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  • So in the oasis of intelligentsia that is TED,

    身在知識份子界的綠洲 — TED,

  • I stand here before you this evening

    今晚我來到各位面前,

  • as an expert in dragging heavy stuff around cold places.

    以拖著笨重物周遊寒冷地區的專家之姿站在台上

  • I've been leading polar expeditions for most of my adult life,

    我成年之後就一直帶領極地遠征隊,

  • and last month, my teammate Tarka L'Herpiniere and I

    上個月,我和夥伴塔卡.雷聶尼爾

  • finished the most ambitious expedition I've ever attempted.

    完成了我到目前為止最具企圖心的遠征

  • In fact, it feels like I've been transported straight here

    其實我感覺好像直接被送來這裡,

  • from four months in the middle of nowhere,

    在偏遠的某處度過悶哼使勁、詛咒連連的四個月之後,

  • mostly grunting and swearing, straight to the TED stage.

    直接上了 TED 舞台

  • So you can imagine that's a transition that hasn't been entirely seamless.

    你可以說這個過渡期並非完全無縫接軌

  • One of the interesting side effects

    有個很有趣的副作用

  • seems to be that my short-term memory is entirely shot.

    就是我的短期記憶似乎全都一閃而過

  • So I've had to write some notes

    所以我得做小抄

  • to avoid too much grunting and swearing in the next 17 minutes.

    免得接下來的 17 分鐘有太多悶哼聲與詛咒

  • This is the first talk I've given about this expedition,

    這是我在這趟遠征後的首次演說,

  • and while we weren't sequencing genomes or building space telescopes,

    儘管我們不是做了基因定序或架設太空望遠鏡,

  • this is a story about giving everything we had to achieve something

    但這段故事也是關於我們放棄一切

  • that hadn't been done before.

    去達成前所未有的事

  • So I hope in that you might find some food for thought.

    希望你們能從中獲得一些精神糧食

  • It was a journey, an expedition in Antarctica,

    這趟遠征南極洲的旅程

  • the coldest, windiest, driest and highest altitude continent on Earth.

    是在地球上最冷、風最大、最乾燥,海拔也最高的洲

  • It's a fascinating place. It's a huge place.

    那是很棒、很大的地方

  • It's twice the size of Australia,

    比澳洲大兩倍,

  • a continent that is the same size as China and India put together.

    就跟中國和印度加起來一樣大

  • As an aside, I have experienced

    順帶一提,最近幾天

  • an interesting phenomenon in the last few days,

    我經歷了一種很有意思的現象,

  • something that I expect Chris Hadfield may get at TED in a few years' time,

    我預料幾年後克里斯.哈德菲爾德也會在 TED 經歷到

  • conversations that go something like this:

    像這樣的對話:

  • "Oh, Antarctica. Awesome.

    「哇!南極洲,真棒!

  • My husband and I did Antarctica with Lindblad for our anniversary."

    我和老公結婚四週年的時候參加領步探險去過南極洲。」

  • Or, "Oh cool, did you go there for the marathon?"

    或是「酷耶!你是去跑馬拉松嗎?」

  • (Laughter)

    (笑聲)

  • Our journey was, in fact, 69 marathons back to back

    我們的旅程其實就是連續 69 趟馬拉松,

  • in 105 days, an 1,800-mile round trip on foot from the coast of Antarctica

    105 天徒步走完來回 1,800 哩路,

  • to the South Pole and back again.

    從南極海岸到南極點,再回頭

  • In the process, we broke the record

    這趟路我們打破記錄

  • for the longest human-powered polar journey in history by more than 400 miles.

    比史上用人力完成的最長極地旅程還長 400 哩

  • (Applause)

    (掌聲)

  • For those of you from the Bay Area,

    對在座住灣區的人來說,

  • it was the same as walking from here to San Francisco,

    這段路就等於從這裡走到舊金山,

  • then turning around and walking back again.

    然後再走回去

  • So as camping trips go, it was a long one,

    以露營旅行來說,這是長途旅行,

  • and one I've seen summarized most succinctly here

    我看過最簡潔的說法

  • on the hallowed pages of Business Insider Malaysia.

