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  • Hi, I'm Fashion Historian Amber Butchart and welcome to Kenwood which is cared

    嗨,我是時尚歷史學家Amber Butchart

  • for by English Heritage. I'm standing inside an incredible Georgian house in

    歡迎來到由英格蘭遺產管理的 肯伍德府(Kenwood House)

  • North London which was once home to William Murray 1st Earl of Mansfield

    這位處北倫敦、宏偉的喬治王時代風格大宅

  • and his aristocratic companions in the 1700s. Today we're going to be looking at

    在1700年代這裡曾經是第一代曼斯菲爾德伯爵 威廉·穆雷(William Murray)和他的親屬的住所

  • the late 18th century and we're going to show you how to recreate an authentic

    今天我們會探索18世紀末的生活和 如何重現正宗的喬治王時代妝容

  • Georgian look. We'll be exploring not only what the cosmetics can reveal about

    我們不單會窺探所用到的化妝品 可以訴說出那時候的英國的模樣

  • England during this period but also why bigger was better for the hairstyles of

    還會看看喬治王時代最為人津津樂道的巨型髮型

  • the Georgians. Plus we've got an extra special treat for you. We're going to be

    今天還會附贈一個特別驚喜

  • recreating two Georgian looks and talking about how both women and men

    我們將會重現兩款喬治王時代妝容

  • used makeup to make an impression in Georgian society. I am so excited to see this!

    和探討女士和男士如何以化妝融入 喬治王時代的交際圈

  • Hi Rebecca

    實在是太讓人興奮了!

  • Hello Amber, welcome to the Georgian era

    嗨Rebecca!

  • Thank you

    妳好Amber,歡迎來到喬治王時代

  • This is Ashleigh, our model

    多謝

  • Hi Ashleigh

    這位是我們的模特兒Ashleigh

  • Take a great look at her because she's

    嗨Ashleigh

  • going to be unrecognisable very soon.

    現在好好認住她這張臉 因為很快她就會徹底地改頭換面

  • I can not wait. So today we're focusing on

    我急不及待了 那麼今天我們的重點是喬治王時代

  • the Georgian era, this is a period of huge political and social upheaval huge change

    這時候政局和社會經歷動盪和全面變革

  • Now technically it lasts from 1714 to 1837 but we're going to be focusing

    更準確而言這個變革發生在1714至1837年

  • on just two decades, the 1770s and 1780s when George III was on the throne

    但我們這次挑選了1770年代至1780年代 正當喬治三世在位的時候

  • So Rebecca what are the key elements from the look from this era?

    所以呢Rebecca 這個年代的妝容有什麼特徵呢?

  • Well the look changed a little bit throughout the centuries but we're going to focus on doing

    喬治王時代的美容風格在百年間經歷過些轉變

  • pale porcelain skin. dark black eyebrows and flushed rosy cheeks - it's going to be

    但我們要重現的是那陶瓷般的雪白肌膚、 深黑眼眉和粉紅腮紅

  • very elegant very beautiful

    這將會是非常優雅和美麗

  • Fantastic! Ican't wait let's get started

    太美了!那讓我們立刻開始好嗎

  • Let's do it

    開動吧

  • So step number one is, just like today, skin prep, and I've done loads of

    好第一步,就像今天的護膚

  • research on skin care. Georgian ladies used creams, they used waters, they used

    我做了許多關於護膚的研究 喬治時代女士會用上奶油、清水和各種潔面乳

  • all sorts of lotions. I found a great recipe that involves the juice of

    我找到一個很棒的配方是...使用草莓汁

  • strawberries - wow! - onto skin

    哇噢! 塗在面上

  • Apparently you would put it on at night,

    很明顯這個會在夜晚使用

  • you'd leave it on your skin overnight and then

    然後就如此敷著草莓汁就寢

  • you wash it off with water with chervil in it, which is a form of parsley

    到早上起床後就以浸著車窩草(chervil)的清水洗面 這葉子是荷蘭芹香草的一種

  • What this does, apparently, is to get rid of freckles and also to clear a tanned skin

    這東西的功效是去斑和清理曬黑了的表皮

  • It's interesting you say that this was to get rid of freckles. This is a period

    妳說道去斑就牽涉到一個很有趣的歷史

  • where we see the onset of the Industrial Revolution which you know really brings

    這個時代正將會踏入工業革命

  • in huge changes throughout society. But the period we're in at the moment having

    而它對整個社會產生了巨大轉變

  • tan skin or having freckles is really associated with outdoor agricultural

    但在這之前雀斑和深色皮膚很容易令人聯想到 出外務農的體力活

  • work. It essentially is a sign that you don't have much money and so this is why

