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  • -Hi, I'm Rick Steves.

  • I've spent the last 30 years

  • exploring Europe from every conceivable angle,

  • and now it's time to check it out

  • the way millions of people are.

  • Yep, we're on a cruise ship,

  • and we're sailing the Mediterranean.

  • Welcome aboard.

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • Cruising is really popular these days.

  • In this special, I'd like to explore the ins and outs

  • and pros and cons of this travel option.

  • Sailing from Barcelona to Athens with stops all along the way,

  • I'll toggle from a floating resort

  • to exciting days on shore,

  • nearly each day in a different country.

  • Massive cruise ships serve as both transportation

  • and a floating hotel.

  • From our ship, we'll visit some of the great ports

  • of the Mediterranean

  • and venture inland to some of Europe's iconic sights.

  • We'll savor romantic island getaways

  • and some lazy time on the beach.

  • We'll learn how to make the most of the cruising experience --

  • avoiding lines, eating quick but local --

  • while exercising independence

  • to get the most out of limited time on shore.

  • Along with the efficiencies of cruising,

  • we'll show the downsides --

  • the inevitable congestion and commercialization

  • that comes with mass tourism.

  • And as we sail from port to port,

  • we'll enjoy our time on board the ship --

  • a virtual playground at sea.

  • The Mediterranean Sea is bounded by North Africa,

  • Europe, and the Middle East.

  • The typical cruise itinerary covers the great European ports.

  • While most cruises focus on either the West or the East,

  • we'll do a little of both.

  • Stopping in Barcelona, Nice for the French Riviera,

  • La Spezia for Florence, Civitavecchia for Rome,

  • Naples, Malta,

  • Athens, Mykonos,

  • and Santorini.

  • I'm not here to promote or put down cruising.

  • For some people, it's a great choice.

  • And for others it's not.

  • Cruising can be economical, with your transportation,

  • room, and meals all included at one price.

  • It can be ideal for those who want everything taken care of

  • for their vacation,

  • and it can also be an efficient platform

  • for independent types who want to shape their own adventures

  • each day.

  • While there may be a lot of things to enjoy on the ship,

  • the reason I cruise the Mediterranean

  • is to experience the Mediterranean.

  • The Mediterranean world is filled with wonder

  • and richly rewards the well-organized traveler.

  • The cultural variety seems endless

  • and it shows itself in traditions, cuisines,

  • and a distinctive love of life.

  • For thousands of years,

  • this was the center of Western Civilization.

  • Exploring the Mediterranean,

  • you'll enjoy the sweep of art history --

  • from ancient treasures to the dazzling accomplishments

  • of the Renaissance to modern wonders.

  • And it's just flat-out beautiful.

  • No wonder the rich and fabulous

  • have built their palaces and villas here

  • since ancient times.

  • The cruiser's challenge is to decide

  • how to best experience all these attractions.

  • Your goal: to get the most out

  • of your vacation time and money,

  • enjoy the best experiences,

  • and have fun.

  • Before we sight-see the greatest hits of the Mediterranean,

  • let's get an overview of cruising in general.

  • Ships can be huge.

  • Ours has about 3,000 passengers with 1,500 crew

  • scrambling to keep everyone well-served, safe, and happy.

  • Is it good travel? That's up to you.

  • The way I see it, of the guests on this ship,

  • a third of them are just looking for

  • a floating alternative to Las Vegas.

  • A third of them are "bucket list" tourists

  • just checking things off their list,

  • and a third of them are independent-minded travelers

  • well-prepared and eager to hit the ground running

  • as soon as that gangway hits the pier.

  • Cruising originated as an activity for the wealthy --

  • it was expensive and formal.

  • The joke was it was for "the newlyweds, over-fed,

  • and nearly dead."

  • But, as ships get bigger and bigger,

  • able to offer comforts unimaginable in decades past,

  • cruising has changed its image.

  • Today, it's younger, more active,

  • and more affordable.

  • Most Mediterranean cruises start and end in Venice, Rome,

  • or Barcelona.

  • Wherever you start, you'll need to be patient.

  • This is your first peek at the necessary efficiency

  • of the cruise industry.

  • It's a big logistical challenge to get several thousand people

  • and their bags into their staterooms on the first day.

  • Pack a little extra patience

  • and leave yourself plenty of time

  • for the red tape and orientation.

  • Once on board, I do one thing right off the bat:

  • move in thoroughly.

  • Staterooms, while thoughtfully designed, are tight,

  • so make things shipshape.

  • If you use all your available storage space

  • and are constantly on guard against clutter,

  • there's plenty of room.

  • I rarely use drawers in hotel rooms,

  • but this is my home for my entire vacation.

  • You just move in once, so do it right away,

  • move in fully, and establish your ship-shape standards.

  • On a cruise, you can get away with packing heavier.

  • I bring more clothes than usual.

  • How dressy you need to be

  • is a matter of which cruise line you choose

  • and your personal style.

  • As cruising has become accessible to the middle class,

  • it's also become more casual.

  • This is as dressy as I get.

  • Most people pack three kinds of outfits:

  • smart casual for evenings,

  • leisure wear for poolside and relaxing on the ship,

  • and practical travel clothing for time on shore.

  • Okay, I've moved in and we're on our way.

  • We'll be in the French Riviera in the morning.

  • We're settling into the rhythm of a Mediterranean cruise --

  • sail at night and explore a different port each day.

  • By the way, have some fun with the key nautical terms.

