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  • BOOK THIRD. CHAPTER I.

  • NOTRE-DAME.

  • The church of Notre-Dame de Paris is still no doubt, a majestic and sublime edifice.

  • But, beautiful as it has been preserved in growing old, it is difficult not to sigh,

  • not to wax indignant, before the numberless degradations and mutilations which time and

  • men have both caused the venerable monument

  • to suffer, without respect for Charlemagne, who laid its first stone, or for Philip

  • Augustus, who laid the last.

  • On the face of this aged queen of our cathedrals, by the side of a wrinkle, one

  • always finds a scar.

  • Tempus edax, homo edacior; which I should be glad to translate thus: time is blind,

  • man is stupid.

  • If we had leisure to examine with the reader, one by one, the diverse traces of

  • destruction imprinted upon the old church, time's share would be the least, the share

  • of men the most, especially the men of art,

  • since there have been individuals who assumed the title of architects during the

  • last two centuries.

  • And, in the first place, to cite only a few leading examples, there certainly are few

  • finer architectural pages than this facade, where, successively and at once, the three

  • portals hollowed out in an arch; the

  • broidered and dentated cordon of the eight and twenty royal niches; the immense

  • central rose window, flanked by its two lateral windows, like a priest by his

  • deacon and subdeacon; the frail and lofty

  • gallery of trefoil arcades, which supports a heavy platform above its fine, slender

  • columns; and lastly, the two black and massive towers with their slate penthouses,

  • harmonious parts of a magnificent whole,

  • superposed in five gigantic stories;-- develop themselves before the eye, in a

  • mass and without confusion, with their innumerable details of statuary, carving,

  • and sculpture, joined powerfully to the

  • tranquil grandeur of the whole; a vast symphony in stone, so to speak; the

  • colossal work of one man and one people, all together one and complex, like the

  • Iliads and the Romanceros, whose sister it

  • is; prodigious product of the grouping together of all the forces of an epoch,

  • where, upon each stone, one sees the fancy of the workman disciplined by the genius of

  • the artist start forth in a hundred

  • fashions; a sort of human creation, in a word, powerful and fecund as the divine

  • creation of which it seems to have stolen the double character,--variety, eternity.

  • And what we here say of the facade must be said of the entire church; and what we say

  • of the cathedral church of Paris, must be said of all the churches of Christendom in

  • the Middle Ages.

  • All things are in place in that art, self- created, logical, and well proportioned.

  • To measure the great toe of the foot is to measure the giant.

  • Let us return to the facade of Notre-Dame, as it still appears to us, when we go

  • piously to admire the grave and puissant cathedral, which inspires terror, so its

  • chronicles assert: quoe mole sua terrorem incutit spectantibus.

  • Three important things are to-day lacking in that facade: in the first place, the

  • staircase of eleven steps which formerly raised it above the soil; next, the lower

  • series of statues which occupied the niches

  • of the three portals; and lastly the upper series, of the twenty-eight most ancient

  • kings of France, which garnished the gallery of the first story, beginning with

  • Childebert, and ending with Phillip

  • Augustus, holding in his hand "the imperial apple."

  • Time has caused the staircase to disappear, by raising the soil of the city with a slow

  • and irresistible progress; but, while thus causing the eleven steps which added to the

  • majestic height of the edifice, to be

  • devoured, one by one, by the rising tide of the pavements of Paris,--time has bestowed

  • upon the church perhaps more than it has taken away, for it is time which has spread

  • over the facade that sombre hue of the

  • centuries which makes the old age of monuments the period of their beauty.

  • But who has thrown down the two rows of statues? who has left the niches empty? who

  • has cut, in the very middle of the central portal, that new and bastard arch? who has

  • dared to frame therein that commonplace and

  • heavy door of carved wood, a la Louis XV., beside the arabesques of Biscornette?

  • The men, the architects, the artists of our day.

  • And if we enter the interior of the edifice, who has overthrown that colossus

  • of Saint Christopher, proverbial for magnitude among statues, as the grand hall

  • of the Palais de Justice was among halls, as the spire of Strasbourg among spires?

  • And those myriads of statues, which peopled all the spaces between the columns of the

  • nave and the choir, kneeling, standing, equestrian, men, women, children, kings,

  • bishops, gendarmes, in stone, in marble, in

  • gold, in silver, in copper, in wax even,-- who has brutally swept them away?

  • It is not time.

  • And who substituted for the ancient gothic altar, splendidly encumbered with shrines

  • and reliquaries, that heavy marble sarcophagus, with angels' heads and clouds,

  • which seems a specimen pillaged from the Val-de-Grace or the Invalides?

  • Who stupidly sealed that heavy anachronism of stone in the Carlovingian pavement of

  • Hercandus?

  • Was it not Louis XIV., fulfilling the request of Louis XIII.?

  • And who put the cold, white panes in the place of those windows, "high in color,"

  • which caused the astonished eyes of our fathers to hesitate between the rose of the

  • grand portal and the arches of the apse?

  • And what would a sub-chanter of the sixteenth century say, on beholding the

  • beautiful yellow wash, with which our archiepiscopal vandals have desmeared their

  • cathedral?

  • He would remember that it was the color with which the hangman smeared "accursed"

  • edifices; he would recall the Hotel du Petit-Bourbon, all smeared thus, on account

  • of the constable's treason.

  • "Yellow, after all, of so good a quality," said Sauval, "and so well recommended, that

  • more than a century has not yet caused it to lose its color."

  • He would think that the sacred place had become infamous, and would flee.

  • And if we ascend the cathedral, without mentioning a thousand barbarisms of every

  • sort,--what has become of that charming little bell tower, which rested upon the

  • point of intersection of the cross-roofs,

  • and which, no less frail and no less bold than its neighbor (also destroyed), the

  • spire of the Sainte-Chapelle, buried itself in the sky, farther forward than the

  • towers, slender, pointed, sonorous, carved in open work.

  • An architect of good taste amputated it (1787), and considered it sufficient to

  • mask the wound with that large, leaden plaster, which resembles a pot cover.

  • 'Tis thus that the marvellous art of the Middle Ages has been treated in nearly

  • every country, especially in France.

  • One can distinguish on its ruins three sorts of lesions, all three of which cut

  • into it at different depths; first, time, which has insensibly notched its surface

  • here and there, and gnawed it everywhere;

  • next, political and religious revolution, which, blind and wrathful by nature, have

  • flung themselves tumultuously upon it, torn its rich garment of carving and sculpture,

  • burst its rose windows, broken its necklace

  • of arabesques and tiny figures, torn out its statues, sometimes because of their

  • mitres, sometimes because of their crowns; lastly, fashions, even more grotesque and

  • foolish, which, since the anarchical and

  • splendid deviations of the Renaissance, have followed each other in the necessary

  • decadence of architecture. Fashions have wrought more harm than

  • revolutions.

  • They have cut to the quick; they have attacked the very bone and framework of

  • art; they have cut, slashed, disorganized, killed the edifice, in form as in the

  • symbol, in its consistency as well as in its beauty.

  • And then they have made it over; a presumption of which neither time nor

  • revolutions at least have been guilty.

  • They have audaciously adjusted, in the name of "good taste," upon the wounds of gothic

  • architecture, their miserable gewgaws of a day, their ribbons of marble, their pompons

  • of metal, a veritable leprosy of egg-shaped

  • ornaments, volutes, whorls, draperies, garlands, fringes, stone flames, bronze

  • clouds, pudgy cupids, chubby-cheeked cherubim, which begin to devour the face of

  • art in the oratory of Catherine de Medicis,

  • and cause it to expire, two centuries later, tortured and grimacing, in the

  • boudoir of the Dubarry.

  • Thus, to sum up the points which we have just indicated, three sorts of ravages to-

  • day disfigure Gothic architecture. Wrinkles and warts on the epidermis; this

  • is the work of time.

  • Deeds of violence, brutalities, contusions, fractures; this is the work of the

  • revolutions from Luther to Mirabeau.

  • Mutilations, amputations, dislocation of the joints, "restorations"; this is the

  • Greek, Roman, and barbarian work of professors according to Vitruvius and

  • Vignole.

  • This magnificent art produced by the Vandals has been slain by the academies.

  • The centuries, the revolutions, which at least devastate with impartiality and

  • grandeur, have been joined by a cloud of school architects, licensed, sworn, and

  • bound by oath; defacing with the

  • discernment and choice of bad taste, substituting the chicorees of Louis XV. for

  • the Gothic lace, for the greater glory of the Parthenon.

  • It is the kick of the ass at the dying lion.

  • It is the old oak crowning itself, and which, to heap the measure full, is stung,

  • bitten, and gnawed by caterpillars.

