Respect the hackle.

請向它致敬

This is Merria.

這是 Merria

She's a master wig maker, whose skill and expertise has made her a celebrity favorite.

她是假髮製造界的大師級人物，她的專業技術深受名人喜愛

This is what they do after they cut it off the ponytail to get that shorter hair out.

在剪下馬尾以後，必須這麼做，以篩選出較短的頭髮

She painstakingly sews each wig by hand in a process that can take months to complete

她費心的將一根根的假髮手縫上去，這個過程可以長達數月

and cost as much as fifteen thousand dollars.

且花費可高達 1 萬 5 千元美金

Close it off, and then there you go.

打結，就這樣

And how you tie it determines the way the hair flows and falls and parts.

你打結的方式決定頭髮如何飄動、落下及分邊

She knows everything there is to know about hair,

她知道有關於頭髮的一切

except for one thing.

除了一件事

Where does most of the hair being sold in the industry come from?

這些被銷售到假髮產業的頭髮是從哪兒來的呢？

I try to source from people who I know where it's coming from, but I don't know.

我試著和認識的人探聽消息，不過我還是不知道

As Refinery29's senior beauty editor, I've been on set for dozens of shoots and interviewed

身為 Refinery29 的資深美容編輯，我曾經參與數十次現場拍攝以及訪問過

hundreds of hair stylists.

上百位美髮造型師

Nearly everyone of their kits holds the same things: flat irons, curling irons, brushes,

幾乎每一位的工具箱裡都有一樣的東西：直髮夾、捲髮器、梳子

product and hair.

美髮產品和假髮

But Hollywood's best kept secret is far from new.

不過，在好萊塢這個不能說的秘密卻不是什麼新鮮事

Both Black and Orthodox Jewish communities have openly worn hair for generations.

黑人和傳統猶太人這兩個族群世代以來都配戴假髮

But it's just now that the popularity has exploded into the mainstream.

只不過假髮到現在才成為人氣主流

Celebrities have opened up on social media about wearing human hair, revealing just how

影視名人在社交媒體上公開配戴真人假髮，揭露

common wigs and extensions are on the red carpet, and in everyday life.

在紅毯上配戴假髮是很常見的，在日常生活中亦然

Extensions have really pushed the hair trade up.

接髮拓展了美髮業的業績

People want things that are disposable.

人們追求一次性的事物

They just want long hair today and that's that.

她們今天想要的是長髮，就一定要得到

There's something intimate and uncanny about wearing the hair of another person.

配戴另外一個人的頭髮有種親密又神秘的感覺

It can transform the way you look, but at what cost?

它能夠改變你的外觀，但代價是多少呢？

Close your eyes.

把眼睛閉上

I couldn't help but wonder who this hair once belonged to.

我不禁幻想著這頭髮曾經屬於誰

It's difficult to trace the origin of much of the hair on the market.

要追蹤市場上頭髮的來源是相當不容易的

It's no surprise because the hair trade has always been shady.

這並不讓人訝異，畢竟頭髮交易一直以來都很神秘

For centuries, hair brokers have used any

數百年來，頭髮掮客用盡一切

means necessary to get their hands on hair.

手段要得到頭髮

In the 1800's, peasant women in France were lured into being shorn like sheep.

西元 1800 年，法國的農婦被誘惑像剪羊毛一樣的剪下頭髮

In the early 1900's, it was reported that hair sold in the states was coming from sewers

在西元1900 年早期，根據報導指出，賣到美國的頭髮來自於中國

and corpses in China.

的下水道和屍體身上

Hair dealers were thought to be so shady, they were banned from Ellis Island.

頭髮商被認定是不老實的，在 Ellis 島上受到取締

Controversy continued into the 21st century, as reported by CNN.

根據 CNN 的報導，這個爭議延續到 21 世紀的今天

She lost eight inches of hair.

她失去了 8 英寸的頭髮

From the robbers perspective, it's quick and relatively easy money.

從強盜的角度看來，這錢來的既快又容易

One constant in all of this is that the hair trade sets up shop wherever women are the

一個不變的常理是在女性權利被剝奪最多的地方，通常也就是

most disenfranchised.

