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HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, WE'RE HANGING WITH THE HABSBURGS IN VIENNA.
THANKS, FOR JOINING US.
VIENNA HAS BEEN CALLED A HEAD WITHOUT A BODY.
FOR OVER 600 YEARS, THE CAPITAL
OF THE ONCE-MIGHTY HABSBURG EMPIRE,
IT STARTED AND LOST WORLD WAR I,
AND WITH THAT, ITS FAR-FLUNG HOLDINGS.
TODAY, YOU'LL FIND AN ELEGANT CAPITAL
RULING A RELATIVELY INSIGNIFICANT
LITTLE LAND-LOCKED COUNTRY -- AUSTRIA --
HISTORICALLY, CULTURALLY,
AND FROM A SIGHTSEEING POINT OF VIEW,
VIENNA IS THE SUM OF AN ILLUSTRIOUS PAST.
WE'LL EXPLORE THE PALACE,
PICNIC ON THE DANUBE,
BAKE A STRUDEL,
VISIT AN EXTRAORDINARY GOTHIC CATHEDRAL,
CHASE BUTTERFLIES,
MARVEL AT THE CROWN JEWELS,
AND, OF COURSE, DO A LITTLE WALTZING.
VIENNA HAS LONG BEEN
THE EASTERNMOST CITY OF THE WEST.
IN ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES,
IT WAS VINDOBONA, ON THE DANUBE,
FACING THE GERMANIC BARBARIANS JUST BEYOND.
IN THE MIDDLE AGES,
IT WAS EUROPE'S BASTION AGAINST THE OTTOMAN TURKS --
A KIND OF CHRISTIAN BREAKWATER AGAINST A RISING TIDE OF ISLAM.
THROUGHOUT THE COLD WAR,
NEUTRAL VIENNA GINGERLY MAINTAINED ITS FREEDOM
WHILE NEARLY SURROUNDED
BY COMMUNIST AND SOVIET-DOMINATED STATES.
BUT NOW, WITH SO MANY OF THOSE EASTERN BLOCK NATIONS
JOINING THE E.U.,
VIENNA FINDS ITSELF FIRMLY IN THE MIDDLE OF EUROPE.
THE GERMAN-SPEAKING LOCALS CALL THEIR TOWN WIEN.
IT'S THE MELTING-POT CAPITAL OF A NOW-COLLAPSED EMPIRE
THAT ONCE HAD OVER 50 MILLION PEOPLE.
BUT OF ALL THOSE PEOPLE,
ONLY ABOUT EIGHT MILLION WERE AUSTRIAN.
THE TRULY VIENNESE PERSON
IS A SECOND-GENERATION HABSBURG COCKTAIL,
WITH GRANDPARENTS
FROM THE DISTANT CORNERS OF ITS OLD EMPIRE --
HUNGARIANS, CZECHS, SLOVAKS, POLES, SLOVENES, JEWS,
SERBIANS, ROMANIANS, ITALIANS, AND MORE.
AFTER THE DEFEAT OF NAPOLEON,
VIENNA HOSTED A HUGE DIPLOMATIC CONVENTION IN 1815.
THAT CONGRESS OF VIENNA
STABILIZED AND SHAPED 19th CENTURY EUROPE.
AND THAT'S THE AGE THAT SHAPED OUR ROMANTIC IMAGE
OF THE CITY --
SWIRLING ORCHESTRAS,
EIFFEL-ERA FERRIS WHEELS,
AND GRAND ARCHITECTURE.
A CENTURY LATER, AFTER LOSING WORLD WAR I AND ITS EMPIRE,
VIENNA'S JUST MORE LAID-BACK.
TODAY, ENJOYING THE FACT THAT ITS SUPERPOWER DAYS ARE OVER,
VIENNA IS SIMPLY AN EXPERT AT GOOD LIVING,
AND THAT INCLUDES PERHAPS EUROPE'S FINEST CHOCOLATE CAKE,
THE SACHER TORTE.
