So a new case here from Fractal Design and I was gonna do, like this whole thing and I decided, You know what?

Since I have to build it, I will take you guys along for the ride on some of the loop planning and all that sort of stuff, cause I've got some feedback lately of the montage is air cooling all but people kind of missed the old days.

We used to just sort of talk about every little thing that we're going through.

And I figured maybe we'll do that today.

It's kind of like two birds with one stone reporting the work that counts as the work rule the games from the Seven Kingdoms with your Iron club mouse from your Iron throne.

It has a scroll wheel that looks like an off road tire and buttons on the side and top to do stuff.

Don't lose grip while doing stuff with the textured sides and do it in style with the RG.

One more course here dot com the components in this builder kind of secondary to just the point of doing the build.

I guess building in a case is obviously one of the best ways to get familiar with it.

Now, the chassis on this is going to seem very, very familiar.

This is very derivative of like B s to obviously it's yes to vision, which means I have typical eyesight panels will talk about all that once it's done, because that was kind of the plan originally was having done and show it all beautified.

And now I decided just to show you the process.

So the components, like I said, our secondary.

But because I know you're gonna ask for a safe, you have a nice 7 97 100 k eight core non hyper threading CPU.

So not a high power part, not a super high heat part.

So we're definitely good there.

Ikea water block on that.

That is the velocity block we have on the motherboard.

It's an M s.

I m e g z 3 90 ace, not the God like it's a still has the lead panel and stuff right there for memory and put it in there Yet, though we have 32 gigabytes of the hyper X predator DDR four are to be memory graphics card.

We have a nemesis.

I G force our T x 28 e t I.

Seahawk.

This is the one that has e k r Block already installed.

So that's kind of nice not to worry about that.

It's got to eight pin power plugs plus a six pin.

Now, the nice thing about the S two vision here is the fact that it comes with all four of these 140 millimeter um, Prisma fans.

These are RGB there.

Hi.

Static pressure.

But they're also good for case flow, so you can use it when things like radiators or your case.

Obviously, typically, case manufacturer's only include one, maybe two fans, one in take one exhaust.

But as you can see here, you get four of these and these are digital RGB, so these can hook up to things like mystic light.

Which is why we're using M.

S.

I for this build and you'll be able to control them and obviously control your theme.

So with that, let's go ahead and build it and talk about the Lupin stuff cause aloof.

I'm really sort of doing like a water cooling bill ish review with this.

It's kind of see what we can come up with here when I'm doing my builds with water cooling, I usually try and figure out the reservoir placement first.

Um, the thing with reservoirs is there's lots of different options.

You've got your combo units.

You've got your individual components.

Unfortunately, I had requested that we get a combo unit and I was sent to individual components, so I'm gonna see if this works out.

If not, I've got a few other options.

I mean, I've still got this guy from we did.

They are six golden white build, which is the photons from excess PC.

Still one of my favorite reservoirs glass, Which makes it kind of nice, but also kind of scary to handle it times.

So we'll see.

I'm not a fan of that one, though, because it's around, pump all the fittings come off at weird angles rather than nice and square.

So I like to get the reservoir and pump sort of figured out first.

The nice thing about Thea he s division.

Here is the fact that it doesn't, of course, come with the back wall here which has all these slots so that you can mount things like reservoirs and pumps.

I'm just using a fitting in between these two, it's a double rotary.

Ah, double Rotary 90.

So I can re center it because the problem is, if you look at the bottom, this reservoir does not have a centered hole, so I couldn't center it on there.

So we're just gonna have to see.

I mean, that's kind of the name of the game here is toe play around and see how it goes.

I don't know, Uh, just because a problem here what kind of straighten us out Phil is It's not straight because that fitting does not push the pump over enough to, like, make it perfectly centered.

But the whole on the reservoir MT.

Is centered.

The pump is also centered because of the slots that we're gonna mounting it, too, because it comes with its own little brackets.

So you could see his cricket because of that, because it's not centered on left and right between where these mounts.

So either got to see if I can't come up with another fitting option for that, or I'll be ditching this Ikea system altogether for a different brand entirely.

That's what I'm talking about.

But this.

This crap is round.

And so you got one coming off that way.

We're going that way.

One going that way.

One going that way.

It just looks stupid.

It's dumb.

That's literally the only word I could think of.

The people who designed these round reservoirs with fittings coming off the way they do are dumb.

So you think that's going to be my Florida room?

Had to take the right out now and flip it back over.

Maybe you mind bleeding and it was Open the drawer.

How good's that?

Okay, so every time I do any sort of hard to video, you guys see this fitting and anyone ask you what is this fitting?

So this is actually from Primo Chill.

And it's not even, like, specifically fitting.

They make, I think, is just one they resell.

But look at the look of this.

This is This is all jacked up, right?

So it's literally and it works with 12 mil and 13 mil.

Put it in.

It's worth like 20 bucks or 15 bucks a river.

It costs honestly, and then you can actually use it to shorten it to two for millimeters at a time I get no kick back on that, by the way.

So I cut this tube to short, like two different times.

Unlike men, cut another tube.

And I'm like men that I forgot that it does slide up top so we could have just slated to where it needs to go.

So one of things I'd like to do when I'm doing custom loops like this a sort of test fit everything.

So, as you can see, this is not a complete bill.

There's no ram.

There's no collars on any of these compression fittings.

But this is the order that we chose.