    這意味著你並不富裕

  • people are trying to avoid it so much

    因此大眾都盡力避免雀斑和深色皮膚

  • And the look that we're doing today is

    而我們今天所做的妝容是為貴族淑女

  • for an aristocratic lady, so she wouldn't have had freckles, she wouldn't have had

    所以她不應該有雀斑

  • a tan so we're going to get rid of those

    她不會有古銅色肌膚 而我們就是要消除這些

  • So we're going to get rid of those freckles with our chervil water and strawberry face cream

    所以我們以車窩水和草莓面乳去斑

  • Fantastic. Now the process of sort of getting dressed and getting

    真好呢。現在這個輔料和化妝的步驟

  • ready the whole toilette was quite elaborate for women at this time and

    對當時的女性來說都是頗精巧縝密

  • could be quite performative in some ways as well. There are some accounts of women

    甚至可以說是有些為了滿足表演欲

  • getting ready while having breakfast or even while entertaining other women you

    有些歷史文獻記載當時的女士會在吃早餐時化妝 或者是與其他女士交際時在她們面前化妝

  • could use it as a sort of socialising time for chatting and catching up on

    以帶起聊天話題讓大家交流起來

  • gossip and things like that as well

    然後就是各類八卦閒話

  • So our next step is to start creating the

    下一步就是之前已經提及的 我們要塑造一個貴族淑女的形象

  • look and we've already said that we are going to be creating a look for

    而且是一位出身名門望族的女士正準備與其他人交際

  • aristocratic ladies, and this one is for an affluent lady who's going out

    為了重現那個白陶瓷面色我們會用到 「有點正宗」的喬治時代粉底配方

  • socialising. To achieve this pale, porcelain look I'm using an authentic-ish Georgian

    我說有點正宗是因為部分原料是當今時代不能用的

  • recipe for a white face base. Now I say authentic-ish because there are some

    例如鉛粉(ceruse)即是鉛白顏料

  • ingredients that I can't get hold of today like ceruse which, is white led

    所以這玩兒在喬治時代依然有被應用?

  • So this is still being used at this time in the Georgian era? The ceruse which is

    我們知道鉛粉是毒性很強和高腐蝕性的物料

  • very poisonous, corrosive substance?

    對,例如名妓Kitty Fisher

  • Yep. But women like Kitty Fisher and the

    和名門Waldegrave三姐妹都堅持使用鉛粉美白肌膚

  • Waldegrave sisters still insisted on wearing this white lead, white makeup

    所以重申一次,我們今天不是用鉛吧?

  • So you're not using that today, just to clarify?

    不,我們今天絕對沒有用鉛

  • No, we're definitely not using that today

    我現在用的是混合甜杏仁油和二氧化鈦顏料

  • This is a combination of sweet almond oil and titanium dioxide pigment

    這些是今天化妝品都採用的原料 我這裡還加了點蜂蠟

  • which is used in makeup today and also a little bit of bees wax

    妳會如何以喬治時代的方式描畫那黑眼眉呢?

  • And how are you going to create the dark brows that we so associate with this era?

    很有趣地我會用到一顆丁香來畫眼眉

  • Well interestingly enough, I'm going to be using a clove to coat the eyebrows

    妳來聞聞看

  • Have a smell

    哇噢!

  • Oh wow!

    很有風味吧 妳要稍稍對丁香的一側燒至熏黑

  • They smell amazing. You need to burn the end of a clove

    這是聖誕節的氣味呢!

  • It smells like Christmas!

    對啊!然後就可以用來畫眉

  • I know! And then you can draw them on and they

    這是個非常見效的畫眉筆

  • make really quite surprisingly effective eyebrow pencils

    想出這個的人是天才! 的確

  • Who'd have thought it!

    但那個時代還有些傳言說有人會用上老鼠毛

  • I know! But there were other rumors around at that time that people were using things like

    來製作那粗和濃密的眉毛

  • mouse fur to create those thick, lush eyebrows

    其實有許多關於將老鼠毛用在眼眉的來源 都是諷刺文學

  • Well a lot of the sources that

    諸如強納森·史威夫特(Johnathan Swift) 就在諷刺刊物中寫過老鼠毛眉毛的事

  • talk about mouse fur being used for eyebrows are satirical sources so people

    所以我們根本無法查證那玩兒是不是真的 還是只是為了惡搞

  • like Jonathan Swift wrote about it, there are a few prints as well, satirical prints

    這是個諷刺文學開花的黃金年代

  • that talk about mouse fur eyebrows which is why we're not really

    大眾開始借助印刷的普及而發揮無盡創意

  • sure if it was actually used or if it's just something that people joked about

    例如詹姆斯·吉爾雷(Gillray)和喬治·克魯克香克 (Cruikshank)都是19世紀的具代表性諷刺文學家

  • We're beginning to enter a real golden age of satire at this time. People start

    還有一對諷刺文學夫妻檔Matthew和Mary Darly 留下了許多精彩的諷刺時事漫畫

  • to flourish in the new print culture like Gillray and Cruikshank especially

    他們有很多作品是惡搞喬治時代髮型如何浮誇造作

  • as we move into the 19th century as well. Around this period there a couple called

    所以時尚潮流是一個很容易被盯上的惡搞對象

  • Matthew and Mary Darly who created amazing satirical prints. A lot of them

    眉毛看來很美呢 對啊,這顏色不錯吧?