DEMEL'S CAFE AND BAKERY
IS MUCH-LOVED FOR ITS CAKES AND PASTRIES.
THIS PLACE WAS THE EMPEROR'S CHOICE BACK IN THE 19th CENTURY.
CUSTOMERS ENJOY A CLOSE-UP LOOK AT THE COOKING.
THE FAMOUS SACHER TORTE
IS MADE TO ORDER FOR CHOCOHOLICS.
APART FROM ITS APRICOT FILLING,
THE RECIPE SEEMS PRETTY SIMPLE --
CHOCOLATE ON CHOCOLATE.
VIENNA'S TASTY CUISINE, LIKE ITS OLD EMPIRE,
IS MULTINATIONAL.
THE VIENNA SCHNITZEL, OR WIENER SCHNITZEL,
IT SHOULD BE AN ITALIAN SCHNITZEL, IT'S FROM MILAN.
THE DUMPLINGS, THEY'RE FROM BOHEMIA.
GOULASH, THAT'S HUNGARIAN,
AND THE APPLE STRUDEL -- THAT'S A MIX OF EAST AND WEST.
THE STRUDEL DOUGH -- A WHEAT-BASED FILO --
IS FROM THE TURKS -- THINK BAKLAVA.
AND THE APPLES, THEY'RE FROM GERMANY.
ADD SUGAR, CINNAMON, AND RUM RAISINS.
ROLL IT UP.
GLAZE WITH LEMON SAUCE,
POP IN THE OVEN, AND BEFORE YOU KNOW IT,
YOU'VE GOT YOUR APPLE STRUDEL.
TO ENJOY CAFE DEMEL CALORIE-FREE,
SAVOR ITS CHOCOLATE AND MARZIPAN WINDOW DISPLAYS.
THEY CHANGE REGULARLY,
AND REFLECT CURRENT HAPPENINGS IN TOWN.
THIS MERMAID CELEBRATES THE SUMMER --
TIME FOR SOME FUN IN THE SUN.
AND AS IF PROVIDING A FINE VENUE
TO WALK OFF THE CITY'S SWEET TEMPTATIONS,
A BIG PART OF VIENNA IS ITS FINE PARKS,
FILLED WITH STATUE-MAKER MEMORIES
OF AUSTRIA'S GLORY DAYS AND HIGH CULTURE.
THE ENTICING SHOPPING STREETS OF THE OLD TOWN
HAVE BEEN TRAFFIC-FREE SINCE THE 1970s.
WITH ITS ELEGANT STOREFRONTS AND LIVELY PEOPLE-WATCHING,
JUST TAKING A STROLL IS A DELIGHT.
HALT!
HISTORY IS EVERYWHERE.
EVEN IN THE STREET MUSICIANS.
THIS WELL-DECORATED MUSICAL GANG GOES BACK TO A DAY
WHEN AUSTRIA'S MILITARY MARCHING BANDS
HAD A MORE SERIOUS JOB TO DO.
ONE OF THE CHARMS OF VIENNA
IS HOW THINGS ARE SO CLOSE TOGETHER.
FOR GENERATIONS, SHOPPERS HAVE GRABBED
A QUICK LUNCH JUST AROUND THE CORNER.
BUFFET TRZESNIEWSKI IS AN INSTITUTION,
FAMOUS FOR ITS CHEAP AND CHARMING FINGER SANDWICHES.
SIMPLY POINT TO WHATEVER LOOKS TASTY.
THREE DIFFERENT SANDWICHES MAKE A LIGHT LUNCH.
I'M HAVING HAM AND EGGS, HERRING WITH ONION,
AND CHICKEN LIVER.
EIN PFIFF, BITTE.
THE TRADITIONAL DRINK HERE IS A TINY BEER CALLED A PFIFF.
FAST FOOD -- VIENNA-STYLE.
THE MASSIVE SAINT STEPHEN'S CATHEDRAL
IS THE GOTHIC NEEDLE AROUND WHICH VIENNA SPINS.
