Name: Georgian Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth
Uploaded: 2020-09-08T19:10:46.000Z
Duration: 23 min 2 s

基礎被動語態

Hi, I'm Fashion Historian Amber Butchart and welcome to Kenwood which is cared

嗨，我是時尚歷史學家Amber Butchart

for by English Heritage. I'm standing inside an incredible Georgian house in

歡迎來到由英格蘭遺產管理的 肯伍德府（Kenwood House）

North London which was once home to William Murray 1st Earl of Mansfield

這位處北倫敦、宏偉的喬治王時代風格大宅

and his aristocratic companions in the 1700s. Today we're going to be looking at

在1700年代這裡曾經是第一代曼斯菲爾德伯爵 威廉·穆雷（William Murray）和他的親屬的住所

the late 18th century and we're going to show you how to recreate an authentic

今天我們會探索18世紀末的生活和 如何重現正宗的喬治王時代妝容

Georgian look. We'll be exploring not only what the cosmetics can reveal about

我們不單會窺探所用到的化妝品 可以訴說出那時候的英國的模樣

England during this period but also why bigger was better for the hairstyles of

還會看看喬治王時代最為人津津樂道的巨型髮型

the Georgians. Plus we've got an extra special treat for you. We're going to be

recreating two Georgian looks and talking about how both women and men

我們將會重現兩款喬治王時代妝容

used makeup to make an impression in Georgian society. I am so excited to see this!

和探討女士和男士如何以化妝融入 喬治王時代的交際圈

妳好Amber，歡迎來到喬治王時代

現在好好認住她這張臉 因為很快她就會徹底地改頭換面

I can not wait. So today we're focusing on

我急不及待了 那麼今天我們的重點是喬治王時代

the Georgian era, this is a period of huge political and social upheaval huge change

這時候政局和社會經歷動盪和全面變革

Now technically it lasts from 1714 to 1837 but we're going to be focusing

更準確而言這個變革發生在1714至1837年

on just two decades, the 1770s and 1780s when George III was on the throne

但我們這次挑選了1770年代至1780年代 正當喬治三世在位的時候

So Rebecca what are the key elements from the look from this era?

所以呢Rebecca 這個年代的妝容有什麼特徵呢？

Well the look changed a little bit throughout the centuries but we're going to focus on doing

喬治王時代的美容風格在百年間經歷過些轉變

pale porcelain skin. dark black eyebrows and flushed rosy cheeks - it's going to be

但我們要重現的是那陶瓷般的雪白肌膚、 深黑眼眉和粉紅腮紅

太美了！那讓我們立刻開始好嗎

So step number one is, just like today, skin prep, and I've done loads of

research on skin care. Georgian ladies used creams, they used waters, they used

我做了許多關於護膚的研究 喬治時代女士會用上奶油、清水和各種潔面乳

all sorts of lotions. I found a great recipe that involves the juice of

我找到一個很棒的配方是...使用草莓汁

you'd leave it on your skin overnight and then

you wash it off with water with chervil in it, which is a form of parsley

到早上起床後就以浸著車窩草（chervil）的清水洗面 這葉子是荷蘭芹香草的一種

What this does, apparently, is to get rid of freckles and also to clear a tanned skin

這東西的功效是去斑和清理曬黑了的表皮

It's interesting you say that this was to get rid of freckles. This is a period

妳說道去斑就牽涉到一個很有趣的歷史

where we see the onset of the Industrial Revolution which you know really brings

in huge changes throughout society. But the period we're in at the moment having

而它對整個社會產生了巨大轉變

tan skin or having freckles is really associated with outdoor agricultural

但在這之前雀斑和深色皮膚很容易令人聯想到 出外務農的體力活

work. It essentially is a sign that you don't have much money and so this is why

因此大眾都盡力避免雀斑和深色皮膚

而我們今天所做的妝容是為貴族淑女

for an aristocratic lady, so she wouldn't have had freckles, she wouldn't have had

她不會有古銅色肌膚 而我們就是要消除這些

So we're going to get rid of those freckles with our chervil water and strawberry face cream

所以我們以車窩水和草莓面乳去斑

Fantastic. Now the process of sort of getting dressed and getting

真好呢。現在這個輔料和化妝的步驟

ready the whole toilette was quite elaborate for women at this time and

對當時的女性來說都是頗精巧縝密

could be quite performative in some ways as well. There are some accounts of women