    是出現在《馬來西亞商業內幕》神聖的一頁裡

  • ["Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]

    「兩名探險家完成極地遠征,前次挑戰探險隊無一生還」

  • Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently

    克里斯.哈德菲爾德說得很清楚,

  • about fear and about the odds of success, and indeed the odds of survival.

    他談到恐懼、成功的機率,還有存活的機率

  • Of the nine people in history that had attempted this journey before us,

    在我們之前,史上有九個人嘗試這趟旅程,

  • none had made it to the pole and back,

    沒有人成功往返南極點,

  • and five had died in the process.

    其中五人在路上過世了

  • This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.

    這是羅伯特.法爾肯.史考特上尉,

  • He led the last team to attempt this expedition.

    他帶領前次遠征

  • Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,

    史考特和對手歐內斯特.沙克爾頓爵士

  • over the space of a decade,

    在十年之間

  • both led expeditions battling to become the first to reach the South Pole,

    都帶著遠征隊,爭著想成為抵達南極的第一人,

  • to chart and map the interior of Antarctica,

    並繪製南極洲的地圖,

  • a place we knew less about, at the time,

    在當時南極是鮮為人知的地方,

  • than the surface of the moon,

    比月球表面還神秘,

  • because we could see the moon through telescopes.

    因為我們至少能透過望遠鏡來看月球

  • Antarctica was, for the most part, a century ago, uncharted.

    南極洲大部分在百年前的地圖上都還沒標出來

  • Some of you may know the story.

    在座可能有人知道這個故事

  • Scott's last expedition, the Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,

    史考特最後一次遠征,1910 年的新世界遠征隊,

  • started as a giant siege-style approach.

    以大型極地遠征法啟程

  • He had a big team using ponies,

    浩蕩的隊伍用小馬、狗

  • using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors,

    和汽油發動的拖拉機

  • dropping multiple, pre-positioned depots of food and fuel

    在預選的補給站卸下食物和燃料,

  • through which Scott's final team of five would travel to the Pole,

    因此史考特的五人小隊才能抵達南極點,

  • where they would turn around and ski back to the coast again on foot.

    隨後滑雪、徒步回到岸邊

  • Scott and his final team of five

    史考特和最後的五人小隊

  • arrived at the South Pole in January 1912

    1912 年一月抵達南極點的時候,

  • to find they had been beaten to it by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,

    才發現羅爾德.亞孟森帶領的挪威探險隊已打敗他們,

  • who rode on dogsled.

    而且他們是駕狗拉雪橇

  • Scott's team ended up on foot.

    史考特隊以徒步告結

  • And for more than a century this journey has remained unfinished.

    一百多年來,還沒有人完成這趟旅程

  • Scott's team of five died on the return journey.

    史考特的五人小隊在回程途中全軍覆沒

  • And for the last decade,

    近十年來,

  • I've been asking myself why that is.

    我一直不斷問自己為什麼會這樣

  • How come this has remained the high-water mark?

    為什麼到現在仍難以實現?

  • Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot.

    史考特隊伍徒步走了 1,600 哩,

  • No one's come close to that ever since.

    從此之後無人能及

  • So this is the high-water mark of human endurance,

    因此這可以說是人類在地球上最嚴酷的氣候中

  • human endeavor, human athletic achievement

    所能忍受、努力與體能的極限

  • in arguably the harshest climate on Earth.

    這就好像馬拉松記錄,

  • It was as if the marathon record

    從 1912 年到現在沒人能打破記錄一樣

  • has remained unbroken since 1912.

    當然混雜著一些奇怪

  • And of course some strange and predictable combination of curiosity,

    和料想得到的好奇心與倔強,

  • stubbornness, and probably hubris

    也許還有點自大,

  • led me to thinking I might be the man to try to finish the job.

    讓我想也許自己能成為完成目標的那個人

  • Unlike Scott's expedition, there were just two of us,

    不像史考特遠征隊,我們只有兩個人,

  • and we set off from the coast of Antarctica in October last year,

    去年十月我們從南極洲海岸出發,

  • dragging everything ourselves,

    自己拖全部的東西,

  • a process Scott called "man-hauling."

    史考特說這個過程是「人力拖運」

  • When I say it was like walking from here to San Francisco and back,

    雖然我剛說那就像從這走到舊金山再回來,

  • I actually mean it was like dragging something that weighs a shade more

    其實是像拉著

  • than the heaviest ever NFL player.