  • How far it is from the epoch when Robert Cenalis, comparing Notre-Dame de Paris to

  • the famous temple of Diana at Ephesus, so much lauded by the ancient pagans, which

  • Erostatus has immortalized, found the

  • Gallic temple "more excellent in length, breadth, height, and structure."

  • Notre-Dame is not, moreover, what can be called a complete, definite, classified

  • monument.

  • It is no longer a Romanesque church; nor is it a Gothic church.

  • This edifice is not a type.

  • Notre-Dame de Paris has not, like the Abbey of Tournus, the grave and massive frame,

  • the large and round vault, the glacial bareness, the majestic simplicity of the

  • edifices which have the rounded arch for their progenitor.

  • It is not, like the Cathedral of Bourges, the magnificent, light, multiform, tufted,

  • bristling efflorescent product of the pointed arch.

  • Impossible to class it in that ancient family of sombre, mysterious churches, low

  • and crushed as it were by the round arch, almost Egyptian, with the exception of the

  • ceiling; all hieroglyphics, all sacerdotal,

  • all symbolical, more loaded in their ornaments, with lozenges and zigzags, than

  • with flowers, with flowers than with animals, with animals than with men; the

  • work of the architect less than of the

  • bishop; first transformation of art, all impressed with theocratic and military

  • discipline, taking root in the Lower Empire, and stopping with the time of

  • William the Conqueror.

  • Impossible to place our Cathedral in that other family of lofty, aerial churches,

  • rich in painted windows and sculpture; pointed in form, bold in attitude; communal

  • and bourgeois as political symbols; free,

  • capricious, lawless, as a work of art; second transformation of architecture, no

  • longer hieroglyphic, immovable and sacerdotal, but artistic, progressive, and

  • popular, which begins at the return from the crusades, and ends with Louis IX.

  • Notre-Dame de Paris is not of pure Romanesque, like the first; nor of pure

  • Arabian race, like the second.

  • It is an edifice of the transition period.

  • The Saxon architect completed the erection of the first pillars of the nave, when the

  • pointed arch, which dates from the Crusade, arrived and placed itself as a conqueror

  • upon the large Romanesque capitals which should support only round arches.

  • The pointed arch, mistress since that time, constructed the rest of the church.

  • Nevertheless, timid and inexperienced at the start, it sweeps out, grows larger,

  • restrains itself, and dares no longer dart upwards in spires and lancet windows, as it

  • did later on, in so many marvellous cathedrals.

  • One would say that it were conscious of the vicinity of the heavy Romanesque pillars.

  • However, these edifices of the transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic, are no

  • less precious for study than the pure types.

  • They express a shade of the art which would be lost without them.

  • It is the graft of the pointed upon the round arch.

  • Notre-Dame de Paris is, in particular, a curious specimen of this variety.

  • Each face, each stone of the venerable monument, is a page not only of the history

  • of the country, but of the history of science and art as well.

  • Thus, in order to indicate here only the principal details, while the little Red

  • Door almost attains to the limits of the Gothic delicacy of the fifteenth century,

  • the pillars of the nave, by their size and

  • weight, go back to the Carlovingian Abbey of Saint-Germain des Pres.

  • One would suppose that six centuries separated these pillars from that door.

  • There is no one, not even the hermetics, who does not find in the symbols of the

  • grand portal a satisfactory compendium of their science, of which the Church of

  • Saint-Jacques de la Boucherie was so complete a hieroglyph.

  • Thus, the Roman abbey, the philosophers' church, the Gothic art, Saxon art, the

  • heavy, round pillar, which recalls Gregory VII., the hermetic symbolism, with which

  • Nicolas Flamel played the prelude to

  • Luther, papal unity, schism, Saint-Germain des Pres, Saint-Jacques de la Boucherie,--

  • all are mingled, combined, amalgamated in Notre-Dame.

  • This central mother church is, among the ancient churches of Paris, a sort of

  • chimera; it has the head of one, the limbs of another, the haunches of another,

  • something of all.

  • We repeat it, these hybrid constructions are not the least interesting for the

  • artist, for the antiquarian, for the historian.

  • They make one feel to what a degree architecture is a primitive thing, by

  • demonstrating (what is also demonstrated by the cyclopean vestiges, the pyramids of

  • Egypt, the gigantic Hindoo pagodas) that

  • the greatest products of architecture are less the works of individuals than of

  • society; rather the offspring of a nation's effort, than the inspired flash of a man of

  • genius; the deposit left by a whole people;

  • the heaps accumulated by centuries; the residue of successive evaporations of human

  • society,--in a word, species of formations.

  • Each wave of time contributes its alluvium, each race deposits its layer on the

  • monument, each individual brings his stone. Thus do the beavers, thus do the bees, thus

  • do men.

  • The great symbol of architecture, Babel, is a hive.

  • Great edifices, like great mountains, are the work of centuries.

  • Art often undergoes a transformation while they are pending, pendent opera interrupta;

  • they proceed quietly in accordance with the transformed art.

  • The new art takes the monument where it finds it, incrusts itself there,

  • assimilates it to itself, develops it according to its fancy, and finishes it if

  • it can.

  • The thing is accomplished without trouble, without effort, without reaction,--

  • following a natural and tranquil law.

  • It is a graft which shoots up, a sap which circulates, a vegetation which starts forth

  • anew.

  • Certainly there is matter here for many large volumes, and often the universal

  • history of humanity in the successive engrafting of many arts at many levels,

  • upon the same monument.

  • The man, the artist, the individual, is effaced in these great masses, which lack

  • the name of their author; human intelligence is there summed up and

  • totalized.

  • Time is the architect, the nation is the builder.

  • Not to consider here anything except the Christian architecture of Europe, that

  • younger sister of the great masonries of the Orient, it appears to the eyes as an

  • immense formation divided into three well-

  • defined zones, which are superposed, the one upon the other: the Romanesque zone,

  • the Gothic zone, the zone of the Renaissance, which we would gladly call the

  • Greco-Roman zone.

  • The Roman layer, which is the most ancient and deepest, is occupied by the round arch,

  • which reappears, supported by the Greek column, in the modern and upper layer of

  • the Renaissance.

  • The pointed arch is found between the two. The edifices which belong exclusively to

  • any one of these three layers are perfectly distinct, uniform, and complete.

  • There is the Abbey of Jumieges, there is the Cathedral of Reims, there is the

  • Sainte-Croix of Orleans.

  • But the three zones mingle and amalgamate along the edges, like the colors in the

  • solar spectrum. Hence, complex monuments, edifices of

  • gradation and transition.

  • One is Roman at the base, Gothic in the middle, Greco-Roman at the top.

  • It is because it was six hundred years in building.

  • This variety is rare.

  • The donjon keep of d'Etampes is a specimen of it.

  • But monuments of two formations are more frequent.

  • There is Notre-Dame de Paris, a pointed- arch edifice, which is imbedded by its

  • pillars in that Roman zone, in which are plunged the portal of Saint-Denis, and the

  • nave of Saint-Germain des Pres.

  • There is the charming, half-Gothic chapter- house of Bocherville, where the Roman layer

  • extends half way up.

  • There is the cathedral of Rouen, which would be entirely Gothic if it did not

  • bathe the tip of its central spire in the zone of the Renaissance.

  • Facies non omnibus una, No diversa tamen, qualem, etc.

  • Their faces not all alike, nor yet different, but such as the faces of sisters

  • ought to be.

  • However, all these shades, all these differences, do not affect the surfaces of

  • edifices only. It is art which has changed its skin.

  • The very constitution of the Christian church is not attacked by it.

  • There is always the same internal woodwork, the same logical arrangement of parts.

  • Whatever may be the carved and embroidered envelope of a cathedral, one always finds

  • beneath it--in the state of a germ, and of a rudiment at the least--the Roman

  • basilica.

  • It is eternally developed upon the soil according to the same law.

  • There are, invariably, two naves, which intersect in a cross, and whose upper

  • portion, rounded into an apse, forms the choir; there are always the side aisles,

  • for interior processions, for chapels,--a

  • sort of lateral walks or promenades where the principal nave discharges itself

  • through the spaces between the pillars.

  • That settled, the number of chapels, doors, bell towers, and pinnacles are modified to

  • infinity, according to the fancy of the century, the people, and art.

  • The service of religion once assured and provided for, architecture does what she

  • pleases.

  • Statues, stained glass, rose windows, arabesques, denticulations, capitals, bas-

  • reliefs,--she combines all these imaginings according to the arrangement which best

  • suits her.

  • Hence, the prodigious exterior variety of these edifices, at whose foundation dwells

  • so much order and unity. The trunk of a tree is immovable; the

  • foliage is capricious.

  • -BOOK THIRD. CHAPTER II.

  • A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF PARIS.

