when I came across this dress. And I actually made this

然後我看到這件，其實是我手工作的洋裝

when I was a 20-year-old student at university

那時我 20 歲，還在念大學

to wear to my end-of-year ball.

是為了年終舞會而做的

I'm not a fashion designer and I'm only an amateur dressmaker

我當時不是時裝設計師 只是基於興趣而製作洋裝

and you can see that I based it on this pattern,

你可以看到其實我是以這個設計為底

which is by a American designer called Badgley Mischka,

它是由一位叫做 Badgley Mischka 的美國設計師所創造的

and it's published by Vogue.

當時被刊登在 Vogue 雜誌上

But this is not talk all about me and my amateur dressmaking abilities,

但在這個演說中，我想說的不只是我 以及我基於興趣而學會的製衣技巧

I want to talk about how fashion has become more democratic

而我想說的是，時尚，在這四百多年來

over the last 400 years or so.

已經變得更加大眾化

And I'm going do that by comparing my dress here

我現在要做的是拿我的這件洋裝

to some paintings all in the Royal Collection.

和一些王室所收藏的繪畫比較

By more democratic I'm taking that to mean

我的意思是，透過變得更大眾化

fashion has become available to a broader section of society

時尚已經滲透到社會的各個領域

and it's more open to individual choice.

也變得更加開放，更加的個人化

So the first point to be made is that the majority of fabrics

首先我必須提到，16 到 17 世紀時

were simply unavailable to the majority of the population

大部分的布料對大眾而言

in the 16th and 17th century.

其實是很難取得的

It was the materials that drove the cost of clothing,

而製作服裝最主要的成本是布料

not the labour involved in, for example, the tailor making them up.

而非人工，例如製作這些服裝的裁縫師

And even the very rich, so Henry VIII for example,

甚至貴族們，例如亨利八世

recycled his clothing and tailored them and changed them as fashions changed.

也必須一再地回收或符合潮流修改他的衣服

It's not an exaggeration to say that in Shakespeare's time

在莎士比亞的年代，這樣的事是很平常的

a high-quality man's cloak could cost more than a house,

一件好的披風有可能比一棟房子還貴

and clothes were far more expensive than paintings.

衣服遠比繪畫貴上許多

So if you look at this painting here of Charles I,

我們看一下這張查爾斯一世的畫像

we've already heard about him, with his family,

我們已經聽說過他和他家人的故事

Charles in this painting is wearing a suit that probably cost around a £150,

在這畫中查爾斯穿著的這套服裝

we know that from his wardrobe inventories,

價值大約有 150 英鎊

but the painting only cost £100 and it's by van Dyke.

而這張出自宮廷首席畫師 Van Dyke 筆下的畫只值 100 鎊

Van Dyke's just arrived from Antwerp,

當時 Van Dyke 剛由 比利時商業大城安特衛普 (Antwerp) 來到這裡

he's one of the most famous artists working at this time,

且他已經是當代最有名的畫家之一

and the clothes that you see cost more than the painting.

而你所看到的這套服裝比這整張畫還昂貴

The painting is huge as well, it's a major commission,

而這張畫其實相當巨大，也所費不貲

and it only cost £100.

但仍只值 100 鎊

Charles spent approximately £5000 a year on clothes,

當時查爾斯每年的治裝費約為 5000 鎊

and that wasn't even seen as particularly extravagant.

這數字在當時並沒有特別奢侈

He was criticized for many things,

這個國王雖然常被批評

but his clothing extravagance wasn't one of them.

但沒有人提到他治裝奢靡

So if we turn to my dress, the fabric for this cost £10,

現在我們看到我的這件洋裝 它的布料約值 10 鎊

I found it in a remnant basket in a fabric shop in Lewisham.

