and DIY projects and in this episode we're gonna be focusing on twin needles

以及自己動手做的方案，而今天我們來談談雙針，

and how to use them. Now if you've never used a twin needle before, don't be

以及如何使用它。如果你從沒有使用過它的話，

scared they're pretty simple to use and they work generally the same on most

別擔心，它非常容易使用。而且使用方法適用於大部份的縫紉機。

sewing machines. So for this demonstration I'm going to be using the

為了影片示範，我將使用

Everson Sparrow 25. A machine I've been using for several years and very much

Everson Sparrow 25 縫紉機。這台縫紉機我已經使用非常多年，而且我非常喜歡它。

enjoy. Now my first experience using twin needles was several years ago. I believe

我第一次使用雙針是在許多年前，我相信

it was on my brother SE400. It was a total disaster so that's why I wanted to

當時我是使用我的兄弟牌紉縫機 SE400 ，可以用大災難來形容，因此我想要

make this video is to help you if you're trying to attempt this for the first

錄製這段影片來幫助大家初體驗使用雙針。

time. Now there are so many different types of twin needles there are

雙針有非常多不同的種類，

different widths there are different types like there are some Universal

例如不同寬度，有全球通用

needles for most fabrics there are ballpoint or stretch twin needles for

的針適用大多數的布料，也有圓頭針尖或適用彈性或針織布料的雙針。

stretchy or knit fabrics. And the reason most sewists use a twin needle is to try

而大多數縫紉愛好者使用雙針是想要

to replicate the same type of look that a cover stitch machine gives. In the past

創造如同三本機縫紉出來的正面模樣。

I've done a few cover stitch machine videos on the Janome 1000 CPX which was

過去我有拍過幾集三本機的影片，是使用日本車樂美JANOME 1000CPX，

a loaner from Pink Castle Fabrics. It was great to work with but I know not

那是我從 Pink Castle Fabrics 借來的。它非常好用，但是我知道

everybody could afford it. Twin needles are a lot cheaper than a

不是每個人都有餘裕擁有一台。雙針要比一台三本機便宜多了。

cover stitch machine. So stay tuned if you want to learn how to use them.

所以請繼續觀看，如果你想要學習如何使用雙針。

Twin needles are commonly used to hem knit garments like sleeves or the waist of a

雙針經常應用在針織衣物的翻摺收邊，如袖口或棉 T 恤下擺。

t-shirt and they give you that store-bought more professional look that

使用雙針可以讓收邊看起來更專業，

a lot of seamstresses love so if you want to use a twin needle it will give

而這可是許多裁縫師所追求的。如果你想要使用雙針，它可以給你

you that same row of double stitching but on the back it looks a little bit

如同三本機的上線車出來的正面雙線效果，但是背面看起來有一些不同，

different than a cover stitch machine and I'm gonna show you the difference

讓我來告訴大家不同處在哪。

Here on the back of a cover stitch machine stitch you see that little

三本機車出來的背面，你可以看到

intricate network. Of threads on the back of a twin needle stitch you'll see

複雜的車線。用雙針車出來的背面，你可以看到

little rows of stitches and a zigzag attaching and connecting those which is

一小排左右左右的車線，這是

the bobbin thread. So when I was looking around for twin needles it can be a little

由底線連接而成的。當要找雙針時，是有點難找到

tricky to find the exact needle you're looking for. It can be a little bit

你真正想要的。有時真的很令人難以想像，

mind-boggling when you see all of the different types of twin needles there are.

尤其當你看到那麼多不同種類的雙針時。

So make sure when you're shopping around

所以請確定你買到

you get exactly what you're looking for because it can be real easy to kind of

你想要的，因為這真的很容易

mix them up or accidently purchase the wrong ones. I'm gonna be practicing on

搞錯而買錯。

some interlocked knit fabric it's a little bit of a sturdy in it. So I

有些針織布料是很結實的，因此

thought that would be good practice and I just thought I would try a couple

我想這樣的布料是很好的示範，我嘗試了一些

different methods when I was shooting my cover stitch videos I did notice it made

不同的方法。當我在拍攝有關三本機的影片時，我的確注意到

a big difference when I at least fold it over the hem already to a predetermined

先把預留縫份翻摺起來，在車縫時會比較順利。

amount usually like half an inch or one inch and then pressed it in place.

