But I promise you that I would We're gonna do a little bit of a build guide in terms of picking parts.

I'm gonna give us that budget.

We're gonna kind of go through here and talk about picking the parts and had to make sure things are compatible.

Onda sort of give you a little bit of a guide at a price point, but more importantly, everyone talks about how to build the tower.

But realistically, with the most common question that we get on this channel isn't about building the tower.

It's about picking the parts.

So today we're bringing you Jay's PC part picking 101 That's the first class in college courses.

Let's go to community college then it's whatever they call it.

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All right, So the way I'm gonna do this here is I'm gonna use new egg to kind of build my cart.

It's kind of messed up, I guess.

But new egg has pretty much every part in the industry there.

And then what I'll do is I'll take that part's list and I will kind of shop it against other retailers and detailers to try and get the best prices.

Yes, I'm well aware the P C R picker does this but PC part picker also uses pretty much any e tailer kind of like anywhere, including some that I've never even heard of it.

I'm not comfortable buying from retailers that I've never heard of.

So this is the way I'm gonna do it.

If you want to use PC part picker to do the very same thing.

You certainly can.

I just tend to do manual price shopping because I like it better.

So we're gonna do is we're not going to talk so much about the parts were picking.

We're gonna talk about why we're picking the parts were picking, so this isn't necessary gonna be a cookie cutter parts list, although at the end of this video, we will show you the way we spent $1000 which is the price point that I've chosen for this first video of trying to bring you these ways to think about shopping.

It's designed to help you think about the way to choose these parts.

Not so much.

What we what we chose the most expensive single part you're gonna pretty much by is going to be well, especially if you're doing a gaming system is going to be your video card or your graphics card.

The way I tend to budget for this is I tend to have it be anywhere between 30 to 40% of the total cost of the system.

So if I'm building $1000 system, it means I've got between three and $400 suspend on a graphics card without having to make too many sacrifices somewhere else in the budget to then get everything to fit.

Because, remember, there's like seven main components that you have to get into your system.

You've got to get your CPU RAM, your motherboard, your graphics card, your storage, your power supply in your case.

So those air seven components technically, eight if you do it the way I do it, which is going to be an SST as well as a large capacity spinning hard drive.

So by sticking within that 30 to 40% budget ratio, it means that I'm not going to make too many sacrifices later on based on those seven or eight components I just mentioned.

So it makes it pretty easy, though with New Age you can just sort by your price, and it actually works out really well because on the left hand side right here, if we scroll down to our sorting, we can go right to 300 to $400.

So since we know that $1000 is a total budget, I'm shopping within that particular price point, and what I'd like to do is I tend to kind of price my my jeep you to be no more than 50% of the total budget of the system.

But usually it's gonna fall between more like 30 and 40% of the total cost of your system.

So it's gonna be the single most expensive part.

So the next most expensive thing you're probably gonna spend on your system is going to be your CPU on your motherboard combo.

Now the Pentium, where your shopping, you can find a lot of combo deals.

And I said, I basically recommend finding the CPI that you want to go with me based on what your tasks were gonna be.

An already know that within this $1000 price point, the best performance to price ratio eyes going to be with a MD aimed his rise in what you need to know, though, once you decide on which part you want to go with is you need your socket type to be compatible.

And it's kind of simple now with a MME.

De because all the mainstream stuff is AM four plus and because of the forward and backwards compatibility aimed he's promised till about 2022 I think it is.

It means anything am four plus is gonna be compatible with each other.

Another arson.

CAVEATS To that caveat Caveat there There are some exceptions to that.

You can take a newer generation rise and see if you compare it with an older generation rise in motherboard.

So although you can go backwards compatible like that and save some money, I tend to make sure I stick with a generation of CPU and motherboard that air matched, or at least go with a newer motherboard than the current CPU that I'm with if they are compatible with each other.

If you're not the kind of person that's looking at changing this in the next year or two and you're a five year builder, plus you aim for that five year mark of having the CPU or the PC last, then this is kind of irrelevant to you.

If you make sure you stick with the same generation CPU and motherboard, then it means that you're gonna guarantee that all the features of the CPU that you have hard there and unlocked and ready to go and the motherboards built to the capacity it needs to be built to support the particular CPU that you've put in there.

So for the motherboard, we actually chose the M aside, be for 50 Tomahawk max.

And we chose that for a couple of reasons.

One.

We've used it in the past, um, several times, actually.

And it's a very well designed, well built and very good value of a motherboard.

It doesn't have the highest chipset serious for the CPU that we selected.

That's because we also didn't go with the highest and CPU from the generation that we could have.

So it's a pretty well matched motherboard to seep you now.

The CPU we actually chose was the AM be risin 5 26 100 X.

It's a six court 12 thread CPU 4.2 gigahertz turbo clock.

It's more than enough horsepower to do live streaming gaming video rendering.

Just It's a really well rounded all around CPU, and we save some money because it's not the latest generation of CPU from Andy and because it's still available with current support and a really slashed price, it's really hard to be its performance to price ratio.

But that also means going with a super high end motherboard that has all these features designed for, like the 3700 X, which were not using, makes no sense it would be wasted money.

The before 50 Tomahawk max gives us four dim slots that we can expend our memory later on.