  • really focused on hair and how elaborate Georgian hair could become. So fashion

    真的很好,太完美了

  • was a real target for satirists at this time. The eyebrows are looking fantastic

    那是時候加一點臉色 而我會用上...現代的安全替代品

  • I know, isn't it a great colour?

    因為那個時代流行使用的朱紅顏料含汞(水銀)

  • It's really good, it's perfect

    汞也是一種有毒物質

  • Now it's time to add some color to this face and I'm going to use a modern, safe

    而那個時代的女性卻不停地用來當胭脂塗在臉上

  • alternative to a product called vermilion, which is actually red mercury

    我很愛這效果,很忠於歷史

  • Again it's another really toxic ingredient that women were constantly

    很艷麗呢,我最愛!

  • using on their cheeks to get this bright, rosy flush

    這形象真的很像我們在法國畫像中看到的

  • I love this it looks so incredible, it looks so authentic

    特別是末代王后瑪麗·安東妮(Marie Antoinette) 在同年代出產的肖像畫

  • It's so gorgeous, I love it!

    她的形象正正是英格蘭女士熱衷模仿的

  • This is a look that we're really used to

    我們在這個年代的時尚潮流可以看到

  • seeing on French portraits especially portraits of Marie Antoinette for

    英格蘭和法國的時尚差異

  • example from this time. And it was a look for that reason that many women in England

    這也反映到同期兩國之間的權力結構的差別

  • really wanted to emulate. We see this with fashions throughout this era

    在法國權力都是集中在一個中央朝廷

  • as well. There were some differences between English and French fashions

    凡爾賽正是上演著權力與財富戲劇的華麗舞台

  • And it also reflected the differences in the sort of structure of power in each of the

    相對來說英格蘭的權力就要分散得多

  • countries. In France you have this very court-centric power culture where

    各地貴族要費心管理自己的地盤

  • Versailles is the absolute center and its this kind of spectacular

    所以他們會花更多時間到戶外散步,更加好動

  • theater of power and wealth. In England it's a bit more sort of geographically

    這個習慣也反映到貴族男士的衣著上

  • diverse and you have the managing of the country estate being a really important

    他們的衣裳物料多採用羊毛 而不是法國貴族愛用的絲綢

  • facet of aristocratic life. So things like walking, like taking the air, being a

    所以雖然造型潮流是非常時尚

  • bit more active for a lot more important this is something we see especially in

    但同時媚外也是有一點爭議的行為

  • menswear where there's a bit more of a focus on wool rather than French silks

    德文郡公爵夫人佐治安娜(Georgiana)的母親 就曾經在信中責備她道:

  • So this is certainly a really fashionable look but it's also something

    「如果妳告訴我妳已經上夠胭脂的話 我是如何的欣慰」

  • that's slightly seen as improper sometimes as well as sort of very, very French

    我很喜歡這句話

  • Georgiana, the Duchess of Devonshire, her

    我見過一副很美麗的肖像畫中

  • mother wrote to her in opprobrium at one point and said 'how glad I should be if

    一班淑女的耳垂也上了點胭脂 (畫像:《Waldegrave三淑女》)

  • you could tell me you had quite done with rouge'

    而口紅呢我用的是正宗的產品

  • I love that quote

    但再混合一點蜂蠟令質感更像唇膏

  • And there was a really lovely portrait that I've seen where the ladies in the portrait

    化妝來到最後一步就是一個喬治時代的終極點綴 那就是美人痣

  • have coloured their earlobes in with a tiny bit of rouge

    不過其實我們有點犯了規 因為美人痣在更早時期已經非常流行

  • For our lip colour I'm using exactly the same product, but this time it's mixed with beeswax to make it

    但我就是無法抗拒

  • more like a lipstick texture

    這聽起來很有趣呢 那麼這些假黑痣是用什麼做的?