我在 Lewisham 一家布料店的特價區看到它

Fabrics are so much cheaper nowadays

在現在這個時代布料已經便宜許多

because we can get synthetic fibres

因為有合成布料

that can imitate the more expensive fibres such as silk,

能模仿許多較貴的材質，例如絲

which is what this is, and also the processes of mechanization

這件洋裝就是合成的絲質布料，且機械化的生產

mean that weaving and dying are much quicker

讓織布和染布的流程更加快速

and don't have to be done by hand.

也省下了手工

Moreover, today you can be fashionable without wearing expensive materials.

此外，在現代時尚並不一定 需要穿著昂貴的材質

So in the 16th and 17th century to be fashionable,

但在 16 到 17 世紀，要走在時尚尖端

you really had to wear the most expensive silks,

就必須穿著最貴的絲所製成的服裝

and they usually came from Italy.

而這些服裝通常來自義大利

Nowadays though, you don't have to be particularly expensive

然而在現代，你不需要穿著 那些由昂貴材質製成的服飾

in your fabric choice in order to be fashionable.

來顯示你走在流行尖端

So, for example, the trend towards vintage clothing

所以現下復古穿著的流行

positively emphasizes being thrifty,

對於儉樸生活有正面的影響

and people are proud of buying something for a cheap price.

人們還會因為以低價 購得某些事物而感到驕傲

And even high-end designers often use cheap fabrics

且那些高級精品的設計師 也常使用便宜的材質

like cheap undyed cotton like this t-shirt that I'm wearing here today,

像我今天穿的這件 T-Shirt 所用的未染棉

as a fashion item, as a backdrop for their logo

作為一個流行的單品，一個品牌背後的精神

or for a charitable message, like this t-shirt's for breast cancer,

或是為了慈善的目的，如同這件 T-Shirt 是為乳癌募款而販售的

or as a political slogan.

甚或是一個政治性的標語

White t-shirts, also, have remained a fashion basic,

白色的 T-Shirt，一直以來都是流行的基本單品

so Vogue every year seems to proclaim the importance of a white t-shirt

所以 Vogue 雜誌每一年 都會強調基本單品的重要性

or a white vest as a fashion basic.

如白 T-Shirt 或白背心

So imagine you were a merchant in Elizabethan times

想像一下如果你是 伊莉莎白女皇時代的商人

and you'd made your money, you were an up-and-coming member

你賺了錢，才能躋身 當時正在興起的中產階級

of the middle-class society, and you'd made your money

你可能透過進口香料

importing something new like pepper.

等新玩意而致富

Even if you wanted to display how wealthy you were through your clothing,

就算你想藉由你的穿著表現你有多有錢

and that's, let's face it, one of the best ways of doing it,

但，醒醒吧！最能展現你財富的穿著法

you might not have been allowed to wear exactly what you wanted to wear.

可能是不被允許的

And that's due to the presence of what are called sumptuary laws.

因為當時有所謂的禁奢令

These specified exactly what fabric, what colours, and what types of garments

它明白地指出了每個階層所能穿著的

you could wear at every level in society. So, for example,

衣服材質、顏色甚至是款式

an earl would be allowed to wear different things to a duke.

例如伯爵必須穿得跟公爵不同

These weren't a new thing, they'd been around since ancient Rome,

這個禁奢令不是個新法令，它起源於古羅馬

so the emperor was the only person allowed to wear a toga

所以羅馬皇帝是唯一能穿著

dyed with Tyrian purple, a very expensive dye,

由一種相當昂貴的染料染成的 皇紫色 (Tyrian purple) 長袍

extracted from sea snails.

這種染料是從海蝸牛提煉而成的，相當珍貴

But in the 16th century they really reached their apogee,

16 世紀時禁奢令的實行達到高峰

Henry VIII and Elizabeth I loved sumptuary laws,

因為亨利八世和伊莉莎白女皇 都相當推崇禁奢令

and they kept releasing new ones throughout the century.

所以他們不斷地更新禁奢令

And I think that's due to the fact that the 16th century

我想這是因為 16 世紀時

really sees the rise of this new merchant class,

新商人階級崛起

who were able to imitate their superiors

讓商人們能夠開始模仿皇室的優越感

or the nobility because they had the money to do so.

