Does everyone need to use a moisturizer?

每個人都需要使用保溼霜嗎？

No.

不知道

(upbeat music)

(歡快的音樂)

Hey guys, it's Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank,

嘿，夥計們，這是保羅-傑羅德-弗蘭克博士。

cosmetic dermatologist here in New York City.

美容皮膚科醫生在紐約市。

And today, we're gonna take a deep dive

今天，我們要深入研究一下

into the comment section of the "Go to Bed with Me" series.

進入 "和我上床 "系列的評論區。

(upbeat music)

(歡快的音樂)

One of the most important steps in your nighttime

夜間最重要的步驟之一。

skincare routine is to remove any residue,

護膚程序是去除任何殘留物。

toxins or makeup on the skin.

皮膚上的毒素或化妝品。

You spend a lot time asleep hopefully,

你花了很多時間睡覺希望。

and you wanna make sure the skin could breathe

你想確保皮膚可以呼吸。

with no residual residue.

無殘餘物的情況下。

I think the choice of cleansers really is very personal,

我覺得洗面乳的選擇真的是非常個人化。

like any other aspect of skincare.

就像其他方面的護膚品一樣。

I think you have to find out

我想你必須找出

and determine whether you have oily skin,

並確定自己是否為油性皮膚。

dry skin, mixed skin,

乾性皮膚、混合性皮膚。

and then you can really choice appropriately.

然後你就可以真正適當地選擇。

Obviously, creamier, milkier type of cleansers

很明顯，乳霜型、牛奶型的洗面乳。

are better for dry skin.

是比較適合乾性皮膚的。

And you may want foaming cleansers or gel cleansers

而且你可能需要保麗龍潔面乳或凝膠潔面乳。

for oily skin.

適合油性皮膚。

Hmm, Gunther the Penguin.

嗯，企鵝岡瑟。

"Oh my god, yes.

"哦，我的天，是的。

"She washed her hands before going into skincare.

"她洗了手才去護膚。

"Literally no celebrity has done this in their videos,

"從字面上看，沒有一個名人在視頻中這樣做。

"but this step is crucial because imagine

"但這一步是至關重要的，因為想象

"using those dirty hands."

"用那些骯髒的手。"

Well I'd like to think that people are gonna clean

好吧，我想，人們是要去清理。

their hands before they wash their face.

在洗臉之前，他們的手。

It's usually kind of part of the whole process.

這通常是整個過程中的一種。

But yes, clean hands come before clean face.

不過是的，淨手先淨面。

Post Malone?

後馬龍？

Post Malone's on this?

Post Malone's on this?

All right.

好吧，我知道了

"That towel rag is making me cringe.

"那塊毛巾抹布讓我感到噁心。

"Don't wipe it."

"別擦了。"

That's okay, as long as it's a soft towel and it's clean.

沒關係，只要是軟毛巾，而且是乾淨的。

I mean, I wouldn't scrub your face with it,

我的意思是，我不會用它擦洗你的臉。

but it's okay.

但它是好的。

It's a basic part of a bathroom accoutrement,

這是浴室裝飾品的基本部分。

so use it wisely.

所以要明智地使用它。

And this next comment, "I don't need her skincare routine,

而接下來這句話，"我不需要她的日常護膚品。

"I need her genes."

"我需要她的基因。"

Well that may be true,

嗯，這可能是真的。

but a dermatologist can't give you that.

但皮膚科醫生不能給你。

But you do need a skincare routine that is right for you.

但你確實需要一個適合自己的護膚程序。

All people are not created equal.

所有的人都不是生而平等的。

And not everyone is born with great skin.

而且不是每個人都是天生的好皮膚。

Skincare routine and the quality of one's skin at birth

日常護膚與人出生時的皮膚品質有關

is like any issue of nature versus nurture.

就像任何一個自然與養成的問題一樣。

It's really half and half.

真的是一半一半。

You deal with the things that you were born with,

你要處理好與生俱來的事情。

and the rest is up to how you treat your skin.

剩下的就看你如何對待你的皮膚了。

When discussing diet to patients,

在與患者討論飲食時。

particularly with things like acne

痘痘

or other chronic skin conditions,

或其他慢性皮膚病。

I always say that diet and nutrition,

我常說，飲食和營養。

they certainly affect the skin,

它們肯定會影響皮膚。

but they're not really the cause of the malady.

但他們並不是真正的病因。

They contribute to it.

