

還有，呃...

This is certainly gonna make dining out at other sushi restaurants a whole lot more difficult going forward.

這樣一來，今後在其他壽司店用餐肯定會變得更加困難。

Ohh, god...

哦，天啊...

So bloody good!

真他媽的好！

After poor, old Yoshikawa-san has watched me stuff myself with his carefully prepared tuna,

可憐的老吉川先生看著我用他精心準備的金槍魚塞滿自己的肚子後。

we're joined once again by Ueno-san,

上野先生再次加入我們的行列。

who opens up about the pressures of running a large family business from such a young age,

他坦言，從這麼年輕的時候就開始承受經營一個大型家族企業的壓力。

almost unheard of in Japanese culture,

在日本文化中幾乎聞所未聞。

where the average age of a company president is 59-years-old.

其中公司總裁的平均年齡為59歲。

I think the most impressive thing for me, Ueno-san is, you're 38 now?

我覺得上野先生給我印象最深的是，你現在38歲了？

- Now 38.

- 現在38歲。

But you're the president of a massive company - 30 restaurants.

但你是一家大型公司的總裁--30家餐廳。

In Japan, that's pretty rare, right?

在日本，這是很罕見的吧？

To have someone who's young - someone who's under 40 running the company.

讓一個年輕的人--40歲以下的人管理公司。

I became the president when I was 31.

我31歲的時候就當上了社長。

- 31! I'm 30, so one more year afterwards. - Yeah, yeah.

- 31!我30歲了，所以再過一年就可以了。- 是啊，是啊。

- So... yeah. - That's a lot of responsibility.

- 所以... 是的- 這是一個很大的責任。

Well, my father said, 'You are young, but still I'm young', he said, so...

我父親說，"你還年輕，但我還年輕"，他說，所以... ...

If I'm old, and my planning and thinking is also old...

如果我老了，我的規劃和思維也老了... ...

- Right, yeah, yeah.

- 對，對，對。

Or hard...

或硬...

- Not innovative, maybe? -Ah, yeah yeah.

- 沒有創新，也許？-啊，是啊是啊。

In fact, last year he retired.

事實上，去年他就已經退休了。

- He completely retired? - Yeah.

- 他完全退休了？- 對啊

Lucky man.

幸運的人。

- Lucky man, yeah!

- 幸運的人，是的！

How old is your father?

你父親多大了？

Uhh, 60... almost 4.

嗯，60... ... 幾乎4。

64, wow.

64，哇。

What's been the most difficult thing for you as the leader?

作為上司，你最困難的事情是什麼？

What's the most difficult thing?

最困難的事情是什麼？

Ummmm... Hmm...

嗯...嗯... ...

I don't think of myself as an 'employer'.

我不認為自己是一個 "僱主"。

I don't- I want to be a friend.

我不... 我想做個朋友。

- Do you get what I mean? - To your staff?

- 你明白我的意思嗎？- 對你的員工？

Ah, building trust with the staff.

啊，與員工建立信任。

Building.

建築物。

- Trust.

- 信任。

Trust.

信任。

- With the staff.

- 與工作人員。

With the staff, yes.

和員工一起，是的。

It's most important.

這是最重要的。

- It's most important, and very difficult.

- 這是最重要的，也是非常困難的。

- It takes a lot of time I imagine. - Yeah, it's difficult.

- 我想這需要很多時間- 是的，這很難。

When I started as president, at first I was talking with the staff.

剛開始做總裁的時候，一開始我是和員工談的。

Every staff.

每一個工作人員。

- Everyone?

- 每個人？

Everyone.

每個人都有。

How many staff is there?

有多少員工？

8... 800?

8...800?

800 staff?! Everyone?!

800名員工？每個人？

3 years work! 3!

3年的工作！3!

- It took 3 years! - Yeah!

- 花了三年時間！- 是啊！

Then, I was thinking...

然後，我在想...

What is 'president'?

什麼是'總統'？

What is a president working at?

總裁在什麼地方工作？

Many thinking.

很多人認為。

President... I guess having a goal or a dream.

主席...我想有一個目標或夢想。

Having a vision for your business.

有一個企業的願景。

And Ueno-san certainly has vision.

而上野先生肯定是有遠見的。

In recent years, the company has been planting trees along Tohoku's tsunami-affected coastline,

近年來，該公司在東北海嘯受災的海岸線上進行了植樹活動。

albeit not necessarily for the environmental reasons you might think.

儘管不一定是你想象的環保原因。

Yes.

是的，我知道

- Like it's close to the... - Yeah, yeah.

- 就像它接近... ...- 是啊，是啊。

Very interesting.

非常有趣

Yeah, I'd never thought about that.

是啊，我從來沒有想過這個問題。

I'm so grateful to Ueno-san for letting us come in here to film,

很感謝上野先生讓我們來這裡拍攝。

for dragging me around the market - an incredible experience.

拉著我在市場上轉了一圈，這是一次不可思議的經歷。

The food, the restaurant - it's just such an amazing restaurant, Sushimasa.

食物、餐廳--就是這樣一家神奇的餐廳，蘇軾。

And to hear what it's like to own a restaurant has been just... such an amazing experience.

而聽到擁有一家餐廳的感覺就像... ...如此奇妙的經歷。

Everything about this restaurant is a 10 out of 10,

這家餐廳的一切都在10分以上。

and if you ever find yourself in Sendai, I highly recommend coming to Sushimasa.

如果你在仙台找到自己的位置，我強烈推薦你來棲霞。

It will be an experience that you'll never, ever forget.

這將是你永遠，永遠不會忘記的經歷。