  • Let's finish this makeup off with the ultimate Georgian accessory, which is the

    它們的材料可以是絲綢 你也可以用絲絨自製

  • face patch. Now we're cheating slightly because face patches were actually more

    又或者是纖薄的西班牙皮革

  • in fashion a little bit earlier than the time that we're focusing on, but I couldn't resit it

    你可以找到不同形狀的假黑痣

  • Well this sounds fantastic. What were they made of, these patches?

    這些黑痣也有好幾個作用對吧

  • So they could be made from silk, you could make them from velvet or sometimes you

    首先是令面色看起來更白 因為貼在白臉上會產生對比

  • could make them from fine Spanish leather. They came in a range of

    而且美人痣並不是過氣的審美主義

  • different shapes

    可以參考瑪麗蓮·夢露的美人痣

  • Now these patches served a number of

    至今我們都依然會認為這種黑痣象徵美

  • purposes didn't they. They firstly serve to highlight the whiteness of the skin

    但或者更重要的是假痣可以用來處理一些美顏大敵

  • next to the, you know, dark patch itself and this isn't even an old idea if we

    例如天花痘的疤痕或其他斑紋等 通通都可以用假痣貼在上面就可以隱藏

  • think of someone like Marilyn Monroe for example and her beauty spot. This is

    我喜歡這方法!

  • still something that we associate with beauty to this day really. But also they

    真的很方便呢! 另外按美人痣的位置也可以帶出不同的信息

  • could hide a multitude of sins: pox marks, scars, moles any kind of

    我們從歷史文獻可以得知它們的意義

  • blemish that you didn't want to have on your face you could hide with a patch

    那些人認為不同位置的美人痣代表了不同的意思

  • I love that idea!

    那麼我在這個位置貼的美人痣...是什麼意思呢?

  • It's just absolutely so handy! There are also a number of secret languages of

    如果是妳的嘴角

  • patches that we can read about in different accounts from this time as well

    那麼以我所閱讀過的文獻就認為是

  • People basically said that wherever you wore it on your face meant

    「嬌媚」或「接吻」,都是些愛情信息

  • something different

    然後我在這裡貼另外一塊 這個位置又代表什麼呢?

  • So I've got one here, what does that mean?

    眼角的痣就是「熱情」,或甚至是「殺意」

  • So if you had a patch near your mouth the accounts that I've seen suggest that it meant sort of

    所以是頗具威脅性的痣

  • coquettishness or kissing, something quite cheeky basically

    所以她是個蛇蠍女郎!

  • And I'm gonna put one here, what does that mean?

    但它們又可以附帶政治意思

  • So near the eye could mean passion or could even mean killing, so quite a

    1711年發行的「Spectator」日刊就發表過

  • dangerous little number that one

    支持左派/自由派的女人會在臉的右邊貼痣

  • She's a dangerous lady!

    相反地右派/建制派會在貼在左邊臉

  • But they could also have political meanings as well

    那麼臉部的化妝就完成了

  • There was a report in The Spectator in 1711 that said women of a Whig

    但如果沒有適當的髮型配合 就不配為喬治時代的女人

  • persuasion would wear patches on the right hand side where as Tories would

    而這將會是頗為浩大而費時的工程

  • wear them on the left.

    好吧當妳理髮的同時

  • And that's everything that we're going to do on the face,

    我就去探索更多肯伍德府的事蹟

  • but a Georgian lady is nothing without her hair and that is a big

    我們現在身處的是非常莊嚴的音樂房 而肯伍德府整體建築就非常華麗

  • affair, it's going to take me some time

    妳可以解說一下它的歷史嗎?

  • Ok well while you do that I'm going to

    好的,這莊園最初建於17世紀初

  • go and find out more about Kenwood

    但現在我們所見的大宅卻是體現

  • We're in this majestic Music Room and the whole of Kenwood is so beautiful

    1754年以4千英鎊買下這裡的威廉·穆雷的品味

  • can you tell me a bit about the history?

    4千英鎊就算考慮到通脹都算是撿了便宜貨呢!

  • Yes the first house is built here in the

    這價錢的確挺物超所值

  • early 17th century but the house we see today largely reflects the taste of

    但注意當期時這裡須要進行大修葺和翻新

  • William Murray who purchased Kenwood for £4,000 in 1754

    所以穆雷僱用了蘇格蘭籍新古典主義建築師Robert Adam

  • £4,000, pounds that sounds like a bargain to me!

    和他的兄弟James來修葺肯伍德

  • It was a reasonable amount

    所以這裡就被改造成今天所見的新古典主義大宅

  • but you had to make a lot of changes to the property so he employed the Scottish

    對極,而在1790年代他又建了新翼

  • neoclassical architect Robert Adam and his brother James to completely

    而我們現在身處的房間就是屬於新翼範圍

  • transform Kenwood

    那麼18世紀末莊園外是個怎樣的世界呢?

