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  • Avocado has become one of the world's trendiest foods.

    酪梨已成為世界上最時尚的食物之一。

  • As the poster child of millennial healthy eating,

    做為千禧世代健康飲食的典範

  • this superfood is now a mainstay for foodies everywhere.

    這種超級食物,現已成為世界各地美食家不可或缺的食材。

  • But have you noticed your avo on toast

    但是,你是否注意到塗在麵包上的酪梨抹醬

  • is costing more and more?

    已經愈來愈貴了?

  • Avocado prices have rocketed in recent years by up to 129%,

    酪梨價格近年來已飆升了 129%

  • with the average national price of a single Hass avocado

    2019 年哈斯酪梨的全國平均價格

  • reaching $2.10 in 2019, almost doubling in just one year.

    達到 2.10 美元一顆,在短短一年內幾乎翻了一倍。

  • So, why are avocados so expensive?

    那麼,為什麼酪梨這麼貴?

  • Archaeologists in Peru have found domesticated avocado seeds

    秘魯的考古學家發現了西元前 750 年,和印加木乃伊埋在一起

  • buried with Incan mummies dating back to 750 BC.

    人工培育出的酪梨種子。

  • But it was the Aztecs in 500 BC who named it āhuacatl,

    但是,在西元前 500 年的阿茲特克人將其命名為 āhuacatl

  • which translates to "testicle."

    意思是「睾丸」。

  • When Spanish conquistadors swept through Mexico

    16 世紀西班牙人征服墨西哥

  • and Central America in the 16th century,

    和中美洲時

  • they renamed it aguacate.

    將酪梨重新命名為 aguacate。

  • The farming of aguacate developed

    接下來的幾百年

  • over the next few hundred years,

    酪梨的種植蓬勃發展於

  • predominantly in Central America and South America.

    中美洲和南美洲。

  • But consumption of the "alligator pear"

    但在十九世纪末以前

  • outside of these regions before the late 19th century

    中南美洲以外的地區,幾乎沒有人食用

  • was almost nonexistent.

    當時稱為的「鱷梨」的酪梨。

  • The commercialization of aguacate began in the early 1900s

    酪梨的商業化始於二十世紀初

  • but was focused on branding avocados as a delicacy

    但當時是將酪梨塑造為有錢人的美味佳餚

  • for the wealthy, like this advert in The New Yorker

    就像這則 1920 年刊登在「紐約客」雜誌的廣告

  • from 1920, which declared them as

    宣稱酪梨是

  • "The aristocrat of salad fruit."

    「水果中的貴族」。

  • But a selection of Californian growers realized

    但是一些美國加州的種植者意識到

  • that the hard-to-pronounce aguacate was off-putting

    酪梨的西語發音「aguacate」很難唸,不利於推廣到

  • for the mass market, so they formed

    大眾市場,於是他們成立了

  • the California Avocado Association.

    「加州酪梨協會」。

  • By the 1950s, production scale grew,

    到了 1950 年代,酪梨生產規模擴大

  • and avocado prices fell to about 25 cents each.

    價格跌至約 25 美分一個。

  • Popularity increased further with the wave

    1960 年代,隨著拉丁美洲人到美國的移民浪潮

  • of inter-American immigration in the '60s,

    他們將熱愛的酪梨

  • as Latin Americans brought their love of avocados

    也帶到了美國,於是酪梨變得

  • with them to the US.

    愈來愈受歡迎。

  • But as demand increased, supply had to keep up,

    但随着需求的增加,供給也必須跟上

  • and the true difficulties of yielding large-scale

    大規模種植酪梨的困難

  • avocado crops began to show.

    這時開始顯現出來。

  • Avocado orchards require an extraordinary amount

    酪梨果園要蓬勃發展

  • of costly resources in order to flourish.

    必須投入昂貴的成本及資源。

  • Gus Gunderson: There are multiple inputs

    Gus Gunderson:種植酪梨需要

  • that avocados require,

    多方面的投入

  • whether it's water, fertilizer, pruning, pest control,

    舉凡灌溉、施肥、修剪、預防蟲害

  • the sunburn protection of trees.