  • I'm standing near the front -- that's the bow.

  • The back? It's the stern.

  • Left: port, and right is starboard.

  • And remember, it's not a "boat,"

  • it's a "ship."

  • For me, just "being at sea" is a travel destination.

  • After our first departure, or "sail-away,"

  • I find myself thinking of the Mediterranean

  • as a sight in itself.

  • Make a point on departure day

  • to get to know your floating home.

  • Take advantage of the signage to understand the layout.

  • Modern ships are smartly designed.

  • This ship has 1,500 staterooms on 12 decks

  • gathered around a central atrium

  • where you'll find places to shop, hang out, eat, and drink.

  • ♪♪

  • Explore the ship on a good orientation walk.

  • The library is generally quiet and empty.

  • The gym comes with amazing views.

  • You'll discover places -- like tucked-away lounges --

  • that others may miss.

  • In this floating resort,

  • the top deck -- with its swimming pool --

  • is the equivalent of the beach.

  • When it comes to fun-in-the-sun,

  • poolside seems to be the center of the universe.

  • But if you crave the tranquility of a park,

  • this ship has actual grass.

  • I don't know what happened to shuffleboard,

  • but a little bocce ball will do just fine.

  • Each morning, the deck is busy with walkers --

  • eight laps and it's a mile.

  • Being confined on a ship, it's important to stay active.

  • I make a pact: anticipating lots of eating,

  • I shall avoid the elevators and use the stairs instead.

  • They say the average cruise passenger gains a pound a day,

  • but not me.

  • Cruising can work well for families

  • and for groups traveling together.

  • Each person can pick and choose how much to see and do

  • both on land and at sea,

  • and still get together for dinner every evening.

  • And cruising also works for people who can't walk well

  • or who are less active --

  • the entire ship is as accessible as any modern resort.

  • Along with the advantages, cruising has its downsides.

  • Many would say it can insulate you from the "real Europe."

  • You're going to the most famous places

  • and seeing them at the same time

  • with thousands of other tourists.

  • That's just the nature of cruising.

  • Those who don't make a concerted effort at minimizing the crowds

  • may come home with memories of congestion

  • and lots of wasted time.

  • Cruise ships drop large numbers of people in the same place

  • at the same time.

  • Small ports can be overwhelmed by crowds

  • when the ship's in port,

  • even worse when several ships are there on the same day.

  • And then, when the ships sail away,

  • the port suddenly becomes less crowded and more romantic --

  • something cruisers won't experience

  • because they're back on the ship heading to the next port.

  • Many cruisers are not very energetic sightseers.

  • If you are, get out early as possible

  • and come back late as you can.

  • Doing this, you'll enjoy fewer crowds

  • and more unforgettable moments.

  • With each port, you've got sightseeing options:

  • You can take the organized bus tour

  • and be on their time table,

  • or you can hire a private guide.

  • You can use a guidebook and be your own guide,

  • or you can just hang out and be thoroughly on vacation.

  • There's no right or wrong --

  • it depends on your mood and your style.

  • Many cruise travelers

  • invest in the cruise line's shore excursions.

  • Excursions can be active or easy,

  • fully guided,

  • or just providing transportation and free time.

  • While pricey,

  • they can also be a time- and cost-effective way

  • to cover those must-see sights and experiences.

  • And there's usually a bus tour option

  • designed for people with limited mobility.

  • But as these tours target the touristy clichés

  • and many buses hit the same sites at the same time,

  • you'll often be right in the thick of the crowds.

  • If you're not purchasing the cruise ship sightseeing package,

  • you've got an array of fine alternatives.

  • Mediterranean ports seem to be designed

  • as springboards for independent travelers.

  • In most port terminals, you'll find reputable local companies

  • offering essentially the same tours as the cruise lines

  • for a fraction of the cost.

  • Another option: book a private guide in advance.

  • It's a comfort to be met at the port

  • with a warm, personal welcome.

  • Legions of private guides earn their living

  • serving cruisers directly.

  • You can book a guide and share the cost --

  • four people hiring a guide with a car

  • costs about the same

  • as four people taking the cruise excursion.

  • And with a guide, you get your own private teacher,

  • you're sure to know the way to the summit,

  • and you enjoy the freedom to go at your own pace.

  • And you can simply be your own guide.

  • You'll find helpful tourist offices.

  • And, most ports are well-served by public transit.

  • Independent types and those on a tight budget

  • can use a guidebook.

  • There are handy guidebooks

  • designed to help you get the most out of your time in port.

  • And, taking advantage of apps

  • featuring self-guided walks on your smartphone

  • empowers the independent traveler

  • with plenty of good touring information.

  • In many big cities,

  • hop-on, hop-off companies offer do-it-yourselfers

  • economic and efficient transportation.

  • Buses meet the cruise ships at the port

  • and offer big loop tours connecting major sights,

  • letting you hop off and on all day long,

  • and dropping you back at the port.

  • And finally, you're on vacation.

  • You have the option to do nothing.

  • Anyone can simply walk or catch a ride in to the town center

  • and just delight in a free day --

  • shopping, browsing, sipping a local drink,

  • or soaking up some sun on the beach.

  • ♪♪

  • [ Laughter ]

  • Because ships sail at night,

  • you rarely enjoy a characteristic dinner on shore

  • or the romance of a town after dark.

  • Having said that, I enjoy the evenings

  • on the ship -- hanging out with new friends

  • and thinking about tomorrow's destination.

  • So, tomorrow, it's the French Riviera.

