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The first high heel ever was a piece of military footwear.
史上第一雙高跟鞋是雙軍用鞋。
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People in West Asia had been tremendous horse riders,
西亞的人曾是優秀的騎馬民族,
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and that's how they fought, they rode in the saddle and they stood up
同時也在馬上戰鬥,他們騎在馬鞍上然後起身
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to shoot their bows and that meant you need a heel to keep
射箭,這代表你需要鞋跟來
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you in the stirrups, nice and stable.
完好又穩定地固定在馬蹬上。
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The Shah of Persia, he's called Abbas the First,
名為阿巴斯一世的波斯國王
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he sends off some emissaries into Europe and they turn up
他派了一些使者進入歐洲,結果他們穿著
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wearing high heels and everyone goes...
高跟鞋出現了,於是所有人就...
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...so suddenly this military clothing becomes adopted in Europe.
突然間,這項軍用服飾就在歐洲出現了。
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But it's a little bit later on, in the early 1600s, that we start
但再過一陣子後,約十七世紀早期,
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to see heels coming in, and it starts with the blokes,
我們發現跟鞋開始在男性間流行了,
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it's for being manly and butch. But what happens quite quickly
主要用來彰顯男子氣概和強悍。但很快地,
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is women start to emulate male fashion, and part of that
女性便開始效仿男性的時尚,其中一樣便是
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is they start wearing men's shoes. The real big moment is when Louis XIV
她們開始穿男性的鞋子。真正的關鍵時刻是當法國的
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of France starts wearing heels, because he's quite a small man,
路易十四開始穿跟鞋,由於他是個嬌小的男人,
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and he famously has red heels - that Louboutin mirrored
且以他的紅色跟鞋聞名,那雙鞋後來被二十世紀的
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later on in the 20th Century.
魯布托設計師仿製。
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Suddenly everyone at the court is wearing heels.
突然間所有的宮廷人士都穿上跟鞋。
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Heels go through a bit of an up and down history
高跟鞋經歷一些起起伏伏的歷史,
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and the 1700s, philosophers are talking about the rationalism of men,
十八世紀時,哲學家們開始談論男性的理性主義,
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by contrast, women are said to be emotional and sentimental
相對地,女性被認為是情緒化和感性的,
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and can't be trusted to do important things like think.
且不能被信賴去做重要的事情,例如:思考。
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And so men are being advised to wear rational shoes
因此男性被建議穿上理性的鞋子,
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and high heels are not rational.
而高跟鞋是不理性的。
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The 1860s, this is when women's heels start to become sexy.
1860 年代,此時女人的跟鞋開始變得性感。
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We have photography, a brand new technology,
我們有這攝影這項全新的科技,
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and quite often in pornography of this period,
這段時期的色情書刊你會常看到
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you're seeing women still wearing their boots,
女人們穿著她們帶有跟的
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their shoes with the heels on, so it becomes erotic.
靴子、鞋子,這開始帶有情慾感。
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Hollywood had a huge influence on the rise of heels as the symbol
好萊塢對高跟鞋作為性感的象徵日漸流行有
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of sexiness. In the 1950s, Marilyn Monroe famously quoted,
重大影響。1950年代,瑪麗蓮夢露有個名言,
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I can't think of the exact words but she said you know...
我不記得她確切怎麼說的,但她說...
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“we owe the man who invented high heels so much...”
「我們對發明高跟鞋的男人很感激...」
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...she was speaking on behalf of women. For Monroe, who was about
她是代表女性發聲的。對夢露這個代表
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glamour and beauty and sexiness, she felt that that was an asset.
魅力、美麗和性感的人來說,她覺得這是種優勢。
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People can tell whether women are wearing high heels without actually
人們不用看到雙腳就能知道女人有沒有
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seeing their feet, so it is that posture, change in the gait.
穿高跟鞋,所以是她們的姿態改變了步伐。
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But a more recent study has shown that actually it's changing the shape
但近來的研究顯示吸引人的原因
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of the spine that is actually the attractive thing.
其實是脊椎形狀的改變。
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We looked at all the research on high heels and they are not healthy,
我們看了所有高跟鞋的研究,而它們無益於健康,
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there was increased risk of musculoskeletal conditions,
有提高肌肉骨骼疾病、
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bunions and pain.
拇囊炎和痛苦的風險。
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I think they're too iconic and too much a part of aesthetics and imagery
我認為它們太具代表性,佔據了美學、意象、
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and history and power and sex to ever go away,
歷史、權力和性的絕大部分,因此永遠不會消失,
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and I think they'll always be there.
我覺得高跟鞋會一直存在。
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I'd rather go through quite a lot of pain and wear them and look nice,
我寧願經歷許多痛苦也要美麗地穿著它,
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and suffer for it, I think.
我想我願意為此受苦。
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I'm crazy about fashion, I think we all are.
我癡迷於時尚,我想我們都是。
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And I think any smart woman would go on wearing them,
我想任何聰明的女人都會繼續穿著它,
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irrespective of what the consequences are.
不論後果為何。
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Thanks for watching. Don't forget to subscribe and click the bell to receive notifications for new videos.
謝謝收看。別忘了訂閱和點擊提示鈴來收到新影片的通知。
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See you again soon!
下次再見。