    樹木的防曬保護等。

  • All those go into making your chances better

    所有這一切,都是使你種出

  • of having a very good-quality crop.

    優質酪梨所必需付出的。

  • When we decide to plant an avocado orchard,

    當我們決定開闢酪梨園時

  • we'll plant trees that come from certified nurseries.

    我們栽種的樹苗都是來自於通過認證的苗圃。

  • We have to place our orders years in advance.

    我們必須得提前幾年下訂單。

  • On average, if we're producing 100,000 pounds per acre,

    平均來說,如果我們每英畝生產 10 萬磅酪梨

  • that takes about a million gallons of water,

    大约需要 100 萬加侖的水

  • so 100 gallons per pound,

    所以每磅需要 100 加侖

  • so it'd be about 50 gallons per 8-ounce fruit.

    每 8盎 司果實,大约需要 50 加侖的水。

  • But that's dependent on what mother nature

    但這還得看老天會賜給你什麼

  • will throw at you, you know, we have wind,

    你知道,有強風

  • we have intense sun.

    有烈日。

  • It's really hard for a grower to manage

    對一個種植者來說

  • the unmanageable things that will affect a crop.

    要處理那些影響收成,又非我們可掌控的事,是非常困難的。

  • Narrator: The surge in popularity of avocados

    旁白:酪梨的流行

  • stalled during the fat-fighting frenzy of the 1980s,

    在 1980 年代的抗脂熱潮中停滯不前

  • with an average of only 1 pound per capita

    1989 年,美國的人均消費量

  • being consumed in America by 1989.

    僅 1 磅。

  • The decade's low-fat obsession drove consumers

    因為酪梨含脂量很高

  • away from avocado because of its high fat content,

    十餘年來的低脂飲食迷思,使得消費者遠離酪梨

  • without really understanding

    而無法真正了解

  • the nutritional truth hidden within.

    酪梨的營養價值。

  • Hazel Wallace: When it comes to fat in food in general,

    Hazel Wallace: 一般來說,當談到食物中的脂肪時

  • people tend to get a little bit concerned

    人們通常會有點擔心

  • because we often hear in the media

    因為我們經常從媒體

  • that fat isn't good for us.

    得知脂肪對健康是不好的。

  • But the type of fat that's in avocados

    但是,酪梨中的脂肪類型

  • is monounsaturated fat, which is actually often deemed

    是單元不飽和脂肪,事實上通常被認為是

  • healthy fat or heart-healthy fat,

    健康的脂肪,或是有益於心臟的脂肪

  • so while there is a lot of fat in avocados,

    所以雖然酪梨含有大量的脂肪

  • it's actually quite good fat.

    實際上卻是相當好的脂肪。

  • Avocado started its meteoric comeback

    得助於一個意想不到的政治決定

  • at the turn of the millennium, and it was helped

    酪梨在千禧年之初

  • by an unlikely political decision.

    迅速地捲土重來。

  • In 2005, the US Department of Agriculture

    2005 年,美國農業部

  • lifted a 90-year-old ban to allow the importation

    取消了一項實施了 90 年的禁令,允許全美 50 個州

  • of Mexican avocados to all 50 states.

    可以進口墨西哥酪梨。

  • Initially, this decision angered Californian growers,

    最初,這一決定激怒了加州的酪梨農夫

  • who feared the move could slash local growers' sales

    他們擔心此舉將使當地種植的酪梨銷量

  • by as much as 20%.

    減少 20% 。

  • What actually had transpired and took place

    但真正的情況卻是

  • was, as that Mexican supply became much more

    隨著墨西哥酪梨的供給變得越來越普及

  • prevalent and available, retailers got behind

    和更容易買得到,零售商銷售酪梨

  • marketing and selling avocados,

    變得供不應求

  • food service providers, restaurants started putting it

    食品供應商,餐館,開始將酪梨放入

  • as permanent parts of their menus,

    經常性的菜單之中

  • and demand started to boom

    酪梨的需求暴增

  • because the inconsistent supply chains before

    因為以前有不同的供應商,現在則是

  • were now consistent, and consumers were allowed

    可以統一自墨西哥進口,所以消費者一年四季

  • to enjoy avocados every day of the year.