  • And so that turned it into the sort of neoclassical mansion that we know it as today?

    對一些人民來說多得大規模生產那是個前程似錦的年代

  • It did, and in the 1790s wings were added to the

    但隨著工業化而來的是急速人口膨脹

  • building so the room that we stand in now is actually one in one of those wings

    城市變得擁擠和衛生環境越來越惡劣

  • And so what was happening outside these walls in the late 18th century?

    但就是依賴人口支持了戲劇業、花園和零售業的發展

  • For some people it was a period of great prosperity with the boom in

    這裡的前主人威廉·穆雷是個大法官

  • manufacturing but with this increase in industry and also with the rise in

    而他那時候作出過些很重要的司法裁決呢

  • population cities could become very overcrowded and unsanitary. But there

    可以訴說一下他的故事嗎?

  • were also places a great spectacle, so it was great period for the

    那時候他是英格蘭中最有力的首席大法官

  • theatre, for pleasure gardens and also for shopping

    在1772年他負責過一單為後世人樂道的重要案件

  • William Murray, he was a judge and he made quite an important ruling when he was Lord Chief Justice

    那就是James Somerset的訴訟案 原訴人Somerset是非洲裔的奴隸

  • Can you tell me about that?

    他遭到他的奴隸主囚禁 並將要販賣到牙買加成為農地勞工

  • He was the most powerful judge in England as Lord Chief Justice

    但穆雷裁定奴隸主不能隨意將奴隸送出英格蘭

  • and in 1772 he had a particularly significant case and that

    他甚至在判詞中形容奴隸制度是可惡的(odious)

  • was the case of James Somerset. Somerset was a former slave who had been

    所以那是漫長的解放奴隸過程中的一小步

  • imprisoned by his once master and he was about to be sent to Jamaica in order

    威廉·穆雷在這裡與他的兩位侄女同住呢

  • to be sold. But Murray ruled that no slaver could forcibly send a slave out

    而其中一人是帶有非洲裔血統的Dido Elizabeth Belle 我很想聽聽更多關於她的故事

  • of England and in his summing up he described slavery as 'odious' so that was

    Dido在1766年來到肯伍德安居

  • just very much one small step in a much longer journey towards the abolition of slavery

    她是海軍少將John Lindsay 與一位非洲女性Maria belle的私生女

  • William Murray lived here with two nieces as well didn't he

    雖然我們無法查證母親是否位奴隸 但這個可能性相當高

  • One of which, Dido Elizabeth Belle, I'm really keen to hear more about

    父親Lindsay是穆雷的外甥 他作為皇家海軍一員長期駐守加勒比海

  • Dido came to live here at Kenwood in about 1766 and she was the illegitimate daughter of

    而Dido作為一名私生女和混血兒

  • John Lindsay and an African woman, Maria Belle, who was possibly a slave

    在18世紀英格蘭社會當然會遇上許多挑戰

  • although we don't have the evidence to necessarily prove that, but Lindsay, who

    但我們知道她被帶到這肯伍德 當作為一位淑女來培育

  • was Lord Mansfield's nephew, had been stationed in the Caribbean and was

    她和她的表姐Elizabeth Murray非常要好 她獲得文學教育和演奏音樂

  • an officer of the Royal Navy. Now Dido as both illegitimate and also

    她又會觀察乳牛作業 那時當時的貴族淑女流行的消閒活動

  • mixed-race would have faced many challenges in 18th century English

    這間房展示了許多那個年代的女性肖像呢

  • society. But we do know that she was brought up here at Kenwood as a lady. She

    我想知道這些精緻畫作背後的故事

  • was a companion to her cousin; she was taught to read, write and play music and

    這些畫作原本是Edward Guinness的收藏品的一部分 他在1925年買下了這大宅

  • she also supervised the dairy which was a popular pastime for ladies in that period

    在他1927年去世後他將這大宅 和所有藝術收藏都捐獻給國家

  • Now this room is filled with many examples of other other women from this

    而這畫作中的女士特別面善呢

  • period. Tell me about the exquisite works of art that we're seeing here

    可以告訴我那背後的故事嗎?

  • These paintings are part of an outstanding collection that was formed by Edward

    好的,那是Caroline Alicia Fleming 她在1776年下嫁John Brisco

  • Cecil Guinness, 1st Earl of Iveagh, and then was given to the nation along with the

    那年正是她給托馬斯·庚斯博羅 (Thomas Gainsborough)繪畫這肖像

  • house after his death in 1927

    她的丈夫後來繼承了「從男爵」稱號

  • And this woman here in particular is very familar

    所以今天我們稱呼她Brisco夫人

  • Could you tell me a bit more about this painting?