預留縫份大概半英吋或一英吋，摺好後把它壓一下固定。

If it was more of a cotton based fabric I could sometimes get away with using

如果是棉質類的布料，我會使用

Elmer's washable school glue to help keep that in place so it didn't shift

布用黏膠來幫助布料固定，

around but I heard good things about using wonder tape so I thought I would

不會在車縫時移動。我聽說使用雙面膠也是個很好的工具，所以我決定

give that a try on one side of the fabric so I made this little test sample

在一面布料試試看這個方法，所以做了這個試車範本。

and on one side I just folded it over and pressed but on the other side I put

在其中一面布料，我把縫份翻摺並且壓一下固定，但另外一面，我使用

wonder tape right on the edge of the hem just to see if it would make a

布用雙面膠來看看使用不同的方法，是否車縫結果有不同。

difference and it certainly did. So let's talk about inserting your twin needle.

而車完後發現的確是有不同。現在我們來談談如何安裝雙針。

you just need to remove the needle that you already have in your sewing machine

首先將你的縫紉機上面的車針移除，

and then insert the twin needle with the flat side to the back at least on my

然後將雙針上端平面的部分對準後面，我的縫紉機是這樣子做，

sewing machine and then insert it like you normally would when it comes to

然後把針裝上去，就如同你平時安裝一般的針的程序。

threading you can just use your bobbin as you normally would

穿線的話，你可以使用底線。

a lot of sewing machines come with an extra spool pin so I installed mine at

大部份的縫紉機附有另一個線軸，所以我就在上面把它裝好。

the top you can also actually use the bobbin holder on top and use your bobbin

你也可以使用捲底線座，然後使用相近的顏色的底線。

with the same matching thread if you don't want to go through that to thread

如果你不想這麼穿線的話，

you first will thread your left thread as you normally would using your main

首先先穿左針，並使用你平常用的線軸，

spool of thread and then when you do the second spool of thread you just run it

然後用第二個線軸來穿右針，

through the same guides and steps that you would normally but the only

將線穿過一樣的路徑及步驟，但是

difference is that when it came to that last little tiny guide right above the

唯一的不同是在穿進針前的最後一個步驟，

needle I skipped that and then threaded my second thread into the right needles

我把它省略，然後直接把第二條線穿到右針。

so there are two needles obviously because it's called a twin needle.

很顯然的我們現在有兩根針。

To make this a little easier to see I used three very distinct thread colors and

為了讓大家看得比較清楚，我使用三種不同顏色的線。

I'll show you a guide here left needle is the purple thread right needle is the

左針我使用紫線，右針是紅線，

red thread and then the bobbin thread is green so you can see which thread is which

底線是綠色。這樣一來大家可以看得很清楚哪條線是哪一條，

when I show you the finished sample. So I started out doing the

展示在完成的作品示範。所以我從

the side that I just used my clover hot hammer to fold over and press didn't do

有圖樣的那面布把它摺過來並壓一下，其他什麼都沒做。

anything else and you want to make sure that the right side of the hem the one

請確定翻摺收邊的正面，就是看得見朝外的那面，

that will be visible on the outside is facing up in your sewing machine and

要放在你的縫紉機朝上的方向。

using my sewing machines seam allowance lines I've eyeballed to where I needed to.