  • We have just attempted to restore, for the reader's benefit, that admirable church of

  • Notre-Dame de Paris.

  • We have briefly pointed out the greater part of the beauties which it possessed in

  • the fifteenth century, and which it lacks to-day; but we have omitted the principal

  • thing,--the view of Paris which was then to be obtained from the summits of its towers.

  • That was, in fact,--when, after having long groped one's way up the dark spiral which

  • perpendicularly pierces the thick wall of the belfries, one emerged, at last

  • abruptly, upon one of the lofty platforms

  • inundated with light and air,--that was, in fact, a fine picture which spread out, on

  • all sides at once, before the eye; a spectacle sui generis, of which those of

  • our readers who have had the good fortune

  • to see a Gothic city entire, complete, homogeneous,--a few of which still remain,

  • Nuremberg in Bavaria and Vittoria in Spain,--can readily form an idea; or even

  • smaller specimens, provided that they are

  • well preserved,--Vitre in Brittany, Nordhausen in Prussia.

  • The Paris of three hundred and fifty years ago--the Paris of the fifteenth century--

  • was already a gigantic city.

  • We Parisians generally make a mistake as to the ground which we think that we have

  • gained, since Paris has not increased much over one-third since the time of Louis XI.

  • It has certainly lost more in beauty than it has gained in size.

  • Paris had its birth, as the reader knows, in that old island of the City which has

  • the form of a cradle.

  • The strand of that island was its first boundary wall, the Seine its first moat.

  • Paris remained for many centuries in its island state, with two bridges, one on the

  • north, the other on the south; and two bridge heads, which were at the same time

  • its gates and its fortresses,--the Grand-

  • Chatelet on the right bank, the Petit- Chatelet on the left.

  • Then, from the date of the kings of the first race, Paris, being too cribbed and

  • confined in its island, and unable to return thither, crossed the water.

  • Then, beyond the Grand, beyond the Petit- Chatelet, a first circle of walls and

  • towers began to infringe upon the country on the two sides of the Seine.

  • Some vestiges of this ancient enclosure still remained in the last century; to-day,

  • only the memory of it is left, and here and there a tradition, the Baudets or Baudoyer

  • gate, "Porte Bagauda".

  • Little by little, the tide of houses, always thrust from the heart of the city

  • outwards, overflows, devours, wears away, and effaces this wall.

  • Philip Augustus makes a new dike for it.

  • He imprisons Paris in a circular chain of great towers, both lofty and solid.

  • For the period of more than a century, the houses press upon each other, accumulate,

  • and raise their level in this basin, like water in a reservoir.

  • They begin to deepen; they pile story upon story; they mount upon each other; they

  • gush forth at the top, like all laterally compressed growth, and there is a rivalry

  • as to which shall thrust its head above its

  • neighbors, for the sake of getting a little air.

  • The street glows narrower and deeper, every space is overwhelmed and disappears.

  • The houses finally leap the wall of Philip Augustus, and scatter joyfully over the

  • plain, without order, and all askew, like runaways.

  • There they plant themselves squarely, cut themselves gardens from the fields, and

  • take their ease.

  • Beginning with 1367, the city spreads to such an extent into the suburbs, that a new

  • wall becomes necessary, particularly on the right bank; Charles V. builds it.

  • But a city like Paris is perpetually growing.

  • It is only such cities that become capitals.

  • They are funnels, into which all the geographical, political, moral, and

  • intellectual water-sheds of a country, all the natural slopes of a people, pour; wells

  • of civilization, so to speak, and also

  • sewers, where commerce, industry, intelligence, population,--all that is sap,

  • all that is life, all that is the soul of a nation, filters and amasses unceasingly,

  • drop by drop, century by century.

  • So Charles V.'s wall suffered the fate of that of Philip Augustus.

  • At the end of the fifteenth century, the Faubourg strides across it, passes beyond

  • it, and runs farther.

  • In the sixteenth, it seems to retreat visibly, and to bury itself deeper and

  • deeper in the old city, so thick had the new city already become outside of it.

  • Thus, beginning with the fifteenth century, where our story finds us, Paris had already

  • outgrown the three concentric circles of walls which, from the time of Julian the

  • Apostate, existed, so to speak, in germ in

  • the Grand-Chatelet and the Petit-Chatelet.

  • The mighty city had cracked, in succession, its four enclosures of walls, like a child

  • grown too large for his garments of last year.

  • Under Louis XI., this sea of houses was seen to be pierced at intervals by several

  • groups of ruined towers, from the ancient wall, like the summits of hills in an

  • inundation,--like archipelagos of the old Paris submerged beneath the new.

  • Since that time Paris has undergone yet another transformation, unfortunately for

  • our eyes; but it has passed only one more wall, that of Louis XV., that miserable

  • wall of mud and spittle, worthy of the king

  • who built it, worthy of the poet who sung it,--

  • Le mur murant Paris rend Paris murmurant.*

  • * The wall walling Paris makes Paris murmur.

  • In the fifteenth century, Paris was still divided into three wholly distinct and

  • separate towns, each having its own physiognomy, its own specialty, its

  • manners, customs, privileges, and history: the City, the University, the Town.

  • The City, which occupied the island, was the most ancient, the smallest, and the

  • mother of the other two, crowded in between them like (may we be pardoned the

  • comparison) a little old woman between two large and handsome maidens.

  • The University covered the left bank of the Seine, from the Tournelle to the Tour de

  • Nesle, points which correspond in the Paris of to-day, the one to the wine market, the

  • other to the mint.

  • Its wall included a large part of that plain where Julian had built his hot baths.

  • The hill of Sainte-Genevieve was enclosed in it.

  • The culminating point of this sweep of walls was the Papal gate, that is to say,

  • near the present site of the Pantheon.

  • The Town, which was the largest of the three fragments of Paris, held the right

  • bank.

  • Its quay, broken or interrupted in many places, ran along the Seine, from the Tour

  • de Billy to the Tour du Bois; that is to say, from the place where the granary

  • stands to-day, to the present site of the Tuileries.

  • These four points, where the Seine intersected the wall of the capital, the

  • Tournelle and the Tour de Nesle on the right, the Tour de Billy and the Tour du

  • Bois on the left, were called pre- eminently, "the four towers of Paris."

  • The Town encroached still more extensively upon the fields than the University.

  • The culminating point of the Town wall (that of Charles V.) was at the gates of

  • Saint-Denis and Saint-Martin, whose situation has not been changed.

  • As we have just said, each of these three great divisions of Paris was a town, but

  • too special a town to be complete, a city which could not get along without the other

  • two.

  • Hence three entirely distinct aspects: churches abounded in the City; palaces, in

  • the Town; and colleges, in the University.

  • Neglecting here the originalities, of secondary importance in old Paris, and the

  • capricious regulations regarding the public highways, we will say, from a general point

  • of view, taking only masses and the whole

  • group, in this chaos of communal jurisdictions, that the island belonged to

  • the bishop, the right bank to the provost of the merchants, the left bank to the

  • Rector; over all ruled the provost of Paris, a royal not a municipal official.

  • The City had Notre-Dame; the Town, the Louvre and the Hotel de Ville; the

  • University, the Sorbonne.

  • The Town had the markets (Halles); the city, the Hospital; the University, the

  • Pre-aux-Clercs.

  • Offences committed by the scholars on the left bank were tried in the law courts on

  • the island, and were punished on the right bank at Montfaucon; unless the rector,

  • feeling the university to be strong and the

  • king weak, intervened; for it was the students' privilege to be hanged on their

  • own grounds.

  • The greater part of these privileges, it may be noted in passing, and there were

  • some even better than the above, had been extorted from the kings by revolts and

  • mutinies.

  • It is the course of things from time immemorial; the king only lets go when the

  • people tear away.

  • There is an old charter which puts the matter naively: apropos of fidelity:

  • Civibus fidelitas in reges, quoe tamen aliquoties seditionibus interrypta, multa

  • peperit privileyia.

  • In the fifteenth century, the Seine bathed five islands within the walls of Paris:

  • Louviers island, where there were then trees, and where there is no longer

  • anything but wood; l'ile aux Vaches, and

  • l'ile Notre-Dame, both deserted, with the exception of one house, both fiefs of the

  • bishop--in the seventeenth century, a single island was formed out of these two,

  • which was built upon and named l'ile Saint-

  • Louis--, lastly the City, and at its point, the little islet of the cow tender, which

  • was afterwards engulfed beneath the platform of the Pont-Neuf.

  • The City then had five bridges: three on the right, the Pont Notre-Dame, and the

  • Pont au Change, of stone, the Pont aux Meuniers, of wood; two on the left, the

  • Petit Pont, of stone, the Pont Saint- Michel, of wood; all loaded with houses.

