You're overtaking on a blind bend!

你轉彎超車啊！

Hi, I'm Tom.

嗨，我是湯姆

I'm traveling through one of the most colorful and vibrant countries in the world

我正在世界上其中一個最多彩多姿的國家旅遊

and with the help of local knowledge, I'll be trying to find out what makes this place so special.

有了當地人的協助，我會試著找出究竟是什麼讓這個地方如此特別

Join me on my Journey Through India.

加入我漫遊印度的旅程吧

Roughly 300 miles south of Mumbai, Goa is India's smallest state.

位於孟買南方 300 英哩處，果牙是印度最小的一省

A Portuguese colony until 1961, the coastal region is now known for its music, nightlife and beaches.

它直到 1961 年以前都還是葡萄牙的殖民地，這個濱海地區以它的音樂、夜生活和海灘聞名

Not bad, eh?

不差吧？

I could spend a week just sitting on a beach in Goa, but we're here in low season so actually, it's a little bit quiet.

我可以在果牙的海灘度過一個禮拜，但我們其實是在淡季來到這裡，所以有一些安靜

However, there's still plenty to see and do in this beautiful part of India.

但是在印度這漂亮的一角還有很多要看和要做的事

High season in Goa runs from October through till January, but if you don't mind the odd downpour,

果牙旅遊旺季是從十月到一月，但若是你不介意偶爾的傾盆大雨

then low season is a good time to find cheaper room rates and deserted beaches.

那麼淡季就是個尋找便宜住宿和人煙稀少的沙灘的好時機

But no matter when you visit, there is one thing that stays the same throughout the year.

但不論你什麼時候來，有一件事全年都一樣

So the best way to get around Goa is on a scooter.

在果牙最好的交通方式是摩托車

There are scooter rental shops all over Goa, and to hire one for the day is around 300 rupees,

果牙全景都有摩托車出租店，租一台租全天的費用是大約 300 盧比 (約台幣 82)

which is less than $5 and it even comes with a helmet.

也就是低於 5 美金，而且還附上一頂安全帽

What do you think, good look?

你覺得如何，好看嗎？

There's no instruction on how to drive them.

沒有駕駛指導

The indicators on, so that's good.

指示燈亮了，所以可以騎了

Right then.

出發啦

Goa is split into two distinctive districts, north and south.

果牙被分為兩個很不同的區域，北區和南區

The north tends to attract a livelier crowd, while the south has a slower pace of life.

北區通常會吸引來比較活躍的人群，而南區則是有比較慢的生活步調

In both though, you'll find beautiful golden sand beaches and roads that wind through leafy green hills.

不過無論在哪區，你都能找到美麗的黃金沙灘，和在綠意盎然的山丘間蜿蜒的小道

Watch out for the overtaking cars.

注意超車

How fast am I going? 15 km an hour?

我騎得多快？一小時 15 公里？

Now that is a view. That is the best of Goa.

這真的美景。這就是果牙最美的風景

Wow.

哇

Goa's beautiful coastline has been attracting visitors ever since the sixties.

果牙美麗的海岸線自 60 年代以來就在招攬觀光客

In the last five years, however, the number of tourists coming to Goa has almost tripled.

不過在過去五年，果牙的來客數甚至翻了三倍

This remarkable growth has attracted hoteliers and restaurateurs from all over India keen to invest in the state,

這驚人的成長也吸引來自印度全國各地企圖投資此地的飯店業者和餐廳業者

in the midst of its growing popularity.

也造成了人口成長

Hi, Saarthak?

嗨，沙塔克！

Hey man, how you doing?

嘿小子，你還好嗎？

Good, nice to meet you.

很好，很高興見到你

Welcome to Purple Martini.

歡迎來到紫色馬丁尼

Several years ago, Saarthak Gupta came to Goa with friends on holiday

幾年前，沙塔克．古普塔和朋友來到果牙度假

and loved it so much they decided to open a cliff top bar.

因為實在太愛這裡了，於是決定在這裡開一間崖上的酒吧

What a great spot.

地段真好

The place is known for sunsets.

這個地方以日落美景聞名

So we love partying in Goa. We were young guys at that time when we started off

所以我們很喜歡在果牙狂歡。我們剛開始時都還是年輕小夥子

and for us Goa was an excuse for us to come here.

對我們來說，果牙就是我們來這裡的原因

None of us are actually restaurateurs or hoteliers by profession, so we learnt it the hard way.

我們沒有人是專業的餐廳業者或是飯店業者，所以我們是透過一些慘痛經驗學習的

So we're just opening in a couple of hours, so everything is being set right now.

我們幾小時後就要開始營業了，所以現在所有東西都已經就定位

So you're emptying boxes full of booze.

所以你要把酒都拿出來

Liquor and beer.

烈酒和啤酒

And do you serve a purple martini?

那你們有供應紫色馬丁尼嗎？

Yeah that's the signature drink.