我使用我的縫紉機上的縫份導引，我就用眼精對準我所要車縫的地方。

Line my fabric up so that the stitching would just get to the end of my hem right here

把布對準所要車縫的針位，然後一直車下來。

I don't think it particularly matters which foot use on your sewing machine

我覺得使用我的縫紉機時，使用哪一個壓布腳並沒有什麼區別。

and in hindsight I should have just used my walking foot but I decided to switch

事後我覺得我應該使用均勻壓布腳，但是我當時是使用

it out with the decorative stitch foot because it's clear so I could see easier

裝飾縫壓布腳，我認為我可以看得比較清楚，因為它是透明的。

but I can also see with the walking foot so I think next time I'm gonna try the

但是其實使用均勻壓布腳也可以看得清楚，所以我想下次我會使用均勻壓布腳，

walking foot and see if that makes it any better just because I do really like

看看有沒有比較順手，其實是因為我真的很喜歡

using the walking foot because it feeds the layers of fabric so evenly and

使用均勻壓布腳，因為它送布非常均勻，

normally I just keep the walking foot on my machine like 95 percent of the time

我大概有 95% 的時間，機器上面裝的是均勻壓布腳。

the only time I take it off is if I need something like a zipper foot or like a

我只有在需要使用拉鍊壓布腳或

buttonhole foot but pretty much it's the walking foot the majority of the time

開扣眼壓布腳時才會取下它。大部份時間我都是使用均勻壓布腳來

for most of my sewing projects I just really prefer the walking foot and on my

完成我的紉縫作品。我就是偏愛使用它，

Janome 7700 it's got a built in AcuFeed foot which i really really really

我的車樂美7700有一個隨機附上的送布均勻壓布腳，我超級愛它。

like a lot if you're not familiar with wonder tape it is a water-soluble

如果你不曉得什麼是神奇膠帶的話，它是水溶性的

double-sided stick tape you put it down on whatever project you're working on

雙面膠帶，可以使用在任何作品。

lift up the backing and then you can stick something else to the other side

把後端的紙撕開，然後就可以把其他東西黏在另一面上。

but the good thing about this is that it washes away when you launder the items

這個膠帶的優點是這個膠在下水後就溶解消失，

so even though when I ran my machine through with the wonder tape it's a

即使在機器車過神奇膠帶時，感覺布料

little bit stiff I know once I wash that garment it will be a little stretchy or

有一點硬，我知道布料下水後就會比較有彈性，

and the fabric will have a little bit more give. So I noticed some

而且會比較鬆。我注意到一些

very distinct differences between the side that I did not put the wonder tape

非常明顯的區別，在沒有上神奇膠帶的這一邊，

on and the side that I did so. The side that I did not put the wonder tape on I

和有上膠帶的這一邊。我沒有上神奇膠帶的這邊，

noticed that hem was a lot wavier and it didn't feed through as evenly. Plus I did

我發現收邊比較上不不平整，車的過程也比較不均勻。

notice there was a lot more tunneling on that side. The wonder tape certainly made

我也發現這邊有比較多布料鼓起的狀況。神奇膠帶真的

a difference so if your hemming knits I would highly recommend picking up some

有很大的助益，所以如果你在進行針織物的翻摺收邊的話，我非常推薦買一些

wonder tape. I also found some generic versions on Amazon as well although I

神奇膠帶備用。我有在亞馬遜商城上面找到一些沒有品牌的，

haven't tested those out I think I might pick up some though because they were

我雖然還沒有去使用過，但是我應該會買一些來用用看，因為它們

quite a bit less expensive than the actual wonder tape and I'm gonna see if

真的比有品牌的便宜很多。而且我要看看

if they hold up to the brand name wonder tape. It may or it may not sometimes.

