some tile.

We've already prepped the floor with this underlayment.

Now if you haven't seen the prep video it's important that you watch that first.

We're going to be laying this ceramic tile in a jack-on-jack pattern. It's going to look

great for our bathroom. Now before you start, it's a good idea to

mix tiles from different boxes in case there's any slight difference in color.

All right, let's get down to business. I've

already mixed up some unmodified thinset mortar following the instructions.

It's close to the consistency of peanut butter. Starting at the mark in the center of the

room, fill the cavities in the matting with unmodified thinset using the flat side of

the trowel. It helps to run the trowel in a couple directions. Try not to cover your

reference lines. Now comb additional unmodified thinset with

the notched side of the trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Don't make swirl patterns, and just

put the excess back in the bucket.

Next, lay the tile along the reference lines. Just lightly press and twist into the thinset,

making sure to collapse the ridges of mortar and get full contact to the back of the tile.

Keep laying the tile, putting spacers in between. For tiles that are 12-in x 12-in or larger

it's a good idea to back butter or flat coat the backs of the tiles with thinset prior

to setting the tiles. Every few tiles, lift one up to make sure

there's full contact between the mortar and tile. If not, you can backbutter the tiles

again or use a trowel with larger notches to spread the thinset.

Watch for any mortar on the face of the tile—just wipe away with a damp sponge.

Once you have a few tiles set, check for high spots using a level. You can even them out

with a rubber mallet.

Keep laying the tile working in small sections.

Leave a ¼-inch gap between the tile and the wall to allow for expansion. And when it's

time to grout, be sure not to grout in this space.

To make cuts a tile cutter works great for small jobs, but a rented wet saw is a time

saver for big ones. For the tile around plumbing, use a tile drill

bit for holes and nippers to cut curves. And remember to leave a 1/4-inch around pipes

for expansion.

We're making big progress on this bathroom. The wall tile is up and al the floor tile

is down.

We've let the thinset dry for 24 hours, now it's time to grout. Mix it according to the

directions, usually a paste-like consistency.

Working in small sections, press the grout into the joints with a rubber float. Then

pull it diagonally across the joints and remove as much excess as possible.

After about 20 minutes wipe the grout lines in a circular motion with a sponge and clean

water. The remaining residue can be removed with a grout haze remover.

After the joints have been filled, don't walk on the floor for about 72 hours or as recommended

by the manufacturer.

Back to those expansion gaps around the plumbing. Just apply a bead of silicone sealant.

In three weeks the grout should be completely dry, at which time you should apply a grout

sealer.

The last step is to install any trim or transitions, and reconnect your plumbing fixtures.

Check it out. This new floor looks fantastic, but we're not done with this remodel yet.

Check out our next project at Lowes.com/HowTo.