頭髮商林立的地方

And the people who end up wearing the hair are often unaware of the journey it took to

而配戴假髮的人通常對於頭髮是如何一路飄洋過海

get to them.

來的卻是一無所知

Most people do not know where their hair comes from.

大部分的人並不知道她們的頭髮從何而來

And I don't think they care.

我也不認為她們在乎這件事

Riqua Hailes, the founder of a hair extension salon in Los Angeles,

Riqua Hailes 是一家位於洛杉磯接髮沙龍的創辦人

didn't particularly care either.

她似乎也不特別在乎

Until, she got scammed.

直到她受騙

I had already lost ten thousand dollars, I couldn't afford to lose any more.

我已經賠了 1 萬元美金，我經不起更多的損失

They had these great pictures that tell you how it was going to perform, they sell you on a dream.

他們給你看一些很棒的照片，告訴你頭髮會以什麼樣的方式呈現，他們賣得是一個夢

That's the issue with it.

這就是問題所在

Riqua went on a hair buying trip to try and get some answers.

Riqua 展開一趟購買頭髮的旅行並試著尋找答案

We want to know if all the hair in Malaysia is really coming from Malaysia.

我們想知道在馬拉西亞的頭髮是否真的是來自於馬拉西亞本地

She travelled across six countries and found the lack of regulation in America and around

她走遍六個國家，發現在美國和世界其他的國家對於頭髮販賣缺乏監管

the world, makes it hard to guarantee what you're getting.

這讓你買到的假髮品質更難以獲得保證

Push it, push it, push it.

壓緊，壓緊，壓緊點

There you go.

就是這樣

Oh it fried the hair.

哦頭髮燒焦了

It fried the hair.

它讓頭髮燒焦了

I can smell it.

我可以聞得出來

It smells like...what is that, is that burnt hair?

它聞起來像...像是，是頭髮燒焦的味道嗎？

Or is that plastic?

還是塑膠？

That's plastic.

那是塑膠

Plastic.

塑膠

Mixed with what's known as fallen hair.

混合著所謂的落髮

It's the cheapest tier of human hair, collected from salon floors, hairbrushes and drains.

這是人髮裡最低等級的，在美髮沙龍、梳子和排水溝裡搜集取得

The hair is detangled, processed with chemicals, coated with silicon and sometimes mixed with

頭髮經由梳理、化學藥劑處理、塗上矽，有時混合著

synthetic and animal hair.

人造髮和動物毛

While okay for some uses, it's a less expensive version of a higher quality, more elusive hair:

雖然可以用在某些用途上，比起質量高檔、難以獲得的辮髮

virgin remy.

這只是便宜的版本

So everybody is secretive about where their hair actually comes from.

每個人對於在哪裡買到他們的頭髮都十分保密

That's where the hair broker makes his money.

這就是頭髮商能夠賺錢的原因

Remy.

順髮

Remy.

順髮

Remy.

順髮

Passing off non-remy hair as a remy, is just one of the many tactics of hair dealers.

將非順髮假冒為順髮就是頭髮商眾多的販賣策略之一

Where do you get your hair from now?

妳現在從哪裡買頭髮？

I get my hair from India.

我從印度買頭髮

Widely considered to be one of the most ethical places to source hair,

被廣泛認定是最有道德的頭髮來源處之一

Hindu temples are a crucial part of the industry.

印度廟宇在這個產業中扮演著極為重要的角色

Every year millions of devout followers travel to temples like this one.

每年有數百萬虔誠的信徒前往到像這樣的廟宇

The Shri Venkateswara Temple in the southern state of Andhra Pradesh.

Shri Venkateswara 寺廟位於安得拉邦的南部

It's the most visited Hindu temple in the world and perhaps the most lucrative.

這是全世界最多人參拜的一座印度教寺廟，也可能是獲利最高的

Here devotees shave their hair as an offering to the Gods,

在這裡皈依者將他們的頭髮獻給神明

which becomes an easy revenue source for the temple,

這成為寺廟一個簡單的收入來源

bringing in more than seven million dollars per year.