WHILE HEAVILY DAMAGED IN WORLD WAR II,
THE CHURCH SURVIVED.
TODAY, IT SYMBOLIZES THE CITY'S FREEDOM AND PROUD SPIRIT.
IN THE LAST DAYS OF THE WAR,
THE ORIGINAL TIMBERED GOTHIC ROOFTOP
WENT UP IN FLAMES.
SHORTLY AFTER THE WAR,
WITH A FINANCIAL OUTPOURING OF CIVIC PRIDE,
THE ROOF WAS REBUILT
IN ITS ORIGINAL, COLORFUL SPLENDOR.
THE CERAMIC TILES ARE PURELY DECORATIVE.
LOCALS WHO CONTRIBUTED,
EACH SYMBOLICALLY "OWN" ONE
FOR THEIR DONATION.
THE ORNATE NAVE IS GOTHIC WITH A BAROQUE OVERLAY.
WHILE THE COLUMNS SUPPORT THE ROOF,
THEY ALSO TELL A STORY.
RICHLY POPULATED WITH STATUES,
THEY MAKE A SAINTLY PARADE
THAT LEADS RIGHT UP TO THE HIGH ALTAR.
IN THIS STATUE OF MARY --
CALLED, "THE MADONNA WITH THE PROTECTIVE MANTLE" --
PEOPLE OF ALL WALKS OF LIFE SEEK AND FIND
REFUGE IN THE HOLY MOTHER.
NEARBY, SAINT SEBASTIAN --
WHO NEVER GOES ANYWHERE WITHOUT HIS ARROWS --
REMINDS THE FAITHFUL OF HIS MARTYRDOM.
THE CENTERPIECE OF THIS CATHEDRAL
DEDICATED TO SAINT STEPHEN IS A PAINTING
DEPICTING THE STONING
OF THE EARLY CHRISTIAN MARTYR HIMSELF.
WORLD WAR II DAMAGE WAS HEAVY INSIDE AND OUT.
PORTABLE TREASURES,
LIKE THIS 15th CENTURY ALTARPIECE,
WERE HIDDEN AWAY IN LOCAL CELLARS BEFORE THE BOMBS FELL.
BEFORE THE WAR, THE ENTIRE CHURCH WAS LIT
WITH WINDOWS LIKE THESE.
BUT MOST OF THE CHURCH'S FINE GLASS WAS DESTROYED.
THE TUPPERWARE-COLORED REPLACEMENTS
DATE FROM 1950.
THE GOTHIC PULPIT, CARVED FROM SANDSTONE, IS A MASTERPIECE.
ITS BUSY SYMBOLISM LEGITIMIZED THE GOSPEL MESSAGE
WHICH WAS READ FROM ITS LECTERN.
READINGS WERE LITERALLY AND FIGURATIVELY
SUPPORTED BY THE FOUR LATIN CHURCH FATHERS.
BELOW IT ALL IS A SELF-PORTRAIT
OF A SELF-ASSURED ARTIST PROUD OF HIS CREATION.
MOST GOTHIC ART WAS CREATED ANONYMOUSLY,
FOR THE GLORY OF GOD, NOT THE ARTIST.
BUT MUCH OF THE ART HERE WAS SCULPTED
AROUND THE YEAR 1500
WHEN THE RENAISSANCE SPIRIT, SO STRONG IN ITALY,
WAS CREEPING NORTH.
WITH THE HUMANISM OF THE RENAISSANCE,
MAN WAS ALLOWED TO SHINE --
AND ARTISTS -- LIKE ANTON PILGRAM,
A MASTER BUILDER OF THIS CATHEDRAL --
WERE RECOGNIZED AS CREATORS ALSO.
VIENNA'S OLD CENTER IS CORRALLED
BY ITS GRAND CIRCULAR RINGSTRASSE.
IN THE 1860s, EMPEROR FRANZ JOSEPH
HAD THE CITY'S INGROWN MEDIEVAL WALL TORN DOWN.