或是他們的貴族享受，因為他們有了財富

I'm going talk about sumptuary laws through this painting

讓我用這幅畫來說明當時的禁奢令

which is a portrait of Elizabeth as a princess,

這幅畫是伊莉莎白女皇還是公主時所畫的

so she's probably only about 14 years old here.

畫中的她大概只有 14 歲

And I'm going to talk about some of the fabrics that she's wearing

我想談的其實是她在畫中穿著的材質

and exactly where they fit into the sumptuary laws.

而她的穿著其實是依照當時的禁奢令所訂的

So, she's wearing a gown, it's probably of silk

她所穿著的，是一件絲質的長袍

and it's been dyed with red.

且這件長袍是紅色的

And the red here probably comes from cochineal,

而這個紅色稱作蟲紅

which is created by crushing insects

因為它是由搗碎某種昆蟲而得來的一種染料

and it was imported from South America during the 16th century.

這個染料在 16 世紀時必須由南美洲進口

The Spaniards really controlled its distribution in Europe,

當時西班牙人控制了 這種染料在歐洲的通路

and they really held a monopoly, it was such an expensive dye,

而他們的寡占導致這種染料相當的高價

it became a real target for piracy.

甚至還成了當時海盜們垂涎的目標

She's also, if you look closely,

畫中的她，如果你再靠近點看

you can see on this detail that I've blown up here,

你能看到許多細節

the fabrics seems to have been woven with metal threads,

這件長袍的材質 其實有金屬的絲線被織在其中

so imagine a piece of fabric, it has threads running up and down

想像一個有片這樣的材質

and then threads running from side to side which are known as the weft threads.

它的織法包含了由上而下 以及由一側到另一側

And this one, as well as having the red silk,

而這件衣服，除了紅色的絲以外

it has metal threads here which are probably of real gold.

還有由純金打造的絲線織於其中

So imagine a gold coin that's been flattened, hammered,

想像一下：一枚金幣，被千錘百鍊後

many times to make it really thin,

變得非常薄

and it's then been cut into strips which are wrapped around a silk core

然後再被作成裹在絲線上的細條

and then that's used to weave into the clothing.

再被用來織進這件長袍中

So you're literally wearing real gold here.

所以其實她穿的是一件由黃金打造的衣服

It's extraordinarily heavy and it could even be melted down;

這件衣服非常沈重，且可能隨時會融化

if times got particularly hard you could turn your clothes back into gold bullion.

如果遇到什麼狀況 這件衣服還能成為一塊救命的金條

So, that's why there are so few surviving of this type of fabric,

這也是為什麼這樣的材質在現代很罕見

we only have really tiny samples.

我們只找到幾片很小的樣本

So both of those things, the red dye and the fabrics woven with gold thread

這件衣服的兩個部分：紅色染料和純金的絲線

were strictly limited to the nobility.

當時僅有貴族能使用

You weren't allowed to wear them if you weren't born into that class.

如果你不是這個社會階級的人 你就不能穿著這些衣服

However, Elizabeth wants to say something else;

然而，伊莉莎白想要表達她的態度

she wants to say that she's royal.

她想讓人知道她出身自王室

And she's doing that through, you can see the red fabrics

而她的方式是 穿著一件右側以這種材質所製

on the right of this detail and then there's another fabric here on the left,

而左側有起另一種材質所製的服飾

this makes up what's called her forepart here

兩種不同材質才組成了她長袍的前片

which is at the front of the skirt.

也就是她洋裝的前側

And that fabric's been woven from silver thread

另一種材質是由銀線所織成

and then it has these tiny little loops of gold thread coming up;

而其中也有金線穿插的環飾

you can just about see them, the artist taking great care

一看就知道這個藝術家花了很多心思

to depict them really carefully.