  • The cruise line sells a selection of excursions

  • for every port.

  • Early on, it's good to review what's offered,

  • decide which tours -- if any -- are right for you,

  • and book them.

  • The excursion desk is dedicated to explaining

  • and selling the many onshore tours and activities.

  • For the eager students,

  • some ships offer a talk each evening

  • to preview the next day's sightseeing options

  • and to promote their tours. -Our mission --

  • that you enjoy every port of call to the maximum. Yes?

  • -Arriving at our first port, with its blue or azure waters,

  • it's clear why France's Riviera is nicknamed the Cote d'Azur.

  • Cruise ships stop in one of three ports --

  • Nice...

  • Monaco...

  • or Villefranche.

  • Each is a delight to explore,

  • a short ride apart by train --

  • and today, we'll see them all.

  • Villefranche has a fine harbor,

  • but it doesn't have a dock big enough for a cruise ship.

  • So, we're dropping the hook and getting ashore

  • in a small boat called a "tender."

  • ♪♪

  • Be sure you understand exactly what time

  • the last tender shuttles back to the ship.

  • Today, it's 4:30.

  • The French Riviera lends itself to independent touring.

  • I love Villefranche,

  • but to be sure we don't miss our ship,

  • we'll enjoy this port at the end of the day.

  • While the ship's information desk

  • is designed to sell the cruise line's shore excursions,

  • tourist offices on shore are a service

  • designed to help independent travelers.

  • Okay, I've got maps for each town

  • and a train schedule --

  • there's one leaving in 10 minutes.

  • Trains along the Riviera leave a couple times an hour.

  • And towns here are about 20 minutes apart.

  • Today we'll enjoy a couple hours in Nice,

  • a couple hours in Monte Carlo,

  • and then run out the clock back here in Villefranche.

  • We're starting in Nice while the market's still lively.

  • The well-organized traveler can do a lot

  • during an eight-hour stop.

  • Using a good guidebook and public transportation,

  • exploring the French Riviera is a snap.

  • It's fun and economical to take advantage of public transit

  • in the bigger cities.

  • Nice has a single tramline

  • that glides from the train station

  • right to the old center.

  • This is pure France.

  • As I like to say, Nice is nice,

  • and the market is thriving.

  • Une socca, s'il vous plaît.

  • Here, you can savor the distinct flavor

  • of this southeastern corner of France.

  • -Beautiful. Socca, the local chickpea bread,

  • is delicious hot off the griddle

  • and just right for a bite on the go.

  • -Thank you very much.

  • -Thank you. -Merci bien. Au revoir.

  • Mediterranean towns make their promenades people-friendly

  • and Nice's Promenade des Anglais is a fine example.

  • While I could rent a bike, a lazy stroll

  • and some beach time feels just about right.

  • I'll be on the train to Monaco or Monte Carlo

  • in about an hour,

  • but right now?

  • Ohh, yeah.

  • Back on the train, I'm enjoying my independence,

  • my baguette avec fromage, and amazing Riviera scenery.

  • In half an hour, we'll be in Monaco.

  • It's a tiny country about the size of Manhattan.

  • Monaco is dominated by its harbor,

  • and its harbor is filled with the massive yachts

  • of massively wealthy tycoons.

  • The city is small enough that you can walk

  • to all of its main sights in a couple of hours.

  • I have time for two stops: the famous casino --

  • imagine all the fortunes won and lost here,

  • mostly lost --

  • and the cute little royal palace.

  • We're here just in time for the changing of the guard.

  • [ Band playing ]

  • And a visit to the palace is capped with a commanding view.

  • Riding the train back to our port, Villefranche,

  • it's comforting to see our ship at anchor.

  • The sleepy town of Villefranche feels made for relaxation.

  • The beach is inviting.

  • And the harbor-front is the perfect place

  • to enjoy a final drink on the Riviera.

  • We've got 45 minutes before the last tender back to our ship.

  • There's no way we're going to miss our connection,

  • and that means plenty of time to enjoy a relaxing pastis.

  • We've caught the last tender.

  • Security on board is taken very seriously

  • and it's efficiently organized.

  • Because everyone swipes in and out

  • with their identity cards,

  • at any given moment,

  • the staff knows exactly who's on the ship

  • and who's still on shore.

  • With everyone back on board, it's time to haul anchor

  • and sail away.

  • This is one of the pleasures of cruising.

  • Until you get to the next port,

  • you're free to relax any way you want.

  • You can read a book on deck,

  • head to the spa,

  • exercise,

  • or enjoy one of the numerous bars all over the ship.

  • I'm into the rhythm now.

  • After a full day of sightseeing, I'm ready to relax:

  • stowed my wallet in the room, got comfortable,

  • and I'm looking forward to dinner

  • and an evening at sea.

  • By the way, even with so many people on board,

  • I'm impressed by how it rarely feels crowded.

  • If you want quiet, you can find it.

  • Do you have kids? -Mm-hmm. One son.

  • -One son. How old is he? -34.

  • -See, my son is 30. -30!

  • -Can you believe you've got a 34-year-old son?

  • -No way. [ Laughter ]

  • -If you're in the mood to socialize,

  • you can enjoy an impromptu balcony party

  • with friends you've made on board.

  • And if you want more action, there is always lots going on.

  • [ Lively music plays ]

  • It seems any excuse for a party is good enough.

  • Full moon tonight --

  • yep, it's the full moon party.

  • ♪♪

  • One thing I like about cruising

  • is how easy it is to meet people.