HE REPLACED IT WITH THIS IMPRESSIVE BOULEVARD
WHICH ARCS NEARLY THREE MILES AROUND THE CITY'S CORE.
ONE OF EUROPE'S GREAT STREETS,
THE RINGSTRASSE IS LINED
WITH MANY OF VIENNA'S TOP SIGHTS.
FOR A HANDY DO-IT-YOURSELF BUDGET TOUR,
HOP ON TRAM NUMBER ONE AND MAKE THE LOOP.
IN MY GUIDEBOOKS,
I LIKE TO DESCRIBE SELF-GUIDED TOURS
THAT TAKE ADVANTAGE
OF HANDY PUBLIC TRANSPORT ROUTES LIKE THIS.
BECAUSE THIS RING ROAD
IS ACTUALLY OLDER THAN ALL THE BUILDINGS THAT LINE IT,
WHAT YOU SEE IS VERY "NEO" --
NEO-RENAISSANCE, NEO-GOTHIC, AND NEO-CLASSICAL.
THE CHOICE OF STYLE
SEEMS TO FIT THE BUILDINGS' FUNCTION.
THE AUSTRIAN PARLIAMENT IS NEO-CLASSICAL --
BECAUSE DEMOCRACY CAME FROM ANCIENT GREECE.
THE CITY HALL IS NEO-GOTHIC --
RECALLING THE AGE WHEN LOCAL MERCHANTS
RAN THE GOVERNMENT.
MUSEUMS ARE NEO-RENAISSANCE -- FOR A SPIRIT OF LEARNING.
AND VIENNA'S COURT THEATER IS NEO-BAROQUE --
THE AGE WHEN OPERA AND THEATER FLOURISHED.
FROM THE RINGSTRASSE, AN EFFICIENT SUBWAY SYSTEM
TAKES US FARTHER AFIELD.
LIKE TO THE BEACH, THE DANUBE BEACH.
IN THE 1970s, VIENNA DUG A CANAL
PARALLEL TO THE MIGHTY DANUBE RIVER
CREATING BOTH A FLOOD BARRIER
AND A MUCH-LOVED ISLAND ESCAPE.
THIS SKINNY, 12 MILE LONG ISLAND
PROVIDES A NATURAL WONDERLAND.
ALL ALONG THIS TRAFFIC-FREE, GRASSY PARK,
YOU'LL FIND THE VIENNESE AT PLAY.
FOR THOSE WHO CAN'T AFFORD
THEIR OWN CABIN OR FANCY VACATION,
IT'S AN IDEAL PLACE
FOR A GOOD OLD FASHIONED BARBECUE.
AND THE APPEAL OF THE ICE CREAM CART IS UNIVERSAL.
[ BELL RINGS ]
FOR CENTURIES, VIENNA WAS RULED BY THE HABSBURG FAMILY.
THEY HAD TWO LUXURIOUS PALACES IN VIENNA.
THE SCHONBRUNN PALACE,
WITH ITS EXPANSIVE GROUNDS STANDING AT THE EDGE OF TOWN,
WAS THEIR SUMMER RESIDENCE.
THEIR MAIN PALACE, THE HOFBURG, DOMINATES THE TOWN CENTER.
THIS IMPOSING
AND SPRAWLING COMPLEX
GREW WITH THE FAMILY EMPIRE FROM THE 13th CENTURY
UNTIL JUST BEFORE WORLD WAR I,
WHEN THIS LAST "NEW WING" OPENED.
WHILE THE LAST HABSBURG CHECKED OUT IN 1918,
THE PALACE IS STILL PLENTY BUSY.
IT HAS THE OFFICES OF THE AUSTRIAN PRESIDENT
AND IT'S HOME TO HUNDREDS OF GOVERNMENT WORKERS,
THE SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL, VIENNA BOYS' CHOIR,
AND THE PALACE ITSELF WELCOMES THE PUBLIC.
