Name: 起草適合您的娃娃的襯衫圖案 (Drafting a shirt pattern to fit your doll)
Uploaded: 2021-01-14T07:05:50.000Z
Duration: 10 min 6 s
Description: 【看影片學英語】數萬部 YouTube 影片，搭配英漢字典即點即查，輕鬆掌握單字發音與用法，長久累積看電影不必再看字幕。

to 不定詞

Hello, everyone! This is Lomi, and today I'll be showing you how to make a t-shirt pattern for a doll using

未來簡單式

measurements. Since I'll be showing you how to measure a doll for it, there will be doll nudity, so

if you aren't comfortable with that, you may want to watch a different video.

So for this project, you'll need a pencil, a ruler, a measuring tape, and some paper.

You'll also need a doll to measure. For this, I'll use my new Mystic Kids Lillian, since I

haven't finished any patterns for her yet.

Since the sizing is so small, I'm measuring in centimeters.

The first measurement to take is the width of the shoulders.

Measure across the doll's back, from shoulder top to shoulder top.

In dolls, it works best to measure from the middle of the top of each arm.

Next, measure around the fullest part of the doll's chest.

You don't want your measuring tape to be right against the doll's neck unless that's where

you want the collar to rest. Instead, loosen it just a bit.

I add a centimeter to mine, so I get eight centimeters.

If you're going off company webpage measurements, you can use the arm length for a good standard.

Otherwise, go over the fullest part of the chest.

Last time I tried making a pattern for a slim mini, I wasn't happy with the length

of the sleeve, so I double check what I used.

For my sleeve length this time, I'll use 4 centimeters.

The last measurement to take is for the sleeve width.

You can go around the doll's arm if you want, but it's usually better to measure the hand

instead to be sure it will slide on over their fingers.

Now you'll want to divide your measurements to get the measurements we'll be drawing with.

Divide the shoulder measurements in half.

4.75 centimeters is hard to measure, so I round up to 4.8.

Divide the neck measurements by four as well.

Now it's time to draw our patterns. We'll start with the back.

I actually don't have a right angle ruler, so I trace around an index card to start my lines.

Then we'll extend the side line until it's the length we want our shirt to be, so for

me, that's 13 centimeters. Whoops, that's not in frame, is it?

Next, measure from the corner and mark one quarter of your neck measurement on the top line.

Also on the top line, measure from the corner, and mark half of your shoulder measurement.

On mine, that's 3 and a half centimeters.

On this piece, we create the curve of the neck by drawing a line up from the neck marker.

In human pattern making, we'd raise it based on standard sizes, such as large or medium.

There's no such thing as a standard size BJD, but you can get close by going off your doll's

For mini and YoSD dolls, I've found half a centimeter works well.

For SD, 7 millimeters works well, and for 70CM dolls, I use one centimeter.

For anything smaller than YoSD, it only needs to be two or three millimeters.

Once you've raised the neck line according to your doll's size, connect this new line

to the shoulder width mark to create the shoulder slope. Then round the neckline.

You can freehand it, or use a French curve if you have one.

Now we'll create the curve for the sleeve.

From the top line, measure down the side and mark one half your sleeve width measurement.

Using an index card or a right angle ruler, line up the shoulder mark and this new mark

on the side, then close the square to create a sleeve edge and begin the chest line.

Measuring out from the side line, extend the horizontal chest line to one quarter your chest measurement.

From the end of this line, we can close the side and bottom to create the lower part of

Round out the bottom of the sleeve hole using a French curve, or just freehand it.

I label it and trace the edges with a marker so they'll be easier to follow.

Now we'll draw the front piece. Oh, I bumped the camera.

I just built this overhead camera mount and I'm not used to it yet, I'm sorry.

Okay. To draw the front piece, we'll start the same way.

Create a right angle in a mirror image of what you made before.

So if you drew a left corner before, like me, you'll draw a right corner now.

Once again, extend the side line to the length you want for your shirt.

Then on the top line, mark one quarter of your neck measurement, and one half of your

shoulder measurement. Two and three and a half centimeters for me, respectively.

Now, to create the neckline on the front, you'll measure down the side line and mark

one quarter of the neck measurement on the side to create a nice rounded front neck.

Again, you can create the rounded curve freehanded, or with a curve ruler.

Next, mark one half of the sleeve width on the side line.

Just like on the back piece, connect this mark to the shoulder mark with a right angle.

Then extend the chest line to one quarter of your chest measurement, close the side

and bottom of the pattern, and round the bottom of the sleeve hole.

The sleeve hole is actually called an armscye, but I've never heard anyone say that.

To finish the front, we need to create a shoulder slope here as well.

But instead of measuring up from the neckline, we're going to bring it down at the sleeve edge.

Half a centimeter again, since this is for a mini.

Draw the shoulder slope and now the front piece is done.

When you cut one of these with the edge on a fold, it'll give you a perfect front.

Before you cut anything out, make sure the shoulder slope is the same width.

Then we'll make the sleeve, so cut out the back and line it up against the front piece

Before making the sleeve, it's a good idea to measure along the edge of the sleeve hole

to be sure it's close to the measurement you took for your sleeve width.

That's fine, because our sleeve will grow just a little too, when we add the curve to

I write down this measurement so I don't forget what my finished piece will be.

Just like the other two pieces, start with a right angle.

Like the shoulder slope, this depends on standard sizing for human patterns.

For dolls, it works best if it's based off your doll's overall size.