    我很喜歡這裡大部分的畫像都很浪漫和詼諧

  • Yes so this is Caroline Alicia Fleming who in 1776 married John Brisco and that's actually

    這裡畫像中的主角穿著的服飾都很迷人

  • the same date we believe as when she posed this portrait by Thomas

    可以解說一下嗎?

  • Gainsborough. Her husband was later made a baronet

    18世紀的貴族女性都流行 將自己扮演成歷史、小說、戲劇或神話人物

  • so we know her today as Lady Brisco

    因為那個時代記錄歷史被視為最重要的一個作畫題材 比照搬模特兒的形象作畫更重要

  • I love the fact that so many of the

    所以為了讓肖像畫和畫家自己的名聲昇華 畫家就在作品中融入歷史和神話元素

  • pictures here, the paintings they're quite romantic,

    不過我可以想像將一位18世紀淑女

  • they're quite whimsical. There's an element of sort of costume and fancy

    描畫成一位希臘女神或莎翁戲劇女主角的舉動 是非常之諂媚的行為

  • dress to many of them can you tell me about what we're seeing?

    說到歷史我們可以看到這裡有一副肖像畫的 主角打扮成埃及妖后克婁巴特拉七世呢

  • So there was very much a trend to depict 18th century ladies as characters from

    對,這位模特兒是18世紀的名妓Kitty Fisher

  • history, from literature and myths and that was the cause history paintings were

    畫家約書亞·雷諾茲(Joshua Reynolds)選擇以埃及妖后 為主題就是想暗示Fisher具有妖后的妖艷氣質

  • seen as the most important type of paintings in this period, much more

    所以我們看到這個時代的藝術的興旺

  • important than portraiture. So the artists were very much trying to elevate

    絕對是,對肖像畫、戲劇和時裝而言都是

  • the status of portraiture and their own status as artists. But I can imagine it

    我也是很鍾愛這時代的女性和男性的服裝呢

  • would have been very flattering as an 18th century lady to be portrayed as a

    我很熱心於開墾這時代男性服飾潮流 那輪廓太美了

  • Greek goddess or a Shakespearean heroine as well

    說到時裝 妳這裡有些收藏可以展示吧?

  • And speaking of history we've got someone dressed as Cleopatra here right

    我有啊,這裡收藏了許多喬治時代的鞋扣 想好好觀摩一下嗎?

  • Yes so this is Kitty Fisher, the famous 18th century courtesan. But Joshua Reynolds the

    我很想看啊!

  • painter has chosen to show her as Cleopatra and it's very much an allusion

    肯伍德這裡非常有幸能展示這麼多精緻難得一見的鞋扣

  • to Kitty's own seductive charms

    啊!它們都很漂亮呢!妳這裡的收藏量是多少?

  • And so we're seeing a real flourishing of the arts in this period aren't we

    這個呢,超過1千款,但不是全部都被展出

  • Absolutely, both in terms of portraiture and also

    我認為鞋扣很值得探究 因為那個時代不論男女都會佩戴鞋扣

  • theater and of course fashion.

    又由於鞋扣可以自由替換而不是固定在一隻鞋 它們的功能更像是一款珠寶飾物,如胸針般

  • I love the fashions from this era for both

    它們簡直就是珠寶啊

  • women and men. I'm particularly keen on cultivating a

    那尺寸,還有那精緻的設計

  • sort of menswear silhouette from this era, it's definitely one of my favourites

    對,所以再細心看看

  • Now speaking of fashion, you've got something to show me, haven't you?

    它們許多都用上貴金屬製作 例如這個是銀製的

  • I do. So we've got a large collection of Georgian shoe buckles. Would you like to come and take a closer look?

    又或者是塗上漿糊後貼上箔片和玻璃 這樣就會產生這閃閃發光的反射效果

  • I would love to!

    這反光真的很迷人! 可以想像在陽光或燭光下的閃耀效果

  • We're really lucky to have an amazing, quite unusual collection of shoe buckles on display here at Kenwood

    有些人會猜這些鞋扣只會在派對或重要場合才佩戴

  • They're so fantastic! How many do you have in the collection?

    但其實這些是日常正裝的固定配件

  • Well, more than a thousand although they're not all on display. But I think they're really

    對一部分社交圈而言啦

  • interesting because shoe buckles were worn by those men and women and because

    肯伍德也收藏了些珠寶呢

  • they could be removed from the shoe they were very much treated like a piece of

    如項鍊、耳飾、扇子、鈕扣、袖扣和馬褲

  • jewelry, like a brooch for instance

    啊!袖扣和馬褲,太興奮了!