  • ♪♪

  • People who are young at heart.

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • Many major cruise destinations are actually landlocked

  • and far from the sea.

  • For example, Florence.

  • Our ship docks in La Spezia, a couple hours away

  • by bus or train.

  • Like in many cruise ports, we arrive in a gritty world of

  • shipping containers and cranes.

  • And from this springboard, lots of eager travelers

  • are up and out early to catch their tour buses.

  • Like thousands of other travelers,

  • today we're heading into Florence --

  • and most of us have the same great sights in mind:

  • Michelangelo's David and the Uffizi Gallery.

  • Taking the cruise line's tour,

  • I know I'll get a quick blitz of the great sights of Florence.

  • The tour includes transportation,

  • reservations for the big attractions,

  • a professional guide,

  • and the assurance that

  • we'll make it back to the ship on time.

  • Florence is one of those places everybody wants to see,

  • and almost everybody wants to see the same sights.

  • You won't be alone.

  • While those without reservations

  • will waste lots of precious time in lines,

  • with a tour, you'll be more efficient --

  • certain to see the glories of the Florentine Renaissance:

  • Brunelleschi's magnificent dome...

  • Botticelli's Birth of Venus...

  • and Michelangelo's David.

  • ♪♪

  • As we make our way toward Rome,

  • let's consider how to stay within your budget

  • while on the ship.

  • Cruise ships are businesses.

  • They need to make money,

  • and there's not much profit in the base cost of a trip.

  • So they need to make more money from land excursions

  • and from extras you buy while on board --

  • things like gambling, photography,

  • shopping, and alcohol.

  • As smart consumers,

  • it's important to understand the game plan.

  • It's possible, technically, to do the entire cruise

  • with no extra expenses on board,

  • but extras are enticing.

  • They're cleverly sold,

  • and your purchases can really add up.

  • It's a cashless world on the ship.

  • Along with getting you into your stateroom,

  • your handy ID card is how you buy things.

  • Onboard, there's lots of temptations,

  • and purchases feel painless -- like it's almost free...

  • until you check out and get the grand total for your final bill.

  • Our next port serves Rome, another inland city.

  • Like for Florence, the ship docks

  • in an industrial container port.

  • Here, in Civitavecchia,

  • the cruise line provides a shuttle bus

  • to the end of the port

  • from where we sort through our transportation options.

  • In this case, most independent cruisers just hop on the train.

  • Within an hour, we're in Rome.

  • While Rome may be "The Eternal City,"

  • our cruise schedule gives it just a single day.

  • You'll need to be smart and selective.

  • Do it with a thoughtful plan -- with reservations

  • or a guided tour to minimize your time in lines.

  • Rome has two main sightseeing zones.

  • The ancient city includes the awe-inspiring Colosseum,

  • the Forum with the magnificence of the empire apparent

  • even in its ruins,

  • and the glorious Pantheon.

  • Amazingly preserved, this building gives us a sense

  • of the splendor of ancient Rome better than any other.

  • And across the Tiber River stands Vatican City

  • with the towering St. Peter's Basilica,

  • the exhilarating treasures of the Vatican Museum,

  • and Michelangelo's beloved Sistine Chapel.

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • -Welcome to the tour.

  • We're going to head down the main corridor right over here.

  • So, everyone, follow me. -Back on board, we got tickets

  • for a behind-the-scenes tour of our ship.

  • Modern cruise ships are engineering

  • and technical marvels.

  • We start on the bridge, where the captain and his crew

  • enjoy the ultimate vantage point

  • and state-of-the-art navigational tools

  • to be sure we're on track.

  • In the control room, we learn how the ship

  • is like a sophisticated organism --

  • making its own fresh water from the sea,

  • monitoring its vast power,

  • and making sure all systems are go.

  • Passing through the living quarters of the crew,

  • we're reminded that 1,500 hard-working people

  • live in a parallel world

  • under the care-free vacation decks above.

  • -All the fruit that we have here is coming from Italy,

  • from Poland, and from Spain.

  • -The officer in charge of the ship's inventory of food

  • explains how the produce necessary

  • to feed thousands of people is managed.

  • And we finish our tour with a look at the bustling

  • and well-coordinated kitchen, or galley.

  • Our next stop is Naples.

  • I love coming into port.

  • If you're up early, you can enjoy the approach:

  • sunrise over Mount Vesuvius.

  • And here comes one of Europe's most intense

  • yet rewarding cities.

  • Here in Naples, the cruise terminal is right down town.

  • Along with the conventional cruise line tour buses,

  • you'll find budget alternatives for do-it-yourself travelers.

  • In ports like Naples, the scene can feel aggressive.

  • Stepping through the port security gate,

  • you may find yourself in an assertive

  • scrum of cabbies and tour guides eager to take you for a ride.

  • While we could make a deal here on the spot

  • for our sightseeing needs,

  • I've made arrangements in advance.

  • If you're leaving the ship as an independent traveler,

  • remember: cruise ports attract hustlers and con-artists --

  • people looking to over-charge

  • naïve tourists for their services.

  • Look for fixed and regulated prices.

  • Also, be smart about your valuables.

  • I leave my passport on the ship.

  • -Buongiorno! -Buongiorno! I am Rafael...

  • Using my guidebook, I've booked a private tour guide with a car.

  • In moments, we're zipping under Mount Vesuvius

  • and heading for a quick look at Pompeii.