If we go the dual channel kit now, which means if we went with a cheaper motherboard, we wouldn't be able to do that unless we replace both sticks of Ram.

So for now, for this build, we're gonna go with two sticks of RAM and then the option.

Add more later.

So memories.

Pretty simple.

You're not getting gouged like you were two years ago.

There's no huge memory shortage around the world.

In is $200 for 16 gigabytes or $100 plus for a single eat gigabytes stick.

You can now get 16 gigabytes for well under 100 bucks.

In fact, we're looking right now.

All I did was searched DDR four when the 1st 1 that comes up right here is a $69 set of two times eight gigabyte dims of 3200 megahertz ram from G skill Rip jaws.

When it comes to shopping for Ram first Gen rise and definitely benefited from its fastest memories you could get.

That was because of the infinity fabric and the way that the chip let's all talk to each other.

That's kind of changed now with the 2000 Siri's, it was not nearly as important, but still somewhat impactful on performance in the 3000 Siri's.

We we're not really seeing much of an important performance benefit or hit by speeding up or slowing it down with Intel.

On the other hand, the faster the memory.

It really goes well with the high over clocks that you could get with intel.

See pews.

So I tend to find the sweet spot to be right around, to be honest, 3000 megahertz.

But if your budget can't afford it, 26 66 is gonna be just fine.

It's easy to overspend on memory by going, I want the fastest memory possible.

But again, unless you're using very memory intensive niche tasks that are going to need the superfast megahertz ratings of memory with very tight timings, I think in a blind taste test you'd have a hard time seeing 26 66 versus 4000 and just basic computing.

You're never gonna notice it.

So when it comes to memory, though, you obviously are gonna want to go with dual channel.

If you've got a dual channel motherboard or if you're running like an ex platform on either thread Ripper or Intel, then you're gonna want one stick per channel on those Air four channel system, so you would need four sticks to make sure there's at least one stick in each of those channels.

How do you know what you got?

Well, unless he paid an awful lot for your CPU, you don't have four channels, I promise.

Unless you bought a 39 50 X and then you only have dual channel.

And that's expensive, too.

So I guess the whole argument sweat all right, I guess.

A better way to say it.

It is.

It doesn't say thread Ripper or Intel extreme.

You don't need four sticks way.

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All right.

So based off the seven main components already said, we've got three left.

Basically, we've got power supply.

We've got case.

We've got storage.

So case is something I'm gonna shop for last because it's just the box.

It's a box that your parts go in.

It's an enclosure and reason why it's an enclosure.

People always wonder what j Why didn't you just Can you just put a computer on the desk?

Well, by having enclosure and having fans, I mean, do you control the environment, control the air flow?

It's just the box to give you some sort of an atmosphere to move air to keep things nice and cool.

The only time the case is gonna ever, ever affect your system.

Performance is if you have terrible air flow in your parts, start thermal throttling past that.

If it fits your motherboard and you go with the right size case that matches your A T X form factor.

So a TX full size a TX needed a TX case M A, t X and M 80 Exploring a TX You always put a smaller motherboard a bigger case, but not the other way around unless you're really good with a Dremel.

So I tend to choose the case last cause sometimes it's the piece that I also buy used.

If I have a very strict budget because it's the least impactful on your system, I don't want to spend a lot of money there because what you gain with a lot of money spent on cases aesthetics but aesthetics at the end of the day, having a beautiful case like let's say, my in 1928 But I've got a $500 budget build crammed into it.

What sense is that?

So it's really easy to imbalance your system by spending too much money on your case, which is why we're gonna go right to power supply, power supplies or one of those things that I think a lot of people tend to overcomplicate as long as they're 80 plus rated or higher, and you're not using some great box that came out of some case with a power supply included with it.

You're usually not gonna run into too much of a problem.

Mainstream systems that are not putting extreme loads on the power supply with running to over clock graphics cards and a 16 core 32 threads.

CPU that's over clocked in water cooled Your very rarely ever gonna notice that your power supply is under powered, which is why I tend to shop right around the 80 plus gold rating.

So what, that tells me is the components used in the power supply or better than average.

I've got better capacitors.

The rail design is going to be more improved, and that 80 plus rating is nothing more than an efficiency rating.

It tells you how efficient the power supply is to generate the power advertised based on the power it pulls from the wall.

What you might find those between gold and like titanium.

It's like two or 3% at the most.

In terms of efficiency levels, Gold has the most power supplies in its category.

A lot of people go right past bronze or right past silver from bronze to gold in terms of their power supply designs and then right past gold.

Two titanium now kind of surpassing platinum.

So gold is just with the best price of performance ratio is going to be so there's no reason t by a super expensive power supply.

You just need to make sure its size properly.

For your graphics card, which is the most single demanding power component in your system, it's gonna pull way more watts than your CPU under load.

If you're doing gaming, your CPU hardly ever goes under a full load.

Anyway, Your your graphics card, as long it's not being bottlenecked, will go immediately to its Max power draw to give you all a performance it can based on your settings in your overhead.

And so what I'm going to say is that with the 2060 which is what the CPU or the GP was that we actually chose for this build again, we'll do a full ration out the end calls for about a 500 watt power supplier like a foreigner.