  • The University had six gates, built by Philip Augustus; there were, beginning with

  • la Tournelle, the Porte Saint-Victor, the Porte Bordelle, the Porte Papale, the Porte

  • Saint-Jacques, the Porte Saint-Michel, the Porte Saint-Germain.

  • The Town had six gates, built by Charles V.; beginning with the Tour de Billy they

  • were: the Porte Saint-Antoine, the Porte du Temple, the Porte Saint-Martin, the Porte

  • Saint-Denis, the Porte Montmartre, the Porte Saint-Honore.

  • All these gates were strong, and also handsome, which does not detract from

  • strength.

  • A large, deep moat, with a brisk current during the high water of winter, bathed the

  • base of the wall round Paris; the Seine furnished the water.

  • At night, the gates were shut, the river was barred at both ends of the city with

  • huge iron chains, and Paris slept tranquilly.

  • From a bird's-eye view, these three burgs, the City, the Town, and the University,

  • each presented to the eye an inextricable skein of eccentrically tangled streets.

  • Nevertheless, at first sight, one recognized the fact that these three

  • fragments formed but one body.

  • One immediately perceived three long parallel streets, unbroken, undisturbed,

  • traversing, almost in a straight line, all three cities, from one end to the other;

  • from North to South, perpendicularly, to

  • the Seine, which bound them together, mingled them, infused them in each other,

  • poured and transfused the people incessantly, from one to the other, and

  • made one out of the three.

  • The first of these streets ran from the Porte Saint-Martin: it was called the Rue

  • Saint-Jacques in the University, Rue de la Juiverie in the City, Rue Saint-Martin in

  • the Town; it crossed the water twice, under

  • the name of the Petit Pont and the Pont Notre-Dame.

  • The second, which was called the Rue de la Harpe on the left bank, Rue de la

  • Barillerie in the island, Rue Saint-Denis on the right bank, Pont Saint-Michel on one

  • arm of the Seine, Pont au Change on the

  • other, ran from the Porte Saint-Michel in the University, to the Porte Saint-Denis in

  • the Town.

  • However, under all these names, there were but two streets, parent streets, generating

  • streets,--the two arteries of Paris.

  • All the other veins of the triple city either derived their supply from them or

  • emptied into them.

  • Independently of these two principal streets, piercing Paris diametrically in

  • its whole breadth, from side to side, common to the entire capital, the City and

  • the University had also each its own great

  • special street, which ran lengthwise by them, parallel to the Seine, cutting, as it

  • passed, at right angles, the two arterial thoroughfares.

  • Thus, in the Town, one descended in a straight line from the Porte Saint-Antoine

  • to the Porte Saint-Honore; in the University from the Porte Saint-Victor to

  • the Porte Saint-Germain.

  • These two great thoroughfares intersected by the two first, formed the canvas upon

  • which reposed, knotted and crowded together on every hand, the labyrinthine network of

  • the streets of Paris.

  • In the incomprehensible plan of these streets, one distinguished likewise, on

  • looking attentively, two clusters of great streets, like magnified sheaves of grain,

  • one in the University, the other in the

  • Town, which spread out gradually from the bridges to the gates.

  • Some traces of this geometrical plan still exist to-day.

  • Now, what aspect did this whole present, when, as viewed from the summit of the

  • towers of Notre-Dame, in 1482? That we shall try to describe.

  • For the spectator who arrived, panting, upon that pinnacle, it was first a dazzling

  • confusing view of roofs, chimneys, streets, bridges, places, spires, bell towers.

  • Everything struck your eye at once: the carved gable, the pointed roof, the turrets

  • suspended at the angles of the walls; the stone pyramids of the eleventh century, the

  • slate obelisks of the fifteenth; the round,

  • bare tower of the donjon keep; the square and fretted tower of the church; the great

  • and the little, the massive and the aerial.

  • The eye was, for a long time, wholly lost in this labyrinth, where there was nothing

  • which did not possess its originality, its reason, its genius, its beauty,--nothing

  • which did not proceed from art; beginning

  • with the smallest house, with its painted and carved front, with external beams,

  • elliptical door, with projecting stories, to the royal Louvre, which then had a

  • colonnade of towers.

  • But these are the principal masses which were then to be distinguished when the eye

  • began to accustom itself to this tumult of edifices.

  • In the first place, the City.--"The island of the City," as Sauval says, who, in spite

  • of his confused medley, sometimes has such happy turns of expression,--"the island of

  • the city is made like a great ship, stuck

  • in the mud and run aground in the current, near the centre of the Seine."

  • We have just explained that, in the fifteenth century, this ship was anchored

  • to the two banks of the river by five bridges.

  • This form of a ship had also struck the heraldic scribes; for it is from that, and

  • not from the siege by the Normans, that the ship which blazons the old shield of Paris,

  • comes, according to Favyn and Pasquier.

  • For him who understands how to decipher them, armorial bearings are algebra,

  • armorial bearings have a tongue.

  • The whole history of the second half of the Middle Ages is written in armorial

  • bearings,--the first half is in the symbolism of the Roman churches.

  • They are the hieroglyphics of feudalism, succeeding those of theocracy.

  • Thus the City first presented itself to the eye, with its stern to the east, and its

  • prow to the west.

  • Turning towards the prow, one had before one an innumerable flock of ancient roofs,

  • over which arched broadly the lead-covered apse of the Sainte-Chapelle, like an

  • elephant's haunches loaded with its tower.

  • Only here, this tower was the most audacious, the most open, the most

  • ornamented spire of cabinet-maker's work that ever let the sky peep through its cone

  • of lace.

  • In front of Notre-Dame, and very near at hand, three streets opened into the

  • cathedral square,--a fine square, lined with ancient houses.

  • Over the south side of this place bent the wrinkled and sullen facade of the Hotel

  • Dieu, and its roof, which seemed covered with warts and pustules.

  • Then, on the right and the left, to east and west, within that wall of the City,

  • which was yet so contracted, rose the bell towers of its one and twenty churches, of

  • every date, of every form, of every size,

  • from the low and wormeaten belfry of Saint- Denis du Pas (Carcer Glaueini) to the

  • slender needles of Saint-Pierre aux Boeufs and Saint-Landry.

  • Behind Notre-Dame, the cloister and its Gothic galleries spread out towards the

  • north; on the south, the half-Roman palace of the bishop; on the east, the desert

  • point of the Terrain.

  • In this throng of houses the eye also distinguished, by the lofty open-work

  • mitres of stone which then crowned the roof itself, even the most elevated windows of

  • the palace, the Hotel given by the city,

  • under Charles VI., to Juvenal des Ursins; a little farther on, the pitch-covered sheds

  • of the Palus Market; in still another quarter the new apse of Saint-Germain le

  • Vieux, lengthened in 1458, with a bit of

  • the Rue aux Febves; and then, in places, a square crowded with people; a pillory,

  • erected at the corner of a street; a fine fragment of the pavement of Philip

  • Augustus, a magnificent flagging, grooved

  • for the horses' feet, in the middle of the road, and so badly replaced in the

  • sixteenth century by the miserable cobblestones, called the "pavement of the

  • League;" a deserted back courtyard, with

  • one of those diaphanous staircase turrets, such as were erected in the fifteenth

  • century, one of which is still to be seen in the Rue des Bourdonnais.

  • Lastly, at the right of the Sainte- Chapelle, towards the west, the Palais de

  • Justice rested its group of towers at the edge of the water.

  • The thickets of the king's gardens, which covered the western point of the City,

  • masked the Island du Passeur.

  • As for the water, from the summit of the towers of Notre-Dame one hardly saw it, on

  • either side of the City; the Seine was hidden by bridges, the bridges by houses.

  • And when the glance passed these bridges, whose roofs were visibly green, rendered

  • mouldy before their time by the vapors from the water, if it was directed to the left,

  • towards the University, the first edifice

  • which struck it was a large, low sheaf of towers, the Petit-Chatelet, whose yawning

  • gate devoured the end of the Petit-Pont.

  • Then, if your view ran along the bank, from east to west, from the Tournelle to the

  • Tour de Nesle, there was a long cordon of houses, with carved beams, stained-glass

  • windows, each story projecting over that

  • beneath it, an interminable zigzag of bourgeois gables, frequently interrupted by

  • the mouth of a street, and from time to time also by the front or angle of a huge

  • stone mansion, planted at its ease, with

  • courts and gardens, wings and detached buildings, amid this populace of crowded

  • and narrow houses, like a grand gentleman among a throng of rustics.

  • There were five or six of these mansions on the quay, from the house of Lorraine, which

  • shared with the Bernardins the grand enclosure adjoining the Tournelle, to the

  • Hotel de Nesle, whose principal tower ended

  • Paris, and whose pointed roofs were in a position, during three months of the year,

  • to encroach, with their black triangles, upon the scarlet disk of the setting sun.