  • While pricey for a solo traveler,

  • we're beating the crowds

  • and I've got the luxury of my own guide

  • here at one of Europe's great ancient sights.

  • It's amazing to think that Pompeii

  • was a thriving Roman city

  • and then, in AD 79, Mount Vesuvius blew its top,

  • and the city was buried in a flood of hot ash and mud.

  • The excavations give us a look at life in ancient Rome

  • like none other.

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • With my driver and guide, I'm nimble and independent.

  • By mid-day, we're back in Naples,

  • free to see things far from the cruise crowds.

  • This old quarry is the Fontanelle Ossuary.

  • It's been filled with human bones for centuries --

  • a sight I bet no one from our ship is visiting today.

  • But it's on my list and perfectly doable.

  • The quarry is filled with bones from emptied church cemeteries.

  • I learned that in the 19th century,

  • Neapolitans would actually adopt a skull,

  • build it a little house,

  • and count on the skull's soul in heaven to advocate

  • for them in times of need.

  • ♪♪

  • I love exploring

  • the characteristic neighborhoods of Naples,

  • and the most crazy and vivid is Sanitá.

  • Just wandering through this district

  • is a cultural carnival.

  • For me, the back streets of Naples

  • offer the gritty reality of urban Italy.

  • Now within easy striking distance of our ship,

  • I say goodbye to our guide and grab a characteristic lunch

  • in the city famous as the birthplace of pizza.

  • The food on the ship is good but generally ignores

  • the cuisine of whatever port we're visiting.

  • So, for lunch,

  • rather than fast food or some forgettable sandwich,

  • choose authentic local food designed to be eaten quickly.

  • And here in Naples, it's got to be pizza.

  • Each country has its quick and easy go-to meal.

  • It's tapas in Spain.

  • My favorite Barcelona tapas bars are Basque style --

  • you just grab what looks good

  • and then count the toothpicks on your plate

  • to figure out how much you owe.

  • In France, I love a good salade niçoise.

  • What better lunch in Nice?

  • In Greece, a souvlaki pita is fast, tasty, and cheap.

  • And in Istanbul, it's fresh fish right off the big, tipsy dingy.

  • [ Conversation in native language ]

  • This is Istanbul fast food.

  • Tonight, as we sail for Malta,

  • the grand foyer is put to good use

  • for the cruise ritual of meeting the ship's officers.

  • -Your captain, from Greece as well,

  • Captain [indistinct], ladies and gentlemen!

  • [ Cheers and applause ]

  • -That's followed by a little bit of floating razzmatazz.

  • -[ Singing indistinctly ]

  • ♪♪

  • -And, as the night wears on, up at the pool is a chance

  • for everyone to literally dance to their own beat --

  • wearing headphones,

  • you can select your favorite style of music

  • at the silent disco.

  • It's a surreal experience made even more so

  • by the graceful mermaid.

  • ♪♪

  • [ Cheers and applause ]

  • ♪♪

  • [ Cheers and applause ]

  • ♪♪

  • The captain advised being up early to enjoy the entry

  • to the Grand Harbor of Malta.

  • Clearly, this port was well-worth

  • some serious fortifications.

  • Our ship just squeezes into the historic harbor,

  • and in moments, we're in the old center of town

  • ready for a busy day of sightseeing.

  • Malta is a tiny independent country

  • set between Sicily and Africa.

  • With a culture enriched by a long parade of civilizations,

  • it's a strategically placed island nation

  • with an extraordinary history.

  • The capital city of Valletta

  • is a stony monument to this hard-fought history.

  • And the dramatic view from the ramparts

  • of the heavily fortified harbor reminds the visitor of Malta's

  • strategic importance through the centuries.

  • Of the many cultures that shaped it,

  • perhaps most obvious is its British heritage.

  • Malta spent 150 years as part of the British Empire.

  • While it gained its independence in 1964,

  • Malta retains its British flavor:

  • English-style pubs and food, statues of queens...

  • and red phone booths.

  • ♪♪

  • If this feels like a fortress city,

  • it's because it was the capital

  • of the Knights of St. John,

  • also known as the Knights of Malta.

  • Malta's stout walls -- many of them incorporated into

  • existing limestone cliffs -- survived a siege in 1565

  • of 40,000 Ottoman sailors.

  • After the Turkish threat passed,

  • the city was ornamented with delightful architecture,

  • including characteristic enclosed balconies,

  • called gallarija.

  • As you stroll, you'll enjoy an inviting

  • and nostalgic patina of age in its facades.

  • A short drive through Malta's dry and timeless landscape

  • takes us to the fisherman's harbor of Marsaxlokk.

  • A favorite with cruise travelers,

  • it's home to a fleet of typical Maltese fishing boats.

  • While Marsaxlokk has a fine main square and church,

  • the action is along the harbor --

  • especially during the Sunday market,

  • when it's all about fish.

  • Tradition says that the shape of the boats

  • goes back eight centuries before Christ

  • to when Malta was a Phoenician colony.

  • These colorful boats pop in the dazzling sunlight,

  • seeming to celebrate yet another distinct heritage

  • of the Mediterranean world.

  • When the distance between ports

  • is longer than an overnight ride,

  • the ship spends an entire day at sea.

  • You know, one of my favorite things

  • about a Mediterranean cruise is the day at sea --

  • sleep in, leisurely brunch, read a book,

  • just hang out by the pool.

  • For activities on board, each evening a printed program

  • with a busy schedule for the next day

  • lands on your bed.

  • Cruise lines work hard to make time on the ship enjoyable.

