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In much of Western Europe and America, seasonings mean salt and pepper.
在西歐和美洲的大部分地區,調味料指的就是鹽和胡椒。
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They are so strong a pairing that we even use them to describe people --think of George Clooney and his trademark salt and pepper hair.
它們是如此契合的搭擋,我們甚至拿它們來形容人——例如演員喬治・克魯尼和他那標誌性黑白相間的頭髮。
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But where did they come from, and why do they form such a ubiquitous pairing?
但它們到底是從哪裡來的,且它們為什麼會成為這種隨處可見的組合呢?
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Salt is essential for life, and it's been used since prehistoric times, either scraped from saltwater deposits, harvested from salty lakes, or mined from underground.
鹽是生活中的必需品,且從史前時代就開始被使用,可以從鹹水沉積物中取出、從鹹水湖中採集,或從地下開採。
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It's one of the earliest food industries, and one of the most important commodities in the world.
是最早形成食品工業的物品,也是世界上最重要的商品之一。
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It makes food taste better, but it's also vital for preservation - whether of meat or vegetables.
它使食物的味道更好,對食物的保存也至關重要——不管是保存肉類還是蔬菜類。
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Methods for producing and controlling it were developed by all the classic civilisations, most notably the Romans, who left their mark on modern day language with their word for salt – sal.
鹽的生產和管控方法是由所有經典文明發展而來的,最主要的源自羅馬人,而現代語言中 salt 這個字也是源自於他們語言的 sal 所留下的痕跡。
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Roman soldiers received their salary – money to buy salt – and salads were vegetables and greens seasoned with salt.
羅馬士兵的工資是買鹽的錢,而沙拉則是各種用鹽所調味的蔬菜。
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In the medieval period salt was expensive, and frequently controlled by the state.
在中世紀時期,鹽的價格很高,並經常由國家所管控。
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Huge, ornate vessels for the table were made out of gold and silver, dominating dinner tables, and indicating very clearly who was of high status.
用金銀製成的巨大而華麗的餐桌器皿佔據了餐桌,被非常明確地表示了誰擁有了較高的地位。
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Sitting below the salt--i.e. not on the highest table--well, clearly you weren't exactly exalted.
坐在下席——即不坐在貴賓席上——代表了你的地位並沒有特別顯赫。
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Having salt on the table was as much for show as practicality.
桌子上放鹽,既是為了展示,也是為了實際用途而擺放。
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For dishes were seasoned in the kitchen, but adding salt to one's meat--with the tip of the knife--was common practice, and the uncertain noble could buy written advice on exactly how salt etiquette worked along with the even thornier question of how to carve.
雖然餐點是在廚房裡調味的,但是用刀尖在肉上灑鹽是個很常見的用法,而那些對於使用鹽的禮節不太清楚的貴族,可能會去買關於麻煩的用鹽禮節的書來閱讀。
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But how did pepper come to join it?
但是胡椒是如何加入這些的呢?
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It was one among a wide range of spices available to the medieval cook, and it was expensive--in the 1430s one pound of peppercorns cost as much as a pig.
它是各種中世紀料理中所使用的香料中的其中一種,且它很昂貴,在1430年代,一磅胡椒粉的價格相當於一頭豬。
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In the late 15th Century, the Portuguese took control of Malabar in east India, and started cultivating black pepper on a large scale.
在15世紀末,葡萄牙人控制了東印度的馬拉巴爾,並開始大規模種植黑胡椒。
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Prices fell, in line with over supply, and pepper became more readily available.
因為供給過剩而價格下跌,而胡椒也變得較為平易近人。
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By the 16th Century the phrase "peppercorn rent" was in use, to mean a nominal sum.
到了16世紀,衍伸的片語 peppercorn rent 開始出現,意思是「象徵性租金」。
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The real boost though, came with a change in culinary fashion to favour the French.
真正讓胡椒的地位來到另一個層次的,是為了迎合法國人而做出烹飪方式的改變。
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They loved black pepper, and their chefs were busy tidying and simplifying medieval cuisine, delineating more firmly sweet from savoury, and codifying which ingredients worked with which.
他們超喜歡黑胡椒,且廚師忙著整理和簡化中世紀的美食,更嚴格地將甜味和鹹味劃分開來,並記載下來適合的香料搭配。
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Salt was obviously savoury.
鹽很明顯是鹹的。
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Pepper tended that way, and so the fashionable French-style dishes of the next century used both, together, and with fewer and fewer other spices.
辣椒也是偏向鹹的那邊,所以下個世紀時尚的法式餐點便將兩者結合,而其他香料的使用則越來越少。
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By the Victorian age, salt and pepper were coming together as standard seasonings.
到了維多利亞時代,鹽與胡椒成為標準的調味料。
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However, other forms of pepper vied with black, and cayenne also appeared frequently in cookery books.
然而,其他形式的椒類開始與黑胡椒爭奪,而辣椒也是烹飪書籍中的常客。
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Salt was still on the table, now in small salt cellars, no longer just for the privileged few.
鹽仍是桌子常客——現在裝在小鹽窖裡,不再只是少數特權人士的專利。
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In 1911 the Morton Salt Company of Chicago patented an easy-flow salt and salt shakers could finally take off.
1911年,芝加哥的莫頓鹽業公司獲得專利的易倒鹽,而鹽罐終於開始出現在市面上。
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During the 20th Century, pepper shakers joined them.
在20世紀,胡椒罐也加入了他們的行列。
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Then, as package holidays introduced Brits to freshly ground pepper at the table, pepper mills replaced the shakers.
然後,隨著這個套裝為英國人帶來現磨胡椒的靈感後,現磨胡椒取代了普通罐裝胡椒。
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Phew.
呼!
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It's not a ubiquitous combination everywhere though--other cultures might still have the salt but replace the black pepper with chilli.
但這也不是全球通用的組合——其他文化中可能還是會有用鹽,但用辣椒將胡椒取代。
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And let us not forget the pickles, the sambals, the vinegars, the fish sauces and the salsas.
而且不要忘了醃菜,馬來叁巴醬,醋、魚露還有莎莎醬。
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Can I make room on my table and have them all?
我可以在我的桌子上騰出空間,一次擁有它們全部嗎?