是不是真的有品牌的品質真的比較好。有時候的確是，但是有時候不是。

I have hit or miss luck with those items on Amazon you just never know

在使用這些亞馬遜商城上的產品，我曾經有運氣好，也曾經沒有好運。

but I definitely saw a huge improvement with the Wonder tape side I did get a

但是我的確看到有使用神奇膠帶的成果較好，而我的確發現有幾針有

few skipped stitches I don't know if there's anything I could have done

跳針的情況，我不曉得我還能做些什麼來防止這個狀況。

better but I did kind of notice that the skip stitches were when I would kind of

但是我的確注意到跳針的情況是發生在我

stop or hesitate in the stitching and maybe I should have just let it go

停下來或在車縫時有點猶豫時。或許我應該就放手一搏，

through the whole way without stopping maybe that would have helped. If you have

連續車下去不要停下來。如果你有

any tips for skip stitches while using a twin needle feel free to share those in

有關使用雙針時，防止跳針的小技巧，歡迎大家在底下

the comments below. So we can all benefit from your knowledge because I'm

留言處分享。大家都能從你的知識中獲益，

definitely interested as well. But you can see the three different colors of

我非常有興趣知道。你可以從後面看到三條不同顏色的線，

thread on the back and it just forms a little bit of a network of stitches but

而且它的形狀是呈網絡狀，

not as intense as a cover stitch machine. So overall I was pretty pleased with the

但是沒有像三本機車的那麼密。所以總而言之，我非常滿意這個試車結果，

results and I have used both a cover stitch machine and a twin needle I think

而且我已經用過三本機及雙針，我想

a twin needle is a really great budget-friendly option if you're not in

雙針是一個非常經濟的選擇如果你沒有

the market for a cover stitch machine. I did really like having that loaner

不是擁有三本機的人。我的確很想擁有這台借來的三本機。

though I'll be honest with you it was a lot of fun to use and I could see some

我真的很坦誠的告訴你，使用三本機真的很有趣，而且有許多應用。

applications for it. I don't make a ton of clothes and I also don't really work

我沒有經常縫製衣服而且其實很少。

with it's a whole lot. So I think for now a twin needle may serve my needs and and

所以我認為現階段雙針對我來說是很符合我的需要的。

I'll be good to go but I'm definitely gonna keep experimenting with the twin

我已經準備好了，而且我會繼續使用雙針實驗性車車看。

needle. I did pick up both a stretch and Universal twin needle. So the universal

我的確買了彈性款及一般款雙針。一般款

I'm gonna use on woven fabrics like quilting cotton or something like linen

我會把它拿來使用在紡織布料如棉胎用棉或亞麻布。

and at the stretch needles of going to use on my stretchy or knit fabrics of

彈性款我會把它用在有彈性的布料或針織布料。

course and just a reminder they come in all different types

再提醒一前，它們有各種不同種類。

I chose a width of 4 because I do like a wider set double row of stitches. You may

我選擇寬度4mm，因為我喜歡比較寬的雙列縫線。

want them narrow but that's just kind of what I prefer. In fact I would really

你可能會喜歡窄的，那只是我個人喜好。說實話，我想要試試六號，

like to try a size 6 or if they come in a larger size just because I do like to

或是更大的，因為我就是喜歡寬。

have them wider. But hopefully this video you found it helpful if you're

最終希望這個短片對你有幫助，如果你正

trying to use a twin needle for the first time and again feel free to share

想要第一次試試雙針，歡迎您在

any tips you have with our community right here in the comments. I know I

下面留言處分享您的小技巧。我知道

would love to see what you have to say if you have a lot of experience using

我會很開心看到您的分享您使用雙針的經驗，如果您對使用雙針是很有經驗的。

twin needles because I certainly don't. But like any new sewing technique you're

因為我自己顯然沒什麼經驗。但是就像許多縫紉的技巧，

trying of course it will take a little bit of time and trial and error to

你正在嘗試也一定會花一些時間嘗試錯誤

improve and get better and feel like you've mastered this skill.

而更進步，而你最終覺得你已經習得這個技巧。

So hopefully you enjoyed this video about twin needles and if you are interested

最後，希望你喜歡這支有關雙針的影片，如果你也有興趣

in seeing what a cover stitch machine is all about I've got quite a few videos on

了解三本機的話，我也有一系列的影片使用

the Janome 1000 CPX and I would encourage you to check those out as well

車樂美 1000 CPX。我建議你也看看那些影片。

I'm Jennifer with the sewing report I'll see you guys next time

我是縫紉報告的珍妮佛，下次再見。