  • They arrange something for everyone:

  • poolside is ground zero for fun and relaxation outdoors.

  • Every day is filled with ship-sponsored activities --

  • like dance classes.

  • And there are plenty of other ways to enjoy the sunny hours

  • on deck.

  • ♪♪

  • Different cruise lines serve different markets.

  • Smaller ships generally charge more

  • and are able to visit smaller ports.

  • Of the big ship options,

  • you have a range of prices and styles.

  • When shopping for a cruise,

  • there are two major considerations:

  • the itinerary and the character of the cruise line.

  • It's your choice: family-friendly,

  • young and trendy, older and more mature, and so on.

  • It's pretty obvious by the advertising

  • which market's being targeted

  • and the general style of the passengers

  • you'll be sharing your ship with.

  • Your cruise price will also vary

  • according to your choice of cabin class.

  • Like the vast majority of those on this ship,

  • I'm staying in a basic stateroom.

  • On the newer ships, most rooms come with a small balcony.

  • I enjoy the fresh air, the views,

  • and quiet moments on my own deck.

  • If money's no concern,

  • you have some pretty fancy top end options.

  • Rooms cost more or less depending on view, size,

  • location, and package of services.

  • Italy juts 600 miles into the Mediterranean.

  • It divides the sea from a cruise itinerary point of view

  • into western ports and eastern ports.

  • We're sailing east,

  • into the Greece's Aegean Sea for three more stops.

  • Next up: Athens.

  • The port of Athens is Piraeus,

  • another industrial springboard serving a popular destination.

  • While Athens is perfectly tourable

  • for the independent traveler,

  • many opt for the cruise line's excursion.

  • Cruise lines excel in efficiency.

  • Before leaving the ship,

  • tourists meet in the theater,

  • get their tour group number,

  • are escorted to their awaiting bus,

  • and meet the guide.

  • Within minutes, they're on their way

  • as he narrates the ride into town with information

  • about the leading city of ancient Greece --

  • the home of Socrates and Plato.

  • Today, Athens is a sprawling metropolis

  • of four million people.

  • But, in the 19th century, it was just a small town

  • huddled at the base of its once mighty acropolis.

  • That old town is today's touristy shopping quarter,

  • called the Plaka,

  • with its fun eateries, colorful markets,

  • and shops filled with knickknacks.

  • Next to the modern markets

  • you find the ancient market -- the Agora,

  • with one of the best surviving temples

  • from ancient Greece --

  • the Temple of Hephaestus.

  • But everyone's got their sights set on the Acropolis.

  • Our group converges with other groups,

  • and everyone clamors up the famous hill.

  • While cruisers are unavoidably a part of this crush,

  • guides do a good job of managing the cruise ship rush hour

  • each morning.

  • Once on top, tourists marvel at the iconic Parthenon

  • as guides do their best to bring the ruins to life.

  • And from the summit of this historic bluff,

  • all are rewarded with a commanding view

  • of sprawling Athens.

  • After each day of sightseeing,

  • back at the ship, passengers enjoy the ritual welcome.

  • A cool cloth and a refreshing drink,

  • and they're back home in their floating resort.

  • Cruise lines employ a lot of people:

  • a ratio of about one worker for every two passengers.

  • A typical crew comes from dozens of developing world countries.

  • A fun and extra dimension of cruising

  • is getting to interact with people

  • whose cultures you know almost nothing about.

  • [ Cheering ]

  • Crew members work very hard, often seven 12-hour days

  • a week for months at a stretch, far

  • from their homes and families.

  • While they don't make much money

  • from a First World point of view,

  • they make a solid living on their country's scale

  • and are able to help support their families.

  • Their base pay is only a part of their wage

  • and much of their income is based on tips.

  • Tipping on the ship is automatic.

  • Most cruise lines use an "auto tip" system

  • with a healthy gratuity added to your bill

  • that generously covers all your service crew.

  • Of course, you can adjust it if you like

  • and you're welcome to leave a little extra

  • for particular crew members who you especially appreciate.

  • Our last two stops are fabled Greek islands

  • in the Aegean Sea.

  • The Isle of Mykonos

  • comes with a classic white-washed Greek port.

  • While a small island with a small main town,

  • it's a standard stop for the big cruise ships.

  • There's a pier for only one ship,

  • so most ships drop the hook

  • and shuttle their people in by tender.

  • If visiting by cruise ship, it's smart to get an early start.

  • We caught the first tender --

  • beat the crowds and beat the heat.

  • It's easy to enjoy Mykonos Town

  • with no planning, no tour, and no guide.

  • This is a stop which lends itself to unstructured free time

  • just lazing on the beach, wandering,

  • and browsing the shops.

  • It's the epitome of a Greek island town:

  • a busy breakwater, fine little beach, and inviting lanes.

  • While tourism dominates the economy,

  • Mykonos still has a traditional charm

  • thickly layered with white stucco,

  • blue trim, and colorful bougainvillea.

  • Back lanes offer tranquility away from the cruise crowds.

  • As in many Greek island towns,

  • centuries ago the windmills of Mykonos

  • harnessed the steady wind,

  • grinding grain to feed its sailors.

  • Five mills still stand, perfectly positioned

  • to catch the prevailing breeze.

  • A tidy embankment is so pretty they call it "little Venice."

  • Wealthy shipping merchants built this row

  • of fine mansions with brightly painted wooden

  • balconies that seem to rise right out of the sea.