他們為之做出了貢獻。

So if you have a problem,

所以如果你有問題。

you may wanna consider nutritional changes.

你可能要考慮改變營養狀況。

But like, stopping to eat strawberries

但是，就像，停下來吃草莓。

or eating excessive amounts of meat,

或吃過量的肉。

they're not really gonna cause your skin concern.

他們不是真的要去導致你的皮膚問題。

So ultimately, if you're having problems

所以最終，如果你有問題

finding something that works for you,

找到適合自己的東西。

that's when you see a dermatologist.

那是當你看到一個皮膚科醫生。

TheCratsky

克拉茨基

"I thought with cleansing oil,

"我以為用潔面油。

"you gently massage it onto dry skin.

"你輕輕地把它按摩到乾燥的皮膚上，

"Then wet hands and create an emulsion on the oily skin.

"然後打溼雙手，在油性皮膚上製作乳液。

"Are you supposed to wipe off the oil before emulsifying?"

"乳化前是不是要把油擦掉？"

This a very complicated answer.

這是一個非常複雜的答案。

It doesn't have to be that scientific

不一定要那麼科學

when you're putting on a cleansing oil.

當你在塗抹潔面油的時候。

Honestly, I don't think it's gonna make

老實說，我不認為這是要去使

that much a difference in the end result of cleansing,

在清潔的最終結果上有那麼多的不同。

whether you put cleansing oil on dry or wet skin.

無論你把潔面油塗在乾性或溼性皮膚上。

Ah, 20 02.

啊，202。

"Micellar water is not a toner!"

"微晶水不是爽身粉！"

Actually, it could be a little bit of a toner.

其實，這可能是一點調料。

Micellar water is kind of a fad that's come from Europe,

微球水算是一種時尚，是從歐洲傳過來的。

particularly from the French.

特別是來自法國人的。

And it's a emulsification of oil beads

而且是油珠的乳化液

that are found in a soft type of water.

屬於軟水類型的。

Often, this is not washed off the face

往往是洗不掉面子的。

and is applied with something like a cotton swab.

並用棉籤等東西塗抹。

If someone's gonna use micellar water,

如果有人要用硅藻水，

I certainly recommend it for the morning cleanse.

晨間清潔我當然推薦。

I really don't think it's potent enough

我真的覺得它的威力還不夠大

to remove makeup at the end of the day.

以在一天結束時卸妝。

I think people are still trying to figure out

我想人們還在試圖找出

exactly what toners do.

正是爽膚水的作用。

But most commonly, they're used after the cleansing step

但最常見的是，它們是在清潔步驟之後使用的

to remove additional grime or makeup on the face.

以去除臉上額外的汙垢或化妝品。

They are not necessary for everyone.

它們不是每個人都需要的。

But for that person that feels like they need

但對於那個覺得自己需要

that extra step of cleansing to get rid of residue,

額外的清潔步驟，以消除殘留物。

I think toners can be good

我覺得爽身粉也可以是好東西

before serums or other moisturizers.

在使用精華液或其他保溼產品之前。

(upbeat music)

(歡快的音樂)

I don't think everyone needs to have a serum

我覺得不是每個人都需要用精華液的。

in their skincare routine.

在他們的護膚程序中。

It really depends if there's something specific

這真的要看是否有什麼特別的東西

that they wanna target,

他們想要的目標。

whether it be dark spots or wrinkles or skin tightening.

不管是黑斑還是皺紋還是緊膚。

An essence is kind of a combination

精華是一種組合

between a serum and a toner.

介於精華液和爽膚水之間。

It tends to be even more lightweight,

往往更加輕便。

and can have some active ingredients

並可以有一些活性成分

and hydration as almost like a finishing product

補水幾乎就像一個完成品

of your skincare regimen.

的護膚方法。

All right, Michelle D.

好吧，米歇爾D.

"She kept saying moisturizer at the end there,

"她在那最後一直說保溼劑。

"but the last product she used was a serum."

"但她最後使用的產品是精華液"

The little funny face there.

那裡的小滑稽臉。

"The healing ointment she used,

"她用的療傷藥膏。

"she only used on her eyes and mouth.

"她只用在眼睛和嘴上。

"Is a serum enough?"

"血清夠嗎？"

And this really depends.

而這真的要看情況。

Serums were originally created

血清液最初是這樣產生的

as a form of an active ingredient

作為一種活性成分

when you're actually trying to treat something.