THE LAVISH IMPERIAL APARTMENTS SEEM DESIGNED
TO GIVE THEIR ROYAL RESIDENTS
GRANDEUR FIT FOR A GOD.
AFTER ALL, IN THE AGE
OF DIVINE MONARCHS,
KINGS AND EMPERORS
LIKE THE HABSBURGS
CLAIMED GOD HIMSELF ORDAINED THEM
TO RULE WITH UNQUESTIONED AUTHORITY.
THE HABSBURG'S WERE ONE OF A HANDFUL OF ROYAL FAMILIES
WHO RULED NEARLY ALL OF EUROPE UNTIL WORLD WAR I.
THE WALLS BETWEEN THE ROOMS
ARE WIDE ENOUGH TO HIDE SERVANTS' CORRIDORS.
THE BIG, ORNATE STOVES, WHICH SERVANTS FED FROM BEHIND,
HEATED THE ROOMS.
THE DECOR IS SPLENDID BAROQUE --
THE PREFERRED STYLE OF DIVINE MONARCHS
AS IT SERVED AS A KIND OF PROPAGANDA
TO SELL THE OLD REGIME NOTION
THAT SOME WERE BORN TO RULE
AND OTHERS WERE BORN TO BE RULED.
WHEN THE EMPEROR AND HIS EXTENDED FAMILY
SAT DOWN TO DINNER, THEY ATE HERE.
THIS IS THE MORE CASUAL TABLE SETTING --
WITH JUST YOUR BASIC SILVERWARE.
FOR MORE FORMAL STATE DINNERS
THEY BROUGHT OUT THE GOLDEN WARE.
EACH DRINK CAME WITH A PROPER GLASS...
AND SPITTOONS ALWAYS GO ON THE LEFT.
SIX CENTURIES OF HABSBURGS RULED FROM HERE
INCLUDING MARIA THERESA IN THE LATE 1700s.
SHE WAS FAMOUS FOR HAVING 16 CHILDREN
AND CLEVERLY MARRYING MANY OF THEM
INTO EUROPE'S VARIOUS ROYAL FAMILIES
IN ORDER TO EXPAND HER EMPIRE.
TODAY'S PALACE IS FURNISHED AS IT WAS IN THE 1800s
FROM THE AGE OF MARIA'S GREAT-GREAT-GRAND SON,
EMPEROR FRANZ JOSEPH.
HE RULED FOR 68 YEARS
AND WAS THE EMBODIMENT OF THE HABSBURG EMPIRE
IN ITS FINAL DECADES.
FRANZ JOSEPH HAD A STERN UPBRINGING
THAT INSTILLED IN HIM A POWERFUL SENSE OF DUTY.
THIS WAS FRANZ JOSEPH IN 1915,
WHEN HE WAS 85 YEARS OLD.
WEARING HIS UNIFORM TO THE VERY END,
HE NEVER UNDERSTOOD WHAT A DINOSAUR
HIS MONARCHY WAS BECOMING,
AND HE DIDN'T THINK IT WAS STRANGE
THAT SO FEW OF HIS SUBJECTS ACTUALLY SPOKE GERMAN.
STILL, EVERY CITIZEN HAD THE RIGHT
TO MEET WITH THE EMPEROR HERE IN THE AUDIENCE ROOM.
FAMOUSLY ENERGETIC AND DEDICATED TO DUTY,
FRANZ JOSEPH STOOD AT THIS TALL TABLE
TO MEET WITH THE COMMONERS.
THEY'D COME TO ASK HIM A FAVOR
OR TELL HIM "THANKS" FOR SOMETHING.
STANDING KEPT THINGS MOVING.
ON THE TABLE,
YOU CAN READ A PARTIAL LIST OF 56 APPOINTMENTS
HE HAD ON JANUARY 3, 1910.
THE EMPEROR PRESIDED OVER CABINET MEETINGS
IN THIS ROOM.
HE RULED THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE,
SO, HUNGARIANS SAT AT THESE MEETINGS.