甚至可以說是有些為了滿足表演欲

getting ready while having breakfast or even while entertaining other women you

有些歷史文獻記載當時的女士會在吃早餐時化妝 或者是與其他女士交際時在她們面前化妝

could use it as a sort of socialising time for chatting and catching up on

以帶起聊天話題讓大家交流起來

So our next step is to start creating the

下一步就是之前已經提及的 我們要塑造一個貴族淑女的形象

look and we've already said that we are going to be creating a look for

而且是一位出身名門望族的女士正準備與其他人交際

aristocratic ladies, and this one is for an affluent lady who's going out

為了重現那個白陶瓷面色我們會用到 「有點正宗」的喬治時代粉底配方

socialising. To achieve this pale, porcelain look I'm using an authentic-ish Georgian

我說有點正宗是因為部分原料是當今時代不能用的

recipe for a white face base. Now I say authentic-ish because there are some

例如鉛粉（ceruse）即是鉛白顏料

ingredients that I can't get hold of today like ceruse which, is white led

所以這玩兒在喬治時代依然有被應用？

So this is still being used at this time in the Georgian era? The ceruse which is

我們知道鉛粉是毒性很強和高腐蝕性的物料

和名門Waldegrave三姐妹都堅持使用鉛粉美白肌膚

Waldegrave sisters still insisted on wearing this white lead, white makeup

所以重申一次，我們今天不是用鉛吧？

So you're not using that today, just to clarify?

No, we're definitely not using that today

我現在用的是混合甜杏仁油和二氧化鈦顏料

This is a combination of sweet almond oil and titanium dioxide pigment

這些是今天化妝品都採用的原料 我這裡還加了點蜂蠟

which is used in makeup today and also a little bit of bees wax

妳會如何以喬治時代的方式描畫那黑眼眉呢？

And how are you going to create the dark brows that we so associate with this era?

很有趣地我會用到一顆丁香來畫眼眉

Well interestingly enough, I'm going to be using a clove to coat the eyebrows

很有風味吧 妳要稍稍對丁香的一側燒至熏黑

They smell amazing. You need to burn the end of a clove

I know! And then you can draw them on and they

make really quite surprisingly effective eyebrow pencils

但那個時代還有些傳言說有人會用上老鼠毛

I know! But there were other rumors around at that time that people were using things like

mouse fur to create those thick, lush eyebrows

其實有許多關於將老鼠毛用在眼眉的來源 都是諷刺文學

諸如強納森·史威夫特（Johnathan Swift） 就在諷刺刊物中寫過老鼠毛眉毛的事

talk about mouse fur being used for eyebrows are satirical sources so people

所以我們根本無法查證那玩兒是不是真的 還是只是為了惡搞

like Jonathan Swift wrote about it, there are a few prints as well, satirical prints

這是個諷刺文學開花的黃金年代

that talk about mouse fur eyebrows which is why we're not really

大眾開始借助印刷的普及而發揮無盡創意

sure if it was actually used or if it's just something that people joked about

例如詹姆斯·吉爾雷（Gillray）和喬治·克魯克香克 （Cruikshank）都是19世紀的具代表性諷刺文學家

We're beginning to enter a real golden age of satire at this time. People start

還有一對諷刺文學夫妻檔Matthew和Mary Darly 留下了許多精彩的諷刺時事漫畫

to flourish in the new print culture like Gillray and Cruikshank especially

他們有很多作品是惡搞喬治時代髮型如何浮誇造作

as we move into the 19th century as well. Around this period there a couple called

所以時尚潮流是一個很容易被盯上的惡搞對象

Matthew and Mary Darly who created amazing satirical prints. A lot of them

眉毛看來很美呢 對啊，這顏色不錯吧？

really focused on hair and how elaborate Georgian hair could become. So fashion

was a real target for satirists at this time. The eyebrows are looking fantastic

那是時候加一點臉色 而我會用上...現代的安全替代品

因為那個時代流行使用的朱紅顏料含汞（水銀）

Now it's time to add some color to this face and I'm going to use a modern, safe

而那個時代的女性卻不停地用來當胭脂塗在臉上

alternative to a product called vermilion, which is actually red mercury

Again it's another really toxic ingredient that women were constantly

using on their cheeks to get this bright, rosy flush

這形象真的很像我們在法國畫像中看到的

I love this it looks so incredible, it looks so authentic

特別是末代王后瑪麗·安東妮（Marie Antoinette） 在同年代出產的肖像畫

她的形象正正是英格蘭女士熱衷模仿的

我們在這個年代的時尚潮流可以看到

seeing on French portraits especially portraits of Marie Antoinette for

example from this time. And it was a look for that reason that many women in England

這也反映到同期兩國之間的權力結構的差別

really wanted to emulate. We see this with fashions throughout this era

在法國權力都是集中在一個中央朝廷

as well. There were some differences between English and French fashions

凡爾賽正是上演著權力與財富戲劇的華麗舞台

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Georgian Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth

authentic

sort

intense

absolutely