  • I mean they do look like jewelry don't they

    妳這裡有全套喬治時代的飾物呢

  • the size of them and everything, they're exquisite

    對極

  • Yes, so let's take a closer look

    很多謝妳的導覽 我要回去看看Rebecca的進度

  • So they were often made out of precious metals so for instance this

    變身作戰進行得如何呢?

  • is made out of silver, or they could also be encrusted with paste so cut

    不錯。Ashleigh在上層給髮型進行最後的修飾

  • glass which was backed with metallic foil giving this wonderful glittering effect

    現在就向妳介紹Stuart,我們的喬治時代紳士

  • It's so sparkly! You can just imagine that in the sunlight or in candlelight, it would

    Stuart,你看來真美

  • just be so shiny

    多謝,這感覺不錯

  • Yeah and you would think that these were just worn to

    解說一下妳做過些什麼

  • parties and that kind of thing but they were actually part of the everyday

    那個時代男士和女士的化妝其實非常類似

  • wear, well for certain sections of society anyway. We also have a collection of

    所以我就用差不多的材料 都是一樣的白色膚色底

  • jewelry here at Kenwood so everything from necklaces and earrings, through to

    還有這腮紅但就稍微淡一點

  • fans and buttons and buckles for breeches

    還有那個時代的男士想與女士在妝容上有些區別

  • Ah! Buckles for breeches, fantastic!

    所以塗嘴唇的形狀就比較高和窄

  • You've got a whole array of Georgian accessories right here

    太精彩了

  • Absolutely

    男士化妝在早些年代還是很流行 但自從喬治時代起這潮流就逐漸式微

  • Well thank you so much I'm going to go and see how Rebecca

    但依然有一群男士很熱衷於 在日常生活打扮得非常大膽時髦

  • is getting on with our gorgeous Georgians

    他們被戲稱為「通心粉」(Macaroni)

  • How's the transformation going?

    而這個稱號也變得不分階層 只要對時尚觸覺比較敏感的男士都會被這樣標籤

  • It is going excellently. Ashleigh is upstairs having the finishing touches

    而貴族通心粉紳士通常會到外地旅遊

  • put on her hair, so I thought I'd introduce you to Stuart, our Georgian gentleman

    他們受到如法國和意大利的時尚氣氛感染

  • Stuart, you look fantastic

    而穿著非常鮮豔和撐得很高的假髮

  • Thank you, it feels good too

    總是一副孔雀開屏的艷麗

  • Tell me what you've done here

    那就談談假髮吧 喬治時代男士幾乎每天都會戴假髮

  • So at the time men and women's makeup was actually quite similar, so I've used very

    因此大部分男士都會將原本的頭髮剃掉 到像Stuart這個程度以方便佩戴假髮

  • similar products. We've still got the white base, we've also still got the rosy

    那麼就給這位紳士帶上假髮吧

  • cheeks though less intense and there were also men at that time who wanted to

    製造這個假髮須要什麼原料呢?

  • push the boundaries of fashion so to represent that I've gone for a more

    這種假髮的原料都挺廣泛的例如馬毛 有些還會用真人的頭髮

  • intense, more shaped lip

    而最貴的假髮顏色是白色 所以有些假髮會噴上粉末以模仿那高價的白髮

  • It just looks brilliant. Cosmetics for men had been

    假髮的售價可以非常高昂

  • popular since much earlier and was kind of starting to die out a little bit by

    在肯伍德的資料告訴我們那時代的男士可以為了假髮

  • this point but there were these groups of men who were really invested in

    每8年付出相等當於今天五千英鎊的代價

  • having a very fashionable life. They were known as the Macaronis. The term Macaroni

    這真的是非常昂貴呢

  • started to be used for any man at any sort of level of society who showed an

    的確是超貴但這也反映了假髮 對喬治時代男士的形象是何等重要

  • interest in fashion. The aristocratic Macaronis were often men who had taken

    Stuart的化妝已經完成了

  • the Grand Tour, they were very influenced by the fashions of places

    我們就讓他更衣 和確保Ashleigh的打扮到位

  • like France and Italy, wore bright colors towering wigs, just looked really

    我急不及待了!

  • flamboyant and fantastic

    我覺得他們太美了! Amber,妳有什麼感想?

  • Let's talk about wigs. Georgian men would wear wigs

    很精緻呢!

  • almost every day and because of that it meant that most men would shave their

    妳站在這Robert Adam設計的新古典派藏書館中 簡直是天造地合的畫面

  • heads quite close as Stuart has today to make wearing wigs a lot easier

    這髮型!妳是怎樣辦到的?

  • So let's get this gentleman on

    這有點像喬治時代的傑作吧? 對!

  • What would wigss like this have been made from?