  • Today, these mansions have been refitted as restaurants and bars

  • for tourists enjoying fresh fish and romantic views.

  • Mykonos' status in the last generation

  • was as a fashionable destination for jet-setters,

  • and it retains a certain hip cachet.

  • These days, tacky trinket stalls share the lanes

  • with top-end fashion boutiques.

  • Prices are high, and, in season,

  • the island is crammed full of vacationers.

  • But, even with four ships in the harbor today,

  • there seems to be plenty of room.

  • There's a range of beaches on Mykonos.

  • The most trendy is Paradise,

  • one of the ultimate party beaches in the Aegean.

  • Presided over by hotels that run bars for young beachgoers,

  • the Paradise action is non-stop.

  • While the beach becomes a raging dance floor after dark,

  • the deejay is busy all day as the cruise set joins backpackers

  • from around the world to enjoy the scene.

  • As is standard around here,

  • beaches rent comfortable lounge furniture with umbrellas.

  • Just plop onto whatever appeals.

  • Don't worry, the drinks will come to you.

  • If you prefer a quieter scene,

  • the more remote beaches are a short drive further out.

  • While extremely arid, the stony countryside

  • of Mykonos -- complete with white-washed churches

  • and staggering views -- is a delight for a quick road trip.

  • Agios Sostis, an old hippie beach

  • at the north end of the island,

  • has none of the thumping party energy of Paradise Beach.

  • It offers little beyond lovely sand,

  • turquoise water,

  • and tranquility.

  • And, for many, it's their Greek Isle dream come true.

  • Along with its beaches,

  • Mykonos offers a major historic attraction.

  • It's on an uninhabited neighboring island,

  • a 30-minute shuttle boat ride away.

  • The island of Delos was one of the most important places

  • in the ancient Greek world...

  • ...with temples honoring the birthplace

  • of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis.

  • Centuries before Christ,

  • Delos attracted pilgrims from across the Western world.

  • Delos was important in three different ancient eras --

  • first as a religious site,

  • then as the treasury of the Athenian League --

  • that was sort of the "Fort Knox" of the ancient world --

  • and later, during Roman times,

  • this was one of the busiest commercial ports

  • in the entire Mediterranean.

  • Delos ranked right up there with Olympia, Athens, and Delphi.

  • Survey the remains of the ancient harbor...

  • foundations of shops and homes...

  • and hillsides littered with temple remains.

  • The iconic row of sphinx-like lions

  • still heralds the importance of the place.

  • This was one of the Aegean world's finest cities.

  • Imagine Delos in its heyday --

  • a booming center of trade: streets lined

  • with 3,000 shops where you could buy just about anything,

  • dazzling mansions of wealthy merchants

  • with colonnaded inner courtyards.

  • There were fine mosaics --

  • like this one of the god Dionysus riding a panther.

  • Culture thrived here,

  • enough to keep this theater -- which could seat 6,000 -- busy.

  • I cap my visit by climbing to the summit of the island.

  • My reward: one of the Mediterranean's

  • great king-of-the-mountain thrills.

  • As you observe the chain of islands

  • dramatically swirling in 360 degrees,

  • you can understand why historians believe

  • that these Cycladic Islands

  • got their name from the way they make a circle, or cycle,

  • around this oh-so-important little island of Delos.

  • Back on the ship, we set sail for our last Greek island.

  • By the nature of a cruise schedule, dinners are at sea.

  • Food is unlimited and generally included.

  • There's a constant risk of overeating,

  • and for some cruisers, there's a temptation

  • to see if you can eat five meals a day and still snorkel

  • when you get to the port.

  • Traditionally, there's one big dining room

  • where cruisers have a set table and dining time,

  • with the same table mates,

  • and a chance to get to know their server.

  • But that's changing as people want less formality

  • and more flexibility.

  • Now there are more options:

  • cafes, snack bars,

  • and a burger grill poolside.

  • The standby is a sprawling cafeteria

  • with a huge and efficient selection of food

  • available at almost any hour.

  • There's a vast selection of meats,

  • hot foods,

  • salads,

  • fruit...

  • and desserts.

  • And ships also offer a variety of higher quality

  • specialty restaurants.

  • These are more formal, often require reservations,

  • and come with a surcharge.

  • If you don't mind the extra fee,

  • they can be a romantic and tasty option.

  • Many cruise lines still have formal night about once a week,

  • usually on the day at sea.

  • While this is becoming more optional,

  • the personality of the ship still changes on these evenings.

  • On our ship, the dress code was called "casual chic"

  • rather than "formal."

  • If you don't want to dress up, no problem --

  • just steer clear of the formal areas.

  • But for many people, this is the time

  • to put on a suit and tie or a glamorous gown.

  • When you do that, a romantic moment at sea by moonlight

  • is particularly memorable.

  • ♪♪

  • I enjoy the scenic arrivals and departures by cruise ship.

  • Being on the top deck as you approach the day's destination

  • gives you a quiet, bird's-eye view.

  • Approaching an exotic and fabled island

  • like Santorini -- as the moon sets and the sun rises,

  • just kissing the lip of the breath-taking cliffs --

  • is worth getting up for.

  • Santorini is a dramatic island --

  • the rim of a volcanic crater with spectacular vistas.

  • Once a complete island like its neighbors,

  • it was a volcano that -- about 3,500 years ago --

  • blew its top, creating a caldera -- this flooded crater.

  • Today, inviting white-washed villages

  • seem to crowd its dramatic ridges

  • as if jostling to enjoy the views.