THE PAINTINGS ON THE WALL
SHOW THE MILITARY DEFEAT
OF A POPULAR HUNGARIAN UPRISING...
NOT TOO SUBTLE.
FRANZ JOSEPH NURTURED AN IMAGE
OF BEING SPARTAN AND A VERY HARD WORKER --
THIS IS HIS FAMOUS NO-FRILLS IRON BED
AND PORTABLE WASHSTAND.
WHILE HE HAD A TYPICAL EMPEROR'S SHARE OF MISTRESSES,
HIS DRESSER WAS ALWAYS WELL-STOCKED
WITH PORTRAITS OF HIS WIFE,
THE EMPRESS ELISABETH... OR SISSI.
ELISABETH --
FRANZ JOSEPH'S MYSTERIOUS, NARCISSISTIC,
AND BEAUTIFUL WIFE, IS IN VOGUE THESE DAYS.
IN THE PALACE, YOU'LL LEARN OF HER FAIRY TALE EXISTENCE --
HER ESCAPES, DIETING MANIA, AND CHOCOLATE BILLS.
SISSI'S HARD-EARNED TINY WAIST
WAS 21 INCHES AROUND AT AGE 50...
AFTER GIVING BIRTH TO 4 CHILDREN.
HER MAIN GOALS IN LIFE
SEEM TO HAVE BEEN PRESERVING HER BEAUTIFUL EMPRESS IMAGE,
MAINTAINING HER BARBIE DOLL FIGURE,
AND TENDING TO HER CASCADING HAIR.
HERE IN HER BEDROOM,
SERVANTS WORKED TWO HOURS A DAY ON SISSI'S FAMOUS HAIR.
SHE'D EXERCISE ON THIS.
HER BATHROOM WAS EQUIPPED WITH A HUGE TUB --
THE FINEST ANYWHERE --
WHICH RESTED ON THE FIRST LINOLEUM FLOOR IN VIENNA,
INSTALLED IN 1888.
IN SPITE OF SEVERE DIETING AND FANATIC EXERCISE,
AGE TOOK ITS TOLL.
AFTER TURNING 30, SHE ALLOWED NO MORE PORTRAITS
AND WAS SEEN IN PUBLIC ONLY BEHIND A GENTLE FAN.
IN 1898, WHILE VISITING GENEVA, IN SWITZERLAND,
EMPRESS ELISABETH WAS ASSASSINATED
BY AN ITALIAN ANARCHIST.
SISSI HAS OFTEN BEEN COMPARED WITH PRINCESS DIANA
BECAUSE OF HER BEAUTY,
HER BITTERSWEET LIFE, AND HER TRAGIC DEATH.
WHEN YOU VISIT VIENNA,
IT'S EASY TO GET CAUGHT UP
IN THE GROWING LEGEND OF EMPRESS ELISABETH.
THE HABSBURGS RULED AS HOLY ROMAN EMPERORS.
WHILE HISTORIANS JOKE THEIR DOMAIN
WAS NEITHER HOLY NOR ROMAN,
THEY DID HAVE SOME FANCY JEWELS.
THE IMPERIAL TREASURY
SHOWS OFF THE BEST JEWELS ON THE CONTINENT.
VISITORS REFLECT ON THE GLITTER OF 20 ROOMS
FILLED WITH THE PRECIOUS PARAPHERNALIA
DESIGNED TO HELP KEEP
ONE ROYAL FAMILY RULING A GOOD PART OF EUROPE.
THIS 500-YEAR-OLD UNICORN HORN,
OR PERHAPS THE TUSK OF A NARWHAL,
WAS CONSIDERED VERY POWERFUL IN THE MIDDLE AGES.
POSSESSED BY THE HABSBURG EMPEROR --
A DIVINE MONARCH --
IT GAVE ITS OWNER THE GRACE OF GOD --
SOMETHING RULERS STILL SEEK TODAY.
