people always ask me why we came from Hawaii

To live and surf in Portugal

and I have to laugh

because there's so many reasons

just to be able to live

this close to the beach

and really not just any beach, Baleal has great surf most of the time

it's just special

being able to walk across the street

get in the water, get some waves

from our house to the cliff

where you can see

I don't know, 1000 different breaks it's about a two minute walk

and at most of those breaks, there's absolutely nobody surfing

we definitely have some lineups in Baleal Lagido usually has a pretty good crowd

and a pretty high level, some guys rip over here

But if you look just up the beach

walk 5 minutes up the cliff

you can usually get pretty good waves with nobody out

coming from the Hawaii that's a pretty special thing for us 'cuz a lot of people in Hawaii surf

Surfing by yourself is just different

When you're in the lineup with a lot of other guys, it get's pretty competitive, you don't want to make mistakes

But when you're out by yourself or just with the boys

You can go for it, try things you've never tried before

it doesn't matter. You know nobody is watching so...

it sounds funny to say, but I think my surfing has probably improved more

in one year of surfing everyday in Portugal

than about 12 years

surfing maybe 3 or 4 days a week in Hawaii.

Man, I love those mornings when you walk down on the cliff

It's head high, off shore, super glassy

just see sets marching in

Normally a pretty good sized line-up at Lagide, Look straight out at the home break

and it's perfect

and NOBODY'S out

You just get the biggest smile and think, "Yep, I'm gonna go out there and..."

Surf perfect waves by myself

it's a pretty awesome feeling

and I would have to say that's my favorite thing about living in Baleal.