來製作這件長袍

And you could only wear this,

這樣的衣服

which at this time was called cloth of silver tissued with gold,

當時稱作金銀織袍

if you're a member of the royal family.

只有皇室家族成員能穿著這種材質

So she's making a very conscious statement here

所以她以她的穿著清楚地表明了

about exactly where she fits into society.

她在當時社會的階層

So lets turn again to my dress.

再一次回到我的洋裝

I was allowed to wear whatever colour I wanted,

我能夠穿著我想要的顏色

any type of fabric, any type of garment,

我所選擇的材質和樣式

there weren't any dress restrictions on me.

我不需要遵從任何服裝規定

In terms of colour, this dress, it might not be very clear to see,

例如顏色，這件洋裝 可能你們無法看得太清楚

but it's actually a very dark blue

它其實是非常深的藍色

and in terms of 16th and 17th century dyes it's most close to indigo.

在 16 到 17 世紀的染料顏色中 它最接近靛青這個顏色

Which was another expensive dye, imported from India

必須由另一種由印度進口 非常昂貴的染料所製成

and again limited to the nobility.

這樣的染料，也只有貴族能穿

If you were someone of my status, I'd classify myself as middle class,

如果是我這樣的中產階級

you'd have to make do with woad instead, which chemically related to indigo,

你就必須穿著以菘藍染製而成的服飾 它非常接近靛青的顏色

but it was found in Britain, it was much cheaper,

但卻是在英國本土製造的，也便宜許多

it was much less colourfast, so it would wash out more quickly,

這種染料會很快褪色

and it produced a much less intense colour.

而它所染出的顏色也比較不飽和

I think it's really interesting that we've sort of come full circle,

很有趣的是，我們其實又回到了原點

so the synthetic version of indigo is actually used still

我們現今其實還在使用 合成出來的靛青染料

to dye one of the most democratic, I think, items of clothing, blue jeans.

而且是用在一種我認為是 現在最普及的服飾上，牛仔褲

I'm wearing my version of democratic clothing, here, today, in front of you.

我今天穿著的是我認為最普及的服飾

Synthetic indigo produces the full range of colours for blue jeans.

合成的靛青染料可染出 所有藍色牛仔褲的不同顏色

Blue jeans have their origins, incidentally, in 19th century men's working clothing,

牛仔褲也有它的歷史 它起源於 19 世紀時的工人服飾

so again, it's moving that working-class dress

所以囉，工人階級的服飾

to spread across all different countries, ages, genders and social classes.

現在在不同的國家、不同年紀、不同性別 和社會階級中的人們廣泛地穿著

So, the next point to make is that when I put my dress on

所以我的另一個論點是 當我穿上我這件洋裝時

I didn't have to have any help to get into it,

我不需任何人幫助我

I simply put it on and zipped it up, it was very simple.

我只需要套進去，再把拉鍊拉上就好，非常簡單

But that's definitely not true for someone like Anne of Denmark.

但對於某些人，例如這幅畫中這位 來自丹麥的 Anne 而言，並不是這麼簡單

To get into what she's wearing here would have required lots of help,

要穿上她在畫中的這件洋裝 她需要很多人的幫忙

and it would have taken a really long time.

而且會花很長的一段時間才能穿好

I'm going show you some of the ways that she's showing that through her dress.

讓我來介紹一下她所穿的這件洋裝

So, she's wearing a skirt, and that skirt before she put it on,

首先，這件洋裝在被穿上以前

it would probably have been a pretty simple strip of fabric,

應該只是一件簡單的洋裝

and it's been put over what's called a farthingale,

而這樣一件洋裝被架在 一個鯨魚骨製成的圓環上

so that gives it this sort of drum-like shape,

所以才會形成這樣一個像鼓的形狀

and each of the pleats that you can see around her waist would have been set

而她腰間的花邊皺摺

everyday and pinned into place by her maidservant.

是由她的女傭每天幫她折好並固定住的

It would be nothing without that, and she'd have to do that every day.

