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  • I’m trying to get to Sabarimala Temple,

  • one of India’s holiest Hindu shrines.

  • You're going to Sabarimala?”

  • Were going to the top.”

  • But it’s not easy.

  • We go talk to him?”

  • That man.”

  • “O.K. Let’s go.”

  • There are police everywhere.

  • Hello, sir.”

  • They seem to be on high alert.

  • Times?”

  • New York Times.”

  • American.

  • American.”

  • “’New York Times. The New York Times, over.”

  • Thanks for your help, yeah?”

  • Thank you, sir.”

  • In the end, I get through,

  • and I walk among thousands of pilgrims who are here

  • to worship the god Ayyappa.

  • Oh, cool.

  • There it is.

  • There it is.

  • This is it.

  • It’s like a whole little town here.”

  • One group I don’t see?

  • Women, between the ages of 10 and 50.

  • The devout believe Ayyappa is a celibate god

  • and those women could tempt him.

  • But I do meet the vigilantes who

  • are here to stop any young women from entering.

  • Right here, what are you looking for?”

  • Right here, well be asking: How old are you?”

  • Traditionally, women of childbearing age

  • have been banned from coming here.

  • But last year, the Indian Supreme Court

  • said it was illegal to block them.

  • The decision erupted into a religious crisis

  • that lasted for months.

  • [chanting]

  • The devout were furious.

  • They said it was an assault on their religion.

  • And the political right wing seized an opportunity.

  • They rushed in, calling themselves

  • the defenders of tradition, and helped

  • fuel violent protests.

  • So, I came here to feel the reverberations.

  • How much can a controversy over one temple

  • shape politics in the world’s largest democracy?

  • I’m Jeffrey Gettleman.

  • It’s election time, and Prime Minister Narendra Modi

  • will likely win another five-year term.

  • [cheering and applause]

  • This is the first time I’ve actually seen Modi in person.

  • And wow, to rouse his base, he knows exactly what to say

  • and how to say it.

  • He’s trying to leverage the controversy over Sabarimala Temple

  • into votes for his party, the B.J.P.

  • Reporter: “Hello, maam.

  • So, you like Modi?”

  • Yeah, definitely.”

  • Why?”

  • “I think —”

  • Reporter: “Some people say B.J.P. divides India

  • between Hindus and Muslims.

  • What do you say?”

  • Reporter: “Even the Muslims?”

  • Yeah.”

  • Reporter: “So, you think of it as Hindus or Indians?”

  • Among many Modi supporters, this is a core belief,

  • that India is a Hindu nation, despite the fact that people

  • of many religions live here.

  • And I wonder what this means for minorities,

  • and for the future of this democracy.

  • See, since Modi came to power five years ago,

  • hate crimes against Muslims have shot up.

  • Lynch mobs have killed dozens of people suspected

  • of slaughtering cows, which are sacred to Hindus.

  • To be clear, Modi doesn’t encourage the violence,

  • but critics say he hasn’t

  • forcefully condemned it, either.

  • Now, his party is riding this wave of Hindu nationalism

  • into the most secular parts of the country.

  • That’s another reason why I came here, to Kerala.

  • It’s a progressive state.

  • Modi’s party has never won a single Parliament seat

  • from here.

  • This is the party that hold the most seats in Kerala,

  • the Indian National Congress.

  • It stands for a pluralist, secular India.

  • So this is the last place I’d expect

  • the Hindu right to succeed.

  • But the state has turned into a real battleground,

  • all because of Sabarimala.

  • Not far from the temple, I meet up

  • with K. Surendran on the campaign trail.

  • He’s a B.J.P. candidate for Parliament,

  • and he was one of the thousands arrested

  • for rioting at Sabarimala and physically

  • blocking women from entering.

  • It made him a hero of the Hindu right.

  • It’s impressive to see him work the crowd.

  • He doesn’t even have to say much.

  • [singing]

  • People here know exactly where he stands on Sabarimala,

  • and that’s what matters.

  • Modi’s party has another advantage

  • a strong ground game.

  • These men are volunteers with the R.S.S. —

  • The hardline Hindu organization

  • known for churning out leaders.

  • Theyre basically Modi’s foot soldiers.

  • There are thousands of branches like this one.

  • Modi, himself, actually rose up through their ranks.

  • Hari Mohan joined this group when he was 9,

  • and now he helps recruit some of the younger guys.

  • As soon as their workout ends, he and his R.S.S. friends

  • fan out to door-knock for Modi and the B.J.P.

  • What’s interesting is Hari doesn’t talk

  • about jobs, farms or the broader economy

  • Modi isn’t doing so well on those.

  • Instead, Sabarimala Temple is really the issue.

  • I realize that for most people here,

  • even women, the controversy

  • isn’t about gender equality.

  • It’s about traditions, and who will protect them

  • at all costs.

  • India is a deeply religious country.

  • India is also a secular democracy.

  • These two things are becoming harder to square

  • as religion, and one religion in particular,

  • comes to dominate politics.

  • This moment feels like a battle

  • over very different visions for India’s future.

  • And what happens here in Kerala

  • could predict the direction of the entire country.

I’m trying to get to Sabarimala Temple,

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B1 中級

印度大選。莫迪是如何利用宗教危機贏得選票的? (India Elections: How Modi Tried to Use a Religious Crisis to Win Votes | The Dispatch)

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    林宜悉 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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