    比最重的國家聯盟橄欖球員還重一點的東西

  • Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,

    我們的雪橇有 200 公斤重,

  • or 440 pounds each at the start,

    就是說一開始每個就有 440 磅,

  • the same weights that the weakest of Scott's ponies pulled.

    和史考特最弱的小馬拖的一樣重

  • Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour.

    初期我們平均時速是 0.5 哩

  • Perhaps the reason no one had attempted this journey until now,

    也許過去沒人嘗試走這趟旅程,

  • in more than a century,

    超過一個世紀,

  • was that no one had been quite stupid enough to try.

    是因為沒人會笨到去嘗試

  • And while I can't claim we were exploring

    雖然我無法名正言順地聲稱

  • in the genuine Edwardian sense of the word

    我們是名符其實的愛德華時代探險,

  • we weren't naming any mountains or mapping any uncharted valleys

    因為我們沒有命名任何山或畫出不在地圖上的山谷,

  • I think we were stepping into uncharted territory in a human sense.

    但我想我們踏進了人類未知的領域

  • Certainly, if in the future we learn there is an area of the human brain

    確實,如果未來我們發現人腦有個部分

  • that lights up when one curses oneself,

    會在你詛咒自己的時候發光,

  • I won't be at all surprised.

    我也一點都不驚訝

  • You've heard that the average American spends 90 percent of their time indoors.

    大家都聽過美國人普遍有九成時間待在室內,

  • We didn't go indoors for nearly four months.

    我們卻有將近四個月不在室內

  • We didn't see a sunset either.

    我們也沒看到日落,

  • It was 24-hour daylight.

    因為太陽 24 小時亮著

  • Living conditions were quite spartan.

    居住環境很艱苦

  • I changed my underwear three times in 105 days

    105 天裡我才換了三次內衣,

  • and Tarka and I shared 30 square feet on the canvas.

    塔卡和我共用不到 30 平方英尺的帆布

  • Though we did have some technology that Scott could never have imagined.

    不過我們還有些設備是史考特永遠無法想像的

  • And we blogged live every evening from the tent via a laptop

    我們每天晚上在帳蓬裡用筆電寫實況部落格,

  • and a custom-made satellite transmitter,

    還有特製的衛星發射器,

  • all of which were solar-powered:

    這些全都用太陽能發電,

  • we had a flexible photovoltaic panel over the tent.

    我們有塊彈性光電板在帳篷上

  • And the writing was important to me.

    寫作對我來說很重要,

  • As a kid, I was inspired by the literature of adventure and exploration,

    小時候我就深受冒險與探索文學激勵,

  • and I think we've all seen here this week

    我想這個星期我們都看到了

  • the importance and the power of storytelling.

    說故事的重要性與力量

  • So we had some 21st-century gear,

    我們有 21 世紀的設備,

  • but the reality is that the challenges that Scott faced

    但事實上史考特面臨的挑戰

  • were the same that we faced:

    和我們面臨的一樣,

  • those of the weather and of what Scott called glide,

    像是那裡的天氣、史考特所說的滑行,

  • the amount of friction between the sledges and the snow.

    就是雪橇和雪之間的磨擦力

  • The lowest wind chill we experienced was in the -70s,

    我們碰過的最低風寒指數是 -70 多,

  • and we had zero visibility, what's called white-out,

    能見度是零,就是一片白朦,

  • for much of our journey.

    幾乎全程都是如此。

  • We traveled up and down one of the largest

    我們越過世界上最大

  • and most dangerous glaciers in the world, the Beardmore glacier.

    且最危險的冰川之一 — 比爾德摩爾冰川

  • It's 110 miles long; most of its surface is what's called blue ice.

    冰川有 110 哩長,表面大多是藍冰

  • You can see it's a beautiful, shimmering steel-hard blue surface

    你可以看到那是漂亮、閃亮,像鋼一樣硬的藍色表面,

  • covered with thousands and thousands of crevasses,

    覆蓋了成千上萬層冰隙,

  • these deep cracks in the glacial ice up to 200 feet deep.

    這些冰川裡的裂縫深達 200 呎

  • Planes can't land here,

    飛機無法在這裡降落,

  • so we were at the most risk,

    所以說我們身在風險最大的地方,

  • technically, when we had the slimmest chance of being rescued.