這些皺摺非常重要 所以她每天都必須重複這程序

Other features to draw attention to are:

這件洋裝有其他地方值得我們注意：

the fact that she has had her hair set over a wire frame,

她的頭髮外有一個鑲滿珠寶的框架

jewels set into it, she's wearing a bracelet

而她還戴著一條項鍊

that it's actually impossible to tie yourself,

但不可能是由她自己戴上

someone would have needed to do that for her,

所以一定是其他人幫她戴上的

and her sleeves would have needed to be tied into the shoulder,

她的袖子也必須被繫在肩膀上

they actually would've been separate probably at this time.

否則袖子跟肩膀原本是分開的

So this is all telling us that she needs servants, she can afford servants,

這一切都在傳達一個訊息： 她需要且負擔得起被人伺候

and she has lots of spare time to spend on her appearance,

而且她有很多空閒時間打理自己的外貌

and she has no need to labour outside or do anything useful like work

不需要到外勞動或工作

and that also is showing by her very pale skin,

這樣的事實同時也能 從她白皙的膚色看出來

which was the most fashionable type of skin until the 20th century,

這樣白皙的膚色在當時蔚為流行

a suntan not being popular until it began to represent

當時被晒到古銅色的肌膚還不盛行，直到最近

the fact that you could go abroad and could afford holidays.

古銅色肌膚代表你有能力到國外享受假期

So, the pace of change of fashion

所以我們能看出流行的腳步

has change dramatically over the last 400 years.

在這四百年來的劇烈變化

That's due to better communication, so we can spread ideas more quickly,

這樣的變化可歸因於傳播的進步 讓各種想法快速地擴散

and also due to better methods of production.

同時也能歸因於生產方式的改良

The sewing machine, just to go back to my dress,

就拿裁縫機來說吧 讓我們回到我的洋裝

was a major change in the 19th century

就是 19 世紀的一大改變

that meant that even amateur dressmakers could translate designer clothing

讓業餘的服裝設計師 也能從高級精品得到靈感

into their own version without the £500 price tag:

再製造他們自己的版本

Badgley Mischka - that's the average price of one of their gowns.

而不需為了 Badgley Mischka 的品牌花上 500 英鎊 500 英鎊是這品牌服飾的行情價

Taking this into the digital age, companies like Cubify

再延伸到這個數位化的時代 有些像 Cubify 的公司

have created what are called 3D printers.

創造了叫做 3D 列印機的科技產品

So this is the next step after sewing machines;

可被視為繼裁縫機之後的下一個突破性發明

you can create your own shoes

你可以自己製作鞋子

and change the size or the colour or the details,

且任意變換尺寸或顏色，甚或其它細節

and print it in your own home,

然後在家裡把它印出來

so I wonder if this is where the production of fashion is going next.

所以我很好奇這是不是 未來的時尚生產流程

In the 16th and 17th centuries, as well as having these laws set out

在 16 和 17 世紀時，有法律會規定

about exactly what you could wear, you also had these social etiquette rules

你只能穿什麼，還有那些

that weren't necessarily laid in stone but that everyone adhered to.

不須被明文記載，但大家都會遵守的社會規範

And I'm going to give you one example, which is that of hat honour.

舉例而言，有種規範是象徵榮耀的帽子

And in this painting which shows Charles II,

在這幅畫裡，我們看到

we've heard about him earlier as well,

我們剛剛提過的查爾斯二世

he's actually wearing a hat in this painting,

他在這幅畫中戴著一頂帽子

and everyone else, apart from the members of his family, have taken their hats off.

而在場的其他人，除了他的家人以外，都沒有戴帽子

Removing your hat was a mark of deference to your social superiors

脫帽，其實是一種對上位者尊崇的象徵

and to not do so would have meant real trouble.

在當時若不脫帽，會引來很大的麻煩

So the other members of his family, he's got his two brothers and his nephew,