The original Noma opened in Copenhagen 15 years ago, surprising guests with its inventive offerings like dishes disguised as herb pots,

最初的 Noma 15 年前在哥本哈根開張，以創新的料理來驚豔來賓，像是偽裝成植栽的菜餚。

and careful displays of roasted bone marrow with edible flowers.

還有精心擺盤的骨髓料理佐以食用花。

Chef Rene Redzepi built meals from nature using seasonal ingredients found in the Nordic region.

主廚 Rene Redzepi 的菜單深受大自然啟發，運用北歐地區的季節性食材。

The style is now called New Nordic cuisine.

現在這種風格被稱為新北歐料理。

It has granted Noma two Michelin stars and has put Copenhagen's food scene on the map.

這讓 Noma 獲得兩顆米其林星等，也使得哥本哈根的美食更加聞名於世。

In 2010, Noma was voted number one restaurant in the world by Restaurant Magazine.

2010 年，Noma 被《餐廳》雜誌評為 Noma 為全球最佳餐廳。

And then again in 2011... and 2012... and 2014.

2011、2012、2014 年也是。

Two other restaurants have taken the title in 2015 and 2016.

另外兩間餐廳在 2015 和 2016 年獲得這個頭銜。

All the while, though, Noma has hovered near the top.

雖然每一次 Noma 都名列前茅。

But not too long ago, Chef Rene Redzepi shut everything down.

然而不久前主廚 Rene Redzepi 終止了所有的營運。

And this latest move could give them back the title.

而最新的計畫可能使 Noma 重回冠軍寶座。

Noma closed at the end of 2016 before opening its new space in February 2018, roughly a mile from the original location.

Noma 2016 年底關閉；2018 年二月才在新地點重新開幕，距離原地點約一英里遠。

It's received visits from foodies around the world and A-list celebrities like Justin Timberlake.

全球各地的美食家都來朝聖，包括第一線明星，像是 Justin Timberlake。

It's different 15 years in.

15 年來事情改變了。

People expect more.

人們期望得更多。

I mean, they expect to have maybe the meal of a lifetime and an experience as well, on top of that.

我的意思是，他們或許想吃到永生難忘的佳餚，同時享受難忘的體驗。

But why would a chef risk his profitable business to start all over?

但為什麼主廚甘願拿營利的事業冒險，重新開始？

I was getting a bit annoyed with how we were working.

當時我對我們的工作模式感到有點厭煩。

I felt the routine has... was sort of stifling us, and we should probably be looking for a new place to see if that could give us something.

我覺得例行性的工作令我們窒息，或許應該尋找一個新地點，看看是否能激發新的靈感。

The new location seats 42 people, each seat costing 2,250 Kroner or about $340 U.S. dollars.

新餐廳可容納 42 人，一位要價 2250 丹麥克朗，換算成美金約為 340 塊。

But the biggest change is in what everyone comes to taste, the restaurant's three seasonal menus.

但最大的改變在於大家來這間餐廳所要品嚐的三種季節性菜單。

Vegetable-based in the summer, seafood-based in the winter, and meat-based in the fall.

夏天是以蔬菜為主，冬天是海鮮，秋天是肉類。

Each dish is thought out carefully and focused on local ingredients found in the Nordic region.

每一道菜都經過精心設計，並且以北歐地區的在地食材為主角。

In the very beginning, we just sort of have a brainstorm:

最初我們進行了腦力激盪：

"Okay, what could be fun to have on this menu?"

「好，有什麼好玩的食材可以放入菜單？」

And then we just started tagging it.

接著我們就開始標記分類。

So we always have at least a couple of weeks where we're not actually putting things on a plate and trying to make dishes but where we just sort of investigate all these creative ideas that we have.

所以至少有幾周的時間我們會先不接待客人或做料理，而只是檢視我們所有的創意。

Some of those ideas include the celeriac and truffle shawarma and rose-scented cake resembling a small herb pot.

像是根芹菜松露沙威瑪，還有形似小型植栽的玫瑰香氣蛋糕。

The team hopes the seasonal menus will encourage guests to visit Noma more often.

我們的團隊希望季節性菜單會吸引客人更常造訪 Noma。

But they'll have to wait another year to see if they will make the best restaurant list again.

但他們還得等一年才會知道是否又被票選為最棒的餐廳。

In a restaurant like this, it's about the everyday.

對這種餐廳來說，每一天都很重要。

It's about finding the balance between creativity and production and your team and hard work, low pay, family, ingredients, suppliers.

創意與製作、你的團隊、努力工作和低薪、家庭、食材、供應商，重點是要找到他們之間的平衡。

It's a network of a lot of things happening, and sometimes people recognize it in an extraordinary way.

這個領域包含許多要素，而有時人們會以不尋常的方式體認這點。

And you get to be changed forever, like our restaurant did when we first became number one.

你從此變得不一樣，如同當初我們的餐廳第一次奪冠。

But I still truly, wholeheartedly believe if you go to work with only that thing in mind, you won't last long in this trade.

但我仍舊打從心底認為，如果你經營餐廳只想著冠軍頭銜，你就無法走得很遠。

As for whether starting over was worth it despite taking some pretty big risks along the way?

至於儘管一路上冒了相當大的風險，重新開始是否值得？

Of the 15 years we've been open, this is the moment where we have the most requests.

我們經營的 15 年來，現在接到的訂位最多。

I stopped counting actually but probably in the thousands every day of people waiting for a table.

我其實已經沒在計算了，但大概每天有幾千人等著預約。

So it's been good for business, but it's done even more to motivate Rene and his team.

所以這對生意來說是件好事，不過對 Rene 和他的工作團隊來說激勵作用更大。

I don't know how I can explain except that it's like a hunger.

我不知道要怎麼解釋，只能說那像是一股飢渴的慾望。

I feel like I just can't stand still, you know that when you...

我覺得自己無法停留在原地，你知道就像......

Sometimes you see, or you hear a song, or you see a movie, or you...something that makes you wanna do something and change your life or do something.

有時你看到、聽到一首歌，或者看到一部電影之類的，促使你想去做些什麼、改變生活，想有所行動。

I feel like that. Almost all the time.

我幾乎每分每秒都有這種感受。