有啊，那是我們的招牌飲品

Okay, okay, what's in it?

原來如此，裡面有加什麼？

It's a vodka-based drink but I can't share the recipe with you.

基底是伏特加，不過我不能和你說配方

A secret recipe?

是秘密配方？

It's a secret recipe.

是秘密配方

I know that there's a lot of places, there must be a lot of competition.

我知道，還有很多地方，一定有很多的競爭業者

How hard is that?

競爭有多激烈？

Only on this street, there are about 20-odd restaurants.

光是在這條街，就有差不多 20 間不同的餐廳

So it takes time in Goa to build a brand and

所以在果牙要創立口碑需要花時間

you need to stand out because every restaurant is offering something.

你必須特別突出，因為每間餐廳都在提供些東西

So, for us, we've worked really hard and we've tried to stand out over time,

所以對我們來說，我們非常地努力，我們試著要獨樹一幟

and now we've become a brand, thankfully. But the competition is immense.

很幸運地，現在我們已經有了自己的品牌。但競爭還是很激烈

Turning my back on the sea, I'm heading inland towards Old Goa

轉身背對海岸，我要前往內陸老果牙

to see the colonial architecture and Catholic cathedrals that are part of the region's distinctive Portuguese heritage.

去看看那些殖民建築和天主教教堂，也是這個地方獨特的葡萄牙遺產

Throughout Goa you'll find beautiful churches like this, built in the 17th century when Portugal ruled Goa.

在果牙各處，你能夠找到像是這種漂亮的教堂，建於 17 世紀葡萄牙統治時期

This is called the Basilica of Bom Jesus and not only is it a Unesco World Heritage Site

它被稱為慈悲耶穌大殿，它不僅是一個世界遺產建築

but it's also where St. Francis Xavier's remains are held.

同時也是聖方濟．沙勿略的安息地

Goa has had a wide array of rulers over the course of its history,

在歷史上，果牙有過許多不同的統治者

but it's the Portuguese whose legacy still lives on.

但其中就葡萄牙的建築留存至今

The 450-year reign was a chequered one.

這段 450 年的統治歷經了許多波折

While they established hospitals and schools, they also vigorously converted the locals to Christianity.

他們在建設醫院和學校的同時，也致力於向當地人傳基督教

Through the colonial-era mansions, the churches, the cuisine and even the language,

透過殖民時期別墅、教堂、料理，甚至是語言

Portuguese rule has left a vivid historical mark.

葡萄牙統治留下了生動的歷史印記

You may not know, but my great, great grandfather was Goan and Catholic so he may have come to this church.

你或許不知道，不過我的曾祖父就是個果牙人，還是個天主教徒，所以他或許來過這間教堂

It's quite nice to go back to where your ancestors are from.

回到自己的祖先來自的地方真的挺好的

History lesson over. It's time for me to experience something that's synonymous to Goan culture, music.

歷史課結束啦。現在是時候體驗果牙文化的精髓 —— 音樂

Across the region, but particularly in the north, you can catch live performances

在果牙境內，不過主要在北區，你可以找到各種的現場演唱

of everything from trance to traditional Konkani.

從出神音樂到傳統的孔卡尼都有

To learn more about Goa's music scene, I'm meeting up with Vivek Philip,

為了認識更多果牙的音樂會，我要和維維克．菲利浦見面

a music performer and producer who has been living in Goa for more than a decade.

他是一位音樂表演者和音樂製作人，已經在果牙住了超過十年

Vivek?

維維克？

Hey, Tom.

嘿，湯姆

Hi, nice to meet you.

嗨，很高興見到你

Nice to meet you.

很高興見到你

The nice thing about the Goan music community is it's not just local or Indian.

果牙音樂社群最棒的就是，它既非當地的也非印度式的

It's so global, we have people from all over the world who come here and they make music.

它很國際化，我們有來自世界各地的人們，他們來到這裡做音樂

And we interact, we exchange ideas and it's amazing.

然後我們會交流點子，真的很棒

A lot of people would recognize it as a big electronic music scene, EDM scene.

許多人或許會把它看成是一個大型的電子音樂會，電子舞會

Yeah, that's interesting because Goa's kind of been synonymous with trance and techno

是啊，那很有趣，因為果牙有點像被視為是出神音樂和鐵克諾音樂的同義詞

and not just Goa but all of India, the whole live music scene is coming back

而且不只是果牙，而是整個印度，現場的音樂會正在復甦

and now there's an interesting fusion between electronic music and live music which is taking place.

而現在有一種有趣的綜合體，介於電子樂和現場樂之間

A lot of creative, people who are working in music, are moving out of Bombay and coming to places like Goa?

許多有創意的音樂工作人士會從孟買搬到像是果牙的地方嗎？

Yeah initially I was telling a lot of my friends, "This is the place to move to now," and

會啊，最開始我告訴我許多的朋友，「這就是現在該搬去的地方」

you see the number of people moving here, and now you feel like, "Okay guys, that's enough."