THE COLLECTION'S HIGHLIGHT IS THE 10th CENTURY CROWN
OF THE HOLY ROMAN EMPEROR.
THE SYMBOLISM INDICATES THAT THE EMPEROR
WAS BOTH HOLY AND ROMAN.
THE JEWELED ARCH REPRESENTS THE PARADE HELMET
OF ANCIENT ROMAN EMPERORS WHOSE SUCCESSORS
THE HABSBURGS CLAIMED TO BE.
THE CROSS SAYS THE EMPEROR
RULED AS CHRIST'S REPRESENTATIVE ON EARTH.
KING SOLOMON'S PORTRAIT IS OLD TESTAMENT PROOF
THAT KINGS CAN BE WISE AND GOOD.
KING DAVID IS SIMILAR PROOF THAT THEY CAN BE JUST.
THE CROWN'S EIGHT SIDES
REPRESENT THE CELESTIAL CITY OF JERUSALEM'S EIGHT GATES.
THE PRECIOUS STONES ON THE FRONT PANEL
SYMBOLIZE THE 12 APOSTLES.
THE 11th CENTURY IMPERIAL CROSS
PRECEDED THE EMPEROR IN CEREMONIES.
ENCRUSTED WITH JEWELS,
IT CARRIED WHAT WAS BELIEVED
TO BE A SUBSTANTIAL CHUNK OF THE CROSS.
THROUGH THE CENTURIES, THE HOLY ROMAN EMPERORS
ACTUALLY CARRIED THIS INTO BATTLE.
YOU CAN SEE BITS
OF THE SO-CALLED "TRUE CROSS" ANYWHERE,
BUT THIS IS A PRIME PIECE --
WITH AN ACTUAL NAIL HOLE.
ADJACENT TO THE PALACE,
BELOW A CHURCH IS MORE HABSBURG HISTORY.
WHILE THE HABSBURGS HAVE BEEN OUT OF POWER
SINCE THE END OF WORLD WAR I,
THEY MAINTAIN A HOLD ON THE AUSTRIAN SPIRIT --
AS YOU FEEL WHEN YOU VISIT THEIR TOMBS.
BUT VISITING THE IMPERIAL REMAINS
IS NOT AS EASY AS YOU MIGHT IMAGINE.
THESE EARLY ORGAN DONORS --
ABOUT 150 HABSBURGS IN ALL --
LEFT THEIR HEARTS UNDER A CHURCH NEAR THE PALACE,
THEIR ENTRAILS UNDER THE CATHEDRAL,
AND THE REST OF THEIR BODIES HERE
IN THE KAISERGRUFT OR EMPERORS' CRYPT.
THE ORNATE DOUBLE COFFIN OF MARIA THERESA
AND HER HUSBAND, FRANZ I,
IS FESTOONED WITH HABSBURG REGALIA.
AND SURROUNDED BY THE TOMBS OF THEIR MANY CHILDREN.
THE ROYAL TOMBS ARE AN EVOCATIVE MIXTURE
OF ART AND SYMBOLS OF THAT MONARCH'S REIGN.
HOW THEY WANTED TO BE REMEMBERED
IS REFLECTED IN THE TOMBS THEY OFTEN HELPED DESIGN.
FRANZ JOSEPH'S
IS AN APPROPRIATELY AUSTERE MILITARY TOMB.
HIS WIFE, EMPRESS ELISABETH OR SISSI,
ALWAYS SEEMS TO GET THE MOST FLOWERS.
WHILE IT'S FUN TO CHASE DOWN ALL THESE ROYAL BODY PARTS,
REMEMBER THAT THE REAL LEGACY OF THE HABSBURGS
IS THE MAGNIFICENCE OF THEIR CITY.
STEP OUTSIDE. LOOK UP.
APPRECIATE THE ORNATE SKYLINE
OF VIENNA.
THE HOFBURG PALACE OFFERS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE.
THE HOT AND MUGGY BUTTERFLY ZONE
IS A TROPICAL WONDERLAND ANY TIME OF YEAR.