  • This side of the Seine was, however, the least mercantile of the two.

  • Students furnished more of a crowd and more noise there than artisans, and there was

  • not, properly speaking, any quay, except from the Pont Saint-Michel to the Tour de

  • Nesle.

  • The rest of the bank of the Seine was now a naked strand, the same as beyond the

  • Bernardins; again, a throng of houses, standing with their feet in the water, as

  • between the two bridges.

  • There was a great uproar of laundresses; they screamed, and talked, and sang from

  • morning till night along the beach, and beat a great deal of linen there, just as

  • in our day.

  • This is not the least of the gayeties of Paris.

  • The University presented a dense mass to the eye.

  • From one end to the other, it was homogeneous and compact.

  • The thousand roofs, dense, angular, clinging to each other, composed, nearly

  • all, of the same geometrical element, offered, when viewed from above, the aspect

  • of a crystallization of the same substance.

  • The capricious ravine of streets did not cut this block of houses into too

  • disproportionate slices.

  • The forty-two colleges were scattered about in a fairly equal manner, and there were

  • some everywhere.

  • The amusingly varied crests of these beautiful edifices were the product of the

  • same art as the simple roofs which they overshot, and were, actually, only a

  • multiplication of the square or the cube of the same geometrical figure.

  • Hence they complicated the whole effect, without disturbing it; completed, without

  • overloading it.

  • Geometry is harmony. Some fine mansions here and there made

  • magnificent outlines against the picturesque attics of the left bank.

  • The house of Nevers, the house of Rome, the house of Reims, which have disappeared; the

  • Hotel de Cluny, which still exists, for the consolation of the artist, and whose tower

  • was so stupidly deprived of its crown a few years ago.

  • Close to Cluny, that Roman palace, with fine round arches, were once the hot baths

  • of Julian.

  • There were a great many abbeys, of a beauty more devout, of a grandeur more solemn than

  • the mansions, but not less beautiful, not less grand.

  • Those which first caught the eye were the Bernardins, with their three bell towers;

  • Sainte-Genevieve, whose square tower, which still exists, makes us regret the rest; the

  • Sorbonne, half college, half monastery, of

  • which so admirable a nave survives; the fine quadrilateral cloister of the

  • Mathurins; its neighbor, the cloister of Saint-Benoit, within whose walls they have

  • had time to cobble up a theatre, between

  • the seventh and eighth editions of this book; the Cordeliers, with their three

  • enormous adjacent gables; the Augustins, whose graceful spire formed, after the Tour

  • de Nesle, the second denticulation on this side of Paris, starting from the west.

  • The colleges, which are, in fact, the intermediate ring between the cloister and

  • the world, hold the middle position in the monumental series between the Hotels and

  • the abbeys, with a severity full of

  • elegance, sculpture less giddy than the palaces, an architecture less severe than

  • the convents.

  • Unfortunately, hardly anything remains of these monuments, where Gothic art combined

  • with so just a balance, richness and economy.

  • The churches (and they were numerous and splendid in the University, and they were

  • graded there also in all the ages of architecture, from the round arches of

  • Saint-Julian to the pointed arches of

  • Saint-Severin), the churches dominated the whole; and, like one harmony more in this

  • mass of harmonies, they pierced in quick succession the multiple open work of the

  • gables with slashed spires, with open-work

  • bell towers, with slender pinnacles, whose line was also only a magnificent

  • exaggeration of the acute angle of the roofs.

  • The ground of the University was hilly; Mount Sainte-Genevieve formed an enormous

  • mound to the south; and it was a sight to see from the summit of Notre-Dame how that

  • throng of narrow and tortuous streets (to-

  • day the Latin Quarter), those bunches of houses which, spread out in every direction

  • from the top of this eminence, precipitated themselves in disorder, and almost

  • perpendicularly down its flanks, nearly to

  • the water's edge, having the air, some of falling, others of clambering up again, and

  • all of holding to one another.

  • A continual flux of a thousand black points which passed each other on the pavements

  • made everything move before the eyes; it was the populace seen thus from aloft and

  • afar.

  • Lastly, in the intervals of these roofs, of these spires, of these accidents of

  • numberless edifices, which bent and writhed, and jagged in so eccentric a

  • manner the extreme line of the University,

  • one caught a glimpse, here and there, of a great expanse of moss-grown wall, a thick,

  • round tower, a crenellated city gate, shadowing forth the fortress; it was the

  • wall of Philip Augustus.

  • Beyond, the fields gleamed green; beyond, fled the roads, along which were scattered

  • a few more suburban houses, which became more infrequent as they became more

  • distant.

  • Some of these faubourgs were important: there were, first, starting from la

  • Tournelle, the Bourg Saint-Victor, with its one arch bridge over the Bievre, its abbey

  • where one could read the epitaph of Louis

  • le Gros, epitaphium Ludovici Grossi, and its church with an octagonal spire, flanked

  • with four little bell towers of the eleventh century (a similar one can be seen

  • at Etampes; it is not yet destroyed); next,

  • the Bourg Saint-Marceau, which already had three churches and one convent; then,

  • leaving the mill of the Gobelins and its four white walls on the left, there was the

  • Faubourg Saint-Jacques with the beautiful

  • carved cross in its square; the church of Saint-Jacques du Haut-Pas, which was then

  • Gothic, pointed, charming; Saint-Magloire, a fine nave of the fourteenth century,

  • which Napoleon turned into a hayloft;

  • Notre-Dame des Champs, where there were Byzantine mosaics; lastly, after having

  • left behind, full in the country, the Monastery des Chartreux, a rich edifice

  • contemporary with the Palais de Justice,

  • with its little garden divided into compartments, and the haunted ruins of

  • Vauvert, the eye fell, to the west, upon the three Roman spires of Saint-Germain des

  • Pres.

  • The Bourg Saint-Germain, already a large community, formed fifteen or twenty streets

  • in the rear; the pointed bell tower of Saint-Sulpice marked one corner of the

  • town.

  • Close beside it one descried the quadrilateral enclosure of the fair of

  • Saint-Germain, where the market is situated to-day; then the abbot's pillory, a pretty

  • little round tower, well capped with a

  • leaden cone; the brickyard was further on, and the Rue du Four, which led to the

  • common bakehouse, and the mill on its hillock, and the lazar house, a tiny house,

  • isolated and half seen.

  • But that which attracted the eye most of all, and fixed it for a long time on that

  • point, was the abbey itself.

  • It is certain that this monastery, which had a grand air, both as a church and as a

  • seignory; that abbatial palace, where the bishops of Paris counted themselves happy

  • if they could pass the night; that

  • refectory, upon which the architect had bestowed the air, the beauty, and the rose

  • window of a cathedral; that elegant chapel of the Virgin; that monumental dormitory;

  • those vast gardens; that portcullis; that

  • drawbridge; that envelope of battlements which notched to the eye the verdure of the

  • surrounding meadows; those courtyards, where gleamed men at arms, intermingled

  • with golden copes;--the whole grouped and

  • clustered about three lofty spires, with round arches, well planted upon a Gothic

  • apse, made a magnificent figure against the horizon.

  • When, at length, after having contemplated the University for a long time, you turned

  • towards the right bank, towards the Town, the character of the spectacle was abruptly

  • altered.

  • The Town, in fact much larger than the University, was also less of a unit.

  • At the first glance, one saw that it was divided into many masses, singularly

  • distinct.

  • First, to the eastward, in that part of the town which still takes its name from the

  • marsh where Camulogenes entangled Caesar, was a pile of palaces.

  • The block extended to the very water's edge.

  • Four almost contiguous Hotels, Jouy, Sens, Barbeau, the house of the Queen, mirrored

  • their slate peaks, broken with slender turrets, in the Seine.

  • These four edifices filled the space from the Rue des Nonaindieres, to the abbey of

  • the Celestins, whose spire gracefully relieved their line of gables and

  • battlements.

  • A few miserable, greenish hovels, hanging over the water in front of these sumptuous

  • Hotels, did not prevent one from seeing the fine angles of their facades, their large,

  • square windows with stone mullions, their

  • pointed porches overloaded with statues, the vivid outlines of their walls, always

  • clear cut, and all those charming accidents of architecture, which cause Gothic art to

  • have the air of beginning its combinations afresh with every monument.

  • Behind these palaces, extended in all directions, now broken, fenced in,

  • battlemented like a citadel, now veiled by great trees like a Carthusian convent, the

  • immense and multiform enclosure of that

  • miraculous Hotel de Saint-Pol, where the King of France possessed the means of

  • lodging superbly two and twenty princes of the rank of the dauphin and the Duke of

  • Burgundy, with their domestics and their

  • suites, without counting the great lords, and the emperor when he came to view Paris,

  • and the lions, who had their separate Hotel at the royal Hotel.