And obviously I use 90 degree angles fittings for this one because already had him, too.

I want to use them again.

They look they kind of add something to this.

I guess I started to bend the 12 millimeter tubing, though, just to see how it would look.

And 12 millimeter tubing with only two millimeter wall versus three does kind of kink a lot easier.

And I wasn't a fan of the way that was turning out, so I just decided to use the elbows anyway, and they stay in their spot pretty good I also use these when I'm doing glass tubing, so it's kind of the same effect, but this is Petey G.

So we're coming out of the reservoir and pump combo going up and over into the radiator through the red back down into the CPU in.

So right here is where I have it coming into the graphics card.

It's not explicitly labeled as in and out like you would find on the CPU block, but it's very similar design.

You can see you've got this sort of a jet plate.

Here it goes through it splits, goes to different directions, it meets again.

Back here doesn't cover here, so you can't see.

But I like to come in and down through here instead of having it split this way.

Merge and come back up because what I found is where it splits.

Over here, when you're in a vertical amount like this, you can get air sort of trapped, and it could kind of be a pain in the ass to get it all out.

So I found that when you flow this way, it sort of pushes the air back up because they're naturally wants to riot site so anywhere that fluids going down the air is gonna fight it and get trapped at the top.

So when it goes like this, I found it naturally, just sort of pushes the air out and, of course, comes out of their back into the reservoir.

So all of this is just sort of loosely mounted.

I mean, this isn't tightened down.

The razor card.

Um CP Block is mounted, obviously with thermal paste and stuff that this could still sort of moved.

So I do now is I'm gonna take all of this out, take a picture of it too.

So I know where all the tubes go because kind of sucks trying to relight it all up later.

But now that the loop is done, I can go ahead and build the system, and then we can fill it and do all that stuff.

What do you say we let Phil do his montage of filling for the RGB?

What we do is we took basically our own.

We made our own splitters four way five way splitters and just plug everything into.

Like I said, the 12 volts have their own splitter because there are some 12 volt stuff on here.

And then we've got all the Prisma fans plugged into the digital addressable on the motherboard, which works seamlessly with, like, mystic light or ah, and all that stuff.

So this is what the back end looks like.

Nice giant cut out to be o get to your back plate for whether being air cooler or a water block like we have here and then right here.

And I've got these brackets which we're not using because we don't need them, for you can mount additional 3.5 inch hard drives or 2.5 inch drives and three more of them like that.

I just take them off when we're not using them.

Kind of probably a bad practice, since if you need them later, you might lose them.

But we are only using this single SST right here, which is mounted to SSD trays On the back of these could also amount to the front if you want, and since it is RGB, you could do that.

It would be nice and pretty and show off in your system.

But since we're using the vertical mt, I chose not to do that and just put it right here on the back.

No, start at the top because this chassis does come with a solid glass panel on the top that you have to remove and basically discard entirely if you want air flow on the top of the chassis.

So rather than having any sort of air gap or having it rise or come up with some sort of a solution that doesn't require you to lose the glass panel together, you replace it with this very basic filtered grill for the top, which is the same as what you find, like there are six or the finest, too.

So that's a little bit disappointing, because it's kind of like you've got this premium glass all the way around the chassis and then this very kind of a cheap looking plastic frame for the top, which then, in my opinion, detracts from the elegance that this chassis is supposed to be.

But in terms of airflow, plenty of air flow, no issues whatsoever when it comes to cooling the graphics card or the CPU when you go with the radiator on the top, or even if you put one in the front.

There's plenty of air flow, and it just kind of keeps with the standard tradition of fractal design, keeping it close to the chest with the very familiar rectangular bucks.

But they're now.

I think what happened is they realize a lot of us were taking additional glass panels from other cases and putting them on both sides because they are interchangeable.

You could put the back panel in the front and vice versa.

They are 100% mirrored.

You could flip it upside down, and it works on both sides.

People were doing that.

It's sort of Ahmad, and I think fractal kind of took it.

Ran with it, um, and then out of the glass, to the front and to the top.

Unfortunately, like I said, you lose the top if you aren't using only the rear exhaust man, which then, in my opinion, is not enough, because if you're running high end hardware with the amount of heat that's gonna be generated in the chassis, even if you're running a Rh colors 1 140 millimeter fan, that's a lot of heat to have to exhaust, so you don't have to run it at a higher rpm to kind of match the amount of fans pushing air in, which then means that you're gonna be dealing with a ton of positive pressure air coming out of all the cracks and then only one fan having the responsibility of exhausting the heat, which I think is substandard.

But that's that's my opinion.

What's your guy's opinion on this?

Hopefully, you guys like the way the bill turned out.

This is just an example of how you could water cooler chassis like this, and you can see there's plenty of room to do it.

We could have added another rat if we wanted in the front.

With that removable plate in the front, you could go all the way up to 80 millimeter radiator with fans and still have plenty of room for a long card.

Like you can see, this is a pretty long card.

This Seahawk is, for all intensive purposes, a water cooled trio, which is one of the biggest cards they make, with the exception of the godlike card or the lightning card.

And so yeah, you could say, is plenty of room in this, considering the fact this is still, technically, a mid tower.

It's pretty impressive what you can fit in here.

So that's where you guys sound off in the comments below about this chassis.

How do you feel about it?

What would you change?

Um, I forgot to mention it does also include an led strip, which is kind of nice, because chassis they're not including any sort of lighting in them.