    都可以享用酪梨。

  • Narrator: The biggest day of the avocado calendar

    旁白:在酪梨銷售日曆中

  • became Super Bowl Sunday, when it's now estimated

    最重要的一天是美式足球「超級杯星期天」,據估計

  • that almost 200 million pounds of avocados

    在這場重要的比賽中

  • are eaten during the big game in America.

    將近有 2 億磅的酪梨被吃掉。

  • But if you take a moment to consider

    但是,如果你能花一點時間去細想

  • the resources needed to produce that amount,

    生產這麼大數量所需的資源

  • you can start to understand avocados' elevated prices.

    你就可以了解酪梨價格飆漲的原因了。

  • According to experts, it takes roughly 270 liters of water

    據專家稱,種植一磅酪梨

  • to grow a pound of avocados.

    大約需要 270 公升的水。

  • So 200 million pounds could require

    因此,2 億磅可能需要

  • as much as 54 billion liters of water,

    多達 540 億公升的水

  • which means droughts or heat waves can have

    這意味著乾旱或酷暑可能會對酪梨產業

  • devastating consequences on the avocado industry.

    造成毀滅性的後果。

  • In fact, that's exactly what's been happening in California

    事實上,這正是過去七年來發生在

  • for the last seven years, with the Sunshine State

    加州的事情,這個陽光之州

  • only recently being declared drought-free in 2019,

    直到 2019 年才被宣佈乾旱解除

  • which goes a long way to explaining record avocado prices.

    這正足以解釋了酪梨價格創歷史新高的原因。

  • In some countries, like Chile, avocado cultivation

    在一些國家,像是智利,酪梨種植被指責是

  • is being blamed for exacerbating droughts,

    造成乾旱加劇的罪魁禍首

  • as lush green orchards overlook dry riverbeds.

    因為從鬱鬱蔥蔥的酪梨園看下去,盡是乾涸的河床。

  • Perhaps the biggest reason for avocados' rise to dominance

    或許,酪梨之所以成為霸主

  • is the emergence of the clean-eating lifestyle.

    最大的原因是健康飲食生活方式的興起

  • No longer just a chip dip for special occasions,

    它不再僅僅是特殊場合下才拿來使用的沾醬

  • this superfood can be found in a plethora of recipes

    在世界各地的咖啡館和眾多食譜中

  • in cafés and restaurants everywhere around the world.

    都可以找到這種超級食品。

  • And those who are eating them are really keen

    那些正在吃它們的人

  • for you to know about it.

    真的很想推薦給你。

  • Just type #avocado into Instagram, and you'll be hit

    只要在 Instagram 中輸入 #avocado,你就會得到

  • with over 10 million search results.

    超過 1000 萬筆的搜索结果。

  • But is the glorification of avocado justified?

    但是,酪梨擁有如此殊榮合理嗎?

  • There's quite a big hype around avocados,

    酪梨的確有很大的炒作成分

  • but it actually is quite justified when it comes

    但是當談到到這種食物的高營養價值時

  • to how nutrient-dense this food is.

    它被如此推崇就很合理了。

  • There's not many foods that actually replicate it

    在營養方面,沒有多少食物

  • in terms of a nutritional profile.

    能真正比得上它。

  • When it comes to calling something a superfood,

    至於把某種食物稱之為超級食物

  • I'm not really for that label.

    我真的不喜歡給它貼上這個標籤。

  • Avocados are definitely a good food

    酪梨絕對是值得你放在日常飲食中

  • to include in your diet, but like I said,

    的好食物,但就像我所說的

  • you're not really missing out if you don't like them

    如果你不喜歡酪梨,或因任何原因

  • or if you can't eat them for any reason.

    無法食用它,你也不會真的錯過它。

  • Monounsaturated fats, we can find that in things

    因為酪梨含有的單元不飽和脂肪,我們可以在

  • like olive oil and olive, nuts, and seeds.

    橄欖油、橄欖、堅果和種子中找到。

  • The vitamins and minerals, we can find that

    它含有的維生素和礦物質,我們可以在

  • in other green vegetables, so spinach and broccoli

    其他綠色蔬菜中找到,例如菠菜

  • and things like that.