  • Let us say here that a prince's apartment was then composed of never less than eleven

  • large rooms, from the chamber of state to the oratory, not to mention the galleries,

  • baths, vapor-baths, and other "superfluous

  • places," with which each apartment was provided; not to mention the private

  • gardens for each of the king's guests; not to mention the kitchens, the cellars, the

  • domestic offices, the general refectories

  • of the house, the poultry-yards, where there were twenty-two general laboratories,

  • from the bakehouses to the wine-cellars; games of a thousand sorts, malls, tennis,

  • and riding at the ring; aviaries,

  • fishponds, menageries, stables, barns, libraries, arsenals and foundries.

  • This was what a king's palace, a Louvre, a Hotel de Saint-Pol was then.

  • A city within a city.

  • From the tower where we are placed, the Hotel Saint-Pol, almost half hidden by the

  • four great houses of which we have just spoken, was still very considerable and

  • very marvellous to see.

  • One could there distinguish, very well, though cleverly united with the principal

  • building by long galleries, decked with painted glass and slender columns, the

  • three Hotels which Charles V. had

  • amalgamated with his palace: the Hotel du Petit-Muce, with the airy balustrade, which

  • formed a graceful border to its roof; the Hotel of the Abbe de Saint-Maur, having the

  • vanity of a stronghold, a great tower,

  • machicolations, loopholes, iron gratings, and over the large Saxon door, the armorial

  • bearings of the abbe, between the two mortises of the drawbridge; the Hotel of

  • the Comte d' Etampes, whose donjon keep,

  • ruined at its summit, was rounded and notched like a cock's comb; here and there,

  • three or four ancient oaks, forming a tuft together like enormous cauliflowers;

  • gambols of swans, in the clear water of the

  • fishponds, all in folds of light and shade; many courtyards of which one beheld

  • picturesque bits; the Hotel of the Lions, with its low, pointed arches on short,

  • Saxon pillars, its iron gratings and its

  • perpetual roar; shooting up above the whole, the scale-ornamented spire of the

  • Ave-Maria; on the left, the house of the Provost of Paris, flanked by four small

  • towers, delicately grooved, in the middle;

  • at the extremity, the Hotel Saint-Pol, properly speaking, with its multiplied

  • facades, its successive enrichments from the time of Charles V., the hybrid

  • excrescences, with which the fancy of the

  • architects had loaded it during the last two centuries, with all the apses of its

  • chapels, all the gables of its galleries, a thousand weathercocks for the four winds,

  • and its two lofty contiguous towers, whose

  • conical roof, surrounded by battlements at its base, looked like those pointed caps

  • which have their edges turned up.

  • Continuing to mount the stories of this amphitheatre of palaces spread out afar

  • upon the ground, after crossing a deep ravine hollowed out of the roofs in the

  • Town, which marked the passage of the Rue

  • Saint-Antoine, the eye reached the house of Angouleme, a vast construction of many

  • epochs, where there were perfectly new and very white parts, which melted no better

  • into the whole than a red patch on a blue doublet.

  • Nevertheless, the remarkably pointed and lofty roof of the modern palace, bristling

  • with carved eaves, covered with sheets of lead, where coiled a thousand fantastic

  • arabesques of sparkling incrustations of

  • gilded bronze, that roof, so curiously damascened, darted upwards gracefully from

  • the midst of the brown ruins of the ancient edifice; whose huge and ancient towers,

  • rounded by age like casks, sinking together

  • with old age, and rending themselves from top to bottom, resembled great bellies

  • unbuttoned. Behind rose the forest of spires of the

  • Palais des Tournelles.

  • Not a view in the world, either at Chambord or at the Alhambra, is more magic, more

  • aerial, more enchanting, than that thicket of spires, tiny bell towers, chimneys,

  • weather-vanes, winding staircases, lanterns

  • through which the daylight makes its way, which seem cut out at a blow, pavilions,

  • spindle-shaped turrets, or, as they were then called, "tournelles," all differing in

  • form, in height, and attitude.

  • One would have pronounced it a gigantic stone chess-board.

  • To the right of the Tournelles, that truss of enormous towers, black as ink, running

  • into each other and tied, as it were, by a circular moat; that donjon keep, much more

  • pierced with loopholes than with windows;

  • that drawbridge, always raised; that portcullis, always lowered,--is the

  • Bastille.

  • Those sorts of black beaks which project from between the battlements, and which you

  • take from a distance to be cave spouts, are cannons.

  • Beneath them, at the foot of the formidable edifice, behold the Porte Sainte-Antoine,

  • buried between its two towers.

  • Beyond the Tournelles, as far as the wall of Charles V., spread out, with rich

  • compartments of verdure and of flowers, a velvet carpet of cultivated land and royal

  • parks, in the midst of which one

  • recognized, by its labyrinth of trees and alleys, the famous Daedalus garden which

  • Louis XI. had given to Coictier.

  • The doctor's observatory rose above the labyrinth like a great isolated column,

  • with a tiny house for a capital. Terrible astrologies took place in that

  • laboratory.

  • There to-day is the Place Royale.

  • As we have just said, the quarter of the palace, of which we have just endeavored to

  • give the reader some idea by indicating only the chief points, filled the angle

  • which Charles V.'s wall made with the Seine on the east.

  • The centre of the Town was occupied by a pile of houses for the populace.

  • It was there, in fact, that the three bridges disgorged upon the right bank, and

  • bridges lead to the building of houses rather than palaces.

  • That congregation of bourgeois habitations, pressed together like the cells in a hive,

  • had a beauty of its own. It is with the roofs of a capital as with

  • the waves of the sea,--they are grand.

  • First the streets, crossed and entangled, forming a hundred amusing figures in the

  • block; around the market-place, it was like a star with a thousand rays.

  • The Rues Saint-Denis and Saint-Martin, with their innumerable ramifications, rose one

  • after the other, like trees intertwining their branches; and then the tortuous

  • lines, the Rues de la Platrerie, de la

  • Verrerie, de la Tixeranderie, etc., meandered over all.

  • There were also fine edifices which pierced the petrified undulations of that sea of

  • gables.

  • At the head of the Pont aux Changeurs, behind which one beheld the Seine foaming

  • beneath the wheels of the Pont aux Meuniers, there was the Chalelet, no longer

  • a Roman tower, as under Julian the

  • Apostate, but a feudal tower of the thirteenth century, and of a stone so hard

  • that the pickaxe could not break away so much as the thickness of the fist in a

  • space of three hours; there was the rich

  • square bell tower of Saint-Jacques de la Boucherie, with its angles all frothing

  • with carvings, already admirable, although it was not finished in the fifteenth

  • century.

  • (It lacked, in particular, the four monsters, which, still perched to-day on

  • the corners of its roof, have the air of so many sphinxes who are propounding to new

  • Paris the riddle of the ancient Paris.

  • Rault, the sculptor, only placed them in position in 1526, and received twenty

  • francs for his pains.)

  • There was the Maison-aux-Piliers, the Pillar House, opening upon that Place de

  • Greve of which we have given the reader some idea; there was Saint-Gervais, which a

  • front "in good taste" has since spoiled;

  • Saint-Mery, whose ancient pointed arches were still almost round arches; Saint-Jean,

  • whose magnificent spire was proverbial; there were twenty other monuments, which

  • did not disdain to bury their wonders in that chaos of black, deep, narrow streets.

  • Add the crosses of carved stone, more lavishly scattered through the squares than

  • even the gibbets; the cemetery of the Innocents, whose architectural wall could

  • be seen in the distance above the roofs;

  • the pillory of the Markets, whose top was visible between two chimneys of the Rue de

  • la Cossonnerie; the ladder of the Croix-du- Trahoir, in its square always black with

  • people; the circular buildings of the wheat

  • mart; the fragments of Philip Augustus's ancient wall, which could be made out here

  • and there, drowned among the houses, its towers gnawed by ivy, its gates in ruins,

  • with crumbling and deformed stretches of

  • wall; the quay with its thousand shops, and its bloody knacker's yards; the Seine

  • encumbered with boats, from the Port au Foin to Port-l'Eveque, and you will have a

  • confused picture of what the central trapezium of the Town was like in 1482.

  • With these two quarters, one of Hotels, the other of houses, the third feature of

  • aspect presented by the city was a long zone of abbeys, which bordered it in nearly

  • the whole of its circumference, from the

  • rising to the setting sun, and, behind the circle of fortifications which hemmed in

  • Paris, formed a second interior enclosure of convents and chapels.