    嚴格說來,我們獲救的機會微乎其微

  • We got to the South Pole after 61 days on foot,

    徒步走 61 天後我們抵達南極點,

  • with one day off for bad weather,

    因為天氣差多休息了一天,

  • and I'm sad to say, it was something of an anticlimax.

    不得不說那真有點掃興

  • There's a permanent American base,

    南極有個常駐的美國基地 —

  • the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station at the South Pole.

    阿蒙森—斯科特南極站

  • They have an airstrip, they have a canteen,

    他們有簡易跑道、餐廳,

  • they have hot showers,

    可以洗熱水澡,

  • they have a post office, a tourist shop,

    有郵局、紀念品店,

  • a basketball court that doubles as a movie theater.

    還有籃球場兼電影院

  • So it's a bit different these days,

    所以今非昔比啊!

  • and there are also acres of junk.

    不過那裡也有超多垃圾

  • I think it's a marvelous thing

    我覺得很不可思議的是

  • that humans can exist 365 days of the year

    人類可以生活一整年

  • with hamburgers and hot showers and movie theaters,

    每天只靠漢堡、熱水澡和電影院,

  • but it does seem to produce a lot of empty cardboard boxes.

    但這似乎會製造很多空紙盒

  • You can see on the left of this photograph,

    你可以看到照片的左邊

  • several square acres of junk

    有幾英畝垃圾

  • waiting to be flown out from the South Pole.

    等著運出南極

  • But there is also a pole at the South Pole,

    但南極也有個極點,

  • and we got there on foot, unassisted,

    我們徒步抵達,

  • unsupported, by the hardest route,

    毫無援助,走最艱難的路線,

  • 900 miles in record time,

    用破記錄的時間完成 900 哩,

  • dragging more weight than anyone in history.

    還拖著比史上任何人都還重的東西

  • And if we'd stopped there and flown home,

    如果我們就此打住,直接飛回家,

  • which would have been the eminently sensible thing to do,

    這樣的決定看起來非常合理,

  • then my talk would end here

    那我的演說就會到此告一段落,

  • and it would end something like this.

    而且以這樣結尾:

  • If you have the right team around you, the right tools, the right technology,

    如果你和對的團體在一起,擁有對的工具和科技,

  • and if you have enough self-belief and enough determination,

    如果你有足夠的信念和決心,

  • then anything is possible.

    那麼任何事都有可能實現

  • But then we turned around,

    但是後來我們轉身繼續走回程,

  • and this is where things get interesting.

    這件事就有點意思了

  • High on the Antarctic plateau,

    在南極高原上,

  • over 10,000 feet, it's very windy, very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.

    超過一萬呎,風超大、超冷、超乾,我們都精疲力盡了

  • We'd covered 35 marathons,

    我們已經完成了 35 趟馬拉松,

  • we were only halfway,

    但這只完成一半,

  • and we had a safety net, of course,

    當然我們有安全措施,

  • of ski planes and satellite phones

    像是雪地飛機、衛星電話、

  • and live, 24-hour tracking beacons that didn't exist for Scott,

    24 小時即時追蹤信標,當時史考特可沒有這些東西,

  • but in hindsight,

    但事後看來,

  • rather than making our lives easier,

    與其說能讓生活好過一點,

  • the safety net actually allowed us

    不如說安全措施讓我們

  • to cut things very fine indeed,

    能把事情做到最精準,

  • to sail very close to our absolute limits as human beings.

    讓我們能完全發揮到人類極限

  • And it is an exquisite form of torture

    這是種最極致的折磨,

  • to exhaust yourself to the point of starvation day after day

    日復一日耗盡力氣直到餓扁肚子,

  • while dragging a sledge full of food.

    而且還拉著滿雪橇的食物

  • For years, I'd been writing glib lines in sponsorship proposals

    幾年來,我總是在募款計畫上寫些好聽話,

  • about pushing the limits of human endurance,

    說我們要超越人類極限,

  • but in reality, that was a very frightening place to be indeed.

    但其實那裡是非常嚇人的地方

  • We had, before we'd got to the Pole,

    在我們抵達南極點之前,

  • two weeks of almost permanent headwind, which slowed us down.