每年獲利超過 7 百萬美金

It's a practice that provides a constant supply of cheap, high quality hair.

這個習俗提供一個持續供應廉價、高品質頭髮的來源

But it's not for everyone.

不過這並不適合所有的人

For some, matching specific textures and colors is worth paying top dollar for.

對於某些人來說，搭配特定的髮質和顏色值得支付更高的價格

Blond, red, wavy, coyly.

金髮、紅髮、捲髮、嬌媚的

The more niche the hair is the more expensive and harder it is to source,

越是好看的頭髮價格越高也越難取得

making this type of hair prime for exploitation.

使得這種類型的頭髮成為主要的剝削來源

After months of back and forth,

經過數月的來回

only one of them agreed to show us their operation.

其中只有一個人同意向我們展現他們的運作方式

We set out to Vietnam to meet him.

我們出發到越南和他見面

Vietnam is in a moment of major transition.

越南正處於重大的轉型期

With one of the fastest growing economies in Asia,

是亞洲發展最快速的經濟體之一

it's growth is a mix of opportunity and exploitation.

它的發展是機會與剝削的結合

Hair sellers here have been known to offer women next to nothing for their hair,

眾所皆知，這裡的頭髮商以極低的價格購買女性的頭髮

or offer them what sounds like a good rate, only to disappear before payment.

或是提供一個聽來非常合理的價格，卻在付款之前消失無蹤

Even though Dan agreed to meet us, I still had no idea what to expect,

儘管 Dan 同意與我們見面，我仍然不知道會發生什麼事

or how legitimate his operation would be.

也不清楚究竟他的運作是否合法

Hi!

嗨！

Hi.

嗨

The way other companies operate, everything is gonna be under the radar.

其他公司的運作方式是所有事情保持低調神秘

Some of the women that we've bought hair from, they have been scammed before.

一些將頭髮賣給我們的女性都曾經遭受到欺騙

We're trying to be different than everybody else.

我們試圖與其他人做區別

Dan's mission is to make his company, Remy New York, one of the first ethical and totally

Dan 的使命是將他的公司，Remy New York，變成最合乎道德並且完全

transparent companies on the market.

透明化的公司之一

These are gonna to be our dyed hairs.

這些將是我們的染色頭髮

So we do have different varieties.

我們有很多不同的種類

This is so exciting.

這真令人興奮

Different colors.

不同的顏色

Yeah.

是的

Really cool.

非常酷

And you have short ones, too.

而且你也有短髮的

Sure.

沒錯

So if a girl were to come to you, and want to cut her hair, but she had short hair you would still buy it.

所以如果有一個女孩找上你，希望剪去她的頭髮，不過她是短髮而你仍然會買？

Of course.

當然會

Okay.

了解

Yeah, we try not to turn away anybody.

沒錯，我們試著不拒絕任何人

Just because everybody needs help.

因為每個人都需要幫助

So this one is gonna be one of our long ones.

所以這個將會是我們長髮系列之一

This one is pure virgin remy.

這是一個完美的辮髮

You can feel the softness of it.

你可以感受到它的柔軟

In my six years in the beauty industry, I had never seen hair like this.

我在美容產業的六年當中，從來沒有見過這樣的頭髮

Oh my gosh, this is so long.

哦我的天啊，它好長

This level of high quality hair isn't something you can fake.

這種高質量的頭髮是仿冒不來的

And as soon as I saw Dan's hair, I knew he was doing something right.

當我見到 Dan 的頭髮時，我確信他做的事情一定是正確的

But he invited us out to see for ourselves.

不過他讓我們眼見為憑

Dan travels across the region to buy hair in person, and at a fair rate.

Dan 親自穿梭在各個地區買頭髮，提供一個合理的價格

Here in the countryside having long hair is still an important sign of femininity.

在鄉下地區，蓄長髮仍是具有女人味的重要象徵

Hi.

嗨

How are you?