當你真正想治療什麼的時候。

Using a serum doesn't necessitate using a moisturizer

使用精華液不一定要用保溼霜。

after it if that serum has humectants in it

如果該血清中含有保溼劑，則在它之後。

that add additional moisturizer.

可增加額外的保溼效果。

In our MDNA skincare line that we do with Madonna,

在我們和麥當娜一起做的MDNA護膚系列中。

we have hyaluronic acid as a great hydrating aspect

我們有玻尿酸作為一個很好的補水方面。

in all of our serums.

在我們所有的精華液中。

Katuriaan.

卡圖裡安。

"Just a PSA, charcoal in face masks, cleansers

"只是個PSA，面膜、洗面乳中的木炭。

"doesn't actually do anything.

"實際上並沒有做什麼。

"It's a marketing gimmick like collagen serums."

"這是一個營銷的噱頭，就像膠原蛋白精華液一樣。"

Well collagen serums is one thing,

那麼膠原蛋白精華液是一回事。

but there's no question in my mind

但毫無疑問

that charcoal in face masks and cleansers

炭在面膜和洗面乳中的作用。

can be beneficial.

可以是有益的。

They are not detoxifying in the way

它們並沒有排毒的方式

that people are trying to market charcoal

炭的銷售

in ingestible products,

攝取性產品中。

but there's no question that charcoal

但毫無疑問的是，木炭

can have absorptive abilities on removing grit

具有吸附能力，可以去除砂粒。

and debris on the skin.

和皮膚上的碎屑。

I think face masks, particularly sheet masks

我覺得面膜，尤其是片狀面膜。

are kind of all the rage right now.

是一種所有的憤怒，現在。

There's unnecessary controversy.

有不必要的爭議。

The fact of the matter is if it serves you

事實是，如果它為你服務

and you like it, then use it.

而你喜歡它，那就用它。

It doesn't have to be for everybody.

它不一定適合所有人。

Give it a shot and see what you get.

給它一個機會，看看你會得到什麼。

Alfredo lopez.

阿爾弗雷多・洛佩茲。

"Anti-agjing," with a J, not an I,

"反八經"，有一個J，不是I。

"means sunblock, vitamin C serum and no foam to cleanse."

"指的是防晒霜，維生素C精華液和沒有保麗龍的清潔。"

I think alfredo has got it right

我覺得阿福多說得很對

because really, anti-aging

因為真的，抗衰老

is about protection, using antioxidants.

是關於保護，使用抗氧化劑。

Cleaning the face, I'm not sure with a foam or not.

清潔面部，我不知道用不用保麗龍。

You know, anti-aging can be very simple.

你知道，抗衰老可以很簡單。

And it's about taking care of your skin,

而且要注意保養自己的皮膚。

protecting it and treating what's available

守土有責，守土盡責

to make it better.

以使其更好。

You know all dermatologists are gonna say

你知道所有的皮膚科醫生都會說：

the best anti-aging secret is sunscreen.

最好的抗衰老祕訣就是防晒。

If you actually protect yourself,

如果你真的保護自己。

the damage will never come about in the first place.

損害永遠不會發生在第一時間。

(upbeat music)

(歡快的音樂)

So what are some of the common active ingredients?

那麼常見的有效成分有哪些呢？

Well the oldest and classic is retinol

那麼最老最經典的就是視黃醇了。

which is a derivative of retin-A.

它是視黃素-A的衍生物。

We have the alpha and beta hydroxy acids.

我們有α和β羥基酸。

And over time, we're developing newer products

而且隨著時間的推移，我們正在開發更新的產品。

that have peptides in it with the building blocks

含有多肽的構築物。

of collagen, epidermal growth factors,

的膠原蛋白、表皮生長因子。

and a lot of other newer type of products

和很多其他新型產品。

that basically improve the regenerative capacity

基本上提高了再生能力

of the skin.

的皮膚。

Maddy.

麥蒂

"Everyone getting into skincare,

"大家都在搞護膚品。

"do not use multiple active ingredients at a time.

"不要一次使用多種有效成分。

"I damaged my skin doing so.

"我這樣做損害了我的皮膚。

"My whole face was covered in big, dry patches

"我的整張臉都佈滿了大塊大塊的乾涸的斑點

"and it would never stay hydrated

"而且它永遠不會保持水分

"and I don't even have a dry skin type.