  • Because Santorini's pier is small,

  • giant cruise ships drop anchor and tender their passengers

  • in on small shuttle boats.

  • Individuals go to the tiny "old harbor"

  • where they can ride a donkey up the zig-zag trail

  • or hop a cable car to the scenic lip of the island crater.

  • Those paying for the cruise line's excursion

  • get off the ship first, and head for an alternative port,

  • where buses and guides await.

  • Considering the crush of the crowds, the limited time,

  • and the scattered array of interesting sights,

  • investing in a bus tour like this to see Santorini

  • can be a good value.

  • Within minutes, you'll be powering up the switch-backs

  • into the island as your guide narrates the drive.

  • Santorini is arid, with no lakes or rivers.

  • We're here in early September,

  • and they haven't had rain since May.

  • But grapes on Santorini soak up the sun

  • and make the island's distinctive wine.

  • As they have since ancient times,

  • vintners shape the vines into protective baskets

  • in hopes that they'll collect the dew and survive the wind.

  • The Santorini fruit of the vine is both hearty and sweet.

  • Many excursions include a winery tour with a chance

  • to taste the local wine.

  • Sure, this stop is designed to accommodate the masses

  • and might not be as charming as you hoped.

  • Still, the wine's good and the group's having lots of fun.

  • Cruise line excursions come with a steady commentary...

  • -Those two are the Kameni Islands.

  • The Kameni Islands are actually made of lava rock.

  • -...scenic views from the bus, and the stress-free efficiency

  • of getting smoothly from point to point.

  • And tour groups are sure to have free time at the best photo ops.

  • Oia is the postcard image of the Greek Isles.

  • This idyllic ensemble of white-washed houses

  • and characteristic domes is delicately draped

  • over a steep slope at the top of a cliff.

  • Viewpoints here are some of the most striking

  • in the Greek Seas as tourists clamor for just the right angle.

  • Artists fall in love with Oia and move in.

  • Honeymooners find the B&B of their dreams

  • and savor breakfast in unforgettable settings.

  • And at the quiet end of town,

  • the old windmill reminds all of a more rustic age gone by.

  • ♪♪

  • To get the absolute most out of our Santorini day,

  • I've booked half a day with Dimitris.

  • Of Santorini's many beaches, Kamari is one of the best.

  • The black sand is a reminder of the island's volcanic origin.

  • Typical of Greek island resort beaches,

  • it's lined with rentable lounge chairs

  • and a strip of seafood restaurants.

  • And with Dimitris, I know exactly what I'm eating.

  • These salads look delicious. Can you tell me about them?

  • -Well, we have here a Greek salad and a Santorini salad.

  • The difference with the local salad is

  • that we use the local tomatoes, the cherry tomatoes,

  • the local cucumbers, and instead of the feta cheese,

  • we use the goat cheese,

  • and we add the capers and the caper leaves.

  • See, you can eat them. They taste good.

  • We got some sardines here, grilled.

  • And on the other side, we've got a very nice grilled calamari,

  • also served with salad, the lemon, and the olive oil.

  • -This is a healthy diet. -This is the Mediterranean diet.

  • -We bid our guide goodbye

  • to enjoy our last couple of hours in Fira,

  • Santorini's main town.

  • Fira is the island's commercial and transportation hub.

  • Its main street -- thronged with tourists

  • whenever there's a cruise ship in the bay --

  • seems like little more than a long line of shops, cafes,

  • and restaurants -- all with staggering views.

  • Enjoying the island with a local guide

  • and then taking a short break to enjoy a cliff-side bar

  • filled with happy travelers from around the world

  • is a reminder that, even if on a cruise,

  • you can exercise your independence and spark

  • some great travel moments.

  • Keeping my eye on the clock,

  • I hop the cable car back down to the old port,

  • where our ship's shuttle, or tender, awaits.

  • Most cruisers get nervous about missing the ship

  • and head back earlier than necessary.

  • I find the ports are least crowded and most relaxed

  • and enjoyable during that last hour.

  • The last tender isn't leaving for 15 minutes.

  • That's plenty of time for one last ouzo.

  • A cruise can be what you make of it:

  • a pre-packaged travel cliché,

  • or a springboard for the independent spirit.

  • Whether you took the cruise excursion,

  • or hopped a donkey, or just had lunch in port,

  • you'll take home unforgettable memories.

  • A cruise allows you to explore this unique and historic region

  • in a way that suits you best.

  • Whether that's touring ancient sites in Greece,

  • crossing off some of those

  • "must see" highlights in Italy or France,

  • or just relaxing on the beach of your dreams.

  • As with travel in general, for cruisers, life-long memories

  • such as these can be yours when you know your options

  • and then match them with your personal style of travel.

  • Our cruise is nearing its end,

  • and I'm savoring our last evening at sea.

  • While we've enjoyed a quick look

  • at a selection of Mediterranean ports,

  • there are plenty more.

  • We'll be back in the real world in the morning.

  • ♪♪

  • There are many ways to explore Europe.

  • For a lot of people, taking a cruise --

  • especially if you know how to do it smartly --

  • can be a practical mix of efficiency, economy, and fun.

  • I hope you've enjoyed our Mediterranean cruise.

  • I'm Rick Steves.

  • Until next time, keep on travelin'.

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

-Hi, I'm Rick Steves.

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瑞克-史蒂夫巡航地中海 (Rick Steves Cruising the Mediterranean)

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    Amy.Lin 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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