妳好嗎？

For Nguyen Thi Thuy, it's a promise of a better future.

對於 Nguyen Thi Thuy 而言，這承諾的是一個更好的未來

Will you miss your long hair?

妳會想念妳的長髮嗎？

That's like actually criminal.

那簡直就是犯罪啊

It hits home that the hair trade starts with women like Thuy.

頭髮買賣起始於像 Thuy 這樣的女人的弱點

Behind many of these wigs and extensions, is a woman making the tough choice to sell

在許許多多的假髮和接髮背後的故事是一個女人為了改善生活

her hair to better her life.

而做出艱難的決定，賣掉她的頭髮

Dan zip ties Thuy's hair to avoid tangling and to keep it all in the same direction after it's been cut.

Dan 束起 Thuy 的頭髮以避免打結並在剪下之後保持同一個方向

It looks beautiful.

妳看起來很漂亮

I think it looks beautiful.

我覺得妳看起來很漂亮

You look young and fresh and really pretty.

你看起來年輕有朝氣而且真的很美

Will you tell her that?

你可以告訴她嗎？

You do.

真的

Yeah.

是真的

How are you feeling?

妳感覺如何？

Dan paid Thuy a little over a hundred dollars.

Dan 支付 Thuy 一百多元美金

The money is more than a month's worth of living expenses for her entire family.

這筆錢是她全家一個多月的生活開銷

Enough to buy livestock that will bring in new income stream for years to come.

足夠購買家禽在未來幾年帶來新的收入來源

Dan's rates are not only unheard of,

Dan 的價格不僅聞所未聞

they have the potential to change lives.

更能夠改變人生

It's a mission Dan's taking across the country.

這是 Dan 在全國各地所承擔的使命

From a woman who wants to use the money to put her son through swim lessons for the first time,

從一個女人想要用錢讓兒子參加第一次的游泳課程

to another who needs to pay for books and tuition at school next semester.

到另一個女人需要付下學期的書本費和學費

And even a woman who wants to advance herself through the trade.

甚至有一個女人希望透過這個交易提升自己

You know there's no shortage of hair companies in the world.

妳知道這個世界不缺乏頭髮公司

But there's no companies that want to make a difference, that want to change lives.

但是卻沒有一家公司願意做出改變，想要改變人生

The reason why I'm doing this is because I know that nobody else will, and nobody else has.

我會這麼做是因為我知道沒有其他的人願意，也從沒有人做過

While it's still the early days for Dan's company, a lot of eyes are on him to see if

儘管 Dan 的公司成立不久，很多眼睛正盯著他看

Remy New York can be a new standard within the industry.

Remy New York 是否能夠成為產業裡的新標準

What does an ethical supply chain for hair look like?

頭髮產業鏈裡的道德標準是什麼？

It's sort of looks like fair trade.

它就好像公平交易

This guy in Vietnam he's transparent, and the girls are getting something in return

這個在越南的人行事透明化，那些女孩們也都得到報酬

that's extremely valuable.

那是十分難得的

You have to make an effort to understand where the hair coming from.

你必須費心了解頭髮的來源

Do your research.

做好功課

Make sure that the women it's coming from are getting a wage.

確保那些販賣頭髮的女性有得到工資

I think that's how change happens.

我認為那就是改變的方式

Hair can be more empowering than we ever thought possible.

頭髮賦予人的自主性遠比我們想像得更多

For the women who wear it, and those who use it to create businesses that enrich their communities.

不僅對於戴假髮的女人，還有那些利用假髮創造商機去豐富社區的女性

But also for the women who sell it to better their lives, and the lives of their families.

還有那些販賣頭髮來改善自己和家人生活的女人們

A fair trade, transparent supply chain can leave everyone better off.

一個公平、透明的供應鏈能夠讓每個人都更好

That is, if the industry allows it and the customers demand it.

也就是，如果產業同意給予，顧客有所需求

Thanks for watching Refinery29.

感謝收看 Refinery29

For more videos like this click here and to subscribe click here.

想要看更多相關的視頻點擊此處，要訂閱本頻道請點擊這裡