"我甚至沒有一個乾性皮膚的類型。

"You can always use one active,

"你總可以用一個主動。

"like a vitamin C in the morning,

"就像早上的維他命C一樣。

"and then a serum or something

"然後是血清什麼的

"with an active ingredient at night"

"晚上有活性成分"

This person is practically a dermatologist

這個人簡直就是個皮膚科醫生

and actually has a very good point.

而且其實說的很有道理。

Because you really have to be cautious

因為你真的要小心翼翼

about the number of actives you're using on the skin.

關於你在皮膚上使用的活性物質的數量。

First of all, they can counteract each other.

首先，它們可以相互抵消。

And they can also, cumulatively,

而且他們還可以，累計。

cause a lot of irritation and damage.

造成很大的刺激和傷害。

For example, retinol and vitamin C don't mix.

例如，視黃醇和維生素C不能混用。

Vitamin C and beta hydroxy acids

維生素C和β羥基酸

could actually counteract each other.

其實可以相互抵消。

So stick with one active serum for your skincare regimen.

所以堅持用一種活性精華液來做護膚品。

Taylor Ryan.

泰勒-瑞恩

"It's unnecessary to use vitamin C twice a day

"一天用兩次維生素C是沒有必要的

"because your skin can only absorb

"因為你的皮膚只能吸收

"so much vitamin C every 24 hours.

"每24小時就有這麼多維生素C。

"You're essentially wasting product,

"你基本上是在浪費產品。

"especially if you are using Drunk Elephant vitamin C.

"尤其是當你使用醉象維生素C的時候。

"Their formulation is potent enough

"他們的配方是足夠強大的

"that it stays in your skin for up to 72 hours

"它能在皮膚上停留72小時

"after each application.

"每次申請後，

"It also works more efficiently

"它的工作效率也更高

"to protect your skin if you use it in your morning routine

"如果你在早晨的例行工作中使用它，就可以保護你的皮膚。

"instead of at night, but that you just don't have to do it,

"而不是在晚上，但你只是沒有做到這一點。

"just a tip."

"只是一個提示。"

Most importantly, I don't think it's necessary

最重要的是，我認為沒有必要。

to use vitamin C more than once a day

每天使用維生素C一次以上。

because it can be potentially irritating.

因為它可能會有潛在的刺激性。

Very products like vitamin C

非常產品，如維生素C

which can be a potential irritant,

這可能是一種潛在的刺激性物質。

I usually tell people to use these products at night.

我通常會告訴大家在晚上使用這些產品。

So if you do have any irritation, it could be gone

所以，如果你真的有任何刺激，它可能會消失。

by morning and you'll use a moisturizer

到了早上，你會使用保溼霜。

to help counteract that.

以幫助抵消這一點。

Rocio Robledo.

Rocio Robledo.

"I tried using toothpaste as a spot treatment in the past,

"以前我試過用牙膏治斑。

"but that burned the (bleeps) out of my skin."

"但那把我的皮膚都燒壞了"

That's an interesting comment.

這是一個有趣的評論。

Toothpaste probably is not the best treatment for acne.

牙膏可能不是治療痤瘡的最佳方法。

I think it does have kind of like an acidic, drying effect

我認為它確實有一種像酸性的，乾燥的效果。

which can be useful, but I think we have more modern

這可能是有用的，但我認為我們有更現代的

products out on the market now than toothpaste.

現在市場上的產品比牙膏。

In general, when we give an acne regimen to patients,

一般來說，當我們給患者使用痤瘡治療方法時。

we don't want them to necessarily

我們不希望他們一定

put it on the acne spots themselves

敷在痘痘上

because once a pimple comes out,

因為一旦有痘痘出來。

it has to go through its process.

它必須經過它的過程。

But there are specific ingredients like resorcinol

但也有一些特殊的成分，如間苯二酚。

and salicylic acid that you can use for spot treatment.

和水楊酸，你可以用來治療斑點。

(upbeat music)

(歡快的音樂)

Every function of the skin

皮膚的每個功能

depends on a water to oil balance,

取決於水油平衡。

and that's basically what moisturizers are providing.

而這基本上就是保溼劑的作用。

Limau Gajah.

Limau Gajah。

"Whoever said that there is no rule for eye cream,

"誰說眼霜沒有規矩不成方圓。

"the person is wrong.

"這個人是錯的。

"I used to slather on a lot of eye cream in my younger days,

"我年輕的時候經常塗抹眼霜。

"but I can no longer do so because I have become

"但我不能再這樣做了，因為我已經變得

"very prone to getting chalazion."

"很容易得霰粒腫"