    幾乎吹了整整兩週的逆風,降低了我們的速度

  • As a result, we'd had several days of eating half rations.

    結果我們有幾天只能吃一半

  • We had a finite amount of food in the sledges to make this journey,

    雪橇上讓我們走完整趟路的食物有限,

  • so we were trying to string that out

    所以我們要試著節省食物,

  • by reducing our intake to half the calories we should have been eating.

    減半攝取原本應該有的熱量

  • As a result, we both became increasingly hypoglycemic

    結果我們的低血糖日趨嚴重,

  • we had low blood sugar levels day after day

    我們的血糖一天天降低,

  • and increasingly susceptible to the extreme cold.

    而且越來越容易受酷寒天候影響

  • Tarka took this photo of me one evening

    塔卡有天晚上幫我拍了這張照片,

  • after I'd nearly passed out with hypothermia.

    我才差點因為失溫而暈倒

  • We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia, something I hadn't experienced before,

    我們一次又一次面臨失溫,這是我以前從沒碰過的事,

  • and it was very humbling indeed.

    真讓人自覺渺小

  • As much as you might like to think, as I do,

    你很可能會有種想法,我也是,

  • that you're the kind of person who doesn't quit,

    你自認是那種永不放棄的人,

  • that you'll go down swinging,

    你會光榮退場,

  • hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice.

    但失溫讓你毫無選擇

  • You become utterly incapacitated.

    你會變得很沒用,

  • It's like being a drunk toddler.

    就像是個喝醉的學步幼兒,

  • You become pathetic.

    變得很悲慘

  • I remember just wanting to lie down and quit.

    我記得當時只想躺下,就此放棄

  • It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling,

    那是種很怪的感覺,

  • and a real surprise to me to be debilitated to that degree.

    而且累到那個程度也真是嚇到我了

  • And then we ran out of food completely,

    後來我們吃完了全部的食物,

  • 46 miles short of the first of the depots

    離第一個補給站還有 46 哩路,

  • that we'd laid on our outward journey.

    我們為出遠門準備了糧食補給站

  • We'd laid 10 depots of food,

    我們準備了 10 個補給站的食物,

  • literally burying food and fuel, for our return journey

    基本上就是把回程的食物和燃料埋起來,

  • the fuel was for a cooker so you could melt snow to get water

    燃料是為了煮冰,我們才能有水喝,

  • and I was forced to make the decision to call for a resupply flight,

    我被迫決定聯絡補給機,

  • a ski plane carrying eight days of food to tide us over that gap.

    這種雪地飛機會運送八天份食物讓我們度過難關

  • They took 12 hours to reach us from the other side of Antarctica.

    他們花了 12 小時才從南極的另一端找到我們

  • Calling for that plane was one of the toughest decisions of my life.

    請求飛機支援是我生命中很困難的決定

  • And I sound like a bit of a fraud standing here now with a sort of belly.

    聽起來我就像是個有大肚腩的騙子站在這裡

  • I've put on 30 pounds in the last three weeks.

    最近三週我胖了 30 磅

  • Being that hungry has left an interesting mental scar,

    那種飢餓在心裡留下了一種有意思的恐懼,

  • which is that I've been hoovering up every hotel buffet that I can find.

    讓我四處狂掃每家飯店的吃到飽自助餐

  • (Laughter)

    (笑聲)

  • But we were genuinely quite hungry, and in quite a bad way.

    但是我們真的超餓,完全餓壞了

  • I don't regret calling for that plane for a second,

    我從沒後悔向飛機呼救,

  • because I'm still standing here alive,

    因為我還活著,

  • with all digits intact, telling this story.

    十指健全站在這裡說故事

  • But getting external assistance like that was never part of the plan,

    但是尋求像那樣的外部援助完全不在計畫中,

  • and it's something my ego is still struggling with.

    我的自尊心仍掙扎不已

  • This was the biggest dream I've ever had,

    這曾是我此生最大的夢想,

  • and it was so nearly perfect.

    差一點就完美了

  • On the way back down to the coast,

    走回海岸的路上,

  • our cramponsthey're the spikes on our boots

    我們的冰爪 — 裝在靴子上的釘鞋,

  • that we have for traveling over this blue ice on the glacier

    用來在冰川的藍冰上行走,

  • broke on