    喬治時代女士會戴假髮

  • Wigs could be made from a

    或者將原來的頭髮往後梳用髮夾紮起 或用襯托物增加高度和體積

  • variety of different things you could make them from horse hair, some of them

    然後他們會用兩樣髮型產品

  • will be made from human hair. The most expensive hair was white hair and that's

    第一樣是「Pomatum」,類似今天的髮蠟

  • one of the reasons why wigs ended up being powdered to imitate that expensive

    但原料主要是動物脂肪和精華油 將之均勻地梳到髪上

  • white hair

    第二樣是粉末 為了達到這效果要用上是非常多粉末

  • Now wigs could be really costly and here

    我們這裡用了玉米粉 但有那時候還會用鳶尾(orris)根混合澱粉

  • at Kenwood the accounts show us that they spent the equivalent, the modern

    那麼妳用的粉末所製造的灰色色調 是這個時代非常標誌的顏色

  • equivalent, of £5,000 on wigs over a period of about eight years

    但那時候也有用上其他顏色吧?

  • That is a lot of money

    是,我們從肖像畫中看到有些女士會用粉紅色粉末

  • It is a lot of money but it just shows how important a wig was to

    也有淡藍和淡綠,選擇很豐富

  • the final Georgian look

    妳自己的髮色也很配合喬治時代呢!

  • Stuart's makeup is finished we just need to get him

    多謝

  • dressed and make sure that Ashleigh is looking amazing

    而且佩戴的飾物也很講究呢 這裡就插了一根很時髦的鴕鳥羽毛

  • I can not wait to see this!

    髮型可以用來抒發藝術甚至是政治的主見

  • Well I think they look amazing! Amber, what do you reckon?

    甚至有法國女士的圖像是在頭髮上 戴著一艘模型船以慶祝法國海軍打敗英國

  • Just exquisite!

    這太棒了,你們感覺如何?

  • You look totally perfect in this neoclassical Robert Adam Library

    是,這感覺很美,這身裝扮讓心境都變得優雅

  • This hair! How did you create it?

    妳看來真優雅!

  • It is a bit of a Georgian masterpiece, isn't it? It is!

    多謝

  • In Georgian times women would wear wigs or they could use their own hair and

    你也很優雅啊,你有什麼感想?

  • brush it back into hair pieces or padding or switches to create this

    多謝

  • height and this volume. Then they would also use two other key products

    為了準備這身打扮耗費的時間 是我平時的兩倍,因為這裡有非常多的鈕扣要扣上

  • one of them is called pomatum which is kind of like a hair cream it's

    這絕對是值得的

  • made out of animal fats and essential oils which gets combed through the hair

    我絕對喜歡這教學,從假髮到有毒物質

  • and then you need powder and lots of it. To get this incredible effect we've used

    我們再一次看到時尚潮流和化妝 可以如何訴說英格蘭的過去

  • corn starch powder but they also used orris root and wheat starch powder at that time

    別忘記你都可以參觀這華麗的大宅和裡面的藝術收藏

  • Now the powder that you've used has given this quintessential gray

    讓自己置身於英國喬治王時代

  • look that we associate with this era, but other colours were used as well weren't they

    請點肯伍德網頁連接查閱更多的資訊

  • Yes, we've got portraits where women are wearing pink powder in their hair

    你認為你或朋友適合喬治時代打扮嗎?

  • there's some light blues there's some pale greens, all the colours!

    我們很有興趣知道你的想法所以請在留言區發表意見

  • Your hair is very on-trend for the Georgian era!

    今集到此為止,我是Amber Butchart 多謝觀看

  • Thank you very much

  • And it's also about

  • the accessorising as well. We've got this very fashionable ostrich feather

  • Hair could be a real area for artistic and political expression. There are even

  • images of French women wearing ships in their hair to commemorate naval

  • victories against the British, it's just amazing. How do you guys feel?

  • Yeah, it feels amazing and it makes you feel quite elegant

  • You look quite elegant!

  • Thank you

  • Well you look very elegant as well, how do you feel?

  • Thank you, well it took

  • me twice as long as normal to get ready. There's a lot of buttons to be done up

  • Well it's definitely worth it

  • I have absolutely loved this tutorial. From big wigs to poisonous pastes once

  • again we've seen how fashion and makeup can tell us the story of England's past

  • Don't forget you can visit this beautiful house and its exquisite art

  • collection and experience Georgian Britain for yourself. Just click the link

  • on the screen to find out more. Do you think you would suit the Georgian look

  • with someone that you know? As ever we'd love to hear your thoughts in the

  • comments below. Until next time, I'm Amber Butchart and thanks for joining me here at

  • Kenwood

Hi, I'm Fashion Historian Amber Butchart and welcome to Kenwood which is cared

嗨,我是時尚歷史學家Amber Butchart

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