    和花椰菜等。

  • So there's ways of getting those nutrients in

    因此,即便不吃酪梨也有很多方式

  • without having avocado.

    可以攝取到這些營養。

  • All of this produce requires

    所有這些產品

  • an astonishing amount of labor.

    都需要大量的勞工。

  • Even once grown, pruned, and picked,

    酪梨經過種植、修剪和採摘後

  • avocados need costly distribution methods

    仍需要透過昂貴的配銷方式

  • in order to be delivered fresh and ripe

    才能將新鮮成熟的酪梨

  • to far-flung corners of the world.

    運送到世界各個角落。

  • If you're living in Philadelphia, right?

    如果你住在費城,對吧?

  • You wanna buy a ripe avocado in Philadelphia?

    你想在費城買到成熟的酪梨嗎?

  • What they do is they ship green avocados

    他們的做法是將尚未成熟的酪梨

  • from California to Philadelphia,

    從加州運到費城

  • they send them to the ripening center,

    將它們送到催熟中心

  • they warm them up and get ethylene in them,

    將它們放在溫暖之處,用乙烯加以催熟

  • so they all ripen, and then,

    這樣它們就全部熟成了,然後

  • when they're moved out to the retail stores,

    當它們被運送到零售店時

  • you're actually buying something

    你實際上買到的就是

  • that's almost ready to eat or ready to eat.

    幾乎可以立即食用,或是已經可以立即食用的酪梨

  • Cause if you were to buy a green avocado that's shipped

    因為如果你買的是從加州直接運到

  • straight from California to your market,

    你住所附近的市場尚未成熟的酪梨

  • you would have to ripen it yourself

    那麼你必需再放置 7 到 10 天

  • over a seven- to 10-day period,

    等待它熟成

  • and most consumers are a little more anxious

    但大多數消費者對酪梨吐司的渴望

  • for their avocado toast than waiting 10 days. [laughs]

    是無法忍受再等個 10 天的。 (笑)

  • Narrator: With prices so high, the commodity of avocados

    旁白:由於價格高昂,酪梨這項商品

  • has attracted a spate of thefts from orchards

    吸引了全球小偷的覬覦

  • and delivery trucks worldwide.

    從果園一直偷到送貨卡車。

  • In New Zealand, armed night patrols and electric fences

    在紐西蘭北島的一個果園

  • have been introduced after a grower in Northland

    有 70% 酪梨被盜之後,果農就引進了武裝夜間巡邏

  • had 70% of his orchard stolen.

    和通電圍籬。

  • There's even further grim reading for avocado lovers.

    對酪梨愛好者而言,還有更可怕的消息。

  • In Michoacán, where 80% of Mexico's avocados originate,

    在墨西哥 80% 酪梨的產地 Michoacán

  • cartels run a so-called "blood avocado" trade,

    利益集團壟斷了市場,從事所謂的「血酪梨」交易

  • violently enforcing a nonnegotiable extortion fee

    他們根據酪農的土地面積

  • from farmers based on the size of their land

    和農作物的重量,對酪農強加勒索

  • and the weight of their crop.

    保護費。

  • Some restaurants have begun an avocado boycott,

    一些餐館已開始抵制酪梨

  • as we all weigh the ethics behind our eating habits.

    因為在飲食習慣背後,還有我們的道德價值。

  • Experts suggest that water shortages

    專家們認為,到了 2050 年

  • could affect 5 billion people by 2050,

    可能會有 50 億人口受到缺水問題影響

  • and rainfall in the so-called drought belt,

    包括墨西哥和南美在內的

  • which includes Mexico and South America,

    所謂乾旱帶的降雨

  • is predicted to decline.

    預計將會減少。

  • But whilst evidence of environmental degradation

    但是,儘管越來越多的證據顯示

  • is mounting, the avocado industry is still growing

    環境正在惡化,酪梨產業仍隨著消費需求增加

  • along with consumer demand.

    而成長。

  • In certain places, the sustainability of avocado production

    在某些地方,酪梨暢銷的地位將仍

  • will become untenable.

    然屹立不搖。

Avocado has become one of the world's trendiest foods.

酪梨已成為世界上最時尚的食物之一。

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