IN THIS COMMUNITY OF BUTTERFLIES,
THE TRAYS SERVING UP ROTTING SLICES OF FRUIT
ARE THE TAVERN.
THIS GANG'S LICKING THE FERMENTED BANANA JUICE
AS IT BEADS,
AND THEN JUST HANGS OUT THERE
IN A STUPOR...
OR FLIES IN ANYTHING
BUT A STRAIGHT LINE.
VIENNA'S NASCH MARKET IS NEARBY.
ABOUT A HUNDRED YEARS AGO,
THE CITY DECIDED TO COVER UP ITS VIENNA RIVER.
THE LONG, NARROW SQUARE THEY CREATED
WAS FILLED WITH A LIVELY PRODUCE MARKET
THAT STILL BUSTLES ALMOST DAILY.
TO THE VIENNESE, THIS IS WHERE THE BALKANS BEGAN.
IN OTHER WORDS, FOR GENERATIONS,
THIS HAS BEEN THE PLACE
FOR FAR AWAY FOOD.
THE MARKET FEATURES THE FRESHEST OF PRODUCE
AND GOURMET GOODIES.
YOU'LL FIND EVERYTHING
FROM TASTY OLIVES AND FRESH BAKLAVA --
MM, THANK YOU.
TO SAUERKRAUT EVANGELISTS.
THIS IS FOUR DAYS OLD.
FOUR DAYS OLD? SO ALREADY THIS IS "SOUR" KRAUT?
YES, IT IS.
KRAUT IS GERMAN FOR "CABBAGE?"
YES.
IS THIS HEALTHY?
IT'S THE ABSOLUTE VITAMIN BOMB.
IT CONTAINS, I THINK FIVE VITAMINS.
AND THE GOURMET VINEGAR STALL IS EVEN MORE INTERACTIVE.
SO THIS IS ELDERBERRY?
ELDERBERRY, BALSAMIC VINEGAR.
CAN I SMELL FIRST?
YES.
MM, THAT'S MORE POWERFUL, IT'S MORE SWEET.
I COULD BECOME A CONNOISSEUR OF A VINEGAR.
MM, THAT'S SCHMECKT ZEHR GUT.
DANKE SCHOEN.
DANKE SCHOEN. AUF WEIDERSEHN.
AUF WEIDERSEHN. WAS NICE MEETING YOU, BYE-BYE.
EXPERIENCING THE VIENNA OPERA
IS HIGH ON THE LIST OF MANY VISITORS.
BUT WE'RE HERE IN JULY, AND NOTHING'S SCHEDULED.
THE CITY'S VENERABLE MUSICAL INSTITUTIONS --
LIKE THE OPERA, THE VIENNA BOYS CHOIR,
AND THE PHILHARMONIC --
MOSTLY ON VACATION IN JULY AND AUGUST.
BUT, TAKING ADVANTAGE
OF LOCAL ENTERTAINMENT LISTINGS,
YOU'LL FIND THE CITY STILL HUMS
WITH GREAT CLASSICAL MUSIC YEAR-ROUND.
MUSIC IN VIENNA'S PARKS ENJOYS A LONG TRADITION.
A CENTURY AGO, JOHANN STRAUSS
WAS THE TOAST OF VIENNA'S HIGH SOCIETY.
IT WAS HERE, IN VIENNA'S CITY PARK,
IN THE KURSALON,
WHERE THE "WALTZ KING" HIMSELF
DIRECTED WILDLY POPULAR CONCERTS IN THE LATE 1800s.
AND THE TRADITION CONTINUES
TO THE DELIGHT OF MUSIC LOVERS
FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
[ "THE BLUE DANUBE" PLAYS ]
WHETHER YOU LIKE CLASSICAL MUSIC, IMPERIAL GRANDEUR,
OR JUST A GOOD APPLE STRUDEL, YOU'LL LOVE VIENNA.
THANKS, FOR JOINING US. I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELING.
AUF WEIDERSEHN.