字幕列表 影片播放 列印英文字幕 If you want to know how to pick the best ice climbing axe? Then keep watching! But before I answer that question if you are new to alpine climbing or ice climbing, or maybe you have been climbing for a few years remember to subscribe to our channel to recieve more videos about gear advice and alpine and ice climbing around Europe. So, a frew weeks ago I did a comparison between the mountaineering axe and the technical ice climbing axe but this time I will try to look at what are the actual details around the technical ice climbing axe and how do you select and pick out the best one for you. So, the four different different ice climbing axes we are going to look at that is the Grivel Tech Machine The Petzl Nomic The Black Diamond Fuel and the Petzl Quark (2018). But let's take a look at the different features that we will be looking at. (Curvature, handle, modularity, spike and pick) (Strength) First of all, ice climbing axes are rated according to their strength. They can either be B-rated or T-rated based on tests on their shaft and their pick. A B-rated (Basic) axe would be tested against 280 kg of force while a T-rated (Technical) would be tested against 400 kg. So, why does this even matter? Well, it matters because when you are doing hard Ice and you repeatedly bang you ice axe against the ice this could eventually break it, if it is not strong enough. And actually if you are doing mixed climbing as well where you have to use rock and you have to torque the ice climbing axe or you have to to pull on rock with the axe it could eventually break as well. (Curvature) So, the second thing you have to notice about ice climbing axes is the curvature of the shaft. This is also what you should refer to as the "Aggressiveness". The right amount of aggressiveness helps on getting bite into the ice and that's why it is really important that you get the right curvature of the shaft. To less curvature means that the ice axe potentially could pop out of the ice and you would take a fall. And too much would actually mean that you can't get the right angle for penetrating the ice. So, what you obviously want is the right amount of curvature. So, I've brought four different technical ice climbing axes to show. And they all have the right amount of curvature. So, the third thing you need to look for that is the teeth and the blade itself. So, the technical ice climbing axe has a very different blade than the traditional mountaineering axe. As you can see the blade is much sharper and the teeth are much more aggressive and sharp as well. And this is for penetrating the ice more easily. However, some of the technical ice climbing axes actually have a bit of a different design than others. So the Black Diamond Fuel has a more sharper and narrow pick than the others which is insanely awesome for penetrating ice. Where as you can see on the Grivel Tech Machine and the Petzl Nomic that the design is a bit different. This is good for mixed ground, where you have to climb on rock as well but still penetrate ice quite easily. And speaking of blades, you need to keep them sharp. With a blunt blade you won't be able to penetrate the ice efficiently and that will just make a very poor ice climbing experience So, there a bit of maintenance when handling ice axes. I will be doing a vlog on a later time regarding how you actually maintain your ice axes and how you keep the pick sharp. But if you have some tips of your own leave a comment below. So, one feature that is often overlooked that's the eye at the top of the shaft. This is for placing carabiners, so you can use the axe as a deadman anchor buy burying it in the snow. But one thing I also use the eye for that is to stash my ice axe on an ice clipper on my climbing harness when I need both hands. So, having a big eye like the Grivel Tech Machine is definitely something that would help. And as you can see on the Petzl Nomic and the Petzl Quark (2018) the eye is much smaller making it a bit harder to clip it on your climbing harness or getting a carabiner through. Most ice axes are modular built meaning that you can actually switch different parts if you want to. Like the Grivel Tech Machine, where you can get different blades for mixed climbing or dedicated ice climbing. or you can add a hammer or and adze. Or, with the Petzl Nomic, where you can actually add some weights to get some more swing. On mixed terrain, where you need to place a 'Bulldog' in an icy crack or in frozen turf. And then a hammer would be really efficient. Or, if you have to dig out some space to pitch a tent then the adze help you doing that. But if you are looking for dedicated ice climbing axes a hammer and an adze are less important. So, another thing when choosing the best ice climbing axe that is to look at the handle itself. You need to consider that you are climbing in thick gloves and you need a handle that can suit that. On some of the ice climbing axes like the Black Diamond Fuel you can actually adjust the handle by setting in some small rings. Something that I really, really like about that design. As oppose to the Grivel Tech Machine that you can't adjust at all. Something that is pretty important for alpine climbing that is the spike at the bottom Some ice climbing axes have these. Others don't. But what you use this feature for is when you are hiking in or you are crossing a glacier you can use the ice climbing axe as a kind of a trekking pole. to help you keep your balance. So, I guess whether you want to prioritize this is something that relies on whether you are doing dedicated ice climbing or you might see yourself doing some alpine climbing too. If you are new to ice climbing I would definitely recommend that you climb with leashes. A leash is an elastric string that attaches the ice climbing axe to your climbing harness meaning that should you take a fall or you drop you ice axe it is not lost. And even though I become more experienced, I must admit that I still use leashes at some points of times. Especially on multi-pitch ice climbing, where I don't want to loose my ice axes. You attach the leashes to the ice climbing axe on the spike at the bottom, where there usually is an eye for that. But as you can see on the Petzl Nomic this kinda lacks there is a hole in the handle itself which I really don't understand why they put there because it will just be in the way for your hand. But as you can see on, both for the Petzl Quark (2018), the Grivel Tech Machine and the Black Diamond Fuel there is plenty of room for that. So I really hope that these tips have helped you out on deciding which is the best ice climbing axe for you. And if not... Leave a comment below with your questions and let's answer them together.
B1 中級 美國腔 如何選擇正確和最好的冰斧或冰工具(2019)|攀巖Vlog.Ep.14。 (How to choose the RIGHT and best ice axe or ice tool (2019) | Climbing Vlog Ep. 14) 36 0 Jane Chang 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日 更多分享 分享 收藏 回報 影片單字