  • Thus, immediately adjoining the park des Tournelles, between the Rue Saint-Antoine

  • and the Vielle Rue du Temple, there stood Sainte-Catherine, with its immense

  • cultivated lands, which were terminated only by the wall of Paris.

  • Between the old and the new Rue du Temple, there was the Temple, a sinister group of

  • towers, lofty, erect, and isolated in the middle of a vast, battlemented enclosure.

  • Between the Rue Neuve-du-Temple and the Rue Saint-Martin, there was the Abbey of Saint-

  • Martin, in the midst of its gardens, a superb fortified church, whose girdle of

  • towers, whose diadem of bell towers,

  • yielded in force and splendor only to Saint-Germain des Pres.

  • Between the Rue Saint-Martin and the Rue Saint-Denis, spread the enclosure of the

  • Trinite.

  • Lastly, between the Rue Saint-Denis, and the Rue Montorgueil, stood the Filles-Dieu.

  • On one side, the rotting roofs and unpaved enclosure of the Cour des Miracles could be

  • descried.

  • It was the sole profane ring which was linked to that devout chain of convents.

  • Finally, the fourth compartment, which stretched itself out in the agglomeration

  • of the roofs on the right bank, and which occupied the western angle of the

  • enclosure, and the banks of the river down

  • stream, was a fresh cluster of palaces and Hotels pressed close about the base of the

  • Louvre.

  • The old Louvre of Philip Augustus, that immense edifice whose great tower rallied

  • about it three and twenty chief towers, not to reckon the lesser towers, seemed from a

  • distance to be enshrined in the Gothic

  • roofs of the Hotel d'Alencon, and the Petit-Bourbon.

  • This hydra of towers, giant guardian of Paris, with its four and twenty heads,

  • always erect, with its monstrous haunches, loaded or scaled with slates, and all

  • streaming with metallic reflections,

  • terminated with wonderful effect the configuration of the Town towards the west.

  • Thus an immense block, which the Romans called iusula, or island, of bourgeois

  • houses, flanked on the right and the left by two blocks of palaces, crowned, the one

  • by the Louvre, the other by the Tournelles,

  • bordered on the north by a long girdle of abbeys and cultivated enclosures, all

  • amalgamated and melted together in one view; upon these thousands of edifices,

  • whose tiled and slated roofs outlined upon

  • each other so many fantastic chains, the bell towers, tattooed, fluted, and

  • ornamented with twisted bands, of the four and forty churches on the right bank;

  • myriads of cross streets; for boundary on

  • one side, an enclosure of lofty walls with square towers (that of the University had

  • round towers); on the other, the Seine, cut by bridges, and bearing on its bosom a

  • multitude of boats; behold the Town of Paris in the fifteenth century.

  • Beyond the walls, several suburban villages pressed close about the gates, but less

  • numerous and more scattered than those of the University.

  • Behind the Bastille there were twenty hovels clustered round the curious

  • sculptures of the Croix-Faubin and the flying buttresses of the Abbey of Saint-

  • Antoine des Champs; then Popincourt, lost

  • amid wheat fields; then la Courtille, a merry village of wine-shops; the hamlet of

  • Saint-Laurent with its church whose bell tower, from afar, seemed to add itself to

  • the pointed towers of the Porte Saint-

  • Martin; the Faubourg Saint-Denis, with the vast enclosure of Saint-Ladre; beyond the

  • Montmartre Gate, the Grange-Bateliere, encircled with white walls; behind it, with

  • its chalky slopes, Montmartre, which had

  • then almost as many churches as windmills, and which has kept only the windmills, for

  • society no longer demands anything but bread for the body.

  • Lastly, beyond the Louvre, the Faubourg Saint-Honore, already considerable at that

  • time, could be seen stretching away into the fields, and Petit-Bretagne gleaming

  • green, and the Marche aux Pourceaux

  • spreading abroad, in whose centre swelled the horrible apparatus used for boiling

  • counterfeiters.

  • Between la Courtille and Saint-Laurent, your eye had already noticed, on the summit

  • of an eminence crouching amid desert plains, a sort of edifice which resembled

  • from a distance a ruined colonnade, mounted

  • upon a basement with its foundation laid bare.

  • This was neither a Parthenon, nor a temple of the Olympian Jupiter.

  • It was Montfaucon.

  • Now, if the enumeration of so many edifices, summary as we have endeavored to

  • make it, has not shattered in the reader's mind the general image of old Paris, as we

  • have constructed it, we will recapitulate it in a few words.

  • In the centre, the island of the City, resembling as to form an enormous tortoise,

  • and throwing out its bridges with tiles for scales; like legs from beneath its gray

  • shell of roofs.

  • On the left, the monolithic trapezium, firm, dense, bristling, of the University;

  • on the right, the vast semicircle of the Town, much more intermixed with gardens and

  • monuments.

  • The three blocks, city, university, and town, marbled with innumerable streets.

  • Across all, the Seine, "foster-mother Seine," as says Father Du Breul, blocked

  • with islands, bridges, and boats.

  • All about an immense plain, patched with a thousand sorts of cultivated plots, sown

  • with fine villages.

  • On the left, Issy, Vanvres, Vaugirarde, Montrouge, Gentilly, with its round tower

  • and its square tower, etc.; on the right, twenty others, from Conflans to Ville-

  • l'Eveque.

  • On the horizon, a border of hills arranged in a circle like the rim of the basin.

  • Finally, far away to the east, Vincennes, and its seven quadrangular towers to the

  • south, Bicetre and its pointed turrets; to the north, Saint-Denis and its spire; to

  • the west, Saint Cloud and its donjon keep.

  • Such was the Paris which the ravens, who lived in 1482, beheld from the summits of

  • the towers of Notre-Dame.

  • Nevertheless, Voltaire said of this city, that "before Louis XIV., it possessed but

  • four fine monuments": the dome of the Sorbonne, the Val-de-Grace, the modern

  • Louvre, and I know not what the fourth was- -the Luxembourg, perhaps.

  • Fortunately, Voltaire was the author of "Candide" in spite of this, and in spite of

  • this, he is, among all the men who have followed each other in the long series of

  • humanity, the one who has best possessed the diabolical laugh.

  • Moreover, this proves that one can be a fine genius, and yet understand nothing of

  • an art to which one does not belong.

  • Did not Moliere imagine that he was doing Raphael and Michael-Angelo a very great

  • honor, by calling them "those Mignards of their age?"

  • Let us return to Paris and to the fifteenth century.

  • It was not then merely a handsome city; it was a homogeneous city, an architectural

  • and historical product of the Middle Ages, a chronicle in stone.

  • It was a city formed of two layers only; the Romanesque layer and the Gothic layer;

  • for the Roman layer had disappeared long before, with the exception of the Hot Baths

  • of Julian, where it still pierced through the thick crust of the Middle Ages.

  • As for the Celtic layer, no specimens were any longer to be found, even when sinking

  • wells.

  • Fifty years later, when the Renaissance began to mingle with this unity which was

  • so severe and yet so varied, the dazzling luxury of its fantasies and systems, its

  • debasements of Roman round arches, Greek

  • columns, and Gothic bases, its sculpture which was so tender and so ideal, its

  • peculiar taste for arabesques and acanthus leaves, its architectural paganism,

  • contemporary with Luther, Paris, was

  • perhaps, still more beautiful, although less harmonious to the eye, and to the

  • thought.

  • But this splendid moment lasted only for a short time; the Renaissance was not

  • impartial; it did not content itself with building, it wished to destroy; it is true

  • that it required the room.

  • Thus Gothic Paris was complete only for a moment.

  • Saint-Jacques de la Boucherie had barely been completed when the demolition of the

  • old Louvre was begun.

  • After that, the great city became more disfigured every day.

  • Gothic Paris, beneath which Roman Paris was effaced, was effaced in its turn; but can

  • any one say what Paris has replaced it?

  • There is the Paris of Catherine de Medicis at the Tuileries;--the Paris of Henri II.,

  • at the Hotel de Ville, two edifices still in fine taste;--the Paris of Henri IV., at

  • the Place Royale: facades of brick with

  • stone corners, and slated roofs, tri- colored houses;--the Paris of Louis XIII.,

  • at the Val-de-Grace: a crushed and squat architecture, with vaults like basket-

  • handles, and something indescribably pot-

  • bellied in the column, and thickset in the dome;--the Paris of Louis XIV., in the

  • Invalides: grand, rich, gilded, cold;--the Paris of Louis XV., in Saint-Sulpice:

  • volutes, knots of ribbon, clouds,

  • vermicelli and chiccory leaves, all in stone;--the Paris of Louis XVI., in the

  • Pantheon: Saint Peter of Rome, badly copied (the edifice is awkwardly heaped together,

  • which has not amended its lines);--the

  • Paris of the Republic, in the School of Medicine: a poor Greek and Roman taste,

  • which resembles the Coliseum or the Parthenon as the constitution of the year

  • III., resembles the laws of Minos,--it is

  • called in architecture, "the Messidor" taste;--the Paris of Napoleon in the Place

  • Vendome: this one is sublime, a column of bronze made of cannons;--the Paris of the

  • Restoration, at the Bourse: a very white

  • colonnade supporting a very smooth frieze; the whole is square and cost twenty

  • millions.