然後你看到現在搬進這裡的人數，你就會覺得，「好哦大夥們，人夠多了。」

What an interesting man Vivek is and what a great place Goa has been, I've absolutely loved it.

維維克真是個有趣的人，果牙也是個好地方，我真的很喜歡這裡

But this has got to be my last one because I've got to catch a train in the morning.

不過這就是我最後一杯了，我明天早上還要趕火車

For many people, Goa is a holiday destination for beachgoers who want to party.

對許多人來說，果牙是一個適合喜歡開派對的海灘愛好者度假的地點

It is that, but also so much more.

的確是這樣，但也不只是這樣

The history and architecture here make it unique to the rest of India and if you happen to come in low season,

這裡的歷史和建築物使得它比印度其他地區都要獨特，而且若是你剛好在淡季來訪

fear not, it's the perfect time to appreciate its laid-back culture and experience 'real' Goan life.

不用怕無聊，這正是欣賞它悠閒的文化、體驗真的果牙生活的時候

But now onto our next stop.

不過現在該是到下一站的時候了

We're at Vasco Da Gama train station. We're about to catch a 16-hour sleeper train to Bangalore.

我們在瓦斯科．達伽馬車站。我們要搭一台要開 16 小時去班加羅爾的臥鋪火車

Okay, so this is inside the train and it's pretty basic,

好了，這裡是車廂內部，看起來很基本

but you've got an incredible view and what better way to see some of the countryside.

不過你能看到很棒的景致，也是遊覽鄉間風光最好的方式

Another reason to take the train to Bangalore is Dudhsagar Falls.

另一個搭火車到班加羅爾的原因，是為了看 Dudhsagar 瀑布

At just under 2,000 feet, this is the second-highest waterfall in India

高近 2000 英尺 (約 600 公尺)，這是印度境內第二高的瀑布

and the railway line actually crosses over it, offering some amazing views.

鐵軌其實剛好橫跨其上，恰好提供給我們一些絕佳的風景

It's definitely worth it, that is absolutely stunning.

這絕對值得，真的令人嘆為觀止

These huge waterfalls and the train runs right past them.

這些巨大的瀑布，火車海港還開過它們

It's about 7.30 pm and they've just served dinner,

差不多七點半了，他們在上晚餐

which I thought would be on a sort of big silver platter but it's served like this.

我還以為會是用一大個銀盤，不過是這樣

A nice little lentil dish. Move one of the five water bottles out the way.

一碗很棒的扁豆料理。把這一瓶水挪一下

We sort of take a bit of that, mix it with some rice.

拿一些這個，然後和一些飯混在一起

Mmm, not bad. A bit of a kick, that's fine.

嗯，還不錯。味道有點衝擊，不過很好

It's better than you get on any British train, that's for sure.

比你在任何英國火車會吃到的都要好，我很確定

Traveling by train is a quintessential Indian experience and with more than 7,000 train stations scattered across the country,

火車旅遊是印度旅遊的精髓所在，全國上下有超過七千座火車站

this is one of the largest networks in the world.

這也是世界上其中一個最大的交通網

Sleeper trains also offer the chance to travel huge distances

臥鋪火車讓人有機會用便宜的價格長途旅行

for not much more than the price of a mid-range hotel room.

價格不比中規格的飯店房間貴

Right, it's bedtime, and I've got the bottom bunk which I think is a good thing.

好，到睡覺時間了，我睡下鋪，我想這是好事

They've provided me with a pillow, two sheets, and they're very nice and clean, and a blanket.

他們給了我一個枕頭、兩張床單，它們很好而且很乾淨，還有一條毯子

Now I've got to just move this bunk up like this. Little hook comes down and that attaches under here.

現在我要把這個床鋪用起來。用小勾子勾住下方

There you go, that's one but better make sure you're safe.

好啦，不過最好再加一個確保安全

You don't want one of those coming down on you in the middle of the night.

你不會想要半夜睡到一半被這個打到

Right, better get some sleep before we get to Bangalore.

好了，最好在抵達班加羅爾前睡一下

My feet are hanging over the end and hopefully they won't block anyone walking down the aisle

我的腳懸在床尾，希望不會擋到別人過走道

but for now, this'll do nicely, night.

就目前為止一切都很好，晚安了

Hi guys, thanks very much for joining us on our Journey Through India.

嗨各位，非常謝謝你們加入我們漫遊印度的旅程

If you want to see our first episode in Mumbai, then click here.

如果你想看我們在孟買的第一集，點選這裡

Or to check out our next stop in Bangalore click here.

或是點選這裡到我們的下一站班加羅爾

And do let us know what your favorite destinations are and don't forget to subscribe.

記得告訴我們你最喜歡的旅遊地是哪裡，還有別忘了訂閱