  • To each of these characteristic monuments there is attached by a similarity of taste,

  • fashion, and attitude, a certain number of houses scattered about in different

  • quarters and which the eyes of the

  • connoisseur easily distinguishes and furnishes with a date.

  • When one knows how to look, one finds the spirit of a century, and the physiognomy of

  • a king, even in the knocker on a door.

  • The Paris of the present day has then, no general physiognomy.

  • It is a collection of specimens of many centuries, and the finest have disappeared.

  • The capital grows only in houses, and what houses!

  • At the rate at which Paris is now proceeding, it will renew itself every

  • fifty years.

  • Thus the historical significance of its architecture is being effaced every day.

  • Monuments are becoming rarer and rarer, and one seems to see them gradually engulfed,

  • by the flood of houses.

  • Our fathers had a Paris of stone; our sons will have one of plaster.

  • So far as the modern monuments of new Paris are concerned, we would gladly be excused

  • from mentioning them.

  • It is not that we do not admire them as they deserve.

  • The Sainte-Genevieve of M. Soufflot is certainly the finest Savoy cake that has

  • ever been made in stone.

  • The Palace of the Legion of Honor is also a very distinguished bit of pastry.

  • The dome of the wheat market is an English jockey cap, on a grand scale.

  • The towers of Saint-Sulpice are two huge clarinets, and the form is as good as any

  • other; the telegraph, contorted and grimacing, forms an admirable accident upon

  • their roofs.

  • Saint-Roch has a door which, for magnificence, is comparable only to that of

  • Saint-Thomas d'Aquin. It has, also, a crucifixion in high relief,

  • in a cellar, with a sun of gilded wood.

  • These things are fairly marvellous. The lantern of the labyrinth of the Jardin

  • des Plantes is also very ingenious.

  • As for the Palace of the Bourse, which is Greek as to its colonnade, Roman in the

  • round arches of its doors and windows, of the Renaissance by virtue of its flattened

  • vault, it is indubitably a very correct and

  • very pure monument; the proof is that it is crowned with an attic, such as was never

  • seen in Athens, a beautiful, straight line, gracefully broken here and there by

  • stovepipes.

  • Let us add that if it is according to rule that the architecture of a building should

  • be adapted to its purpose in such a manner that this purpose shall be immediately

  • apparent from the mere aspect of the

  • building, one cannot be too much amazed at a structure which might be indifferently--

  • the palace of a king, a chamber of communes, a town-hall, a college, a riding-

  • school, an academy, a warehouse, a court-

  • house, a museum, a barracks, a sepulchre, a temple, or a theatre.

  • However, it is an Exchange. An edifice ought to be, moreover, suitable

  • to the climate.

  • This one is evidently constructed expressly for our cold and rainy skies.

  • It has a roof almost as flat as roofs in the East, which involves sweeping the roof

  • in winter, when it snows; and of course roofs are made to be swept.

  • As for its purpose, of which we just spoke, it fulfils it to a marvel; it is a bourse

  • in France as it would have been a temple in Greece.

  • It is true that the architect was at a good deal of trouble to conceal the clock face,

  • which would have destroyed the purity of the fine lines of the facade; but, on the

  • other hand, we have that colonnade which

  • circles round the edifice and under which, on days of high religious ceremony, the

  • theories of the stock-brokers and the courtiers of commerce can be developed so

  • majestically.

  • These are very superb structures.

  • Let us add a quantity of fine, amusing, and varied streets, like the Rue de Rivoli, and

  • I do not despair of Paris presenting to the eye, when viewed from a balloon, that

  • richness of line, that opulence of detail,

  • that diversity of aspect, that grandiose something in the simple, and unexpected in

  • the beautiful, which characterizes a checker-board.

  • However, admirable as the Paris of to-day may seem to you, reconstruct the Paris of

  • the fifteenth century, call it up before you in thought; look at the sky athwart

  • that surprising forest of spires, towers,

  • and belfries; spread out in the centre of the city, tear away at the point of the

  • islands, fold at the arches of the bridges, the Seine, with its broad green and yellow

  • expanses, more variable than the skin of a

  • serpent; project clearly against an azure horizon the Gothic profile of this ancient

  • Paris.

  • Make its contour float in a winter's mist which clings to its numerous chimneys;

  • drown it in profound night and watch the odd play of lights and shadows in that

  • sombre labyrinth of edifices; cast upon it

  • a ray of light which shall vaguely outline it and cause to emerge from the fog the

  • great heads of the towers; or take that black silhouette again, enliven with shadow

  • the thousand acute angles of the spires and

  • gables, and make it start out more toothed than a shark's jaw against a copper-colored

  • western sky,--and then compare.

  • And if you wish to receive of the ancient city an impression with which the modern

  • one can no longer furnish you, climb--on the morning of some grand festival, beneath

  • the rising sun of Easter or of Pentecost--

  • climb upon some elevated point, whence you command the entire capital; and be present

  • at the wakening of the chimes.

  • Behold, at a signal given from heaven, for it is the sun which gives it, all those

  • churches quiver simultaneously.

  • First come scattered strokes, running from one church to another, as when musicians

  • give warning that they are about to begin.

  • Then, all at once, behold!--for it seems at times, as though the ear also possessed a

  • sight of its own,--behold, rising from each bell tower, something like a column of

  • sound, a cloud of harmony.

  • First, the vibration of each bell mounts straight upwards, pure and, so to speak,

  • isolated from the others, into the splendid morning sky; then, little by little, as

  • they swell they melt together, mingle, are

  • lost in each other, and amalgamate in a magnificent concert.

  • It is no longer anything but a mass of sonorous vibrations incessantly sent forth

  • from the numerous belfries; floats, undulates, bounds, whirls over the city,

  • and prolongs far beyond the horizon the deafening circle of its oscillations.

  • Nevertheless, this sea of harmony is not a chaos; great and profound as it is, it has

  • not lost its transparency; you behold the windings of each group of notes which

  • escapes from the belfries.

  • You can follow the dialogue, by turns grave and shrill, of the treble and the bass; you

  • can see the octaves leap from one tower to another; you watch them spring forth,

  • winged, light, and whistling, from the

  • silver bell, to fall, broken and limping from the bell of wood; you admire in their

  • midst the rich gamut which incessantly ascends and re-ascends the seven bells of

  • Saint-Eustache; you see light and rapid

  • notes running across it, executing three or four luminous zigzags, and vanishing like

  • flashes of lightning.

  • Yonder is the Abbey of Saint-Martin, a shrill, cracked singer; here the gruff and

  • gloomy voice of the Bastille; at the other end, the great tower of the Louvre, with

  • its bass.

  • The royal chime of the palace scatters on all sides, and without relaxation,

  • resplendent trills, upon which fall, at regular intervals, the heavy strokes from

  • the belfry of Notre-Dame, which makes them sparkle like the anvil under the hammer.

  • At intervals you behold the passage of sounds of all forms which come from the

  • triple peal of Saint-Germaine des Pres.

  • Then, again, from time to time, this mass of sublime noises opens and gives passage

  • to the beats of the Ave Maria, which bursts forth and sparkles like an aigrette of

  • stars.

  • Below, in the very depths of the concert, you confusedly distinguish the interior

  • chanting of the churches, which exhales through the vibrating pores of their

  • vaulted roofs.

  • Assuredly, this is an opera which it is worth the trouble of listening to.

  • Ordinarily, the noise which escapes from Paris by day is the city speaking; by

  • night, it is the city breathing; in this case, it is the city singing.

  • Lend an ear, then, to this concert of bell towers; spread over all the murmur of half

  • a million men, the eternal plaint of the river, the infinite breathings of the wind,

  • the grave and distant quartette of the four

  • forests arranged upon the hills, on the horizon, like immense stacks of organ

  • pipes; extinguish, as in a half shade, all that is too hoarse and too shrill about the

  • central chime, and say whether you know

  • anything in the world more rich and joyful, more golden, more dazzling, than this

  • tumult of bells and chimes;--than this furnace of music,--than these ten thousand

  • brazen voices chanting simultaneously in

  • the flutes of stone, three hundred feet high,--than this city which is no longer

  • anything but an orchestra,--than this symphony which produces the noise of a

  • tempest.

BOOK THIRD. CHAPTER I.

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